Builds The LF40 Wheeler Build - Twin Turbo & 8 Speed Auto FJ40

[DangerNoodle]

Got some new @ToyotaMatt bling today. Awesome work and quality as always.

 

[DangerNoodle]

Lots more getting done, I'm just slow to update.

Lizard skin ceramic coats on. It lays down really nice, but coverage is worse than the sound deadening. The texture really came out nice, with small bumps, kinda like lizard skin . Its not at all like the rough truck bedliner texture.

All my front frameside brackets gusseted and finish welded.

I decided that this needed to go.

Some good ole CAD. I'm using 2×2 ×1/4 wall square stock. Tube would be stronger, but my little Hazard Freight bender would not be up to the task of bending 1/4 wall, and neither would my arms.

Bent and gusseted up.

 

[DangerNoodle]

Popped into the frame.

Traction bar started.

It is currently about 8" off of axle center, but it is the first flat spot on the 80 axle, and I'm not changing the bracket.

Anyways, thoughts and opinions appreciated on work like this that I've never really done before. Suggestions welcome.

-Noodle

 

[White Stripe]

I am not positive, but I would think you would want a tube instead of square due to frame flex. I would think the square would cause frame cracking eventually.

 

[DangerNoodle]

I am not positive, but I would think you would want a tube instead of square due to frame flex. I would think the square would cause frame cracking eventually.

I think that it will probably cause some stress risers, but the way I am planning on attaching it should be ok. I have no idea, but have seen several people use square tube as crossmembers.

 

[DangerNoodle]

I am not positive, but I would think you would want a tube instead of square due to frame flex. I would think the square would cause frame cracking eventually.

Really though, I'm hoping to have very limited frame flex. With the boxing, new cross member, and amount of skid plate I am planning on having should really limit it.

 

[DangerNoodle]

I finished the anti-wrap bar, but it is only tacked together. If anyone sees any problems with it, please let me know.

The top is not super parallel, but I want to have enough vertical separation to make the bar effective, at the cost of the antisquat. I'm following the link rule of 25% of tire height for vertical separation, so I should have plenty.

Here is my plan for attaching the new crossmember. I'll round the corners of the plate before fully welding.

I started working on attaching the front bumper today.

There are 8 grade 10.9 12mm x 1.75 bolts holding this thing on, so it should be plenty strong.

Final gussets on.

 

[DangerNoodle]

Lots of stuff done today, but few pictures. I got the rear spring perches squared and aligned to the frame and fully welded everything. I am moving up to a 6" shackle from the 4" currently on there, so I am waiting to fully weld the shackle perches. Everything the frame is now fully welded besides those, so I shot some paint. I am using Five Star semigloss hotrod black DTM, and it really sticks well. I've used it on a couple of trailers, and it has worn well.

Next we got the tub flipped and off the trailer, and then back on the frame. The lizard skin got banged a few times, but it held up really well and did not dent or scratch. Next on the list is getting body mounts attached and starting on reassembly.

Finally, the cage went on so I can begin working on my seat mounts and tying them into the cage.

The engine is off to go get dynoed and the sniper will get a custom tune for it. Once that is back reassembly of the drivetrain will begin along with the skidplate and sliders.

 

[DangerNoodle]

Some goodies showed up in the mail today. New switch covers and a few switches for my wiring. And no, I wont be mutliating my dash, I promise.

 

[DangerNoodle]

Started working on the seat mounts today.

The harzard frought bender works ok if you constantly move the bend, but it also makes it much harder to make things even.

I finished the CAD of my tank so I have something to go off of. I need to get the doors back on to gaurnetee that everything fits, but there should be plenty if space.

I'm using 1 1/4" tubing 1/8 wall. It bends pretty well.

Pretty even, so I'll take it.

First test fit. I have tube clamps to use on the cage side, and I'll use some of the factory seat mounting holes for the front.

 

[DangerNoodle]

A little more got done on the seat mounts today and finalized the tank dimensions. It will hold 28.5 gallons being 7.5" tall. I think that is pretty good.

I then got distracted by @Manitou Decline , and then somehow managed to come home with this.

Anyways, some new driveline modifications are in order. I'm thinking 3.1:1 gears for the overdrive, and a blackbox-c instead of the AA adapter. 260:1 low. Nice.

 

[Manitou Decline]

When you stop in to say hi and leave with your unicorn.

 

[DangerNoodle]

When you stop in to say hi and leave with your unicorn.

I know, right? Dumb luck that happened. I am happy it did though.

 

[White Stripe]

I think that it will probably cause some stress risers, but the way I am planning on attaching it should be ok. I have no idea, but have seen several people use square tube as crossmembers.

The other issue I see is clearance between the back of the tcase and the crossmember. You want enough clearance to remove/install the Trans and or tcase for servicing which is about 6" or so. Just a heads up.

 

[DangerNoodle]

The other issue I see is clearance between the back of the tcase and the crossmember. You want enough clearance to remove/install the Trans and or tcase for servicing which is about 6" or so. Just a heads up.

Yep. I'm thinking I may need to make the new tcase crossmember removable. I need to figure that out somehow now.

 

[DangerNoodle]

More goodies have arrived. @Gotta be Geared gave me a great deal on a RTX cluster and all the BIMs i wanted, and that showed up today.

My in-cab winch controls showed up as well. Any ideas where to put it?

My vintage air kit also showed up, so once I get the rest of the dash painted, I can begin reinstalling and wiring stuff. Exciting!

 

[cruisermatt]

I would just go straight to the splitcase and put gears in it. Having a crazy low range like 260:1 sounds like fun and is a cool party trick but is not worth the complications of the the big drivetrain, especially in a 40. In my opinion. What axle gears were you planning again?

 

[DangerNoodle]

I would just go straight to the splitcase and put gears in it. Having a crazy low range like 260:1 sounds like fun and is a cool party trick but is not worth the complications of the the big drivetrain, especially in a 40. In my opinion. What axle gears were you planning again?

I currently have 5.29s

 

[DangerNoodle]

I would just go straight to the splitcase and put gears in it. Having a crazy low range like 260:1 sounds like fun and is a cool party trick but is not worth the complications of the the big drivetrain, especially in a 40. In my opinion. What axle gears were you planning again?

And really, it would only extend my drivetrain 2" more. I think. You have the NV4500 to split case black box, correct?

 

[cruisermatt]

And really, it would only extend my drivetrain 2" more. I think. You have the NV4500 to split case black box, correct?

It would extend your drivetrain like 8” .
I have a 203 doubler.

4-1 gears in the t case puts you at 120:1 or 135:1 depending on which Nv4500 you have. That’s pleeeenty.

So you could just keep the adapter you have an bolt an Orion in to accomplish this.