Build Stretched 1-Ton FJ40

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Rock40 said:
My $.02 here

I’m going away from running a frame mounted external pump. Yes, they are very easy to change. That’s good because I believe I’m on my 7th one at this point. Not cheap junk either, I’ve been through Mallory, Bosch and AEM.

I suspect (and a local hot rod shop owner agrees) that they simply get too hot and essentially burn up. Hot rod guy stated he used to use external pumps on customer builds but absolutely will not now because of reliability

It will require cutting my current tank up and welding it back together (primarily to address the complete s*** awful baffling in the Australian long range tank) but also to convert it to an in-tank Aeromotive Phantom 340.

All OEM’s run in-tank pumps which are cooled by being submerged in the ambient fuel. And they last and last and last. Yes, it sucks having to drop your tank to change a pump. It also sucks being stranded for 5 days in very northern BC because your external pump burned up, again.

Last one that burned up was in Nevada after leaving the Rubicon. Didn’t have my spare anymore because I gave it away on the run, to someone else who’s external pump burned up. So yeah. No more external pumps for me
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Solid input. My experience with external pumps is on vehicles that are trailered to/from their location of use, which isn't the case for your 40 or mikes 40. I'd still want easy access to the top of the tank to get the in-tank pump out without dropping the tank.
 
Mike Shull said:
I tend to agree with @Rock40 on this one. Thanks for the tip, @EWheeler . I am looking at those lines and fittings that you recommended.

My Cruiser has had a few external pumps on it and it seems like the 8-10+ hour on-highway drives would zap them. I would also get intermittent vapor lock with them when I was driving up long, steady stretches of highway, or when I was traveling at any speed above 10-11k feet in the summer, which all went away when I switched back to a mechanical pump.
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If you don’t have an access hatch, it’d be worth the push. If you think you’re likely to burn up an in-tank pump, what about having an external mounted inline to pull through the in-tank pump would be an easy back up. Theoretically , both pumps are capable of letting fluid pass through. I seen this discussed on other forums.

I’ve never set this up, but it’s on my radar. Truth be told, my in-tank pump (Yukon-oem) has been flawless. A long drive for me is only an hour or two, so your results may vary.

I’m not sure what your fuel flow needs are, but I’m a big fan of using the oem stuff. The advantage of an oem pump, especially Chevy, is that the parts are stalked at every parts store in the country. I blew my p/s pump Thursday- had a new one in my hand that day, installed that night.
 
I am really trying to keep this cruiser as original as possible and I didn’t want to cut holes in the body. Just kidding 😉

I’m glad that these concerns are being raised as I forgot to put a drain plug in the mockup. I will want to drain the fuel I ever need to drop the tank. What else am I missing?

Perhaps I do cut a hole in my floor and install something like this, though 5x5” might not be large enough. Ultra-Fab Products 48-979010 Ultra-Fab Products Universal Access Doors | Summit Racing - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ufp-48-979010
 
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More metalwork…

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Back to the drawing board. I made my radio pigtail too short and I accidentally pulled a few wires out of the plug as I was tracking down the reason for losing power to my trailer brake controller. At least I can reroute a few other wires that I put in after I did the main wiring.

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I’m dropping off my styrofoam mock up tank at the fabrication shop tomorrow! I went with a bolt on style in tank fuel pump stand with a Walbro 255 LPH pump and a standalone cylinder floatless style sending unit from Tanks, Inc. The stand has a fuel tray at the bottom to prevent against fuel starvation on angles or acceleration/braking.

  • 1- VV--38 - In Tank Rollover Vent Valve - Brass In Tank Vent NPT Size: 3/8" NPT Thread @ $30.00
  • 1- PA-4 - High Flow Fuel Pump - 255 Liters Per Hour - Up to 630 hp- kt @ $235.00
  • 1- AD-66 - 6-1/8" x 6-1/8" Floor Access Door @ $45.00
  • 1- 94-615 - Walbro Fuel Pump Wire Harness @ $7.25
  • 1- NE-60 - 2" ID x 60 Degree Fuel Filler Hose @ $22.00
  • T- GML-14 Fuel Sender - FUEL SENDER OHM RANGE: 0-90 Ohms, FLOATLESS SENDER LENGTH: 14 inch @ $119.95

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I’ve been doodling this morning and here is my radiator mockup drawing. If this is possible the core will be 26” x 17” with dual, 12” 1870 cfm Spal fans.

I am very pleased with the engine placement thus far as I have 5.5” of room for the radiator core and 8” total distance to the engine so plenty of room for the radiator and fans/shroud, plus this is with moving the radiator 1.5” inward toward the engine to leave room up front for the a/c condenser. On a side note, I may have gone off of the deep end by adding A/C, but it seems to fit.

I will not be using Griffin Radiators due to personal preference. I plan to get a quote from Wizard Cooling and BeCool. Are there any others that I should consider or are there any experiences from these two that you all can share?

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Mike Shull said:
I’ve been doodling this morning and here is my radiator mockup drawing. If this is possible the core will 26” x 17” with dual, 12” 1870 cfm Spal fans.

I am very pleased with the engine placement thus far as I have 5.5” of room for the radiator core and 8” total distance to the engine so plenty of room for the radiator and fans/shroud, plus this is with moving the radiator 1.5” inward toward the engine to leave room up front for the a/c condenser. On a side note, I may have gone off of the deep end by adding A/C, but it seems to fit.

I will not be using Griffin Radiators due to personal preference. I plan to get a quote from Wizard Cooling and BeCool. Are there any others that I should consider or are there any experiences from these two that you all can share?

View attachment 3601091

View attachment 3601092
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I haven’t seen your whole build list but appears you’ve got an LS swap in there. We run the OE style 4 core radiator from CCOT with great success. Factory mechanical fan with a simple shroud and never a temp issue. Welcome to PM if you want pics etc 👍🏽
 
TacoMarv said:
I haven’t seen your whole build list but appears you’ve got an LS swap in there. We run the OE style 4 core radiator from CCOT with great success. Factory mechanical fan with a simple shroud and never a temp issue. Welcome to PM if you want pics etc 👍🏽
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Thanks for the tip. That’s what I had in there before and it did keep the temp between 200-210 on an old SBC. I’d like to go a little bigger this time around.
 
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TacoMarv said:
Normal temps 190-200 with setup 5.3 and 6.0
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The radiator that came with this 6.2l was pretty crunched but the core was around 34x17x2” and the dual fans were approximately 14”. My 4 core radiator core was 19x17x2.5”.

I tow a trailer with this Cruiser, and often in bumper to bumper traffic, both in the city and on steep mountain grades (6%+).

My setup was fine for all around driving either on the highway or offroad, and I expect the LS to naturally run at lower temperatures. I only overheated 1/2 dozen times over 20 years and most of the time it happened when pulling a trailer up I-70, except for a few times in Moab or the desert of Western Colorado when it was 105 degrees F. This didn’t hurt the cast iron block but I won’t take that sort of chance with the full aluminum LS.
 
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For what it worth, LS engines can hit 230 without issue. I don’t like the needle living in that territory, but I hit it driving over the pass (10%) occasionally without too much concern. Stock radiator and Taurus fan. I don’t pull anything with mine.
 
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Mike Shull said:
I went with the 3/8 fuel rail fitting to -6 AN hose from Kartek Offroad Parts And Accessories - https://www.kartek.com/. Hopefully it’s right. Thanks again for the source , @EWheeler!

My fuel tank is 5-6 weeks out and the radiator is 6+ weeks out.
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I didn't see it on their site but that sounds right. Something like this is what I've always used, many options on Summit or Amazon.

www.summitracing.com

Earl's Performance 751166ERL Earl's Performance Vapor Guard OEM Quick-Connect Fuel Rail Adapter Fittings | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Earl's Performance Vapor Guard OEM Quick-Connect Fuel Rail Adapter Fittings with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Fittings and Adapters at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com
 
afraptor22 said:
I didn't see it on their site but that sounds right. Something like this is what I've always used, many options on Summit or Amazon.

www.summitracing.com

Earl's Performance 751166ERL Earl's Performance Vapor Guard OEM Quick-Connect Fuel Rail Adapter Fittings | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Earl's Performance Vapor Guard OEM Quick-Connect Fuel Rail Adapter Fittings with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Fittings and Adapters at Summit Racing.
www.summitracing.com www.summitracing.com
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Thanks, @afraptor22. That is pretty close to what I went with. I was impatient. 🙄
 
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