Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #1,441
I need some help locating better 1/2-20 grade 8 weld nuts. The ones from Ruffstuff are way too soft and I stripped two more threads. What are you all using?
Builds Stretched 1-Ton FJ40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Mike Shull
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Did you try fastenal? Or even Ace hardware? Maybe grade 10 instead of grade 8? You could get regular ones and grind them down to weld in?
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #1,443
Fastenal didn’t have this thread pitch. I initially found some at McMaster, but I went with Ruffstuff as I needed some other pieces.
Here are the other ones that I found. I’d rather go with something that others know are good quality.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
I use McMaster Carr a lot and find them to have quality stuff and they ship super fast !!Fastenal didn’t have this thread pitch. I initially found some at McMaster, but I went with Ruffstuff as I needed some other pieces.
Here are the other ones that I found. I’d rather go with something that others know are good quality.
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.www.mcmaster.com
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #1,445
Update on the crossmember challenge. I took some time last night to investigate why I was stripping threads and I noticed that my frame has pulled apart a bit when my crossmember was removed. I braced the frame initially before I removed the crossmember to insure that the frame and suspension mounts stayed in place while I removed the welded tubes and replaced them with flanges. With the crossmember in place but unbolted, there is about 1/8” of a gap on either side between the brace and the frame. The force needed to pull the frame back together is clearly exceeding the capacity of the weld nuts.
Unless others have better ideas, I plan to sleeve and plate the frame from the outside so that I can fasten a bolt all the way through the frame and the crossmember bracket. This should be a simple and solid fix.
Unless others have better ideas, I plan to sleeve and plate the frame from the outside so that I can fasten a bolt all the way through the frame and the crossmember bracket. This should be a simple and solid fix.
Only because you asked
1) The nuts or bolt may still strip
2) drilling more holes in the frame could potentially weaken it
3) The frame & crossmember will be under constant pressure/ tension.
I would think adding a 1/8" plate to each side of the frame would be a better solution, adding strength to the frame and mounting point.
I would Part it out . and take a Cruise 
.
.
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #1,449
Good idea.
I have a Oldsmobile and 2 cords of wood i will trade you . Olds Had new paint and Engine in 76 .
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
Will you part out the winch?
Ok Seriously...
If I'm understanding the situation correctly, the part that is "too short" is the rear lower link mount?
I don't think you want that tension on that part, in that direction. That part is built to definitely take some tension and forces, whatever the links dish out, and if you are trying to pull that part away from the frame with constant tension, you are severely risking some very bad stuff happening if some threads strip.
It needs to be a tight mount. It's amazing what a few half inch bolts can hold, until you ask them to not shear where there is a gap. They bend pretty easily.
If this is what I think it is, I think you might consider lengthening the part and/or allow the part to flex with the frame and/or solidify your frame.
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #1,452
Has the Olds been sitting outside with a hood up for 40 years?
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #1,453
I am upgrading to (8) 5/8 bolts and I will weld sleeves through the frame, then add a 3/16 plate over the outside.
It has a nice Patina .
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #1,455
It sounds like a gem. I’m not sure that I can afford the difference.
I know what i have . Just ready for a change and thinking a Jeep like yours would be fun for some mud bogs
My buddy has a Roxor Mahindra I think its the same as what you have .
Definitely best to put it back in, tighten it down, then weld in place. Will have way less deflection.
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #1,459
I can’t weld the crossmember back in because I won’t be able to get the transfer case out without removing the crossmember, removing the engine, or removing the body. I also can’t reach the front side of the crossmember to get a proper weld as the transfer case is in the way. Believe me, I really considered welding it back in but that would make for a very interesting fix on the trail if I ever needed to remove the transfer case.
I have considered welding in a secondary cross member further back, but it would need to go above all of the links and I’m just not sure that there is room for that. Either way, I will need to get the four link cross member back up in place before I can assess what needs to be done after, if anything. I’m pretty confident that eight 5/8 bolts will hold this thing together. I’ll go up to 1 inch if I need to.
Similar threads
