Builds The LF40 Wheeler Build - Twin Turbo & 8 Speed Auto FJ40 (4 Viewers)

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Hopefully, I'll never have to pass emissions, but I'm not paying to have a new block done. I don't know though.
Not really that big of a deal. Swapping all you engines internals to another block wouldn't take long. Would cost a little bit of machine work and some new gaskets.
 

DangerNoodle

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Not really that big of a deal. Swapping all you engines internals to another block wouldn't take long. Would cost a little bit of machine work and some new gaskets.

A lot of time though. It seems like people have had really good luck with the ZZ4 and smog in CA, so I think I am ok.
 

DangerNoodle

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I reassembled the front drive of the engine today, hopefully for the last time in a while.

20210104_163022.jpg


I got my rear diff armor modified and welded up.

20201231_135133.jpg


I then started working on my radiator fitment.

That meant I had to get the front panels on.

20210104_173138.jpg


Amazing what 4 panels can do to make a cruiser look like a cruiser.

20210104_173619.jpg


I finally got the radiator and condenser put together so I can start looking at mounting them. I should have plenty of space.

20210104_180054.jpg


Anyways, thanks for looking.

-Noodle
 
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Thanks man. Always an inspiration.
going off to get sandblast and primed Then I will repair. Any words of wisdom. I watched some video from The 40 Channel and he did repetitive sanding and filler and painting. Take a look at my tub. Any advice is welcomed. Everything thing from behind the seat forward is pretty solid. My fenders, hood and front panel are perfect. Thanks.

00216A57-72FB-4EE5-ADC2-D847D4D61C12.jpeg
 

DangerNoodle

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Thanks man. Always an inspiration.
going off to get sandblast and primed Then I will repair. Any words of wisdom. I watched some video from The 40 Channel and he did repetitive sanding and filler and painting. Take a look at my tub. Any advice is welcomed. Everything thing from behind the seat forward is pretty solid. My fenders, hood and front panel are perfect. Thanks.

View attachment 2544684
Looks like the usual rust spots. Blasting will really help before patching. Take your time and make the patches match pretty closely. I like to have max a 1/16 of gap. It makes welding a lot easier. Look at some videos of body patching if you havent. The thicker metal of the 40 bodies is pretty forgiving, but do be careful. Get everything patched and then look at body work. A set of hammers and dollies will really help as well. If you have any questions, just ask. More than happy to help.
 
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DangerNoodle

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Hey DJ. How many coats of epoxy primer and topcoat did you apply? Paul
I did a light tack coat and a heavy coat of primer, but I will be bondoing over it and repriming for the tub. I have been using PPG Delton single stage as my topcoat for the interior, and that stuff lays down pretty heavy. So far, I have only needed to do 2 coats of that. Make sure you really follow the instructions on coat times with this stuff. Mixing brands can be a dangerous game for the topcoat and primer. If you don't let the primer fully cure before applying a topcoat, and it is incompatible, it can really mess stuff up.
 
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So I’m trying to get the sandblasting done. I have spoke to 2 shops and the estimate is from 1500-2500. That seems really high for no doors or top. What’s your opinion?
 

DangerNoodle

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So I’m trying to get the sandblasting done. I have spoke to 2 shops and the estimate is from 1500-2500. That seems really high for no doors or top. What’s your opinion?

I was about 2700 for everything, I think. The top, doors, hood, and other small panels are a lot of surface area.
 

DangerNoodle

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Wow, I had no idea it was so much.

It's expensive but totally worth it. I would have acid dipped it, but there was nowhere around her that does that.
 
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So I’m trying to get the sandblasting done. I have spoke to 2 shops and the estimate is from 1500-2500. That seems really high for no doors or top. What’s your opinion?
For comparison I just paid $870 for the cowl and front clip to be dustless blasted. It was higher than he quoted because”it was individual pieces”.they did get in every nook and cranny, inside and out I’m still happy with the final result, but like every thing else, more than I thought it would be.
 
Mating NV and Toybox

DangerNoodle

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I got the machined adapter plates back today, so that is what I am working on.

20210109_135806.jpg


20210109_130159.jpg


The machinist made an alignment pin to keep everything concentric and aligned when machining. The tolerances are great, so it should be pretty well aligned. @Godfather90 , have an opinions on it?

20210109_135842.jpg


He lathed down the 10 spline shaft, so it has the 2 5/8 stickout of the original SM.

20210109_135817.jpg


I dumped a bunch of RTV between the plates, and am letting it cure before tighenting it down all the way.

20210109_142906.jpg


Anyways, I should be putting this in the truck today.
 
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I reassembled the front drive of the engine today, hopefully for the last time in a while.

View attachment 2544481

I got my rear diff armor modified and welded up.

View attachment 2544478

I then started working on my radiator fitment.

That meant I had to get the front panels on.

View attachment 2544482

Amazing what 4 panels can do to make a cruiser look like a cruiser.

View attachment 2544490

I finally got the radiator and condenser put together so I can start looking at mounting them. I should have plenty of space.

View attachment 2544492

Anyways, thanks for looking.

-Noodle

what radiator combo is that and can you tell me how thick it is? i’m in need of a radiator but have quite a tight space i have to place it in!
 

DangerNoodle

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what radiator combo is that and can you tell me how thick it is? i’m in need of a radiator but have quite a tight space i have to place it in!


This is the radiator. It's about 3" thick I think. Let me measure.

Edit: Right at 3" thick. The black thing is my AC condenser.
 

DangerNoodle

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A quick dry fit of the pieces. It's long.....

20210109_173125.jpg


Partially stuffed in.

20210109_181329.jpg


The rear driveshaft is going to be short at about 17". This is going to be interesting.

20210109_183807.jpg


The front points about dead on. It's going to be about 42" long.

20210109_183834.jpg


The drop down is a bit more than I want, so I need to notch the floor and get the hump to match. I think I need to raise it about 2"-3" to maintain my breakover angle.

20210109_183816.jpg
 

DangerNoodle

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17"? Damn.

Yep. The driveshaft guys said that they can probably fit a DC in 17". I may push the axle back another inch or so.
 

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