Mike Shull
Let’s go…
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- #1,581
I’ll fix it…This pic looks like one of those clown house Mirror pics when you have a big head and little body
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I’ll fix it…This pic looks like one of those clown house Mirror pics when you have a big head and little body
Looking very nice!I got a little further with the right slider. I’m glad that I went with the 1-1/4” dimple die like @Ditcherman did on his truck. It looks beefy.
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I love this cage. It should be a standard design. DJ Summit Cages.Looking great. If I ever do a cage I want to do similar
Looking great!
I’m building my a and b pillar braces today. I will tie those in to the rock sliders. I am not tying in the c pillar as I am out of room in the rear. Technically I did tie the right c pillar in to the tire carrier with a 1/2” spring latch. Ha. I doubt that will do much.Looking great!
Do I assume correctly that the a and b pillar attach to the frame through the floor? I think I remember seeing that.
Did you develop a way to attach the rear pillar to the frame? The Aqualu tub is a bit different in that regard, and I’m trying to figure out triangulation, which is obvious to use that rear pillar, but without that going to the frame seems to me to not offer the strength it maybe should. That’s a solid chunk of aluminum, but it’s still just a 1/4 or 3/16 inch thick piece of aluminum.
I decided to purposely not tie my roll cage to the sliders, but separately to the frame. That way if the sliders took a hit and moved it wouldn’t affect the body.I’m building my an and b pillar braces today. I will tie those in to the rock sliders. I am not tying in the c pillar as I am out of room in the rear. Technically I did tie the right c pillar in to the tire carrier with a 1/2” spring latch. Ha. I doubt that will do much.
I’m not too concerned about my sliders moving. I built them with the same mounts as before and the previous sliders stayed in place for the past 25 years.I decided to purposely not tie my roll cage to the sliders, but separately to the frame. That way if the sliders took a hit and moved it wouldn’t affect the body.
But, my slider mounts are fairly long (lots of potential leverage) and I had the space to the frame.
I don’t have the a/c charged yet because I need to build custom lines to get around my suspension brackets. I may not have that part done this year but the heater cranks.Have you tried the ac yet? Wondering about the vintage air setup
I don’t have the a/c charged yet because I need to build custom lines to get around my suspension brackets. I may not have that part done this year but the heater cranks.
I did fit the factory LS compressor but I will most likely have to lift the engine to replace it. There isn’t much room between the frame and the compressor.I looked back and see you have the factory LS compressor inside the frame. That’s a big win. I’m glad it fits. Im tempted to remove my heater now during my 5.3 swap and go to a vintage air later this year.
Thanks for the info.I did fit the factory LS compressor but I will most likely have to lift the engine to replace it. There isn’t much room between the frame and the compressor.
I love this heater. I went with the high output blower and the factory heater is no comparison. The Vintage Air puts out way more volume. I laugh when my rear heater kicks on.
I highly recommend it!Thanks for the info.
I guess I should put a new compressor in when I have the engine back out to finish welding everything haha.
Carry on![]()