Build The LF40 Wheeler Build - Twin Turbo & 8 Speed Auto FJ40

[DirtSniffer]

If you aren't bouncing tires, the toyota stuff is pretty strong. I've very rarely heard of the 9.5"s breaking, its usually the axle shafts. Dont know what kind of HP you are planning on throwing at these, but it's a lot cheaper to build out toyota stuff than the tons it seems.

I'm not a rock bouncer, but my OM606 will probably be putting out around 400hp and 5-600 ft/lb or so. Cost to build seems somewhat comparable seeing as the 14b doesn't really need any upgrading apart from C&C hubs, gears and locker. I've heard they don't like being welded on as much as other housing though which concerns me a bit. Custom 60 housing would be pricey. Well, you've got me thinking again.

 

[DangerNoodle]

Went and got steel, $800 later and I should have enough to finish the cage, center console, and rear bumper.

Made a bit of progress on the cage today.

Slugged the main halo splice.

Bent and fit the front members.

Fit more triangulation and started welding it out.

I'm liking the depth so far. Should fit pretty tightly to the top.

 

[Firemedic831]

I like it. It’s similar to how I did my Samurai

 

[DangerNoodle]

Got a bit done on the cruiser this weekend.

Went on the shop fishing trip, it was cold but fun.

Worked on some other projects, got the rest of the upper main bars in the cage and welded out everything.

Not my best welds, but they are ok.

 

[DangerNoodle]

Pulled the old cage out, the easy way.

Stuck the new cage in. Fits like a glove.

Started making feet for the cage.

 

[Broski]

Pulled the old cage out, the easy way.

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Stuck the new cage in. Fits like a glove.

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Started making feet for the cage.

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Looking really nice DJ

 

[DangerNoodle]

I know this may be a controversial move, but I went with a straight a pillar. One small bend to fit it to the top of the cage, but no walking around the dash. Its by far the strongest way to go in my opinion, gives some of the best window crank clearance I've seen, and has very good windshield and door window visibility. Plus, its really easy. Let me know what you guys think.

Screwing around with reinforcement plans.

And started on gussets. Each pillar will be getting full support to the halo, plus the halo will get a few for mounting purposes.

 

[Broski]

Outstanding fabrication skills !

 

[DangerNoodle]

Outstanding fabrication skills !

Thanks, Richard! Trying to bring the interior up to standard lol.

 

[Firemedic831]

Your workmanship is top notch . and really it does not matter what i think but if it was in mine i would have done the top bars differently and i myself like the A post to bend around the dash as i have a grab handle there .

 

[DangerNoodle]

Your workmanship is top notch . and really it does not matter what i think but if it was in mine i would have done the top bars differently and i myself like the A post to bend around the dash as i have a grab handle there .

I had the same ones, its going up a little higher this time. The fronts may change if thw guys at work bully me enough about it lol. We'll see.

 

[70fj40]

Your fab skills are way beyond anything I could ever dream of so the only thing I can offer is that I’m amazed at your entire build.

 

[DangerNoodle]

I got bullied enough by the shop fellows that things decided to change lol.

Gave an s bend pillar a shot, couldn't quite get the bends I wanted with my bender, so i scrapped that.

Compared to the straight pillar, I like the straight better.

Round 2. More different, moa betta.

I wanted to put a dash bar into this cage, I like the way they look, plus more mounting options for stuff. So, why not integrate a super tight A pillar into the dash bar?

Dash bar and part one of the pillar fit in.

Make a nice teardrop to fit the doors. Loving the look with the doors.

And stick in some upper pillar bars. Those were tough to fit and notch well. Its got about a 75% notch on the dash bar, and the rest will be gusseted in on both ends for full support.

I aligned these to the doors, not the windshield frame, bit it fits super snugly to everything.

Great window crank and windshield knob access. I'm deleting the lower dashpads, so a full dash repaint to come soon.

Overall, I'm loving the look. It's sleek in my eyes, and balances a modern cage design with enough grace to pass on a 40. Now, do I cap the teardrops, or do I leave them open? I could see the look going either way. Gussets will fill out the voids around the dash and the pillars.

 

[Broski]

I guess I’m the minority as I like the straight one better
It’s your rig so your the one that needs to be happy with it.

 

[Firemedic831]

Definitely like the top section more now . The tear drop ahh. going to have to sleep on that and look again . You do have that Oldsmobile engine so i guess you could make your exhaust tips match

 

[DangerNoodle]

Definitely like the top section more now . The tear drop ahh. going to have to sleep on that and look again . You do have that Oldsmobile engine so i guess you could make your exhaust tips match

These are some of the ideas I have bouncing around in my head currently.

Full plate gusset with handle maybe?

Or multipiece gussets with tube cap.

What do you all think would look good?

 

[Firemedic831]

Top one

 

[70fj40]

Full plate gusset.

 

[DangerNoodle]

I guess I’m the minority as I like the straight one better
It’s your rig so your the one that needs to be happy with it.

I really liked the straight one as well. I do like the tighter fitting sections now though. Seems like it was more intentional.

 

[Tank5]

I like the full plate and handle or no handle.