Not really that big of a deal. Swapping all you engines internals to another block wouldn't take long. Would cost a little bit of machine work and some new gaskets.
Builds The LF40 Wheeler Build - Twin Turbo & 8 Speed Auto FJ40 (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter DangerNoodle
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- Thread starter
- #522
A lot of time though. It seems like people have had really good luck with the ZZ4 and smog in CA, so I think I am ok.
- Thread starter
- #523
I reassembled the front drive of the engine today, hopefully for the last time in a while.
I got my rear diff armor modified and welded up.
I then started working on my radiator fitment.
That meant I had to get the front panels on.
Amazing what 4 panels can do to make a cruiser look like a cruiser.
I finally got the radiator and condenser put together so I can start looking at mounting them. I should have plenty of space.
Anyways, thanks for looking.
-Noodle
I got my rear diff armor modified and welded up.
I then started working on my radiator fitment.
That meant I had to get the front panels on.
Amazing what 4 panels can do to make a cruiser look like a cruiser.
I finally got the radiator and condenser put together so I can start looking at mounting them. I should have plenty of space.
Anyways, thanks for looking.
-Noodle
Thanks man. Always an inspiration.
going off to get sandblast and primed Then I will repair. Any words of wisdom. I watched some video from The 40 Channel and he did repetitive sanding and filler and painting. Take a look at my tub. Any advice is welcomed. Everything thing from behind the seat forward is pretty solid. My fenders, hood and front panel are perfect. Thanks.
going off to get sandblast and primed Then I will repair. Any words of wisdom. I watched some video from The 40 Channel and he did repetitive sanding and filler and painting. Take a look at my tub. Any advice is welcomed. Everything thing from behind the seat forward is pretty solid. My fenders, hood and front panel are perfect. Thanks.
Sorry. More pics coming.
- Thread starter
- #526
Looks like the usual rust spots. Blasting will really help before patching. Take your time and make the patches match pretty closely. I like to have max a 1/16 of gap. It makes welding a lot easier. Look at some videos of body patching if you havent. The thicker metal of the 40 bodies is pretty forgiving, but do be careful. Get everything patched and then look at body work. A set of hammers and dollies will really help as well. If you have any questions, just ask. More than happy to help.
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Hey DJ. How many coats of epoxy primer and topcoat did you apply? Paul
- Thread starter
- #528
I did a light tack coat and a heavy coat of primer, but I will be bondoing over it and repriming for the tub. I have been using PPG Delton single stage as my topcoat for the interior, and that stuff lays down pretty heavy. So far, I have only needed to do 2 coats of that. Make sure you really follow the instructions on coat times with this stuff. Mixing brands can be a dangerous game for the topcoat and primer. If you don't let the primer fully cure before applying a topcoat, and it is incompatible, it can really mess stuff up.
So I’m trying to get the sandblasting done. I have spoke to 2 shops and the estimate is from 1500-2500. That seems really high for no doors or top. What’s your opinion?
- Thread starter
- #530
I was about 2700 for everything, I think. The top, doors, hood, and other small panels are a lot of surface area.
Oh ok. So in the ball park then. Thanks again.
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
Wow, I had no idea it was so much.
- Thread starter
- #533
It's expensive but totally worth it. I would have acid dipped it, but there was nowhere around her that does that.
For comparison I just paid $870 for the cowl and front clip to be dustless blasted. It was higher than he quoted because”it was individual pieces”.they did get in every nook and cranny, inside and out I’m still happy with the final result, but like every thing else, more than I thought it would be.
Mating NV and Toybox
- Thread starter
- #535
I got the machined adapter plates back today, so that is what I am working on.
The machinist made an alignment pin to keep everything concentric and aligned when machining. The tolerances are great, so it should be pretty well aligned. @Godfather90 , have an opinions on it?
He lathed down the 10 spline shaft, so it has the 2 5/8 stickout of the original SM.
I dumped a bunch of RTV between the plates, and am letting it cure before tighenting it down all the way.
Anyways, I should be putting this in the truck today.
The machinist made an alignment pin to keep everything concentric and aligned when machining. The tolerances are great, so it should be pretty well aligned. @Godfather90 , have an opinions on it?
He lathed down the 10 spline shaft, so it has the 2 5/8 stickout of the original SM.
I dumped a bunch of RTV between the plates, and am letting it cure before tighenting it down all the way.
Anyways, I should be putting this in the truck today.
what radiator combo is that and can you tell me how thick it is? i’m in need of a radiator but have quite a tight space i have to place it in!
- Thread starter
- #537
Frostbite FB192 Frostbite Aluminum Radiator- 3 Row
High-Horsepower street cars and trucks can be a challenge to keep cool. A proper cooling system starts with the right radiator. Aluminum Radiators cool more effectively and weigh less than older OEM style brass units. Choose from a variety of popular application specific fitments. Holley is...
www.holley.com
This is the radiator. It's about 3" thick I think. Let me measure.
Edit: Right at 3" thick. The black thing is my AC condenser.
- Thread starter
- #538
A quick dry fit of the pieces. It's long.....
Partially stuffed in.
The rear driveshaft is going to be short at about 17". This is going to be interesting.
The front points about dead on. It's going to be about 42" long.
The drop down is a bit more than I want, so I need to notch the floor and get the hump to match. I think I need to raise it about 2"-3" to maintain my breakover angle.
Partially stuffed in.
The rear driveshaft is going to be short at about 17". This is going to be interesting.
The front points about dead on. It's going to be about 42" long.
The drop down is a bit more than I want, so I need to notch the floor and get the hump to match. I think I need to raise it about 2"-3" to maintain my breakover angle.
17"? Damn.
- Thread starter
- #540
Yep. The driveshaft guys said that they can probably fit a DC in 17". I may push the axle back another inch or so.
