Build The LF40 Wheeler Build - Twin Turbo & 8 Speed Auto FJ40
- Thread starter DangerNoodle
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Just put a tundra diff in the rear like Firemedic is doing. Its just money. You're young, you have lots of time to make more.
- Thread starter
- #1,483
Honestly, I'm not scared of the 9.5" diff. I'm just going to run dana 60 outers and call it good.
The only issue with the 9.5 to D60 is the 9.5 is 30 spline and 60 is 35 spline. So they will have to neck down the axle shafts . The Tundra is 36 spline but same OD as the D60 so not a big deal . With my 9.5 I just run the mini truck spindle and it’s a FF
- Thread starter
- #1,485
My problem is that I don't want to spend the time and money dealing with another air locker and diff. My wheeling style hasn't been eating parts yet, so I'm assuming that I'll be ok. The D60 stuff is alreay in a kit from ruff stuff which just makes it easy. I would totally get a pair of spindles from Front Range if they sold them separately.
I will be firing up the new lathe here soon
- Thread starter
- #1,487
I could probably spin some out, but with that amount of time I'd rather hack them out of my current axle lol.
It looks like Jeff was offering to make you a set. Ha.
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Also, what is your rear driveshaft length flange to flange?
for what it's worth I have never hurt the stock 80 shafts at probably 2500lbs more weight. And been together for a lot longer too, so I dodn't really see the point of the custom unitbearing setup, what's your reasoning for not just doing a centered 80 rear which would just need custom shafts?
just torch the spindles out of your current 80 housing and weld them into a Ruffstuff or Diamond housing.
for what it's worth I have never hurt the stock 80 shafts at probably 2500lbs more weight. And been together for a lot longer too, so I dodn't really see the point of the custom unitbearing setup, what's your reasoning for not just doing a centered 80 rear which would just need custom shafts?
just torch the spindles out of your current 80 housing and weld them into a Ruffstuff or Diamond housing.
- Thread starter
- #1,490
Rear driveshaft length is about 24" right now, iirc. Been a sec since I measured it last.
I just dont really feel like trying to cut those out and hack up a good 80 rear. I definitely could. Not sure how much work it would be to get those to fit a 3.5" housing, but it would be doable.
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- #1,491
I'd take em, lol.
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- #1,492
Been thinking more. @cruisermatt is right, it's really not worth going to D60 outers. Reusing the spindles will save a bunch of money, but will take a bit more time. I'll be upgrading to a chomo axle either way, so that will be the only strength upgrade this rear will get. It's not like it really needs it.
If you want to get really thrifty, buy a 9.5” tundra rear housing and narrow it to your liking with the FJ80 outters. I bought a whole axle housing assembled for $50…. If you cut the ends off right at the weld the housing is ~62”, definitely enough to make it however wide you wanted seeing as WMS of the 80 rear is around 63.5”? Approx 72” WMS width and semi float in factory form
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- #1,494
I'd rather use a good builder housing. I have to pull enough brackets off things at work lol.
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Dude, everything else you do and you don’t want to cut two spindles from a housing? It would take you under two hours. Very few will want your 80 housing with all your brackets welded to it anyways.
- Thread starter
- #1,496
No, i'm fine pulling the spindles. Didn't even think about doing that till you mentioned it though.
I am having similar axle decision dilemmas for my build and have for the most part broken down and sold my 80 axles to likely go with a 14b rear/custom d60 front. But I am still mulling over the Toyota axle options.
Front Range does sell the full float spindle flanges, they are here. Uses mini truck/fj60 front spindles and hubs. I seriously considered just welding those to a ruffstuff housing and calling it good. There's a chance I still might go that route.
One thing I like about the tundra 10.5 is the pinion is pretty close to centered vertically, I am giving that some consideration but have not researched the best solution to the 36 spline shafts like mentioned already. That diff looks huge, though.
Front Range does sell the full float spindle flanges, they are here. Uses mini truck/fj60 front spindles and hubs. I seriously considered just welding those to a ruffstuff housing and calling it good. There's a chance I still might go that route.
One thing I like about the tundra 10.5 is the pinion is pretty close to centered vertically, I am giving that some consideration but have not researched the best solution to the 36 spline shafts like mentioned already. That diff looks huge, though.
If you are wanting to go with a Tundra 10.5 then you will need to use Dana 60 outers . You just use the spindles and wheel hubs and create a FF axle . If you want to use the 9.5 diff then you can use the Mini/40/60 spindles and Ifs wheel hubs and Tundra brakes to create a FF axle . if you use a 14bolt i would say you will want to run at Minimum 40 inch tires they are definitely rock catchers . One of the biggest reaseon to go to a fabricated housing is the strength , a OE axle is paper thin in comparison .
Tire size is also a concern for me with the 14b. Plan is 37s, I would definitely be doing at least the minor shave of not the full shave and grinding down the ring gear. They are also very heavy.
Great. Now you have me thinking about just getting 2 RS housings and using my 9.5 3rds and 60 steering I have laying around.
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- #1,500
If you aren't bouncing tires, the toyota stuff is pretty strong. I've very rarely heard of the 9.5"s breaking, its usually the axle shafts. Dont know what kind of HP you are planning on throwing at these, but it's a lot cheaper to build out toyota stuff than the tons it seems.