Nice to see progress again
Builds The LF40 Wheeler Build - Twin Turbo & 8 Speed Auto FJ40 (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter DangerNoodle
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #222
I know! I'm waiting on a new bell housing and adapter kit, throwout bearing, pilot bearing, and twin-stick kit from AA to get this all cobbled together.
Then I get to go hack off the po's old t-case mounts that look like they were welded by a monkey.
- Thread starter
- #223
I have also started redesigning the fuel tank. I don't trust the steel one I have, and one of my friends who owns a fab shop said that he would help me make a new one out of aluminum.
It's a rough plan now, and any input would be welcome. I'm planning on having a large drop-down on the passenger side as the pickup, so there will be less of a chance of starving on off-camber or steep situations. I'm also going to have a small incline running from the driver side to the passenger side to help keep fuel from pooling and becoming unusable.
The current design is 6170 in^3 or 26.7 gallons.
It's a rough plan now, and any input would be welcome. I'm planning on having a large drop-down on the passenger side as the pickup, so there will be less of a chance of starving on off-camber or steep situations. I'm also going to have a small incline running from the driver side to the passenger side to help keep fuel from pooling and becoming unusable.
The current design is 6170 in^3 or 26.7 gallons.
Looks good to me. Proper internal baffling is a very important part when it comes to fuel tanks. If you reduce the height of the tank an inch or two compared to the stock tank it would give a little more room for seat installation.
- Thread starter
- #225
It's currently about 1.5" lower than stock.
- Thread starter
- #226
I went dirt biking this weekend in Ouray, and rode Poughkeepsie, Imogene, Cinnamon, Hurricane, Black Bear, and Yankee Boy.
It was a fun weekend trip, and when I got home, my Advance Adapter order arrived.
I stuck the engine and transimssion combo together, without the clutch and flywheel, as it is all coming apart again.
Having that much money hanging from a harbor freight engine lift is scary.
Stabbed in for the first time! (Don't be gettin any funny ideas, this ain't chit-chat)
It was a fun weekend trip, and when I got home, my Advance Adapter order arrived.
I stuck the engine and transimssion combo together, without the clutch and flywheel, as it is all coming apart again.
Having that much money hanging from a harbor freight engine lift is scary.
Stabbed in for the first time! (Don't be gettin any funny ideas, this ain't chit-chat)
Last edited:
Mounting Drivetrain
- Thread starter
- #227
I then started working on the rough position of the drivetrain.
I think I have it about where I want it. It will probably all drop about a 1/2 inch once I start getting brackets tacked in.
I'm not sure about the angle of the engine, I need to pick up a gauge to double check.
Any thoughts about the position would be appreciated if you think something needs to be changed.
I think I have it about where I want it. It will probably all drop about a 1/2 inch once I start getting brackets tacked in.
I'm not sure about the angle of the engine, I need to pick up a gauge to double check.
Any thoughts about the position would be appreciated if you think something needs to be changed.
I would have your suspension and steering in before mocking up the motor too much. It's also good to have the front suspension sitting at full stuff so you can check all your clearances. Also make sure your motor and trans is perpendicular with the frame rails.
- Thread starter
- #229
That's the problem that I am having with the front links. I want the engine mostly in, so i can design it around the space available.
I still need to get my saginaw box and the couplers, but I'll probably try to mock that up too.
When I put the Dana 60, 3-link and 350 in my FJ40, the bottom of the oil-pan is the same elevation as the bottom of the frame, I used a full-width truss on the Dana 60 so the top of the axle is the same elevation all the way across. The top link mount is between the motor and frame rail on the driver side.
- Thread starter
- #231
What is your engine angle? I'm really wanting to avoid having a really tilted engine.
I think my down-tilt is 3*. My engine is further forward than most, as I needed to fit the twin-cases.
- Thread starter
- #233
Yesterday I didn't have much time due to classes, but I got the twin stick for the transfer case partially installed.
The levers will need to be bent, adjusted, and welded, but that will happen once the drivetrain is fully set.
I also got around to measuing the wheel base. It is currently at 99", and probably going to stay somewhere around there.
The links are going to be tight, and I'm probably not going to get too much up travel, but it should all still fit.
Today, I started working on partially mounting the engine.
I started with plating the frame where the mounts will be going.
The levers will need to be bent, adjusted, and welded, but that will happen once the drivetrain is fully set.
I also got around to measuing the wheel base. It is currently at 99", and probably going to stay somewhere around there.
The links are going to be tight, and I'm probably not going to get too much up travel, but it should all still fit.
Today, I started working on partially mounting the engine.
I started with plating the frame where the mounts will be going.
- Thread starter
- #234
The engine is a little farther forward than I would like, but the rear t-case crossmember mounts are forcing that. I'm chaning the radiator and mounts, so I will make up some space there.
I plated both the engine and t-case mount locations.
Here is how the rear crossmember is sitting.
The engine is at 4° of tilt at the valve covers, and 1° at the intake maifold. There is currently about 3/16" of tweak side to side, but I should be able to get everything parallel with the slop in the mount points.
Like always, feedback is appreciated and welcome.
I plated both the engine and t-case mount locations.
Here is how the rear crossmember is sitting.
The engine is at 4° of tilt at the valve covers, and 1° at the intake maifold. There is currently about 3/16" of tweak side to side, but I should be able to get everything parallel with the slop in the mount points.
Like always, feedback is appreciated and welcome.
Consider carefully if you ever want to have air conditioning. If so that will force you to move the radiator back about 2" from stock.
- Thread starter
- #236
That is a good point. Vintage air has some 3/4" thick condensers. I may need to get a stubby fan clutch to help alleviate the problem.
Front Link System
- Thread starter
- #237
I have been working on the front link system. I started by looking at space available with the axle near full stuff. I'm hoping for around 5"- 6" of up travel.
I then started placing the link mounts.
I then started making the lower links.
Lower links in. They are 38.75" long, and sit at 8* at ride height.
I then started placing the link mounts.
I then started making the lower links.
Lower links in. They are 38.75" long, and sit at 8* at ride height.
- Thread starter
- #238
Upper link in. It is 35" long. I set the caster at ride height to 3* with the 80 axles. I think that 2*-4* is factory caster, but If I am wrong, please let me know.
At about 7" of stuff, it starts to get close to the oil filter.
It seems to flex really well. I'm thinking that the limiting factor is going to be the driveshaft. I don't have it made yet, so I will need to recheck clearances once it gets installed.
There is over 14" of droop, but I'm not really sure how much is useable.
Here is the link geometry.
At about 7" of stuff, it starts to get close to the oil filter.
It seems to flex really well. I'm thinking that the limiting factor is going to be the driveshaft. I don't have it made yet, so I will need to recheck clearances once it gets installed.
There is over 14" of droop, but I'm not really sure how much is useable.
Here is the link geometry.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #239
Does anyone know if there is a low pinion front diff that fits into the 80 front axle housing? It would probably solve all my clearance issues if I could drop the pinion around 2 inches.
