Want to make another set in a diy kit? I will pick up at sas?
Also what are you doing to the rear axle?
Builds The LF40 Wheeler Build - Twin Turbo & 8 Speed Auto FJ40 (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter DangerNoodle
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Also what are you doing to the rear axle?
- Thread starter
- #1,762
I can probably do that, I don't know if I have enough material on hand now, but I can get more.
I'm centering my rear. I have really bad driveline vibration above 65 due to the centered atlas and offset 80 housing.
Once you get done, shoot me a pm with est cost,.
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I would be interested in a diy set as well.
No rush on my end though.
Are you sure your DS vibration is because of a non-centered rear diff?
Unless you're waaaaaaay over to one side and out of the range of motion of the u-joint then that isn't your issue. The pinion rotating upward under hard acceleration (read: 65mph+ in your case) is what causes vibration. The U-joints don't care where they are under the vehicle - just that they remain perfectly aligned. Sorry, I haven't read the rest of your thread to know if you have something other than leafs or worn bushings in the rear.
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- #1,766
It does it on accel, decel, of course gets worse with speed. I've adjusted my links around to play with the pinion angle and get it pointing more and less at the tcase output, and it pretty drastically changes the amount of vibration. I can also take a turn hard and get it to do it when the suspension unloads (read more angle on the driveline). I'm 99* sure it's the combined angle on the CV from the offset plus angle to rach the diff.
MOTOV8R
SILVER Star
Is this how it’s setup now? If so that offset doesn’t seem too bad. Are you running a DC shaft?
- Thread starter
- #1,768
It's a DC. I've measured it out, it's about 25 degrees combined which is pushing the joint.
- Thread starter
- #1,769
Slow day for me today, got up late and went to the gym, then had to go sail the high seas for a bit and get more audiobooks cause I was about out. Starting the complete Michael Chricton now.
Anyhow, got both sides for the flares bent up and one side mostly together.
Skin tacked on.
Made the flange and tacked it on.
I'm planning on opening these up to fit 39"s
Good width
Chucked the rear lights on just to see. Very happy with the throw.
Anyhow, got both sides for the flares bent up and one side mostly together.
Skin tacked on.
Made the flange and tacked it on.
I'm planning on opening these up to fit 39"s
Good width
Chucked the rear lights on just to see. Very happy with the throw.
Clean work DJ as always !
That is going to look great. Well done
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Just put in SEMA already geez
- Thread starter
- #1,773
Just put in SEMA already geez
next one, maybe
What gauge tube are you using? looks to kink up.
- Thread starter
- #1,775
Yep lol. Its way thin for that die I have. Believe it is .083 wall I had lying around for some light secondary cage material. Normally I would use .120 and that has pretty low deformation. Didn't have any around, but oh well.
This may just be the way you're wording it but the pinion angle of the rear diff isn't supposed to be pointing directly at the t-case out put (I think). It should be pointing just a little higher so that the DC joint has room to angle downward and connect to the DS. There can't be any kinking of the DC set-up or more (or less) angle at either of the u-joints in it. I'm under the impression that everything has to be equally bisected or the DC will wobble a good bit especially at speed. The slip joint in the DS will compensate to some degree but , at normal ride height, everything should be spot on. A 4-link will hold that angle pretty well but introduces variation in pinion angle over compression/extension depending on how equal or unequal the upper and lower links are.
I would think that if your rear diff isn't centered you still have to aim the pinion at the right spot. You kind of have to pretend that "vertical" is actual rotated a few degrees to the left because your diff is on the right. Sort of tip your head to sight it correctly. I don't have a lot of experience with DC rear driveshafts so I'm probably just mixed up here. I can also see your point that with things off center the DC joint is really just a bunch of weight being flung around at an angle while gravity is pulling straight down.
Anyway, nice work overall. I'm sure you'll get it sorted.
- Thread starter
- #1,777
This may just be the way you're wording it but the pinion angle of the rear diff isn't supposed to be pointing directly at the t-case out put (I think). It should be pointing just a little higher so that the DC joint has room to angle downward and connect to the DS. There can't be any kinking of the DC set-up or more (or less) angle at either of the u-joints in it. I'm under the impression that everything has to be equally bisected or the DC will wobble a good bit especially at speed. The slip joint in the DS will compensate to some degree but , at normal ride height, everything should be spot on. A 4-link will hold that angle pretty well but introduces variation in pinion angle over compression/extension depending on how equal or unequal the upper and lower links are.
I would think that if your rear diff isn't centered you still have to aim the pinion at the right spot. You kind of have to pretend that "vertical" is actual rotated a few degrees to the left because your diff is on the right. Sort of tip your head to sight it correctly. I don't have a lot of experience with DC rear driveshafts so I'm probably just mixed up here. I can also see your point that with things off center the DC joint is really just a bunch of weight being flung around at an angle while gravity is pulling straight down.
Anyway, nice work overall. I'm sure you'll get it sorted.
I think I have the pinon angle as correct as it can get, but there is just too much overall angle and it starts oscillating at speed. I'm hoping I can get much better geometry with the new axle to get pinion angle and reduce the overall ds angle by about half.
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- #1,778
Not a lot of progress pics, but a lot of welding done today.
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- #1,780
That was my plan (hope) when I built the rear bumper. I guess it worked out cause I didn't put too much thought into it lol.
