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My harness was pretty hacked too from lots of add ons, swaps, etc... Basically every time I drove the thing recently something else electrical would act up. I ended up going for the ez wire kit. It was pretty straight forward for the most part. I had to improvise a bit when it came to blinkers but a few minutes with a test light helped with that. The bigger ez wire 21 has flashers included and I just reused some of the factory connectors so I could keep the turn signal stalk on the facotry column. I also used a painless headlight switch with hi/low beam in it. Its fits in the factory spot too. You can paint the knob black and only the keen eye of a 40 purist will notice the difference. The kit is color coded and labeled every foot or so, so it will be easy to trace wire in the future should something go wrong. As an extra backup I plan to copy my notes onto a pdf version of the instructions, and then laminate to protect it as a good shop manual if I ever need a refresher on my wiring. The bigger 21 kit with the extra stuff cruisers don't need just makes it easier to have fused/switched leads ready to run to rock lights, interior aux lighting and anything else you can think off.For those of you that have gone through and rebuilt harnesses, how hard is it? I am not great at electrical. I also hate following diagrams. Also, where do you get the correct connectors? I'd like to start working on this harness soon, but I have no clue where to start.
I guess I should also ask, how do you stop yourself from wanting to beat the PO's with a brick? This harness has been pretty hacked.
That's a interesting way to go to the a pillar. If u added a long plate to the back side of the a pillar that goes the length with matching holes to sandwich the a pillar it might make it even stronger. Use big washers on the bolt heads maybe too. Cage looks good. Dont forget seat belt brackets on the cage for whewhen u have the top off.I finally got the cage done. I'm back to working full time so its going a bit slower.
I didn't want to have the a-pillars take up foot space, so I decided to make some mounts that will get welded up to the tub a-pillars. I'm sure some people will say that it is weaker than the straight tube, but it's better than a stock roll bar.
I started by cutting plates to fit the tub, and it sits right on a body mount. The crush resistance should be pretty good.
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I then used 2.5" × 2.5" × 3/16 angle to use as the pillar stiffener. I gusseted it and added a 3 × 3 × 1/4 plate as a mount.
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Here is how they sit. I drilled four holes to make the cage removable, and ended up threading the plates. I will back it up with a nut to be safe though.
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I then started tacking in the a-pillars.
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That's a interesting way to go to the a pillar. If u added a long plate to the back side of the a pillar that goes the length with matching holes to sandwich the a pillar it might make it even stronger. Use big washers on the bolt heads maybe too. Cage looks good. Dont forget seat belt brackets on the cage for whewhen u have the top off.