Builds Stretched 1-Ton FJ40 (10 Viewers)

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Shocks are angled back, and the floor was narrowed to make more room. I don't have photos of the notch, If I remember correctly, at the top its 1/2 the depth of the frame, at the bottom, its the full depth. Diameter of the shocks will be important as well. In the back, I started with 60 series axles and 2.5" coil-overs and ended up going to one-tons and 2" coil-overs to make everything clear, and even then, at the very limits everything touches. I have 16" front and back, 2.5" coil-overs in the front, and 2" coil-overs in the back. I can use all of the travel in the back, but the front is limited by the front pinion angle, so I need to adjust some link geometry to make the pinion tilt upwards as it droops. Lots of time in the 4-link calculator, and even then, I am on iteration 2 and there needs to be at least one more.

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Do you happen to have a build tread for this Cruiser? If so, send over a link. I’d like to see what you have done.
 
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Do you happen to have a build tread for this Cruiser? If so, send over a link. I’d like to see what you have done.
No, I don't have a build thread. I didn't take enough photos, and it took me 8 years of working on it on and off.
 
Update: this configuration has clearance issues. I will be redoing the rear shock mounts and I will repost with a new threadmark.

Here are some better pictures of the shock mount placement.

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I had the same thought, as I had to on mine when I did mine. I tilted mine back as well, as I had tire-coilover interference on bump, and coilover-frame interference at full extension.

FYI, I will need to redo my rear shock mounts due to multiple clearance issues. I must have previously checked my up and down travel with the one side at ride height. When cycling both sides in opposing directions at the same time, my mock shock hits the frame (essentially passing clean through it) at full downward travel and the other side hits the tower at full upward travel. These towers are not wide enough and I will need to make something custom, which isn’t a problem now that I have the press brake and tube bender. I might need to modify or redo the lower shock mounts, too. I expect that I will still need to notch the frame though I need to move the mounts first to achieve better geometry to work from. Oops.

I will get this done before finishing the sway bar axle mounts and ordering the fuel tank. Thanks again for noticing this, @DangerNoodle and @mano002.
 
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If I was ever linking a 40 again, this is how I would do it.

Thanks for the reference. I tried to put my rear shock facing forward originally but the tire comes forward and turns slightly inward when it goes up and I was afraid that the tire wouldn’t clear. I might put a pause on the rear until I have the body, tires and coilovers. I am glad that I did the links with the body off but the shock mounts are a little harder to estimate as you know.
 
@DangerNoodle, do you know if the rear frame was moved inward for the rear coilover? It looks like this Cruiser has a lot more space than I have.

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My project. 5.3, NV 4500, Orion. 40 axles. SOA front/4link rear. Going to pick up a rear 80 series FF this Friday. Want to 3 link the front with 60 series. Planning on running 40 maxxis. Always subject to change.

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Only reason to run fj60 axles are for the width, compared to the 40 series. The Birf's of the 60 and 40 are the same size correct.? I have mini birfs in mine. Never broke with 2F and 4.88/ARB's and 36's. Now things are different.
 
Only reason to run fj60 axles are for the width, compared to the 40 series. The Birf's of the 60 and 40 are the same size correct.? I have mini birfs in mine. Never broke with 2F and 4.88/ARB's and 36's. Now things are different.
Correct for the width. you can achieve the same by just going to IFS wheel hubs. or go 60 and then add IFS hubs and get even more
Birfs are the same Mini 40 60. i would suggest going with 30 spline RCV 300m
 

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