Builds The LF40 Wheeler Build - Twin Turbo & 8 Speed Auto FJ40 (7 Viewers)

[MOTOV8R]

Are you going to point the diff at the tcase and run a DC shaft?

 

[DangerNoodle]

Are you going to point the diff at the tcase and run a DC shaft?

Yep. I need to, as there is about a 2" offset between the t-case and diff.

 

[A10Driver]

Definitely move your axle back as far as you can, especially if you are raising the engine and tranny. 17 is scary short, any way you can go forward with engine?

 

[DangerNoodle]

Definitely move your axle back as far as you can, especially if you are raising the engine and tranny. 17 is scary short, any way you can go forward with engine?

Nope. It's about as far forward as possible. 17 is pretty dang short.

 

[A10Driver]

Nope. It's about as far forward as possible. 17 is pretty dang short.

How far back have you moved it so far?

 

[A10Driver]

I moved mine back 7"

 

[DangerNoodle]

I moved mine back 7"View attachment 2549064

I'll probably push mine back another inch or two. I can go back at least 3 without having to move any mounts, but then I would need to redo fenders again. I'll see what I can get going. If I could get 19" I would be pretty happy.

 

[DangerNoodle]

How far back have you moved it so far?

Probably about 5-6" right now. Flipped springs and then moved mounts back.

 

[DangerNoodle]

I will probably need to redo the openings if I push it back any farther.

 

[A10Driver]

I will probably need to redo the openings if I push it back any farther.
View attachment 2549080

Yeah, it looks good where u have it. But I think you may have to comp cut the back. I guess you can run it and if you have issues move it back and cut more out. Have you thought about running longer leafs. I used tahoe and they are awesome as far as flex goes

 

[DangerNoodle]

Yeah, it looks good where u have it. But I think you may have to comp cut the back. I guess you can run it and if you have issues move it back and cut more out. Have you thought about running longer leafs. I used tahoe and they are awesome as far as flex goes

That's kinda what I am thinking. This is mostly going to be a trailer queen, so I'm not too worried about driveline vibrations at speed. As long as I can get enough slip yoke to keep everything happy, I'll be good.

 

[DangerNoodle]

Also, what size tires are you running? 40s?

 

[A10Driver]

Also, what size tires are you running? 40s?

I'm running 37s

 

[DangerNoodle]

I'm running 37s

You seem to have your axle farther forward than me. It looks like we have a really similar comp cut, though. I like how centered your tire is within the fender well.

 

[A10Driver]

You seem to have your axle farther forward than me. It looks like we have a really similar comp cut, though. I like how centered your tire is within the fender well.

I went and looked at it again, I am 6"s back. But my driveshaft is 32"s long with no doubler. Who do you have making your shaft? Modified toyota, or custom?

 

[DangerNoodle]

I went and looked at it again, I am 6"s back. But my driveshaft is 32"s long with no doubler. Who do you have making your shaft? Modified toyota, or custom?

I think it is going to be custom with a mix of toyota in it. Do you have the H42 or H55 in front of that split case?

 

[A10Driver]

I think it is going to be custom with a mix of toyota in it. Do you have the H42 or H55 in front of that split case?

H42

 

[cruisermatt]

Woah! You actually got the Toybox mated to the NV. Nice.
But now you are seeing the problems with duals/doublers. They're long.
If it's going to be on a trailer why didn't you just use the SM465

If you 4-link it and move that axle like a foot back, it won't need to be a trailer queen because you'll be able to get a 30-32" driveshaft in there
If you are going to stick with what you got and keep it short use the late-model U-joints, they have the same 4-bolt flanges as all the 60/80 stuff but have way more operating angle then the 40/60/80 Cruiser joints.
They're a little smaller but seem to be just as strong. I'm running them

Also, don't be afraid to make your own front driveshaft. Maybe the rear too, it probably won't even need to be balanced being that short!

 

[DangerNoodle]

Woah! You actually got the Toybox mated to the NV. Nice.
But now you are seeing the problems with duals/doublers. They're long.
If it's going to be on a trailer why didn't you just use the SM465

If you 4-link it and move that axle like a foot back, it won't need to be a trailer queen because you'll be able to get a 30-32" driveshaft in there
If you are going to stick with what you got and keep it short use the late-model U-joints, they have the same 4-bolt flanges as all the 60/80 stuff but have way more operating angle then the 40/60/80 Cruiser joints.
They're a little smaller but seem to be just as strong. I'm running them

Also, don't be afraid to make your own front driveshaft. Maybe the rear too, it probably won't even need to be balanced being that short!

The next big thing this is probably going to get would be a 10" stretch, but that will be a long time from now.

 

[Godfather90]

I got the machined adapter plates back today, so that is what I am working on.

View attachment 2548597

View attachment 2548596

The machinist made an alignment pin to keep everything concentric and aligned when machining. The tolerances are great, so it should be pretty well aligned. @Godfather90 , have an opinions on it?

View attachment 2548599

He lathed down the 10 spline shaft, so it has the 2 5/8 stickout of the original SM.

View attachment 2548598

I dumped a bunch of RTV between the plates, and am letting it cure before tighenting it down all the way.

View attachment 2548600

Anyways, I should be putting this in the truck today.

Looks awesome!

Does it have pins to keep it concentric? Good idea making a jig to keep it aligned when machining!

You ended up running that bearing?

Where there's a will there's a way!

Ill have to measure my stuff when I get back. will be interesting to see how they compare!

Mike