Builds Stretched 1-Ton FJ40 (3 Viewers)

[Mike Shull]

That is enough for one weekend. The left axle shaft is about two weeks out so I am on to other projects.

 

[Mike Shull]

Here I am in 1998. The paint had just started to fade on the hood.

 

[Mike Shull]

The engine is coming out this weekend!

 

[Mike Shull]

I underestimated my timing. The engine came out before the weekend.

 

[Mike Shull]

Please pass the word. I am looking for a quick sale and I don’t really know what these axles are worth. Give me an offer. 1978 FJ40 Axles with Rear Detroit Locker - auto parts - by owner -... - https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/eastlake-1978-fj40-axles-with-rear/7330920608.html

 

[Mike Shull]

6.2L L92 purchased!

 

[Mike Shull]

I need a poster-sized engine wiring schematic that I can put on my wall. Does anyone have a good source? @matzell , @mr jits, @EWheeler ?

 

[EWheeler]

6.2L L92 purchased!

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Wow, you aren't playing around!

To be honest, I've never played with modifying a factory harness. I put a new harness in my sand car for my LS3, and I bought a stand alone harness for engine only because I don't need any of the controls for the auto. Are you using the auto transmission? If not, a stand alone harness will save you a ton of time, and they look super clean.

 

[Mike Shull]

It’s getting real, Evan! I might save some time and purchase a harness from Howell Engineering. The harness on this engine is very clean and it appears to have exactly what I need minus the wiring for the auto, which I would need to delete. I am going with an NV4500.

 

[mr jits]

I need a poster-sized engine wiring schematic that I can put on my wall. Does anyone have a good source? @matzell , @mr jits, @EWheeler ?

I completely rewired mine with a painless harness and PSI engine harness/ECM. If I were to do it again, I'd rewire every circuit by hand utilizing BlueSea fuse blocks and color coded wire. Trying to integrate the landcruiser harness with outside wiring is a pain. I did it once before with a diesel 40 and it was a serious lesson in how Toyota wiring doesn't play well with outside harnesses.

 

[Mike Shull]

Thanks for the feedback, @mr jits. I used Painless fuse blocks on my last iteration and, after 15 years, the internal rubber had melted to the fender. Perhaps that is not the place for a fuse block but I was looking for a better source and I will check out BlueSea.

I am definitely keeping the LC and LS wiring separate with only a few integration points. That’s why I was hoping to find a wiring schematic as I think that I can strip out what I don’t need from the LS wiring and have a good setup?

 

[Mike Shull]

...also, thanks for the PSI source. I have never used them. How is their quality compared to Howell Engineering?

 

[mr jits]

When I'd integrated the factory wiring to the painless harness on the 4bt FJ40, I used the diagrams here on mud and the basic diagram from painless. Being it was a diesel it was straight forward for the engine (one wire), but integrating the factory wiring to the painless harness was a nightmare. Toyota switches ground different circuits from a common source. Exactly the opposite of what a painless harness intends.
I had opportunity to compare the PSI harness side to side with the Howell harness going into my friends c20 build, I thought the PSI product was built out of much more robust wiring and connectors. Also, PSI includes a tune and retune with the sale of one of their ECM's. I found their tune for the 40 on 40's with 5.13's perfect.

 

[Mike Shull]

Back to the axles. I suppose that I should prioritize one thing at a time.

 

[Mike Shull]

Who has installed a Lugnut 4X4 disk brake conversion on a Corporate 14 bolt? I have the SRW axle with C&S hubs and the caliper bracket hits the rotor when positioned with the bend toward the rotor, which is how I interpret the instructions. When flipped towards the pumpkin, the caliper aligns properly but the bracket does not lay flush with the mounting flange. I thought that it simply needed to be tightened, but doing so bent one of the brackets and it pulled the bend into the rotor.

 

[Mike Shull]

The right side fit fine so I think that I was having clearance issues with the left side. I ground the weld out a bit and this is the result. The bracket seems okay though it is close and still at a bit of an angle.

 

[Mike Shull]

The lugnut studs are a bit shallow…

 

[Mike Shull]

Does @matzell, @mr jits and others have a good source for weld on fabrication parts? I am looking for shock mounts and brake tabs. It is amazing how many fabrication shops have popped up.

 

[mr jits]

Other opinions may vary, but I really liked the offerings from ballistic fab. Ruffstuff is great also, but I noticed a lot of extra work using their products.

 

[matzell]

I have used a lot of Ruffstuff parts. Some are universal and you have to grind a little to fit. On the brake brackets, bevel grind the bracket not the weld to make it fit. Plenty of metal there to take a way and not loose strength.