Hey Mike. Are your front fenders MetalTech?
Builds Stretched 1-Ton FJ40 (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter Mike Shull
- Start date
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Blackknight1
SILVER Star
I wish i knew you did that. I sent mine to be done by a guy in Tennessee. It took him a while to do it andvsend it back. He seems to have done a good job, though.Let me know if you need help modifying the LS harness. I have done a few. I usually use a pre-made fuse block from Current Performance to power everything on the motor. You could extend the lines and hide the block inside or just leave it in the engine bay.
SA-1500 Stand Alone Fuse/Relay Module
This is our small fuse/relay module that is used on all of our bare bones Stand-alone Wiring harnesses that simply need to make an engine run. Buy now.www.currentperformance.com
Blackknight1
SILVER Star
That's what i did on mine. Worked fine and looks like it will hold (i hope it holds, lol).
Mike Shull
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- #664
Hi Paul! No, I built these from scratch. I am still contemplating cutting access holes on the top for the factory hood hooks or leave it as is and put JK hooks.
I ended up bending a c-channel for the inside but I did use stock outer frame pieces for the extension. Next time I would just bend both pieces from 3/16” plate.
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Mike Shull
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- #666
That would be neat. Shorty hooks. I’m making the decision this weekend so keep the ideas coming.
I always hated the light in the front corner where latch goes stock when guys raise the fender. I like them big 70 yellow lights, mine are running & blink I would leave those even if they stick up over hood. Dont like any other idea than customizing stock. issue I see is cant really move fixed end up on hood too much or you get to much curve in play. I would set the straight latch where it has enough room to release if you can and bend it to lay the fixed end on hood, may have to adjust the tab angle on the little piece you tack/bolt to hood but it looks like a carefull bend to all parts would work. Might have to take it apart to bend the arm separate from body and reassemble but that would be cool IMO. A slight tilt of the top toward windshield will help with release room on the bottom, just enough so the horn on the handle clears the fender where it turns down.
Mike Shull
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- #668
Not much has happened since August. Today I am trying to get the body aligned so that I can take the front fenders off and finish the fab work before paint. All body mount bolts are off and I can’t seem to get the tub to come forward. 1/16” at a time. It will get there.
the easiest way to get that to go away is shimming the front body mount bolts up a little.
Cowl looks like it's pointing up a bit, shimming rear mounts up may level it out and push hood forward.
Mike Shull
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- #672
I actually shimmed both and got it very close. For some reason the area between my tub and cowl needs to be shimmed by about 1/4”. I tried to lift the rear of the tub up thinking that I didn’t get the frame height correct when I lengthened it but it didn’t align correctly at 2” higher at the rear crossmember. I doubt that I missed the height at all, and especially not by that much.
Have you tried shimming up just the front and try pulling the top of the cowl forward? Cowl can have some play.
Mike Shull
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- #674
Yes I did. The cowl is solid, way more solid than how it was attached to the original tub. I even took two large ratchet straps to try and bring the cowl forward and it wouldn’t budge until I started cutting it away from the tub.
It looks so good. Can’t wait to see more progress
Mike Shull
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- #676
Good to go. Yes, the left fender needs some more fab work to lower the front inside corner but the body lines up. 3/16” spacer between the cowl and tub.
Better fitment than from factory 
What are you using as a spacer? Don't know a lot about the aluminum tubs, any worries about galvanic corrosion with aluminum up against steel?
What are you using as a spacer? Don't know a lot about the aluminum tubs, any worries about galvanic corrosion with aluminum up against steel?
Mike Shull
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- #678
I am using a washer to test but I plan to cut a piece of aluminum to stick in there. Aqualu recommends SilkaFlex between aluminum and steel to prevent corrosion.Better fitment than from factory
What are you using as a spacer? Don't know a lot about the aluminum tubs, any worries about galvanic corrosion with aluminum up against steel?
Sika Sikaflex-291 LOT - General... Amazon product ASIN B00C50GIQI
If those aren't welded to the body, you'll want more gap than that
Mike Shull
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- #680
Thanks, DJ. What has your experience been with clearances? I see that you remade your front fenders. Did you have clearance issues?
These aprons are still bolted to the factory inner fender and the outer tube is welded to those inner fenders from the underside. I was hoping to put some panel adhesive between the seems and move on. I’m ready to drive this thing. Lol.
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