- Thread starter
- #61
Kick vent panels welded back on, cowl dropped in place. Bolted up windshield frame, hood and fenders. Overall panel gaps still look good.
Builds Amateur Franken40 Build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter DirtSniffer
- Start date
-
- Tags
- build build thread fj40
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #62
More pics.
Will need to play with the rockers to get them lined up and looking good so the line flows.
Will need to play with the rockers to get them lined up and looking good so the line flows.
- Thread starter
- #63
Rockers cut and tacked in place, everything looking pretty good so far.
- Thread starter
- #64
FJC is back in street mode, so I threw the wheels on the 40. Will sit a little lower and rear should move back a bit once it has full weight
middlecalf
SILVER Star
Serious bash & bang. Great stuff!
- Thread starter
- #66
Visualizing how I should do the side steps/sliders. Need to decide how I will interface them with the fenders as they sit a little higher than the original side steps.
I kind of like how the seam looks with the 2x6 just butted up to the rocker, but I will likely have to weld the whole length and grind smooth with a radiused flap disk to keep moisture out from between the pieces.
These will mount to the frame like normal sliders and also act as body mounts.
I like how this was done but mine won't stick out quite as far, they will be parallel and even with the rear quarters. May trim the bottom of the fender like this and cut a new radius similar to factory higher up. Also need to relocate the lower fender bolt up about an inch.
I kind of like how the seam looks with the 2x6 just butted up to the rocker, but I will likely have to weld the whole length and grind smooth with a radiused flap disk to keep moisture out from between the pieces.
These will mount to the frame like normal sliders and also act as body mounts.
I like how this was done but mine won't stick out quite as far, they will be parallel and even with the rear quarters. May trim the bottom of the fender like this and cut a new radius similar to factory higher up. Also need to relocate the lower fender bolt up about an inch.
- Thread starter
- #67
First cut attempt. These fenderes aren't that great and I have a set that is a bit better. Final cut will have a piece of edge trim to clean it up and seal up to the step. Wish I had gotten a few extra inches, might use a scrap piece to extend the outside a bit or just go with it.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
Yes on the fill piece.
Great build & thanks for sharing! That's a ton of work but will be totally worth it & look forward to seeing how it all comes together
- Thread starter
- #70
Side steps/ sliders tacked in place. Added on the fill piece, will decide how to trim it up later. Also got the frame tie-in mounts and pads made and bolted up. Used leftover 3x5x1/4 from the center cross member.
- Thread starter
- #71
Also did a test shot of some Ford blue, I like it. Been leaning towards panting with Rust-Oleum farm and implement enamel. These things are basically tractors, afterall... And I'll be able to do touch ups with a rattle can.
- Thread starter
- #72
Body mounts in place, pretty happy with how most of my welds turn out. Like I said, self taught... took some work to get panel gaps right and cowl at correct height.
I will be making 3 passes on these pieces to be safe, but I can jack a wheel off the ground as they are just fine. Using 1/4" plate in place of the uhmw pads until I am done welding as they will melt. Bottom welds will be done when I get it flipped over. Hopefully it won't look like garbage when I'm done welding, haven't done multiple passes much before. I may only add two mounting bolts on the bottoms of the mounts as there are already 2 on top.
I will be making 3 passes on these pieces to be safe, but I can jack a wheel off the ground as they are just fine. Using 1/4" plate in place of the uhmw pads until I am done welding as they will melt. Bottom welds will be done when I get it flipped over. Hopefully it won't look like garbage when I'm done welding, haven't done multiple passes much before. I may only add two mounting bolts on the bottoms of the mounts as there are already 2 on top.
Will there be issues caused by your rock sliders being welded to sheet metal on one end and rigidly attached to a flexible frame on the other? I’m not sure… given most flex will be towards the ends of the frame and I’d think less in the middle.
I’ve got another Frankencruiser… I lost count at about 36 donors. Most of them Toyota inbreeding but some being crossbreeding. I’m paying close attention to the area around the doors as that’ll be one of my next 40 projects. That and the outer 1/4s.
I’ve got another Frankencruiser… I lost count at about 36 donors. Most of them Toyota inbreeding but some being crossbreeding. I’m paying close attention to the area around the doors as that’ll be one of my next 40 projects. That and the outer 1/4s.
- Thread starter
- #74
Between me welding up the bottom seam of the frame, the solid body mounts all around with thick body metal, and a full roll cage tied into the frame, there won't be much frame flex. I'd prefer the suspension to do the flexing, personally even if it means losing some flex. I cringe when I see how much the panel gaps can move when a stock 40 flexes, but haven't really heard of issues from it. We'll see how it works out.
Super impressed with the amount of work you’re putting into that body. I took the easy route with an aqualu 3/4 tub, but I did have to do that A pillar repair. Kind of nerve wracking, but I got it good enough for a driver/wheeler
. I’ve got a question about that vise press you have-
Are you happy with it? I just picked up a 8" vise(total overkill, but it was a deal) and I have a 59 ford that might be super handy for…
. I’ve got a question about that vise press you have-
Are you happy with it? I just picked up a 8" vise(total overkill, but it was a deal) and I have a 59 ford that might be super handy for…
- Thread starter
- #76
Super impressed with the amount of work you’re putting into that body. I took the easy route with an aqualu 3/4 tub, but I did have to do that A pillar repair. Kind of nerve wracking, but I got it good enough for a driver/wheeler
Are you happy with it? I just picked up a 8" vise(total overkill, but it was a deal) and I have a 59 ford that might be super handy for…
Thanks! This one is the Eastwood 4", they also make a 6". They are magnetic and stick on, have removable fingers as well. Super simple and easy to use, that was my first time using it. Way more accurate than I probably could have done on my 18" harbor freight brake. Doesn't take too much effort to make the bend either. I like it, not sure how many other uses I'll have for it on this project but it made the a pillar repair easier and the bend looks exactly the same as the factory bend it mates up to.
- Thread starter
- #77
Not much to update, winter is quickly approaching and have been trying to wrap some other things up before the snow flies. Had to take the top off to squeeze into my garage.
Also dug out the h42/split case I picked up for a good deal a few years ago. It's out of a later 60 and has the extension on the back of the transmission. Not sure if it will cause issues, but at least an h55 would be a direct swap down the road should I want that. Been a while since I read up on it, but I believe the rear disk swap will have provisions for a parking brake. So tcase brake may not be necessary and cross member may or may not have to move.
On a side note, made this mistake of picking up a tractor project of similar vintage to the 40... At the very least, I may get to practice shooting paint on this before doing the 40. Having warpage concerns about welding cold steel in winter, so may spend more time on this for now.
Also dug out the h42/split case I picked up for a good deal a few years ago. It's out of a later 60 and has the extension on the back of the transmission. Not sure if it will cause issues, but at least an h55 would be a direct swap down the road should I want that. Been a while since I read up on it, but I believe the rear disk swap will have provisions for a parking brake. So tcase brake may not be necessary and cross member may or may not have to move.
On a side note, made this mistake of picking up a tractor project of similar vintage to the 40... At the very least, I may get to practice shooting paint on this before doing the 40. Having warpage concerns about welding cold steel in winter, so may spend more time on this for now.
- Thread starter
- #78
Well, I made the mistake of checking the classifieds and bought myself a new distraction that I can actually drive. Promptly ripped off a mud flap getting dragged out of the snow. No lockers or lift, snow at the time had poor traction. Will be a fun overland build. Keeping it simple for now to try and not eat into 40 budget.
- Thread starter
- #79
After a long winter contemplating the build and recent discussions with other members, I have decided in a change of direction for the 40. This will be merging the 40 build with what was going to be my fake 45 build into a stretched 40 on 37s.
Changes:
40 frame stretched 10-12"
Stretch body to match
80 rear axle
80 front axle, or widen 40 axle I already have
High steer
H42 and split case with 4:1 gears
NWF Black Box doubler
Possibly custom Alcan springs, reverse eye SOA with orbit eyes.
I will hopefully be dragging stuff out of storage soon, snow is melting fast here.
Changes:
40 frame stretched 10-12"
Stretch body to match
80 rear axle
80 front axle, or widen 40 axle I already have
High steer
H42 and split case with 4:1 gears
NWF Black Box doubler
Possibly custom Alcan springs, reverse eye SOA with orbit eyes.
I will hopefully be dragging stuff out of storage soon, snow is melting fast here.
- Thread starter
- #80
This is a frame from a '79 that I stretched a few years ago for the 45 before starting the 40. It was stretched to 116" wheelbase using a section of '69 frame that was bent. I would like to redo this and shorten it, I am more of a fan the way @fjdiesel stretched his frame and may attempt the same. This frame was in better shape than the one I currently have under the 40.
