Builds Stretched 1-Ton FJ40 (9 Viewers)

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Engine Wiring Diagrams
What harness/comp are you using ?
I am planning to give the stock harness and computer a go. I’ll start breaking down the harness as soon as the rest of the chassis and body wiring is done. I have been reading and listening to videos from Wiring Harness Information - https://www.lt1swap.com/wiringharness.htm.

I’ve also been watching the YouTube videos from Project Rowdy as suggested by @archie73. I’m glad that this suggestion was made awhile back as I am excited to tackle this part.

There are wiring diagrams in the above website and PCM pin description PDFs (as seen in the videos) in the first YouTube video below


 
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I am planning to give the stock harness and computer a go. I’ll start breaking down the harness as soon as the rest of the chassis and body wiring is done. I have been reading and listening to videos from Wiring Harness Information - https://www.lt1swap.com/wiringharness.htm.

I’ve also been watching the YouTube videos from Project Rowdy as suggested by @archie73. I’m glad that this suggestion was made awhile back as I am excited to tackle this part.

There are wiring diagrams in the above website and PCM pin description PDFs (as seen in the videos) in the first YouTube video below



I won’t say it was a quick time pairing down the ls harness, but I glad I did it. When we were on a wheeling trip and I was having issues I knew exactly where to look and wasn’t scared to dive in. Honestly, if I hadn’t paired it down, I might’ve thrown my hands in the air and ordered a new harness. I’ve been loving that motor ever since.

Oh and it was Covid quarantine for me. Nowhere to go. I’ll do it again though, if I ever do another ls.
 
I won’t say it was a quick time pairing down the ls harness, but I glad I did it. When we were on a wheeling trip and I was having issues I knew exactly where to look and wasn’t scared to dive in. Honestly, if I hadn’t paired it down, I might’ve thrown my hands in the air and ordered a new harness. I’ve been loving that motor ever since.

Oh and it was Covid quarantine for me. Nowhere to go. I’ll do it again though, if I ever do another ls.
Yeah, this entire project started as a covid project and I’m still going. Pairing down and lengthening the factory harness was a lot of fun and it was so satisfying when the gauges light up and the appropriate turn signals flashed.

Do you have an automatic or manual transmission? I’m a little concerned with dialing in the idle with my manual transmission.
 
Yeah, this entire project started as a covid project and I’m still going. Pairing down and lengthening the factory harness was a lot of fun and it was so satisfying when the gauges light up and the appropriate turn signals flashed.

Do you have an automatic or manual transmission? I’m a little concerned with dialing in the idle with my manual transmission.
I have an SM465 and no VSS. Idles great, never stumbles. From what I gathered at the time, some ecu’s require it and some don’t. I read a lot of posts on either side, which was a bit daunting. It was actually @cruisermatt that talked my off the ledge. He pointed out that the computer is looking for a signal from anything metal that rotates- driveshaft, brake etc. So I worked up a plan in my head that would do just that and then it didn’t need it. Point is- be prepared, but don’t sweat it until it’s a problem.
 
I have an SM465 and no VSS. Idles great, never stumbles. From what I gathered at the time, some ecu’s require it and some don’t. I read a lot of posts on either side, which was a bit daunting. It was actually @cruisermatt that talked my off the ledge. He pointed out that the computer is looking for a signal from anything metal that rotates- driveshaft, brake etc. So I worked up a plan in my head that would do just that and then it didn’t need it. Point is- be prepared, but don’t sweat it until it’s a problem.
Where did you have your pcm flashed? Did you keep your charcoal canister purge valve?
 
Where did you have your pcm flashed? Did you keep your charcoal canister purge valve?
Semi local guy in Idaho Falls (PowerLabs?)-$75. I looked into it again and his fee structure has changed. But he was quick and when I was fighting a fan issue they looked it over for free. I don’t remember anything about a charcoal purge valve, so must have been deleted.
 
Semi local guy in Idaho Falls (PowerLabs?)-$75. I looked into it again and his fee structure has changed. But he was quick and when I was fighting a fan issue they looked it over for free. I don’t remember anything about a charcoal purge valve, so must have been deleted.
Thanks for the info. I was reading your build thread and I see that you had an idle issue but you must have resolved it when you reworked some of your wiring?

I’m not too concerned though I’ve had idle and surge issues with the TBI/manual swap and I was curious how smooth the LS swap runs. I will most likely be hitting you up for advice in the near future once I start pulling wires.
 
The switch panel is wired! I can’t believe that I spent 5 hours on this.

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What are you doing! Now I feel better. Thanks for the shock. That looks like a lot of work!
running a diff engine, trans, tcase, fuel tanks and pumps (wired said up to switch on the fly between tanks), electric cooling fan, light bar, ARB locker F and R, and a host of other things that require custom wiring to integrate (wired said so they are on/off in key on/off to not accidentally drain the batteries. What you see in the pic is only a piece of the wiring, trying to keep things looking OEM as possible, rewired the engine bay fuse/relay box for my needs and amperage requirements, using Toyota switches to control the ARBs, heated seat, and integrated the dash indicator lights to show when the ARBs or on/off, the Atlas is in rear/front positions, the air compressor is powered and other stuff.
 
running a diff engine, trans, tcase, fuel tanks and pumps (wired said up to switch on the fly between tanks), electric cooling fan, light bar, ARB locker F and R, and a host of other things that require custom wiring to integrate (wired said so they are on/off in key on/off to not accidentally drain the batteries. What you see in the pic is only a piece of the wiring, trying to keep things looking OEM as possible, rewired the engine bay fuse/relay box for my needs and amperage requirements, using Toyota switches to control the ARBs, heated seat, and integrated the dash indicator lights to show when the ARBs or on/off, the Atlas is in rear/front positions, the air compressor is powered and other stuff.
I’m glad that you mentioned your 4x4 lights. I almost forgot to run a wire to my transfer case.
 
That’s enough for now. I still need to add a few more wires for the trailer brakes and radio antenna, etc., but I think that I can sneak them in later. Tomorrow I will pull the trans cover and tighten up a few things, then install for the final time, then I’ll button up the A/C and start working under the hood!

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Small wins this weekend. I did not get to the HVAC, but the cluster is about 80% wired. I had some trouble with the brake warning lights and that set me back a few hours before I decided to stop. I’m not sure why that light doesn’t work but the wires have no ground/power. That’s a problem for another day.

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My favorite feature of the DD gauges is when you use the GPS module for speed, you can display elevation in real time since its using satellites for the speed. It will also display outside air temp with a small included wire thermometer.

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My favorite feature of the DD gauges is when you use the GPS module for speed, you can display elevation in real time since its using satellites for the speed. It will also display outside air temp with a small included wire thermometer.

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Nice! It seems like Dakota Digital doesn’t advertise all of the capabilities as I don’t remember seeing elevation as a feature. I’m already hooked up for an electronic speedometer and my radio came with a GPS antenna so I need to figure out whether the radio can display elevation. I did get the outside temperature module.

Congrats,man ! Anyone who can do woring is a hero in my book . Keep it up ! It's looking realy nice !
Thanks! I didn’t post anything yesterday as my wire trunk that I built for the right side under the dash was too thick and wouldn’t allow enough room for the heater to bolt in. I’ve cut into it for the third or fourth time to relocate the wires…but to where? Ha! I got up early this morning to assess.
 
Yes, there is an app you can download for that, i connected my inreach with the android and the inreach app ( cant remember name) has cool gps, tracking, mapping, shows all kinds of data, topo, etc...
 
Why 🤦🏻‍♂️Why do I look at other builds 😃. And then think I can not live another day without certain parts. Oh why oh why

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Yes, there is an app you can download for that, i connected my inreach with the android and the inreach app ( cant remember name) has cool gps, tracking, mapping, shows all kinds of data, topo, etc...
Does the radio gps antenna wire work with those apps? If so I might toss it up on the roof.
Why 🤦🏻‍♂️Why do I look at other builds 😃. And then think I can not live another day without certain parts. Oh why oh why

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I see that you are showing us the checkout window, and your battery is almost dead so you must have been pondering this for awhile. Ha. Some advice if you are really interested in this cluster (I don’t see why you wouldn’t be. Ha!), these are on a two month back order from Dakota Digital. Summit and Jegs both had them in stock and they are $50 cheaper. Summit had 6 left when I got mine. Just saying.
 

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