Builds The LF40 Wheeler Build - Twin Turbo & 8 Speed Auto FJ40

DangerNoodle

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DangerNoodle

Essentially a fire wielding monkey.
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Divide, Colorado
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DangerNoodle

Essentially a fire wielding monkey.
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I'm thinking that I'm going to revise the upper link and make it 75% of the lowers to try and help combat my clearance issues. I'm thinking that if I can keep the pinion at a more constant angle, it will not point the driveshaft at the bell housing and oil pan as much. It may be a bit harder on u-joints, but I will also get better on-road performance out of it.
 

DangerNoodle

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Well, I spent some time crawling around under the rig today and got the upper link adjusted and moved.

It's starting to look like I may have enough driveshaft clearance. Who knows, though.

The upper link is now 70% of the lowers at 27.25". The mounting heights in the pictures are not at the correct position, it was just for clearance testing.

20200902_213539.jpg


20200902_213516.jpg


20200902_213525.jpg
 
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On my 3-link, my u-joint at the axle housing is the limiting factor for droop, I would try to truck with the high-pinion or do a cut-and-turn on the knuckles to get the pinion pointed at the t-case.
 

DangerNoodle

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On my 3-link, my u-joint at the axle housing is the limiting factor for droop, I would try to truck with the high-pinion or do a cut-and-turn on the knuckles to get the pinion pointed at the t-case.

The pinion points dead at the tcase. I'm worried that the driveshaft is going to hit the bellhousing before I reach desired stuff.
 

cruisermatt

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The pinion points dead at the tcase. I'm worried that the driveshaft is going to hit the bellhousing before I reach desired stuff.

easy, start cutting some of the bellhousing

What are your plans for a mating a DC shaft to the early T-case outputs?
 

DangerNoodle

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easy, start cutting some of the bellhousing

What are your plans for a mating a DC shaft to the early T-case outputs?

It's hard to start cutting right there, as it is the starter mount. This is a newer replacement t-case, so I assume that I can get a DC pretty easily. However, I don't think that I really need one though.
 

DangerNoodle

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Can you raise the engine and drivetrain ?
,maybe you can get an extra inch

It's about as tight as I want it. I have about an inch to the top of the tranny hump with the trans shifter. I would prefer not to change the angle of the engine, as it is right about perfect at 3*-4*.

Really, if I gave this thing some more height it would do it. I have the bottom of the frame at about 23.5" and I would prefer to not make it any taller. If I can get 4"-5" of stuff, I'll be more than happy because I have all the droop in the world.
 

DangerNoodle

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Drivetrain raise and a 1" body lift :hmm:

Maybe. I really need to get the driveshafts made and then look at possibilities. That would be and easier one, though.
 
Saginaw Conversion

DangerNoodle

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I got the saginaw conversion completed today. I am using the 4x4 labs kit. It went together great, and was a pretty easy install. The steering box is a heep J20 box, rebuilt by Redhead Steering Gears.

Here is how the frame started today.

20200910_094315.jpg


Brackets stripped and everything lightly tacked.

20200910_133636.jpg


Fully welded.

20200910_143254.jpg


The kit was pretty easy to install. I like that it locates the box without much work.

20200910_171310.jpg


20200910_171320.jpg
 

DangerNoodle

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Well, the cruiser is partially apart again.

Everything besides the tub is headed off to the blaster.

20200913_153743.jpg


20200913_170402.jpg


Since the top and sides are completley off, I decided to get the rest of the cage finish welded.

To help reduce the *bonk* factor for the rear jump seats, I decided to rework the rear parallels.

I cut the tubes off from the original locations, and notched and bent them to form into one tube.

20200913_190430.jpg


Here is everything finish welded up. I still need to cut off the old stubs, but that can be done pretty easily.

20200913_194803.jpg


With no body panels on, the cruiser looks kinda funny, but I like it.

20200913_194911.jpg



@White Stripe , how did you mount your rear jump seats? I've had a few ideas rattling around, but I would like to see what you did.

Thanks!

Like always, feedback is appreciated.

-Noodle
 
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Here is a bit of a build thread on my rear seats.
 

DangerNoodle

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Here is a bit of a build thread on my rear seats.

Awesome, thank you!
 
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Awesome, thank you!
I noticed I didn't show my latest mounting bracket in that seat write up. Here is my latest seat bracket. Its a bracket that bolts to the cage. the seats don't bolt to the fenderwell now like I had it in the old tub.
 

cruisermatt

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i have never liked the way those cages have the tubes running front to rear like that.
I would cut both out and make an X over the whole thing, triangulation is your friend, rectangulation isn't


fj40cage6.jpg
 

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