Builds The LF40 Wheeler Build - Twin Turbo & 8 Speed Auto FJ40 (3 Viewers)

DangerNoodle

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The split case drops really low. It's both a blessing and a curse for me. My front driveline is really great, and I should be able to get the up travel that I was shooting for (5") out of it. The bellhousing sticks wayy out right where my driveshaft wants to live, and with the high pinion front, it is up way higher than a normal rig. I don't think I would have gotten the driveshaft to work very well with a higher output tcase like the stock one.
 

DangerNoodle

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What size tires?

Here's my rear prop shaft setup:

View attachment 2580771

Rear end:
View attachment 2580772

Rear shaft:

View attachment 2580773

Rear drive flange:

View attachment 2580774

I set this up with the top off. There is usually 1-2* in less the rear.

Here's the angle of the truck:
View attachment 2580778

SO about 2* butt side up.

Hope that helps,

Mike

I'm currently on 37"s, may end up getting 39"s when I get some non-stickies. I really like the look you have with the 39"s
 

DangerNoodle

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The split case drops really low. It's both a blessing and a curse for me. My front driveline is really great, and I should be able to get the up travel that I was shooting for (5") out of it. The bellhousing sticks wayy out right where my driveshaft wants to live, and with the high pinion front, it is up way higher than a normal rig. I don't think I would have gotten the driveshaft to work very well with a higher output tcase like the stock one.
Yea it escaped me that you have a high pinion front.

On the radius arm suspensions it is not uncommon to run like this:

1612909486781.png


Utilizing radius arms keeps the angle constant enough that coupled with a high pinion front gives the ability to run steering on the rear of the front axle along with a standard front shaft. This lets manufacturers get proper Ackermann via a narrower than king pin width tie rod in the rear rather than wider than king pin width as needed in the front of the axle.

You definitely wont have room for this, just thought you might find it interesting.

Mike
 

DangerNoodle

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Yea it escaped me that you have a high pinion front.

On the radius arm suspensions it is not uncommon to run like this:

View attachment 2580782

Utilizing radius arms keeps the angle constant enough that coupled with a high pinion front gives the ability to run steering on the rear of the front axle along with a standard front shaft. This lets manufacturers get proper Ackermann via a narrower than king pin width tie rod in the rear rather than wider than king pin width as needed in the front of the axle.

You definitely wont have room for this, just thought you might find it interesting.

Mike

Never really thought about that till now. It makes sense.

How would you run the front driveshaft on this? What caster do you run with 39"s? I'm afraid the driveline angles are going to get funky with the amount of caster I think I want to run with the larger tires.
 
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Never really thought about that till now. It makes sense.

How would you run the front driveshaft on this? What caster do you run with 39"s? I'm afraid the driveline angles are going to get funky with the amount of caster I think I want to run with the larger tires.
I have 6-7* front castor angle.

Here are my front angles:
1612910779499.png



front diff flange:
1612910817593.png


Shaft flange:
1612910847803.png


And the front flange is equal and opposite the rear.

Obviously not as great as the rear angles, but still no vibrations no matter how fast you go.

I think the front axle is ~38" long.

Mike
 

DangerNoodle

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I decided to start working on my speaker mounts.

Plasma'd out

20210209_154845.jpg


Cleaned up.

20210209_170818.jpg


Imstalled

20210209_172851.jpg


20210209_174642.jpg


Paint.

20210209_183304.jpg
 
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Looks like 40° rear shackle and 55° front.

I'm going to change all that when I get springs made. Probably will get a shorter rear shackle and move the hanger back a few inches.
 

DangerNoodle

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To test the flex (drop and compress) you can remove all the leafs and only use the main leaf with a shim to simulate your leaf pack thickness

Is there an easy way to disassemble the leaves? These are pretty rusty.
 

MOTOV8R

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I put a couple c clamps on them and start loosening the nut on the bolt. You can control how much tension is on the bolt with the clamps. If you have new bolts to replace the old, you can use vice grips on the pin side if it's rotating. If the rust is really bad you can just cut off the end (with it clamped).
 
Coilovers

DangerNoodle

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:)

20210210_121142.jpg


20210210_121417.jpg


20210210_121923.jpg

 

DangerNoodle

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So, after some screwing around, I managed to get 6.5" of uptravel out of this link system. If I link the rear, I could haul ass through the desert :rofl:. Another time, maybe.

Anyways, about 25" to the center of the axle at full stuff. It normally is around 18.5" at ride height.

20210210_174936.jpg


Good clearance for the upper link.

20210210_175005.jpg


Close to 90° from the lower link at full stuff. The other side is the limiting factor for this, as my A/C stuff is wanting to live in the same place.

20210210_185226.jpg


I'm placing the shock hoops at a dead 90°

20210210_185234.jpg


Flexyyyyyy. I still have another inch of droop, but the floor got in the way.

20210210_185531.jpg
 

DangerNoodle

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I can't wait to have this thing in the rocks.

20210210_185603.jpg


20210210_193459.jpg


Other side. All angles are matched within 1°.

20210210_204022.jpg


20210210_204031.jpg


Now I gotta get caught up on homework. Ugh.
 

DangerNoodle

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A few pics I didnt toss in last night.

Fully drooped out.

20210210_225452.jpg


Full stuff.

24557.jpeg


Current caster.

24571.jpeg
 

DangerNoodle

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I got my speakers up cause they were just lying around.

20210211_131644.jpg


After some extensive research and talking with @Godfather90 and Ben @ Filthy Motorsports, I didn't like the angles that the coilovers were sitting at.

The King 2.0s don't like much angle due to their smaller shaft, so between 0°-5° is recommended. On larger coilovers up to 15° is more acceptable.

Starting back at full stuff, I started reworking the angles.

For high-speed racing applications, 90° to the fully compressed lower link is what is recommended. Although this 40 will not be seeing high speed over whoops and rocks much, I want to have the best possible geometry that I can achieve.

I'm about 1° shy of 90° with the coilovers now, with the compromise being that I lowered my stuff by about 1/2". So only 6" of uptravel.

20210211_141616.jpg


Within 5° of horizontal angle at full stuff. Note that they will all get closer to 90° as the suspension droops out.

20210211_142322.jpg


Man, the Kings are pretty.

20210211_142404.jpg
 
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DangerNoodle

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The hoops ended up around 90° as well.

20210211_142357.jpg


Readjusted angles.

20210211_154026.jpg


20210211_151136.jpg


Anyways, I'm much happier with those angles overall. The panhard and steering is up next, once I get the hellfire knuckles.

I'm hoping to fully dive into wiring while waiting for those knuckles.
 

DangerNoodle

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Why do the coilovers care what angle they are at? I know you affect the shock and coil rate depending on the placement but it doesn't hurt the coilovers wherever you put it right? Do you have to install bump stops too?

The smaller 2.0s dont like much side load I guess. Like you said, the closer to 90° these live, the closer the spring rate will be to a 1:1. I still need to do bump stops and limit straps for the front.
 
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Its tough to sideload something that has a heim joint at both ends.

Usually the reason to angle the shocks inward is for frame clearance at the bottom and tire clearance at the top, if you have both under articulation then rock on. Like you said the spring and valving rates will be more linear.
 

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