Builds Stretched 1-Ton FJ40 (3 Viewers)

[Ditcherman]

need to find out what that will measure with the 40" tires aired down. Should drop it to around 18-19" at maybe 8psi in the tires

Do your tires measure a true 40”? I’m always disappointed at the actual sizes vs what they’re labeled. Might be even shorter than 18” a lot also depends on load range/sidewall build. My Nitto Terra grapplers load range e show very little flex at low pressures.

 

[Mike Shull]

Do your tires measure a true 40”? I’m always disappointed at the actual sizes vs what they’re labeled. Might be even shorter than 18” a lot also depends on load range/sidewall build. My Nitto Terra grapplers load range e show very little flex at low pressures.

According to Mickey Thompson the true size is 39.8”. Honestly a 37” tire would have been just fine for this truck but I know that these 40’s will be great for large drops and gaps in Moab.

So far the 40’s in Colorado have been more of an entertainment factor. I’ve come out from a store a few times to find a parent taking pictures of their 4’ tall child next to the tire. Ha!

 

[cruzinfj1]

Whats up with this thing lately??? Still waiting for a burnout vid!!! lol

 

[Mike Shull]

Whats up with this thing lately??? Still waiting for a burnout vid!!! lol

I haven’t done anything to it since September as I have been working on another house project, which should be done in a week or two. I’ll have to let the play money build back up, too, so the next pieces will be modifications that don’t cost much money.

I have been driving the wheels off of it, literally—well the tires. I am still waiting for my final wheel to arrive and I am using my spare sticky Maxxis tire to drive, and that tire is starting to show signs of wear. I almost have 500 miles on it and all is good so far, except I will need to reclock the transfer case.

I finally ground down my front axle u-joint and tested the 4x4 and my front propeller shaft and carrier bearing are too steep, which I suspected would be the case once it started coming together. The front driveline is binding at what seems to be at the short propeller shaft u-joint at the t-case. This shaft connects my front driveline to the differential while keeping the driveline higher and away from the engine. The vibration is moderate and I don’t believe that it will self clear.

Everything is very tight on that side so it might require remaking my transmission and rear link mounts. The transmission mount may need to be reshaped to allow the front drive shaft to clear and I don’t know if I can get my transfer case out without cutting the rear link mount or removing the body. The lesson learned there, regardless if I can remove the transfer case, is that I should have made the link mount removable. No big deal but it might extend my timeline for taking it on trips. Either way, I am going to put that work on hold and continue with the top extension next, then the cage. I’ll deal with the front driveline angles next year, along with the interior and soft top.

Thanks for checking in. This thing has been a blast to drive! It goes 80 mph just fine down the freeway at low rpms and it is very comfortable to drive. I love the extra space in the rear, too, and I have hauled all sorts of supplies for the remodel project. It’s starting to look like it is being used again, though I am a little careful not to scratch it…too much.

 

[Firemedic831]

Now the fun of dialing it in . It just takes time . They just are much more fun when you can drive them .

 

[peesalot]

pics of this dline mess, what & where did you put the pillow block/carrier bearing ? Woodlee makes a sick one with 1350 yokes both sides and dana 60 wheel bearings, it aint small tho.

 

[Mike Shull]

pics of this dline mess, what & where did you put the pillow block/carrier bearing ? Woodlee makes a sick one with 1350 yokes both sides and dana 60 wheel bearings, it aint small tho.

Here are a few pictures from when I installed it. This is from Wide Open Design (Adam Woodlee) and I can vouch for your comment—it is sick and stout.

I originally had a flatter driveline angle at the t-case but that changed because I had to put my engine at a steeper angle (I don’t remember why but I lifted my engine up a few inches after the t-case was set). The front output flange is setting upwards by 3-4 degrees and you can feel a slight resistance when rotating that shaft by hand.

Post in thread 'Stretched 1-Ton FJ40'
Builds - Stretched 1-Ton FJ40 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/stretched-1-ton-fj40.1253008/post-14480795

 

[cruzinfj1]

pics of this dline mess, what & where did you put the pillow block/carrier bearing ? Woodlee makes a sick one with 1350 yokes both sides and dana 60 wheel bearings, it aint small tho.

Link?

** quoted before reading the response, my bad **

 

[Mike Shull]

Link?

** quoted before reading the response, my bad **

Ha. No problem. There should be a way to delete your own comments.

While we are at it, below is a link to the kit that I bought. It’s hard to believe that I put this in nearly 2.5 years ago. Am I doing the math right?

1350 Carrier Bearing Shaft Kit

Wide Open Design's carrier bearing kits provide all the components you need to build at home. This is the exact parts we use in buggies rolling out of the shop here! Includes:Wide Open Design Single Ended Carrier BearingCarrier Bearing MountSpicer 1350 YokeSpicer 1350 Weld YokeSpicer 1350...

www.wideopendesign.com

 

[cruzinfj1]

Ha. No problem. There should be a way to delete your own comments.

While we are at it, below is a link to the kit that I bought. It’s hard to believe that I put this in nearly 2.5 years ago. Am I doing the math right?

1350 Carrier Bearing Shaft Kit

Wide Open Design's carrier bearing kits provide all the components you need to build at home. This is the exact parts we use in buggies rolling out of the shop here! Includes:Wide Open Design Single Ended Carrier BearingCarrier Bearing MountSpicer 1350 YokeSpicer 1350 Weld YokeSpicer 1350...

www.wideopendesign.com

Ya, I just looked at it. Its definitely beef!! I've actually been taking pics this time of what Ive got goin on, so Ill start a thread at some point once I have it somewhat organized.

 

[Mike Shull]

Ya, I just looked at it. Its definitely beef!! I've actually been taking pics this time of what Ive got goin on, so Ill start a thread at some point once I have it somewhat organized.

Sweet! I can’t wait to see the thread!!

 

[peesalot]

Mike, I see you have a shaft on the tcase side vs. a yoke, curious what happens when tcase moves or frame flexs ? I'd put the yoke in on that side too. Eitther way the line looks good , where is it binding ? with a yoke on the tcase side you could push that frame mount for carrier inboard just a bit if you have room.

 

[Mike Shull]

Mike, I see you have a shaft on the tcase side vs. a yoke, curious what happens when tcase moves or frame flexs ? I'd put the yoke in on that side too. Eitther way the line looks good , where is it binding ? with a yoke on the tcase side you could push that frame mount for carrier inboard just a bit if you have room.

What would the benefit be with using a yoke vs a flange? I don’t know if I can get in there to cut and weld the carrier bearing mount now that the body is on.

Nothing seems to flex when the suspension is flexed. The frame is fully welded and boxed.

 

[peesalot]

May not be an issue at all given the limited movement the tcase to frame relationship will see. I found that my frame & tcase move ALOT more than I thought.
Might be fine in your set up, have not seen that before, we'll find out.

 

[Mike Shull]

I crawled under the cruiser today to take another look at the front driveshaft. Everything looks tight and it definitely looks like the transfer case is too high. I think that dropping it down by one bolt pattern will fix the problem. Sounds easy enough.

The difference between the transfer case flange and the first driveshaft is approximately 17°

The difference between the first driveshaft and the second driveshaft angle is approximately 7°

And the difference between the front shaft and the pinion is approximately 2°

17° seems too steep to me and I think that lowering the case by one bolt pattern will fix the alignment at that point. However, I’m also concerned with the variation of angles (2° versus 7°) on the front shaft, though by lowering the case, it should also correct these angles, or at least get them closer to spec. I will drop the case first and see what happens before worrying about anything else.

 

[Mike Shull]

On the other hand, I might be okay by just raising my carrier bearing a bit. I realize now that I have to cut that mount no matter what because it is welded at the angle of the shaft so perhaps I cut, raise and tack weld that bracket first to see what happens.

The lesson here is that pvc pipe and bungee cords help with mockup, but nothing beats working with the actual parts.

 

[Zukrider]

Mine is the affordable bender. It makes great bends though I prefer using a bench mounted bender like you mentioned. I would purchase a JD2 or similar bender next time. I can tell that this one will be a two person job when it comes time for the cage. The tube is hard to slip into the bender so you have to put it on the side and stand it up a bunch, otherwise I would have mounted this one to something. It’s good for the money, but it definitely takes longer to use. Plus you can’t bend larger than 1-3/4 x 0.095 DOM.

Hey Mike. I have a Rogue Fab with 5 dies. You’re welcome to use it if it would be beneficial. Also have a dimple die set and some other goodies. If the weather is good, I’ll be doing some more cage stuff on mine 12/2-8, and the 10th-13th.

 

[Mike Shull]

Hey Mike. I have a Rogue Fab with 5 dies. You’re welcome to use it if it would be beneficial. Also have a dimple die set and some other goodies. If the weather is good, I’ll be doing some more cage stuff on mine 12/2-8, and the 10th-13th.

That is very generous. Thank you. I have a Swag press brake if you need. It sounds like you have the press since you have simple dies. I will hit you up early next year when I am ready to do bumpers, and if I redo this transmission mount I will do it with tube. I think that DJ is going to come help me bend the cage.

 

[Zukrider]

That is very generous. Thank you. I have a Swag press brake if you need. It sounds like you have the press since you have simple dies. I will hit you up early next year when I am ready to do bumpers, and if I redo this transmission mount I will do it with tube. I think that DJ is going to come help me bend the cage.

Right on! Good to have a plan. I have the same press brake, with straight fingers and goose neck fingers also.

 

[Mike Shull]

I ran it with only the front engaged in low with the hubs disengaged to check for balance. This video is in 5th gear at 500 engine rpm’s and it looks fine. The vibration started at about 750 rpm’s so I’ll have to take another one when my wife is pressing on the throttle.