Builds The LF40 Wheeler Build - Twin Turbo & 8 Speed Auto FJ40 (7 Viewers)

DangerNoodle

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For those of you that have gone through and rebuilt harnesses, how hard is it? I am not great at electrical. I also hate following diagrams. Also, where do you get the correct connectors? I'd like to start working on this harness soon, but I have no clue where to start.

I guess I should also ask, how do you stop yourself from wanting to beat the PO's with a brick? This harness has been pretty hacked.
 

DangerNoodle

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For those of you that have gone through and rebuilt harnesses, how hard is it? I am not great at electrical. I also hate following diagrams. Also, where do you get the correct connectors? I'd like to start working on this harness soon, but I have no clue where to start.

I guess I should also ask, how do you stop yourself from wanting to beat the PO's with a brick? This harness has been pretty hacked.
My harness was pretty hacked too from lots of add ons, swaps, etc... Basically every time I drove the thing recently something else electrical would act up. I ended up going for the ez wire kit. It was pretty straight forward for the most part. I had to improvise a bit when it came to blinkers but a few minutes with a test light helped with that. The bigger ez wire 21 has flashers included and I just reused some of the factory connectors so I could keep the turn signal stalk on the facotry column. I also used a painless headlight switch with hi/low beam in it. Its fits in the factory spot too. You can paint the knob black and only the keen eye of a 40 purist will notice the difference. The kit is color coded and labeled every foot or so, so it will be easy to trace wire in the future should something go wrong. As an extra backup I plan to copy my notes onto a pdf version of the instructions, and then laminate to protect it as a good shop manual if I ever need a refresher on my wiring. The bigger 21 kit with the extra stuff cruisers don't need just makes it easier to have fused/switched leads ready to run to rock lights, interior aux lighting and anything else you can think off.
When I started this, the only electrical experience I had was hooking up an amp and 6x9s in my old pickup and my friend with even less experience helped. We got it going in a 3 day thrash, and now I have just been cleaning everything up slowly and adding stuff as funds roll in (stereo, rock lights). I obviously have not spent too much time with this kit, and 0 time with any others, but I'd still recommend it just because it wasn't as intimidating as I thought it would be.
If you end up going that route you will probably spend almost as much on connectors, heat shrink, and wire loom as you did on the harness.
 
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I've got a friend who has built a few impressive projects ( This Jeep Has A HEMI, Autocrosses And Runs 10.30s. It Tows, Too. - The Transmission ) and I picked his brain on the wiring situation in my 40. He recommended the Highway 15 Universal kit from American Autowire. There's also a Highway 22 Universal kit. I haven't gotten far enough in the project to determine which I need yet. ( Highway 15 Universal Wiring System ) I spent several weekends getting my wiring functional when I first got the truck and it's was totally hacked. My plan is to replace everything. I'm going to draw up a diagram ahead of time. There are some quirks in the way some circuits in these trucks work, like the turn signals and the windshield wipers. So a diagram will help me figure out how to work with the OE circuits where I need to and which things can just be replaced.
 

DangerNoodle

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Slowly finishing up most of the body patches and frame work.

I made up a riser for the bottom strike plate.
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I then got the rear crossmember replaced.
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Some D-Ring mounts got installed.

They are the TMR Customs large D-Ring mounts. You cant beat the price for a pair.

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Single pass on the outside, tripple pass on the back. It it mounted right next to the bracing for the frame mounts, so it should be plenty strong.

20200508_190655.jpg
 
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DangerNoodle

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Here it is resting on the frame. I think it looks pretty good.

20200508_185216.jpg


How about some lipstick on a pig?

20200508_192959.jpg
 
Cage

DangerNoodle

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More stuff got done yesterday.

Here is the bumper in (hopefully) its final place. Its a biatch to get on and off now the shackle mounts are partially in the way.

20200509_170302.jpg


I spent an ungodly amount of time trying to finish the patch in front of the drivers wheel well. The PO used so much seam sealer in that corner, and I can't really get it out so I am burning it out. Not the most fun.

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I then started working on the cage. Wrasslin it by yourself is not the easiest, but it is doable.

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Everything is lightly tacked in case I need to move it, but I'm planning on changing the front a-pillars to make it a bit more compact. I then ran out of gas, and need steel, so I am waiting to do stuff for a bit.

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I then helped my dad build this terrible little shelf to get stuff out of the way. Probably the worst thing I have built in a while due to lack of planning.

It works at least.

20200510_094018.jpg
 
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DangerNoodle

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I finally got the cage done. I'm back to working full time so its going a bit slower.

I didn't want to have the a-pillars take up foot space, so I decided to make some mounts that will get welded up to the tub a-pillars. I'm sure some people will say that it is weaker than the straight tube, but it's better than a stock roll bar.

I started by cutting plates to fit the tub, and it sits right on a body mount. The crush resistance should be pretty good.

20200515_171316.jpg


I then used 2.5" × 2.5" × 3/16 angle to use as the pillar stiffener. I gusseted it and added a 3 × 3 × 1/4 plate as a mount.

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Here is how they sit. I drilled four holes to make the cage removable, and ended up threading the plates. I will back it up with a nut to be safe though.

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I then started tacking in the a-pillars.

20200516_181345.jpg
 
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DangerNoodle

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There is a lot more foot room without the bars in the way.

20200517_183515.jpg


I then ran the upper spreaders. I could have gotten them from MetalTech, but I made them instead. It cost me about the same as shipping.

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Rear bars in.

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I got help to put the a-pillars in, but all of this could be done by yourself. I really like the MetalTech kit. It fits well and was pretty easy to assemble.
 
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I finally got the cage done. I'm back to working full time so its going a bit slower.

I didn't want to have the a-pillars take up foot space, so I decided to make some mounts that will get welded up to the tub a-pillars. I'm sure some people will say that it is weaker than the straight tube, but it's better than a stock roll bar.

I started by cutting plates to fit the tub, and it sits right on a body mount. The crush resistance should be pretty good.

View attachment 2309973

I then used 2.5" × 2.5" × 3/16 angle to use as the pillar stiffener. I gusseted it and added a 3 × 3 × 1/4 plate as a mount.

View attachment 2309974

Here is how they sit. I drilled four holes to make the cage removable, and ended up threading the plates. I will back it up with a nut to be safe though.

View attachment 2309975

View attachment 2309976

I then started tacking in the a-pillars.

View attachment 2309977
That's a interesting way to go to the a pillar. If u added a long plate to the back side of the a pillar that goes the length with matching holes to sandwich the a pillar it might make it even stronger. Use big washers on the bolt heads maybe too. Cage looks good. Dont forget seat belt brackets on the cage for whewhen u have the top off.
 

DangerNoodle

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That's a interesting way to go to the a pillar. If u added a long plate to the back side of the a pillar that goes the length with matching holes to sandwich the a pillar it might make it even stronger. Use big washers on the bolt heads maybe too. Cage looks good. Dont forget seat belt brackets on the cage for whewhen u have the top off.

Thanks! I'm planning on 5-point harnesses for this, so there will be more tube added for seat mounts and harness mounts.

I was hoping I could sandwich the tub pillar, but the hinge mounts are right in the way. I'm thinking that I am going to run a lower spreader bar right where the pillars disconnect from the frame to try and limit twisting if something does end up happening. I'm not worried about the crush forces, I am more worried about side load on the front of the cage, and I think that would really help. That would have to wait until the dash and heater is completely in though.

Overall I'm glad with how the cage turned out.
 

DangerNoodle

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My 4x4labs cage has the same style of A-pillar configuration and it is a lot nicer to use than the typical tube routing.

Do you have any pictures of that? I would love to see how they did it.
 
Drivetrain Build

DangerNoodle

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Dang, it's been a while. I haven't really gotten much done while waiting for the engine to get finished. I patched more cancer, and have started looking at other things to keep working on.

I went to Solid Axle Summit 4, which was a blast, and got to meet a ton of cool people. I also won a @dogfishlake 's roof rack while I was there too, which is awesome.

Anyhow, my engine got finished last week, and I picked it up today. It was susposed to get dynoed, but the dyno servo died on the first pull, which is a little dissapointing. It will be going back to get dynoed once I am done setting it.

It's susposed to make somewhere around 450 ft lbs of torque, and 400-425 horsepower.

More updates should be coming soon, as everything is ready to get mocked up and installed.

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20200817_205743.jpg
 

DangerNoodle

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I got the engine painted today, using the Dupli-Color engine enamel.

I got everything prepped using some 220 grit sand paper and some brake cleaner.

Then, the black portion of the engine got masked and primed.

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Then, the black went on.

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Here are a few shot of the finished engine.

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DangerNoodle

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I started getting the engine mock-dressed today for fitment. However, there was a slight clearance issue with the power steering and A/C bracket.

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I guess that is what happens when you start mixing years and models on these engines. I ordered some stock height valve covers, and they should hopefully give the clearance needed.

If anyone wants some Proform Centerbolt Valve Covers, let me know. I'll hook you up.

I also mated the transmission and transfer case.

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I used some red loctite and 42 ftlbs of torque on the bolts. I couldn't really find anything from AA, but for a 7/16 NC Zinc'd bolt, that was what was recomended.

Here is the rest of the engine mostly mock-assembled.

20200819_183814.jpg
 

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