Builds Stretched 1-Ton FJ40 (4 Viewers)

[matzell]

The PSC hydraulic assist steering ram and supplies have been ordered.

I was going to put a heat sink fluid cooler under the front bumper but I opted to adapt a thinner transmission cooler that I can strap to the left side of my radiator. I am running out of room and I’d rather not route power steering lines to the rear of the vehicle, or put anything else under the hood unless I can fit something up by the radiator. Feel free to offer any advice as this is one mod that I have never done.

Derale Cooling Products 13311 Derale 7000 Series Tube and Fin Transmission Coolers | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Derale 7000 Series Tube and Fin Transmission Coolers with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Fluid Coolers at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

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I couldn’t get the order for the assist ram to go through on PSC’s website and I found that they had a store on Amazon. I saved $50. I have seen many posts of folks mounting their ram to the diff cover on a Dana 60. I have a Ruffstuff cover that seems stout enough to support that kind of force so this is most likely the route that I will go.

Amazon.com: PSC Motor Sports SC2201K Power Steering Assist Cylinder 1.75 Bore x 8 Stroke x .75 Rod w/Rod Ends And Mount Hardware Power Steering Assist Cylinder : Automotive

Buy PSC Motor Sports SC2201K Power Steering Assist Cylinder 1.75 Bore x 8 Stroke x .75 Rod w/Rod Ends And Mount Hardware Power Steering Assist Cylinder: Power Cylinder Kits - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

a.co

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For my future reference I am linking this Billa Vista how-to article that walks through tapping the Saginaw box for high pressure lines. I am planning to get those hoses locally from the Parker Store and use field serviceable high pressure fittings and make my own lines.

Where to Tap a Saginaw Power Steering Box for Hydro Assist

Where to Tap a Saginaw Power Steering Box for Hydro Assist By BillaVista (actually - all photots are from PBB contributor's - I simply compiled and posted them here) The following are a couple of threads on the PBB Forums regarding Hydro Assist box tapping: pics of taped box...

www.pirate4x4.com

if you mount it there, use a lube locker gasket and lock tight the bolts. they will loosen and leak diff fluid. I would suggets mounting it on the long side tube instead.... and build a little bumper for it out of 1 1/2 .250 dom to protect it.

 

[Mike Shull]

if you mount it there, use a lube locker gasket and lock tight the bolts. they will loosen and leak diff fluid. I would suggets mounting it on the long side tube instead.... and build a little bumper for it out of 1 1/2 .250 dom to protect it.

Good point. I hadn’t thought about that. Thank you for the tip and I will look at packaging it on the other side.

 

[Ditcherman]

The PSC hydraulic assist steering ram and supplies have been ordered.

I was going to put a heat sink fluid cooler under the front bumper but I opted to adapt a thinner transmission cooler that I can strap to the left side of my radiator. I am running out of room and I’d rather not route power steering lines to the rear of the vehicle, or put anything else under the hood unless I can fit something up by the radiator. Feel free to offer any advice as this is one mod that I have never done.

Derale Cooling Products 13311 Derale 7000 Series Tube and Fin Transmission Coolers | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Derale 7000 Series Tube and Fin Transmission Coolers with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Fluid Coolers at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

---

I couldn’t get the order for the assist ram to go through on PSC’s website and I found that they had a store on Amazon. I saved $50. I have seen many posts of folks mounting their ram to the diff cover on a Dana 60. I have a Ruffstuff cover that seems stout enough to support that kind of force so this is most likely the route that I will go.

Amazon.com: PSC Motor Sports SC2201K Power Steering Assist Cylinder 1.75 Bore x 8 Stroke x .75 Rod w/Rod Ends And Mount Hardware Power Steering Assist Cylinder : Automotive

Buy PSC Motor Sports SC2201K Power Steering Assist Cylinder 1.75 Bore x 8 Stroke x .75 Rod w/Rod Ends And Mount Hardware Power Steering Assist Cylinder: Power Cylinder Kits - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

a.co

---

For my future reference I am linking this Billa Vista how-to article that walks through tapping the Saginaw box for high pressure lines. I am planning to get those hoses locally from the Parker Store and use field serviceable high pressure fittings and make my own lines.

Where to Tap a Saginaw Power Steering Box for Hydro Assist

Where to Tap a Saginaw Power Steering Box for Hydro Assist By BillaVista (actually - all photots are from PBB contributor's - I simply compiled and posted them here) The following are a couple of threads on the PBB Forums regarding Hydro Assist box tapping: pics of taped box...

www.pirate4x4.com

I’m no engineer - like I have to say that outloud…- but if we need something like a steering arm to be double sheer to be strong enough, I can’t imagine a diff cover being strong enough or wanting to use it. The things don’t equate to me. But that’s just me.

 

[Mike Shull]

I’m no engineer - like I have to say that outloud…- but if we need something like a steering arm to be double sheer to be strong enough, I can’t imagine a diff cover being strong enough or wanting to use it. The things don’t equate to me. But that’s just me.

That diff cover from RS is pretty stout, but I wasn’t thinking about the hardware holding the cover on, which are probably under enough strain as is. Ha.

I will most likely follow Rob’s advice and attach the ram to the axle tube. Packaging will be tight, which is another good reason for having everything on hand from the start so that I can fit it all together.

 

[FuglyYota]

The PSC hydraulic assist steering ram and supplies have been ordered.

I was going to put a heat sink fluid cooler under the front bumper but I opted to adapt a thinner transmission cooler that I can strap to the left side of my radiator. I am running out of room and I’d rather not route power steering lines to the rear of the vehicle, or put anything else under the hood unless I can fit something up by the radiator. Feel free to offer any advice as this is one mod that I have never done.

Derale Cooling Products 13311 Derale 7000 Series Tube and Fin Transmission Coolers | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Derale 7000 Series Tube and Fin Transmission Coolers with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Fluid Coolers at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

---

I couldn’t get the order for the assist ram to go through on PSC’s website and I found that they had a store on Amazon. I saved $50. I have seen many posts of folks mounting their ram to the diff cover on a Dana 60. I have a Ruffstuff cover that seems stout enough to support that kind of force so this is most likely the route that I will go.

Amazon.com: PSC Motor Sports SC2201K Power Steering Assist Cylinder 1.75 Bore x 8 Stroke x .75 Rod w/Rod Ends And Mount Hardware Power Steering Assist Cylinder : Automotive

Buy PSC Motor Sports SC2201K Power Steering Assist Cylinder 1.75 Bore x 8 Stroke x .75 Rod w/Rod Ends And Mount Hardware Power Steering Assist Cylinder: Power Cylinder Kits - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

a.co

---

For my future reference I am linking this Billa Vista how-to article that walks through tapping the Saginaw box for high pressure lines. I am planning to get those hoses locally from the Parker Store and use field serviceable high pressure fittings and make my own lines.

Where to Tap a Saginaw Power Steering Box for Hydro Assist

Where to Tap a Saginaw Power Steering Box for Hydro Assist By BillaVista (actually - all photots are from PBB contributor's - I simply compiled and posted them here) The following are a couple of threads on the PBB Forums regarding Hydro Assist box tapping: pics of taped box...

www.pirate4x4.com

The BV article is what I used to drill and tap my Saginaw box. I’ll let you know how it worked this weekend after I hook up the ram, I did the drill and tap last weekend.

Yes the RS 3/8” diff covers are plenty stout for the ram. I can’t remember but I think I did that on the D60 on my ‘84 Minitruggy. Use good quality hardware for mounting, you don’t want it to be the failure point.

I also run a tube and fin unit for PS cooling. Put it on the return before the reservoir. Do not use a plate and frame cooler, it will froth the fluid at the pressure and flow of a Saginaw pump and box. I tried using a big oil cooler and it was a mess. Make sure the cooler isn’t higher than the res or when you turn the truck off, the cooler may try to gravity drain into the res and could overflow it.

 

[Mike Shull]

The BV article is what I used to drill and tap my Saginaw box. I’ll let you know how it worked this weekend after I hook up the ram, I did the drill and tap last weekend.

Yes the RS 3/8” diff covers are plenty stout for the ram. I can’t remember but I think I did that on the D60 on my ‘84 Minitruggy. Use good quality hardware for mounting, you don’t want it to be the failure point.

I also run a tube and fin unit for PS cooling. Put it on the return before the reservoir. Do not use a plate and frame cooler, it will froth the fluid at the pressure and flow of a Saginaw pump and box. I tried using a big oil cooler and it was a mess. Make sure the cooler isn’t higher than the res or when you turn the truck off, the cooler may try to gravity drain into the res and could overflow it.

Thanks. It sounds like you have some experience with a few experiments. I was originally thinking that I would run the following tube and fin vertically with the hose fittings facing down so that it’s a short connection from the power steering box, but it sounds like I would be in better shape pointing the fittings up?

How well does your tube and fin setup work? Do you happen to have any pictures handy?

 

[FuglyYota]

The BV article is what I used to drill and tap my Saginaw box. I’ll let you know how it worked this weekend after I hook up the ram, I did the drill and tap last weekend.

Yes the RS 3/8” diff covers are plenty stout for the ram. I can’t remember but I think I did that on the D60 on my ‘84 Minitruggy. Use good quality hardware for mounting, you don’t want it to be the failure point.

I also run a tube and fin unit for PS cooling. Put it on the return before the reservoir. Do not use a plate and frame cooler, it will froth the fluid at the pressure and flow of a Saginaw pump and box. I tried using a big oil cooler and it was a mess. Make sure the cooler isn’t higher than the res or when you turn the truck off, the cooler may try to gravity drain into the res and could overflow it.

Thanks. It sounds like you have some experience with a few experiments. I was originally thinking that I would run the following tube and fin vertically with the hose fittings facing down so that it’s a short connection from the power steering box, but it sounds like I would be in better shape pointing the fittings up?

How well does your tube and fin setup work? Do you happen to have any pictures handy?

View attachment 3925779

It’s ok if they’re pointed down, mine are. It’s just that the return line into the reservoir should be high enough that gravity does not take over and drain the cooler and lines back into it. Here’s what I have now, and it works. 85%+ of the cooler is below the level of fluid in the reservoir.

 

[peesalot]

FWIW my ram is mounted to a removable diff cover, no issues.

 

[Ditcherman]

Well apparently I’m not an engineer, totally wrong about the diff cover mount.
I was probably thinking more along the lines of full hydro, could you mount full hydro on the diff cover?

Appreciate the power steering cooling conversation too, we just ran mine through the trans cooler built into the radiator. I’d better put a loop in it to prevent it from gravity feeding out.

 

[Mike Shull]

I’ll see what I can do as I am still running the factory GM power steering pump with the attached reservoir and the pump sits pretty low on the engine. I was hoping to get by with this pump for the next 6-8 months until I am ready to upgrade.

Is anyone else running the factory GM pump, or have you ran it this way? If so, did/do you have any issues with light-medium duty steering circumstances?

 

[matzell]

I’ll see what I can do as I am still running the factory GM power steering pump with the attached reservoir and the pump sits pretty low on the engine. I was hoping to get by with this pump for the next 6-8 months until I am ready to upgrade.

Is anyone else running the factory GM pump, or have you ran it this way? If so, did/do you have any issues with light-medium duty steering circumstances?

With the ram, you need a larger resevoir to hold the fluid. It needs to be above everything else. The cooler should be run lower than the resevoir, Ideally you want inlet at the bottom and outlet at the top to reduce cavitation and air in the system. With both at the bottom you can have air trapped in the top of the tubes. Look at Van pumps and resevoirs. Or Switch over the the PSC set up. I like the tube and fin coolers, they are a little more robust and can be solid mounted. The ones that go through the radiator with plastic straps can damage the radiator when bounced around off road.

On the ram mount on the diff cover, it can be done, that is why I suggest a "lube locker" gasket so you can retighten it if needed but also use lock tight.

 

[FuglyYota]

I’m with you Mike, my pump is mounted pretty low on the accessory drive. I picked up the remote pump housing from PSC, a cheap but large aluminum reservoir, and “made” a remote mount setup. First pic is the pump and housing I had after I moved the alternator to the pass side, next pics are the solution.

 

[Mike Shull]

Thanks for all of the tips. I chatted with the fab shop that is finishing my A/C and they are going to do the work at the upholstery shop, which gives me back a full week to finish things on my end. What a relief (I hope). I ordered a can and extra tall reservoir from PSC and I plan to do that work towards the end of next week. We have a wedding to attend this weekend so I will plan to get some of the fluids changed and knock out some loose ends.

I put about 75 miles on the Cruiser today making my rounds at work. It was very hot (89 degrees) today and to my surprise, the Cruiser started every time. The starter heat soak problem appears to have been fixed with DEI starter and exhaust wrap, and the breaker never tripped. It was way too hot for that nonsense.

 

[clrussell]

I guess I missed where you were having starter heat soak issues

 

[Mike Shull]

I guess I missed where you were having starter heat soak issues

I may have forgotten to mention it. I didn’t think anything of it last year as I was running a battery that was 7+ years old. I think that the exhaust manifold is too close to the starter and it has been hard to start when hot. It wouldn’t start at all when it got hot on the trail a few weeks ago. I wrapped the exhaust and put a heat shield boot around the starter and it is much happier. The true test will be on the trail, which I am hoping to be able to do before heading to Ouray. I’ll put a heat shield in there as a third measure, which might be made out of tin foil if I am doing it at camp. Ha.

 

[Mike Shull]

I finished changing the fluids and getting the Cruiser ready for the shop. I drop it off this afternoon to get the A/C system measured, then I will pick it up tomorrow and bring home to install the hydro assist. It goes back to the shop next week for the next 3-4 weeks to finish the A/C, build a top and redo the interior.

I had some downtime today so I am making a center console.

 

[Mike Shull]

I’m stopping here. This will be a fun project while the Cruiser is away at summer camp.

 

[Mike Shull]

I made a tray on the inside for my registration, sunglasses, wallet, etc., and another tray for my phone. The cup holders are meant for a boat and seem to work fine.

 

[Mike Shull]

It’s almost too hot to keep going but I am going to try and get the remote reservoir mounted before I faint. The ram is tacked in place and I will weld it tonight when it cools down a bit. I had to lower the tie rod a bit to make room, which seemed better than mounting the ram on the bottom.

The ambient temperature I was reading 97 degrees and the engine never went above 205 during a 30 minute drive. I’m very satisfied with the cooling system. The A/C isn’t working yet as the compressor locked up. That is a future problem to solve.

 

[Mike Shull]

Goal achieved! Now it’s time for a cold shower.