Builds Stretched 1-Ton FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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I ordered drive shafts today and they shipped already so it might be soon! I also emailed the radiator company today. No reply yet.
Nice. Driveshafts definitely required, but you can do a burnout without a radiator!
 
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When I was looking into aluminum fuel tanks the manufacture sites said that hard mount flanges where only for mock-up, along with most forums on the subject said with aluminum tank you have to use a system that holds the tank in place without hard mount points, as over time said points will crack the tank... (To be clear I have no real world experience with said). When building my tanks I went out of the way to build the vehicle and tanks with a way to accommodate this, ur tank builder does seem concerned with this or they just built what u asked for... To those with more exp is this a non issue and a waste time and effort?
 
When I was looking into aluminum fuel tanks the manufacture sites said that hard mount flanges where only for mock-up, along with most forums on the subject said with aluminum tank you have to use a system that holds the tank in place without hard mount points, as over time said points will crack the tank... (To be clear I have no real world experience with said). When building my tanks I went out of the way to build the vehicle and tanks with a way to accommodate this, ur tank builder does seem concerned with this or they just built what u asked for... To those with more exp is this a non issue and a waste time and effort?
Definitely not a non-issue. Aluminum lacks ductility (the ability to flex/bend and return to it's original shape without changes in the grain structure) and it fatigues and cracks much faster & quicker than steel. I would belly strap/hang any aluminum fluid tank as primary support personally. I don't mean to throw Mike into a panic. The mounts on his tank look stout, and it is likely the tank itself is thicker than most of your common cheap fuel cells you see on the market, but its still aluminum. You also have the heat affected zone at the weld which becomes brittle and that accelerates the fatigue failure even more.
 
Good points on the tank. I did not design the mounts. They did this per their standard process. The tank is built out of 1/8” aluminum with an additional 1/8” plate over the areas where the mounts are attached. The mounts aren’t actually directly attached to the tank itself.

They seemed very confident in the design. I only know one way to see if it works and that is to test it, which is one reason why I plan to take local trips during the first year. Who knows what will hold up and what will need to be reconfigured. I didn’t use engineering plans to build it.
 
Drive Shafts
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Great news! The front drive shaft clears the oil pan!!! I still would rather having more of the actual pieces present while fabricating the suspension but it looks like pvc pipe, styrofoam mockups and 2x4 lumber simulated the fitment well.

My 2.5 ton jack is maxed out, and don’t look too closely at the precariously stacked lumber. My suspension had 7” of droop to go but I’m confident that my clearance is good.

The first picture is full droop. The other three are partially articulated up on the right side.

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I wet sanded and buffed the hood yesterday. It will need to be reshot but it will be okay for awhile.

I am working remotely with the tuner today and I have reconfigured my MAF sensor wiring per schematics for a 2010 Camaro ls3, which matches my tune and the card style MAF that I used. With the outside of my intake reading 77°F with an infrared thermometer, on my engine scanner I am getting 82°F intake air temperature with this configuration as opposed to 104°F with the factory 2008 L 92 configuration. My airflow is reading 7.75 g/s @idle as opposed to 0.04. I believe that I am now wired correctly however it runs even worse. Check out these videos:





I am wondering if the tune needs further adjustment to accommodate the 4” intake but it seems like it should be fine. I’ll report back my progress and any ideas for what to look for would be appreciated.
 
I replaced the MAF sensor today with the factory sensor for a 2008 and it cleared the codes! I also found a free exhaust system on the side of the road and cobble together a y pipe, which should suffice for a while.



Yes, that is a garden hose in the engine. Still no word on the radiator.

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Update: I’ve been driving the Cruiser around the block. The garden hose doesn’t reach that far so I fill up to the water pump and go before it hits 195° and the thermostat opens. Ha.

The gear ratios are awesome! It crawls!!! The LS tune is great, too. There is absolutely zero throttle surge under load like I have experienced with the TBI Vortec or Edelbrock performer/Howell EFI kits. It’s just like expected. The load bogs down the engine and the ECM doesn’t compensate by throttling up, plus the engine stays running until about 150 rpm, which is also impressive. It’s hard to stall with the gears until the brakes are applied. The brakes work VERY well. They feel normal and have incredible stopping power. Step down halfway and the engine stalls immediately.

The parking brake works, too, which is an amazing win from stock for those familiar with the original transfer case brake. I need to tighten this up now that everything is braking in but there is plenty of leverage from that Lokar lever to apply the parking brakes on the C14 axle, and they, too, will stall the engine…in 1st gear lo/lo!
 
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