What a great build, keep up the good work!
Builds Stretched 1-Ton FJ40 (17 Viewers)
- Thread starter Mike Shull
- Start date
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Mike Shull
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- #1,662
Thank you. I can use all of the encouragement that you can send. It’s been a long journey and I am excited to use it this summer.
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
Long journey, but it really looks like it's paid off. Really looking good!
So what's on the list?
AC compresser maybe?
What else has to be done?
Take it to SAS
Really looking forward to checking it out !!
Been following this build from the beginning
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Mike Shull
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- #1,665
It goes back to get a new compressor on Monday, then to the upholstery shop to get the soft top made. I’ll finish the console while the Cruiser is in the shop. I may install an air compressor if I have time. I can’t wait to see your Cruiser!
Haha. So close. I can’t wait to hit the road.Take it to SAS
Really looking forward to checking it out !!
Been following this build for the beginning
Have you cycled the steering. Looks tight on the diff cover and the tie rod. Looks good though.
Mike Shull
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- #1,667
Yes I have. It has 1/8” of clearance when the tie rod is turned to the inside on the hot and joint. It’s tight but I think that it will work. It will most likely flex and touch the diff with the bolt and I had the bolt flipped the other way and it clears, but the tie rod can twist a little bit and hang the bolt up on the drag link.
Rotate the hiems in opposite directions and it will not twist as much.
Mike Shull
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- #1,669
Ditcherman
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Subscribed.
It will also help eliminate clunking when you turn the opposite direction. I have heard it referred too as clocking the tie rod ends/ hiems.
Rotate one forward and the other backward so that the tie rod doesn't rotate. I leave about a 1/8" of movement in mine.
Mike Shull
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- #1,672
I’m shifting to smaller tasks that I can finish in half a day. The steering is nearly done, but I had to stop because I can’t remove the steering box to tap the ports for hydraulic assist. When I added the Alcan springs years ago, I welded the hangers too close to the bottom bolt of the steering box, and now I can’t get a wrench on it. See the last picture. I repurposed those same spring perches for the AntiRock bar, and I didn’t check clearances while I was in there. That would have been the best time to fix the mount.
I might be able to tap the box while it’s still on the Cruiser, but I’ll need to remove the winch first. I don’t think that I can get all of that done before noon today, and I need it drivable to get it to the speed shop tomorrow. The upholstery shop is delayed, so I’ll have it for one more weekend—which is a relief. I’ll plan to pull the winch next weekend and reassess then.
The PSC can and remote reservoir are mounted and working well. The cooler is installed, too, and I think that the location should work fine. I secured it to the front grille with oil cooler ties, using leftover rubber body bushings as isolators. I would like to take it down a dirt road to make sure that it stays in place and doesn’t shift or leak but I might be testing it on the way to Ouray—haha.
I might be able to tap the box while it’s still on the Cruiser, but I’ll need to remove the winch first. I don’t think that I can get all of that done before noon today, and I need it drivable to get it to the speed shop tomorrow. The upholstery shop is delayed, so I’ll have it for one more weekend—which is a relief. I’ll plan to pull the winch next weekend and reassess then.
The PSC can and remote reservoir are mounted and working well. The cooler is installed, too, and I think that the location should work fine. I secured it to the front grille with oil cooler ties, using leftover rubber body bushings as isolators. I would like to take it down a dirt road to make sure that it stays in place and doesn’t shift or leak but I might be testing it on the way to Ouray—haha.
I think I would try to tap the box on the frame before I tried to remove that bolt 
One day that box is going to need to come off. And after drilling and tapping my own box, there’s no way I could have done it properly on the frame. Bite the bullet.
See if you can get a 12 point wrench in there or a gear wrench, loosen the other 3 first and push the box off the frame. I have had to deal with this before. Worse case take a small die grinder to the frame or whatever is in the way and open it up to get a wrench on. Better to do this now, than later if you had to take the box off. Also I always gut the box when I drill and tap so nothing gets in there..
Mike Shull
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- #1,676
I took another look at the box and it’s not as bad as I thought. I should be able to get to this once the bumper is off.
Can you drill a hole from the other side to get a socket with an extension through?
Mike Shull
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- #1,678
Yes and I thought about doing that. Good call. I might be able to drill a hole with the bumper on but I can’t remember if the bumper needs to come off to allow for the box to come out. I think that I will take the bumper off next weekend and see what happens when I stick a wrench on the buried bolt. If I can’t turn that bolt then I will drill a hole.
Mike Shull
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- #1,679
I am so excited that something went back on without having to modify it. The bike rack fits! Someone forgot to test fit that when they were making the bumper. I’m ready to drop the Cruiser off in the morning!
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
Unpossible!!
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