I would think u would only get side loaded if the heims on the shock got maxed out.
Builds The LF40 Wheeler Build - Twin Turbo & 8 Speed Auto FJ40 (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter DangerNoodle
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- Thread starter
- #682
That's true, but it is also what was recommended to me by Ben @ Filthy Motorsports. I trust him completely when it comes to this. I doubt I'd ever be able to break these, but it is what was recommended to me by the guy who builds them for a living.
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
If you do a simple force diagram on the shock you will see that at an angle there has to be a force in both the x and y direction. This results in a bending stress on the shaft. Probably also causes more friction forces and heat as well.
Ya he probably knows a lot.
I would probably deduce that the increased angle results in an indirect translation of suspension movement to the travel of the dampers. This can be used to your advantage in some cases.
The larger diameter dampers might be more forgiving likely due to the additional authority allowed with more displacement. The larger diameter shafts are primarily to deal with additional axial loading from harsher climates and heavier damping coefficients. Basically more force from the piston. There is little bending moment on these components by design.
If you have a lot of angularity than your absorbers could potentially have a much longer travel per the travel of the suspension. Think of this as leverage. This means that the absorber potentially needs to work harder for the same damping coefficient.
There are other cases that go the opposite way and the suspension path and the piston travel all play into it.
If you look at the way a suspension may travel with an equal upward motion of both sides for instance it is much different than when one side compresses by its self. These are all things that the valving and rates are adjusted for. There are many other factors of course such as spring rate vehicle mass and moment of inertia to name a few.
I'm assuming engineers are basically taking a wild guess and the closer you can run to that guess the more like intended it will perform. That's why you are hearing these recommendations.
The best way to do it of course would be in an iterative method where there is testing and revisions made to your damping and rates. Most of these higher end supplier off these services to take a lot of the guessing out of the equation.
Don't beat yourself up over it too much, you're on the correct path here!
Mike
The larger diameter dampers might be more forgiving likely due to the additional authority allowed with more displacement. The larger diameter shafts are primarily to deal with additional axial loading from harsher climates and heavier damping coefficients. Basically more force from the piston. There is little bending moment on these components by design.
If you have a lot of angularity than your absorbers could potentially have a much longer travel per the travel of the suspension. Think of this as leverage. This means that the absorber potentially needs to work harder for the same damping coefficient.
There are other cases that go the opposite way and the suspension path and the piston travel all play into it.
If you look at the way a suspension may travel with an equal upward motion of both sides for instance it is much different than when one side compresses by its self. These are all things that the valving and rates are adjusted for. There are many other factors of course such as spring rate vehicle mass and moment of inertia to name a few.
I'm assuming engineers are basically taking a wild guess and the closer you can run to that guess the more like intended it will perform. That's why you are hearing these recommendations.
The best way to do it of course would be in an iterative method where there is testing and revisions made to your damping and rates. Most of these higher end supplier off these services to take a lot of the guessing out of the equation.
Don't beat yourself up over it too much, you're on the correct path here!
Mike
Some shocks you cannot mount much past vertical simple due to gravity's effect on the fluids within as well.
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
You're right with the joints there's nothing to create a moment. But there are downward and outward components to the force.
Ken
Last edited:
Yes if you use cartesian coordinates system there will be vectors that can across all 3 axes' depending on how you define it.
I'm assuming you are using gravity as the Y and length of vehicle as the X and the width of the vehicle as the Z by your description.
The damper/spring assembly will act only in one direction as long as we ignore the friction at the joints on each end.
I don't wanna fill up the thread with this aside but I hope that makes sense.
I can see how you could get a little confused and I don't want to offend anyone here,
Mike
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
Dude I said you were right.
Just trying to help.
Mike
Mike
- Thread starter
- #692
So uh, this followed my dad home last night....
Anyone need 80 parts?
@cbmontgo dropped by to look at the 80 and the project. It was nice to talk to ya, Carson.
I then started working on my shock hoop cross member.
First bend.
Installed.
I then got the reservoirs mounted up.
Looking like an engine bay.
I got the reverse switch plug made.
Anyone need 80 parts?
@cbmontgo dropped by to look at the 80 and the project. It was nice to talk to ya, Carson.
I then started working on my shock hoop cross member.
First bend.
Installed.
I then got the reservoirs mounted up.
Looking like an engine bay.
I got the reverse switch plug made.
- Thread starter
- #693
It was cold today. Luckily, with the heater, it's about 40° in the garage. Plenty warm to work.
Pretty cold on the peak this morning. Pretty though.
I started by making a mounting plate for my relay box.
Basic plate.
Studs welded on.
Mounted up.
Pretty cold on the peak this morning. Pretty though.
I started by making a mounting plate for my relay box.
Basic plate.
Studs welded on.
Mounted up.
- Thread starter
- #694
Buss bars for my overhead console.
Spaghetti time. My fingers got really cold.
Dome lights wired up and running on a 9v battery.
The red lights are pretty bright.
White lights.
Not quite as bright, but will still be very effective.
Spaghetti time. My fingers got really cold.
Dome lights wired up and running on a 9v battery.
The red lights are pretty bright.
White lights.
Not quite as bright, but will still be very effective.
I put a red LED with a home brew diffuser and then used an dimmer to dial it all the way back. It's wired to kick on with the headlights. A little metal sheild prevents me from seeing it directly.
The tiny bit of red ambient lighting is great in the cab at night.
Always love seeing your updates!
Mike
The tiny bit of red ambient lighting is great in the cab at night.
Always love seeing your updates!
Mike
- Thread starter
- #696
Thanks, Mike!
I may add in a dimmer switch for the red lights, that would be really nice to have. I do like the white lights as a dome light though. What did you use as a difuser?
This rig looks even better in person. Great work, @DangerNoodle.
DJ. Did bed line the tub?? I see some texture on the fire wall in your photos.
- Thread starter
- #699
No bedliner, but I did lizard skin sound deading and heat shielding to try an make it a more comfortable ride.
I need to put something on the inside of the tub. Did apply right over epoxy primer?
