Builds Stretched 1-Ton FJ40 (4 Viewers)

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What a good feeling! Congrats on another big milestone in the journey Mike.
Thanks, Evan! I’m still shocked that it fired on the first turn of the key, especially considering that I got a few wires in the wrong place initially, which I caught on a final QA check. The engine ran okay considering that one coil pack is damaged and I don’t have the O2 or MAF sensors hooked up. It has some major torque when I bump the throttle!
 
Awesome, man!!! Gotta be a good feeling to hit the key and it lights up!!!!

Did you get any pics of the tank before it went in?
 
Awesome, man!!! Gotta be a good feeling to hit the key and it lights up!!!!

Did you get any pics of the tank before it went in?
Why yes I did. Ha!

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Proportioning Valve and Master
More goodies have arrived. I was planning on using 3/16” brake line since I could only find this proportioning valve with 3/8 fittings (3/16 line size), two separate lines for the front and one dedicated to the rear.

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This is what I ordered for my hard lines. I will probably get my steel braided lines from the Parker Store. This is another area that I am not too familiar with so thanks in advance for the guidance.

 
This is what I ordered for my hard lines. I will probably get my steel braided lines from the Parker Store. This is another area that I am not too familiar with so thanks in advance for the guidance.

Thats what I run, and have run on mulitple rigs for years. Even my heavy 80, never had any issues. Just take your time doing the flares. I was at Hobo Freight this aft, and they have a really slick pliers for bending brake line. Just stumbled across it wandering the aisles, so cant give a review yet, but it sure works like its gonna be a great addition to the brake line tools.

 
Thats what I run, and have run on mulitple rigs for years. Even my heavy 80, never had any issues. Just take your time doing the flares. I was at Hobo Freight this aft, and they have a really slick pliers for bending brake line. Just stumbled across it wandering the aisles, so cant give a review yet, but it sure works like its gonna be a great addition to the brake line tools.

Those are neat pliers. Let me know how they work out. I added these pliers to my order from earlier this week. It seems better than bending the tube around pipe, which is how I formed my clutch line. I don’t know why I do stuff like that—skimp on tools when I spent more than I’d like to admit on bump stops. Ha.


I also ordered this flaring tool. I have one but it’s very old and it never created great flares. I’ll probably redo my clutch line.


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I may have doubled down on catching the Cruiser bug this spring and I can’t seem to overcome it.

More parts came today. The Toyota to GM brake master cylinder adapter is from Trail Gear and it looks perfect!


Doorman M98953 master cylinder. 1.313” bore.

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I may have doubled down on catching the Cruiser bug this spring and I can’t seem to overcome it.

More parts came today. The Toyota to GM brake master cylinder adapter is from Trail Gear and it looks perfect!


Doorman M98953 master cylinder. 1.313” bore.

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You still feel the need for a proportioning balfe with a modern master cylinder?
Trying to figure some of this out as well for my build.
 
You still feel the need for a proportioning balfe with a modern master cylinder?
Trying to figure some of this out as well for my build.
I have 4 wheel disk brakes so I’m pretty confident that I’ll need to reduce the pressure to the rear. This master cylinder is also from the same era as my Cruiser (74-83), and I’d think that it came with a proportioning valve stock as the 40 came with, even with drums in the rear.
 
I have 4 wheel disk brakes so I’m pretty confident that I’ll need to reduce the pressure to the rear. This master cylinder is also from the same era as my Cruiser (74-83), and I’d think that it came with a proportioning valve stock as the 40 came with, even with drums in the rear.
Gotcha, thanks.
I have no experience setting one up from scratch, but need to learn.
I did convert my rear D60 to disk, and was hoping to not mess with a proportioning valve.
 

I’d recommend one. It’s really no big deal to add one and you will really want it in an emergency. You don’t want that rear end coming around in a hard braking situation. The rear should be 40% of the braking power to prevent it from wanting to walk around the front.
 
Youre planning on an adjustable proportioning valve aren't you? I've got a Wilwood similar to this one:

 

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