Builds Stretched 1-Ton FJ40 (4 Viewers)

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DUH!!!! I knew I saw that somewhere, should have known better.... been a long Friday evening.... :rofl: :beer: :rofl:
Thank you for looking out for me! There are so many things to consider and you never know what you are missing until either someone says something or you learn the hard way. I don’t like learning the hard way.
 
Engine troubles. I replaced a broken coil, installed my MAF and O2 sensors. It runs like a champ for 10-30 seconds, then the engine revs on its own, then stumbles and the computer disables the throttle. Sometimes it will run for a minute, and it will let me rev it once. When it lets me rev it, it has some serious throttle response. It’s going to be fast. But it stumbles within seconds of revving the engine.

I found a broken throttle body connector and I have one coming. It looks like it’s still seating properly but I’ll fix that before moving on to other things. I also installed a plug at the firewall for the accelerator pedal so I’m going to check that connection. Other thoughts?



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Looks like the maf & throttle position are either not agreeing or are failed. Did you have a look at the maf sensor & wire clip ? I think the drive by wire throttle can be zero'd/calibrated. This may sound stupid but did they put a drive by cable or drive by wire tune on the ecm ?
 
Looks like the maf & throttle position are either not agreeing or are failed. Did you have a look at the maf sensor & wire clip ? I think the drive by wire throttle can be zero'd/calibrated. This may sound stupid but did they put a drive by cable or drive by wire tune on the ecm ?
Hi. It has DBW programmed and the pedal moves the throttle body blade. Oddly my ACC shows 28% at idle so I need to see what is going on there. Given this reading, my idle is around 500 rpms and the throttle blade is closed.

The MAF wiring looks intact and the clip looks good. I’ve got power there, too. I didn’t dig any deeper to see if I have power at the MAP.

The conflict seems to be between the MAP, MAF and ACC. I did about 10 minutes of research (lol, I was more excited to work on the brakes) and it seems like one cause for that is a load on the engine that conflicts with the ACC position and the MAF reading (I.e. it’s sensing a load that doesn’t agree with the amount of air and throttle given). While I was driving to work this morning I realized that I forgot to plug the purge valve vacuum line. Could it be that simple? It seems so minor to cause such a rough problem but I’ll have a look at it this weekend.
 
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You’ve been doing work on this build. Nice build. I like the frombe steering arms. I’ve been running the Reid outer for yrs on my car have thoroughly punished them and they’ve held up great.
 
Thanks, @Stompyou ! It’s been a labor of love and I am very excited to tie down a 5 gallon bucket inside and take it for a spin around the block. I am looking forward to seeing your build progress.

Those are Artec arms on Reid outers. @matzell recommended the arms to me and I am very happy with them. I didn’t have a lot of space to work with once I stuffed this axle underneath and those arms fit perfectly in the space.
 
This is what I ordered for my hard lines. I will probably get my steel braided lines from the Parker Store. This is another area that I am not too familiar with so thanks in advance for the guidance.

I usually use stainless steel tubingon all my builds. It's a bit more expensive than what you're using . Looks very clean and they resist salt and other corosive agents and rust. Since yours are coated ,i giess yhey work as well at a great price too !
 
I usually use stainless steel tubingon all my builds. It's a bit more expensive than what you're using . Looks very clean and they resist salt and other corosive agents and rust. Since yours are coated ,i giess yhey work as well at a great price too !
What size line do you normally use? I wasn’t going for the economy route and I might change direction as the coating scratches easily.
 

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