Build Stretched 1-Ton FJ40

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Do your Chevy calipers look like this?
IMG_0563.webp

We talked about making longer levers there to get more force, but I had to adapt the 40 cable to the Chevy kits cables so I made this lever.
IMG_0566.webp

The lever under the dash has enough throw with it attached in the top hole and the brake cables attached to the bottom hole to get the brakes to hold some but not trustworthy. I’m not sure I can get any brake setup that will kill this engine in 3rd.

I know, I know, maybe roll bars sway bars would help.
 
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Ditcherman said:
Do your Chevy calipers look like this?
View attachment 3977445
We talked about making longer levers there to get more force, but I had to adapt the 40 cable to the Chevy kits cables so I made this lever.
View attachment 3977453
The lever under the dash has enough throw with it attached in the top hole and the brake cables attached to the bottom hole to get the brakes to hold some but not trustworthy. I’m not sure I can get any brake setup that will kill this engine in 3rd.

I know, I know, maybe roll bars would help.
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I think that you meant sway bars. Your roll bar is beautiful.

Yes, my calipers look exactly like yours and I also had a lever like what you made but I removed the lever because my old handle didn’t have enough throw to work the lever. It only had 5 clicks. I removed the lever brackets as it was in the way because I had to move my cable mounts around.

I made a longer lever for the caliper and I was able to increase the holding strength. I am planning to try that again but with a more durable design.
 
Mike Shull said:
I think that you meant sway bars. Your roll bar is beautiful.

Yes, my calipers look exactly like yours and I also had a lever like what you made but I removed the lever because my old handle didn’t have enough throw to work the lever. It only had 5 clicks. I removed the lever brackets as it was in the way because I had to move my cable mounts around.

I made a longer lever for the caliper and I was able to increase the holding strength. I am planning to try that again but with a more durable design.
Click to expand...
Roll bar, duh, fixed thanks. See, I already forgot what you told me to do.

I did not realize you had had a lever under there.
I was surprised the stock under-dash pull handle on mine would even begin to work.
I did discover that there are two different (at least) under-dash type pull handles. The one on my shelf has a second leverage point, but would be less cable travel. I wanted to put it on but it would have taken more mods to the firewall I believe. The one in it fits the ‘73. Just hope I don’t have to go to the 60 handle on the tunnel.
 
Ditcherman said:
Roll bar, duh, fixed thanks. See, I already forgot what you told me to do.

I did not realize you had had a lever under there.
I was surprised the stock under-dash pull handle on mine would even begin to work.
I did discover that there are two different (at least) under-dash type pull handles. The one on my shelf has a second leverage point, but would be less cable travel. I wanted to put it on but it would have taken more mods to the firewall I believe. The one in it fits the ‘73. Just hope I don’t have to go to the 60 handle on the tunnel.
Click to expand...
I initially started out with my original pull handle under the dash and it didn’t engage the brakes at all. I am impressed that you are able to get that much leverage out of your pull handle. Perhaps you’re stronger than me, which is a note to self to ease up on the sway bar heckling.
 
Mike Shull said:
I initially started out with my original pull handle under the dash and it didn’t engage the brakes at all. I am impressed that you are able to get that much leverage out of your pull handle. Perhaps you’re stronger than me, which is a note to self to ease up on the sway bar heckling.
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Oh no, heckle on.
Like I said, the pull handle is not quite working yet, at least to pass tech.
 
Moving from Blackknights thread…
Search for HDPE plastic if the other doesn’t get you anywhere. I got mine from Amazon.

I use it on top of the bumper, as a non-squeaky rest/pinch point between my swing out bar and the bumper. There’s no give to it though, it’s not soft, and we were talking about allowing movement at the top latch.
 
Ditcherman said:
Moving from Blackknights thread…
Search for HDPE plastic if the other doesn’t get you anywhere. I got mine from Amazon.

I use it on top of the bumper, as a non-squeaky rest/pinch point between my swing out bar and the bumper. There’s no give to it though, it’s not soft, and we were talking about allowing movement at the top latch.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I’ll check that out. I think that will work out well for my lower bar. I might have a rubber body mount that I can try for the top mount. I might experiment with this over the weekend.
 
I’ve driven the Cruiser 4k miles this year and everything has been working perfectly! I haven’t done any work to it since June when I reworked my main power circuit and that has been working fine since. I will park it for a bit while I send my Dakota Digital control box in for some work to the range settings.

Here is a clip from yesterday of the Cruiser on Rollins Pass:

 
I didn't route my front air line inside of the differential cover correctly and the ring gear grabbed and broke the line. Parts are on the way. I also sent my gauge control box to Dakota Digital for warranty.

P.S. I didn't know that we could upload GIFs. You can feel the pain that I was going through...I'll be back to try this trail again.
Broken ARB Air Line.gif


Broken ARB Air Locker Copper Tube.webp


Broken ARB Air Locker Copper Tube(1).webp
 
Mike Shull said:
I didn't route my front air line inside of the differential cover correctly and the ring gear grabbed and broke the line. Parts are on the way. I also sent my gauge control box to Dakota Digital for warranty.

P.S. I didn't know that we could upload GIFs. You can feel the pain that I was going through...I'll be back to try this trail again.
View attachment 4018251

View attachment 4018252

View attachment 4018253
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Super bummer. Are you able to repair that without removing the carrier?
 
EWheeler said:
Super bummer. Are you able to repair that without removing the carrier?
Click to expand...
I hope so. I have a splice kit coming from ARB that should be here by the end of the week. It looks like the line to the carrier is still intact and I was able to get the locker to engage once I cut the broken line off. I won’t know if it’s leaking at the carrier until I get solid connection to the broken line.
 
Mike Shull said:
I hope so. I have a splice kit coming from ARB that should be here by the end of the week. It looks like the line to the carrier is still intact and I was able to get the locker to engage once I cut the broken line off. I won’t know if it’s leaking at the carrier until I get solid connection to the broken line.
Click to expand...
Our first attempt on my D60 rear resulted in a pinched line. I looked at those splice kits and decided the real estate they took up was just too much and it’d be even harder to put back without incident with a splice kit, due to where mine was pinched. But I was pulling my stuff out anyway to reset the pinion preload, so that made it a little easier decision.
You might be able to fish a new line in there if you wanted.
 
I’m pulling together a list for 2026! My plan is to have all of this done by June. I don’t think that another project is in the cards until this list is knocked out and I regain normal breathing and heart function from the expense and inflicted pain. That FJ45 wagon project might have to wait.

IMG_3861.webp
 
It really is overwhelming when you think about what cumulatively goes into a rig before its done. You havent really even started outfitting yet with tools, acc., awnings, you know all the doo-dads that get added. Should name it Never-done.
 
peesalot said:
It really is overwhelming when you think about what cumulatively goes into a rig before its done. You havent really even started outfitting yet with tools, acc., awnings, you know all the doo-dads that get added. Should name it Never-done.
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I don’t need all of those doo-dads. I have a big hat. ☺️
 
Hi there. Yeah. I pushed them all the way through the frame. I essentially cut the frame entirely and meshed the frame notch with the inner frame rail, the. I built a c-channel for behind the notch to box around the notch. I wouldn’t do this again though it has held up and is extremely strong. It will pull a 3500 lb trailer and it hasn’t cracked or twisted yet.
peesalot said:
do you recall how far you pushed the rear towers in beyond the inner edge of frame ?
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