Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #941
FYI, RCI won’t build this tank. They will only build rectangular tanks. I’m seeking other options.
Builds Stretched 1-Ton FJ40 (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Mike Shull
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Mike, with the cost to build that custom tank, I would think hard on the LRA underseat option. Out of the way, and more than enough fuel for your needs.
Long Range America | Toyota Land Cruiser 40/42 Series (1960-1979) - 29 Gallon Replacement
Upgrade your Toyota Land Cruiser 40/42 Series (1960-1979) effortlessly with our durable 29-gallon aluminized steel replacement fuel tank, designed to enhance your vehicle's fuel capacity.
longrangeamerica.com
Or start with something like this and cut/weld until your happy and it doesn't leak
For Sale - SoCal: NOS/modified ConFerr aux tank
I bought a parts rig a few days ago that came with this tank. PO planned to run EFI V8 and cut a hole in the top of the tank for a pump he never got around to installing. I’ve got three choices here: weld the original piece back in (work), weld the EFI plate in (work), or sell as is with both...
forum.ih8mud.com
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #943
I had that tank before. The main issue Is that I’ve moved my fuel filler to the rear and it’s painted.Mike, with the cost to build that custom tank, I would think hard on the LRA underseat option. Out of the way, and more than enough fuel for your needs.
Long Range America | Toyota Land Cruiser 40/42 Series (1960-1979) - 29 Gallon Replacement
Upgrade your Toyota Land Cruiser 40/42 Series (1960-1979) effortlessly with our durable 29-gallon aluminized steel replacement fuel tank, designed to enhance your vehicle's fuel capacity.
Or start with something like this and cut/weld until your happy and it doesn't leak
For Sale - SoCal: NOS/modified ConFerr aux tank
I bought a parts rig a few days ago that came with this tank. PO planned to run EFI V8 and cut a hole in the top of the tank for a pump he never got around to installing. I’ve got three choices here: weld the original piece back in (work), weld the EFI plate in (work), or sell as is with both...
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #944
Oops, I didn’t see the second part of your post. I responded to the Confer tank thread. That might work with a little customization.Mike, with the cost to build that custom tank, I would think hard on the LRA underseat option. Out of the way, and more than enough fuel for your needs.
Long Range America | Toyota Land Cruiser 40/42 Series (1960-1979) - 29 Gallon Replacement
Upgrade your Toyota Land Cruiser 40/42 Series (1960-1979) effortlessly with our durable 29-gallon aluminized steel replacement fuel tank, designed to enhance your vehicle's fuel capacity.
Or start with something like this and cut/weld until your happy and it doesn't leak
For Sale - SoCal: NOS/modified ConFerr aux tank
I bought a parts rig a few days ago that came with this tank. PO planned to run EFI V8 and cut a hole in the top of the tank for a pump he never got around to installing. I’ve got three choices here: weld the original piece back in (work), weld the EFI plate in (work), or sell as is with both...
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #945
I have another lead on a custom aluminum fuel tank. I’ll keep you all posted. JW Fabrication – Over 15 years experience providing welding, fabrication, CNC plasma cutting, machining and powder coating services. - https://jwfabshop.com/?fbclid=IwAR3Nit7Fcyljpu2DbKtWyw0hu6YF8Ct-BwNidFog6qWTWhrRBCsR_7IYfUU
Well, you have about 5 months....I would love to see this at SAS. I like your trail picks as well, want to guide one?
You should check with some of the desert racing guys, they have custom tanks built all the time.
maybe they can or know of someone: Campbell Enterprises - https://campbellent.com/
You should check with some of the desert racing guys, they have custom tanks built all the time.
maybe they can or know of someone: Campbell Enterprises - https://campbellent.com/
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #947
Hey! It’s been awhile. Good to hear from you. I doubt that I’ll have this thing on the road by August as I am only getting 5-6 days in a month. It’s so close.
I might be game to lead a trail though we would have to put a cardboard solid axle under my 4Runner. The only problem is I used all of my cardboard on the fuel tank.
Speaking of which, I’m in line at JWF (3-4 weeks). They said that this would be no problem and they are an hour from here so it would be easy to take them my mockup. Thanks for the leads.
Last edited:
Try 3r racing for a tank
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #949
Thanks for the leads on the fuel cell. I’m set for now as my friend Jared with JW Fabrication is going to have his team build this. They are upgrading their software (I have no idea what he meant but I can’t wait to see. CNC plasma?) and this should be a great project to run through that.
What are your recommendations for fuel line? I don’t have fitting tools anymore so I’m hoping that there is something out there that is somewhat easy to make/install.
No, I haven’t spiked my coffee. I realized that nothing is going to be easy to install on this once I found myself deep inside of the hazard switch modifying a piece to make it work again
. Apparently everything is going to be custom.
What are your recommendations for fuel line? I don’t have fitting tools anymore so I’m hoping that there is something out there that is somewhat easy to make/install.
No, I haven’t spiked my coffee. I realized that nothing is going to be easy to install on this once I found myself deep inside of the hazard switch modifying a piece to make it work again
. Apparently everything is going to be custom.
Last edited:
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #950
Big brother remake x2…
I like the XRP hose with Fragola push lock AN fittings and Oteiker clamps as a safety measure to keep the hose on…Thanks for the leads on the fuel cell. I’m set for now as my friend Jared with JW Fabrication is going to have his team build this. They are upgrading their software (I have no idea what he meant but I can’t wait to see. CNC plasma?) and this should be a great project to run through that.
What are your recommendations for fuel line? I don’t have fitting tools anymore so I’m hoping that there is something out there that is somewhat easy to make/install.
No, I haven’t spiked my coffee. I realized that nothing is going to be easy to install on this once I found myself deep inside of the hazard switch modifying a piece to make it work again
Kartek sells it all. I have used cheaper rubber push lock compatible fuel hose, and it deteriorates and cracks like any cheap china fuel hose. Pretty pissed actually, i had to re-plumb my whole fuel system last year due to junk hose from a very name brand supplier that only lasted 4 years. Have friends that have been running the XRP exclusively for many years with zero issues.
XRP Black NHRA Accepted AN -6 Push Lock Hose 3/8" Inside Diameter 5/8" Outside Diameter - Kartek Off-Road
XRP Black NHRA Accepted AN -6 Push Lock Hose 3/8" Inside Diameter 5/8" Outside Diameter for offroad racing in the King of the Hammers, New Zealand Taupo 1000, Dakar Rally, Tatts Finke Desert Race, Score International Baja 500 or Baja 1000, Mint 400, Vegas to Reno, Silk Way Rally, Crandon...
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #952
Thanks, Evan. This is exactly what I was looking for. I want this stuff to last and they seem reasonably priced.I like the XRP hose with Fragola push lock AN fittings and Oteiker clamps as a safety measure to keep the hose on…
Kartek sells it all. I have used cheaper rubber push lock compatible fuel hose, and it deteriorates and cracks like any cheap china fuel hose. Pretty pissed actually, i had to re-plumb my whole fuel system last year due to junk hose from a very name brand supplier that only lasted 4 years. Have friends that have been running the XRP exclusively for many years with zero issues.
XRP Black NHRA Accepted AN -6 Push Lock Hose 3/8" Inside Diameter 5/8" Outside Diameter - Kartek Off-Road
XRP Black NHRA Accepted AN -6 Push Lock Hose 3/8" Inside Diameter 5/8" Outside Diameter for offroad racing in the King of the Hammers, New Zealand Taupo 1000, Dakar Rally, Tatts Finke Desert Race, Score International Baja 500 or Baja 1000, Mint 400, Vegas to Reno, Silk Way Rally, Crandon...www.kartek.com
View attachment 3572192
Do you run this same line for your return?
Do you have any recommendations on the Oteiker clamp tools? I thought that I had one but it’s not looking so.
Yes, supply and return is now all XRP hose. The clamp tool is about $40 from kartek, im sure amazon sells a knockoff or cheaper model. I run -10 to my fuel pump inlet, -8 from pressure side to pressure regulator, -8 from regulator to fuel rails, -8 crossover between rails, -6 return to tank. It is likely fine going -6 for all of your hoses.
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #954
This is helpful. I didn’t realize that I needed a fuel regulator. I thought that was on the fuel rail somewhere. What pressure regulator are you running?
Where is your -10 line coming from that is hooked to your fuel pump inlet. Is this the pickup line inside of the tank? Are you running some sort of screen on your pick up line?
P.S. I am still trying to figure out how to get styrofoam to hold gasoline so I’m likely to have more questions once I start routing lines.
Depending on what you use from the OEM setup, you may not need an aftermarket regulator. My regulator is Aeromotive brand.
-10 goes from the fuel cell to 100 micron pre-pump serviceable filter, then the fuel pump which has -10 inlet, fuel pump is Weldon brand, -8 outlet to a 10 micron post-pump serviceable filter then -8 to regulator.
For your truck, i would go with some kind of parts house readily available fuel pump. I personally would not do an in tank pump based on how you are building your tank. I would mount the filters and the pump on the inside frame rail on passenger frame. Dont forget an external fuel shut off valve at the tank so you can service everything without draining the tank.
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #956
I have the factory style GM sending unit with an internal fuel pump style connection (no pump yet) and I was planning to run that to a frame-mounted filter, then to the engine. Why wouldn’t you run it this way? I was thinking about doing this to prevent vapor lock.
Last edited:
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #957
It was chaos today but I have a very good end result (mockup #3!) that should provide a solid mockup for measurements. I changed the design a bit so the above measurements are not current. I’ll let JWF hit it with a laser and I’ll report back the measurements later.
It got a little out of hand today.
P.S. I have the S-10 in tank pump housing in the mockup. This was here before @EWheeler ’s suggestion to use a different style pump. I’m still open to hearing the pros and cons with this setup and I have 2-3 weeks before it will be built.
I plan to finish the throttle pedal and miscellaneous wiring next weekend, then I need to wait until April paychecks arrive to get more parts coming so I may be somewhat silent in late March. The cooling system will be next in line once the fuel system is done.
It got a little out of hand today.
P.S. I have the S-10 in tank pump housing in the mockup. This was here before @EWheeler ’s suggestion to use a different style pump. I’m still open to hearing the pros and cons with this setup and I have 2-3 weeks before it will be built.
I plan to finish the throttle pedal and miscellaneous wiring next weekend, then I need to wait until April paychecks arrive to get more parts coming so I may be somewhat silent in late March. The cooling system will be next in line once the fuel system is done.
Reason for external pump is access. Im too lazy to go and search through pages of posts to look if there is an access hatch integrated into your rear floor. Last thing you want to do is have to drop the tank to change a fuel pump if you have the ability to make that choice now. Are OEM pumps accessible? No, and on a lot of vehicles you have to drop the tank to change them. With a frame mounted pump its literally a 10 min swap. Just my opinion.
Vapor lock - i honestly cant say ive ever experienced it in my life in any vehicle, carbureted or fuel injected.
Last edited:
My $.02 here
I’m going away from running a frame mounted external pump. Yes, they are very easy to change. That’s good because I believe I’m on my 7th one at this point. Not cheap junk either, I’ve been through Mallory, Bosch and AEM.
I suspect (and a local hot rod shop owner agrees) that they simply get too hot and essentially burn up. Hot rod guy stated he used to use external pumps on customer builds but absolutely will not now because of reliability
It will require cutting my current tank up and welding it back together (primarily to address the complete s*** awful baffling in the Australian long range tank) but also to convert it to an in-tank Aeromotive Phantom 340.
All OEM’s run in-tank pumps which are cooled by being submerged in the ambient fuel. And they last and last and last. Yes, it sucks having to drop your tank to change a pump. It also sucks being stranded for 5 days in very northern BC because your external pump burned up, again.
Last one that burned up was in Nevada after leaving the Rubicon. Didn’t have my spare anymore because I gave it away on the run, to someone else who’s external pump burned up. So yeah. No more external pumps for me
I’m going away from running a frame mounted external pump. Yes, they are very easy to change. That’s good because I believe I’m on my 7th one at this point. Not cheap junk either, I’ve been through Mallory, Bosch and AEM.
I suspect (and a local hot rod shop owner agrees) that they simply get too hot and essentially burn up. Hot rod guy stated he used to use external pumps on customer builds but absolutely will not now because of reliability
It will require cutting my current tank up and welding it back together (primarily to address the complete s*** awful baffling in the Australian long range tank) but also to convert it to an in-tank Aeromotive Phantom 340.
All OEM’s run in-tank pumps which are cooled by being submerged in the ambient fuel. And they last and last and last. Yes, it sucks having to drop your tank to change a pump. It also sucks being stranded for 5 days in very northern BC because your external pump burned up, again.
Last one that burned up was in Nevada after leaving the Rubicon. Didn’t have my spare anymore because I gave it away on the run, to someone else who’s external pump burned up. So yeah. No more external pumps for me
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #960
I tend to agree with @Rock40 on this one. Thanks for the tip, @EWheeler . I am looking at those lines and fittings that you recommended.
My Cruiser has had a few external pumps on it and it seems like the 8-10+ hour on-highway drives would zap them. I would also get intermittent vapor lock with them when I was driving up long, steady stretches of highway, or when I was traveling at any speed above 10-11k feet in the summer, which all went away when I switched back to a mechanical pump.
My Cruiser has had a few external pumps on it and it seems like the 8-10+ hour on-highway drives would zap them. I would also get intermittent vapor lock with them when I was driving up long, steady stretches of highway, or when I was traveling at any speed above 10-11k feet in the summer, which all went away when I switched back to a mechanical pump.
Last edited:
