A10Driver
SILVER Star
Nothing wrong with those, upside down is a bitch.
Builds The LF40 Wheeler Build - Twin Turbo & 8 Speed Auto FJ40 (17 Viewers)
- Thread starter DangerNoodle
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #622
Trans/Toybox skid gusseted and fully welded.
Tcase skid folded out of 1/4 plate.
Test fit.
Welded up.
Tcase skid folded out of 1/4 plate.
Test fit.
Welded up.
- Thread starter
- #623
Test fit again.
Front mount welded on. I wanted these skids to be 100% removable if needed.
Back armor welded up, weld nuts attached.
Drain plug hole plasma'd out.
Reinstalled.
Front mount welded on. I wanted these skids to be 100% removable if needed.
Back armor welded up, weld nuts attached.
Drain plug hole plasma'd out.
Reinstalled.
- Thread starter
- #624
Flange clearange is good.
18.5" clearance to the bottom of the skid. Not the best, but I can jack everything up from it with minimal flexing, so I'm not too worried dragging it around on the rocks.
18.5" clearance to the bottom of the skid. Not the best, but I can jack everything up from it with minimal flexing, so I'm not too worried dragging it around on the rocks.
Build is looking good DJ. Once I'm done with my project, I will definitely be cruising over to your shop to check it out. Gotta get that catalytic converter protected from the scratchy peoples 
- Thread starter
- #626
Build is looking good DJ. Once I'm done with my project, I will definitely be cruising over to your shop to check it out. Gotta get that catalytic converter protected from the scratchy peoples
What? That diesel would sound good straight piped.
- Thread starter
- #627
I got the brake master mounted up, and a bracket for the proportioning valve made up. I know the valve probably is not 100% necessary, but I want to be able to have control of it.
Bracket.
Proportioning valve.
Brake lines.
I did the big stupid. I thought the plugs that came in the master would be tight enough to bench bleed the master and keep it from leaking, but no such luck. I need to drain the master now.
Anways, last line finished.
Does anyone know if this is the proper routing for the master cylinder? What is the front and rear output?
Anyways, I got the defrost vents mounted as well.
Bracket.
Proportioning valve.
Brake lines.
I did the big stupid. I thought the plugs that came in the master would be tight enough to bench bleed the master and keep it from leaking, but no such luck. I need to drain the master now.
Anways, last line finished.
Does anyone know if this is the proper routing for the master cylinder? What is the front and rear output?
Anyways, I got the defrost vents mounted as well.
- Thread starter
- #628
Clutch line. It's pretty meh. I may end up changing it out.
My grommets from Cruiser Corp finally came in, so I pulled my wires through the firewall.
Much nicer.
Finally getting around to the rear brakes.
This will add +10 hp, right?
My grommets from Cruiser Corp finally came in, so I pulled my wires through the firewall.
Much nicer.
Finally getting around to the rear brakes.
This will add +10 hp, right?
You're going to want a flex section in that line. Otherwise be ready for fatigue failure. Don't worry too much about line expansion in a flexible ss line or hose on a clutch.
Mike
- Thread starter
- #630
I'm eventually going to get around to that. Those lines are like 6 bucks each, so I'm not too worried about having to deal with it for now. I mainly want to get this thing moving, then improve. I'd really like to go stainless for all my flex lines, so I'll have to see if a hydraulic shop can make those up.
I made a -3an adapter for both ends and use a universal ss line.
I've had a few hard clutch lines fail even with a flex section in there. The flex has to go right off the slave and then the hard line needs to be fixed to the chassis. Or just a full ss line works well.
One time I almost took out my dad's garage door with a failure! Another time I was way out in th desert.
Just don't forget about it! It will bite you if you do haha
Mike
- Thread starter
- #632
I guess I need to find a way to get the slave to seal, and I can do AN. The slave threads are stupid deep and a pain to seal.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 484
- Messages
- 14,279
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
In December I had a stainless clutch hose fail on the trail from being too close to my exhaust without any kind of protection, and I used steel the brake line from my rear axle as a trail fix like you have that. I left it like that and actually just fixed it correctly this morning. So it will work but I would just do it correctly now.
I had previously had a custom hose made but my hose supplier told be they couldn't get M10 fittings any more (??) so I just got adapters to 3AN and a universal pre-made 3AN hose. I haven't bleed it yet but this adapter seemed to bottom out correctly on the flare even with the deep slave cylinder threads. Two-pack so you get one for each side. And this braided line is pretty nice and available in a bunch of lengths.
Amazon product ASIN B07X8YLVRB
Amazon product ASIN B00F9XLRBE
I had previously had a custom hose made but my hose supplier told be they couldn't get M10 fittings any more (??) so I just got adapters to 3AN and a universal pre-made 3AN hose. I haven't bleed it yet but this adapter seemed to bottom out correctly on the flare even with the deep slave cylinder threads. Two-pack so you get one for each side. And this braided line is pretty nice and available in a bunch of lengths.
Amazon product ASIN B07X8YLVRB
Amazon product ASIN B00F9XLRBE
- Thread starter
- #634
Thats basically what I just got. I'm hoping the threads are deep enough for the slave, or I may just need to toss in a crush washer as well.
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 484
- Messages
- 14,279
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
That won't work. It's a inverted flare that does the sealing on cruiser slave cylinders, not a washer.
- Thread starter
- #636
My Coilovers are supposed to be here tomorrow. Exciting! Still missing springs, but I can work with that. The Hellfire Fab guys are hoping to have a knuckle set for me within the next couple of weeks, so I should be able to get this thing ready for exhaust and driveshafts.
- Thread starter
- #637
That's what I was finding that some of the kits have done. People toss in a copper crush washer to take up the space between the flare and the fitting. I'm hoping I don't need to do that, though.
One other suggestion I might have is to try not to block too much of the air flow over the transfer case.
It's hard to tell from your pictures, but these transfer cases do not run the output straight through and between that and the tapered roller setup they tend to generate a bit of heat while they are running down the road at freeway speed in 2wd.
I'm not sure what it looks like when you're done with that skid setup, or what your over the road plans look like but its something to keep in mind.
If you are interested in monitoring these gear boxes with what you have created you can get a pack of these to monitor the maximum skin temperature:
It's not a bad idea while the cases are nice and clean and easy to adhere to.
That way you can be made aware of any issues down the road in time to make some changes before you damage anything.
Mike
It's hard to tell from your pictures, but these transfer cases do not run the output straight through and between that and the tapered roller setup they tend to generate a bit of heat while they are running down the road at freeway speed in 2wd.
I'm not sure what it looks like when you're done with that skid setup, or what your over the road plans look like but its something to keep in mind.
If you are interested in monitoring these gear boxes with what you have created you can get a pack of these to monitor the maximum skin temperature:
It's not a bad idea while the cases are nice and clean and easy to adhere to.
That way you can be made aware of any issues down the road in time to make some changes before you damage anything.
Mike
- Thread starter
- #639
The sides are pretty open, and there is pretty good room around the cases for air to flow. I do have a second Dakoda Digital temp sensor and BIM I could install. Do you think it would be worth using the Toybox drain as a temp plug? I think I may have a fitting that would work.
- Thread starter
- #640
Also, @Godfather90 , are you back to your rig yet? I would love to know how long your rear driveshaft is to compare. I haven't seen any other 40's with the 5 speed+toybox.
