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This may be different on your setup. The bottom links will also adjust the wheelbase on mine. The tops don’t seem to change the wheelbase. I would set your wheelbase where you want it, making sure that your even on both sides, then see if you have enough threads on top to achieve the desired caster, then adjust everything equally from there if you need more adjustments.
I do not think it matters much. Look at the amount of threads showing and go from there. You will want to keep a lot of thread in the tube.
I think its going to depend on whoever built your links measured. One thing that really helped me were two sets of the toe alignment tools from Ruffstuff. I set it on jackstands and put one on each hub. Worked really well to pull tapes front to rear, across, and diagonally to get everything tuned in.
I’ve been reading up on link suspension for my build. There are some great resources on irate4x4 including a great link suspension calculator. You could put your existing measurements in and see a chart predicting the handling and try to make improvements in the spreadsheet, if you are so inclined.
Linking to other websites is acceptable.
Linking to other websites is acceptable.
Then I would have to learn to use the calculator
irate4x4.com
Those calculators can be very useful, and they can be distracting at the same time.New Version of the 4 Link Calculator
Current Version: 7.alpha.3 All versions I have access to can be found on the Resources Page. Link to the linked suspension bible: Linked Suspensions Bible Link to the Check My Numbers thread: How's my numbers? With the changes to the board, a goal was set of generating more current and up...
Here’s a link to the discussion of the calculator, link to resources takes you to it, you have to sign up as a user to see the download button.
I’ve spent two weeks on and off reading everything I could instead of actually doing anything on my build. Sure hope this works.
I can say if I just went and built it the way my brain thought it should be packaged, it’d be a disaster. But I’ve never even been around a link suspension, starting from scratch here.
I'm calling it a win !
1 step forward two steps back.
so I thought the vent must be clogged.
That looks really clean, I'm jelly
Got a picture of my breather tonight. From a ‘78 Ford.Both of the diff covers leak and I have the stuff to fix them and new gear oil so I started to work on that.
When I went to pull the first bolt on the front a big puff of air came out
I have look and I can't find a vent is this normal on a Dana 60? I have little to no experience with Dana axles
It does have drive flanges so it's turning all the time.
Thanks in advance for any Help/input
They are more likely to leak if you don’t have a vent. You’re effectively pressurizing them as they get hot. To make it easy, and avoid getting metal shavings in not nice places, I would drill and tap your diff covers and use 45 or 90 degree brass fittings if you have the room, run to a breather hose and you can put a little check valve on it if you’d like. Or if that won’t work, drill and tap on the differential housing with the cover off and a rag where you can catch the shavings.Both of the diff covers leak and I have the stuff to fix them and new gear oil so I started to work on that.
When I went to pull the first bolt on the front a big puff of air came out
I have look and I can't find a vent is this normal on a Dana 60? I have little to no experience with Dana axles
It does have drive flanges so it's turning all the time.
Thanks in advance for any Help/input
100% what I would do.
