This is 50 inches wide
Builds Stretched 1-Ton FJ40 (12 Viewers)
- Thread starter Mike Shull
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Mike Shull
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- #282
Thanks for measuring, @Firemedic831. I wish that it was 45”. So close.
Wont you disconnect the sway bar off road?
Not the anti rock. they actually help more off road than on .
Not sure i can visualize the physics here. Can you explain?
The way i understand it is the anti rock sway bars have less torsional rigidity than an OEM system and help transfer forces between the two tires off road.
I think you meant to say they are a compromise from a more rigid bar that would better control body roll on the road?
Mike Shull
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- #286
@EWheeler The Antirock is designed to keep the vehicle as level as possible through an obstacle. If the left-front compresses, the Antirock will push the right-rear down.
If the vehicle had sway bars to begin with, the Antirock setup could introduce more body roll than the stock setup. I don’t know what it will do to the Cruiser on-road.
Here is a great clip from John Currie. He does a better job explaining and I am still learning:
If the vehicle had sway bars to begin with, the Antirock setup could introduce more body roll than the stock setup. I don’t know what it will do to the Cruiser on-road.
Here is a great clip from John Currie. He does a better job explaining and I am still learning:
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Mike Shull
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- #287
Here is some literature from their website:
Antirock Sway Bars are designed to balance the vehicle’s front and rear suspension when off roading, resulting in better, more consistent traction. Additionally, off road sway bars never require disconnecting!
Antirock sway bar equipped vehicles will exhibit more body roll than vehicles equipped with the factory sway bars. Antirock sway bars may be used on the street, however, they do not provide the same handling characteristics as the factory sway bars.
www.rockjock4x4.com
Antirock Sway Bars are designed to balance the vehicle’s front and rear suspension when off roading, resulting in better, more consistent traction. Additionally, off road sway bars never require disconnecting!
Antirock sway bar equipped vehicles will exhibit more body roll than vehicles equipped with the factory sway bars. Antirock sway bars may be used on the street, however, they do not provide the same handling characteristics as the factory sway bars.
CE-9903-20B - Universal Antirock® Kit (32" Bar, Bent 20" Steel Arms)
DetailsRockJock® Universal Antirock® Sway Bar Kits are ideal for those building their own custom rigs and rock buggies!Antirock Sway Bars are designed to balance the vehicle’s front and rear suspension when off roading, resulting in better, more consistent traction. Additionally, off road sway...
Mike Shull
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- #288
Left fender for sale.
forum.ih8mud.com
For Sale - Denver CO: FJ40 Left Fender
$225. 1960s fender in great shape with only surface rust.
forum.ih8mud.com
Front Coilover Tower
Mike Shull
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Really turning out nice Keep at it you are close
Mike Shull
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- #291
More progress this weekend.
Mike Shull
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- #292
I am getting the feeling that everything is going to be custom 
Steering geometry
Mike Shull
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- #293
On the bright side, it’s going back together quite well.
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Mike Shull
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- #295
Maybe, but it’s too late for that.
Not sure if your links will be in the way, but I used center dump/block huggers. They definitely saved my bacon on packaging.
Mike Shull
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- #297
Thanks , Archie. I had center dump manifolds on my last engine and I wanted to try something different. I wouldn’t use these manifolds again though I think that they still might work. I’m slightly concerned with how close the slave might be to the manifold. I can’t remember which box my slave is in so I’ll keep looking and test fit that when it appears.
Mike Shull
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- #298
Is it okay to stack misalignment spacers like I did below?
My drag link is just about parallel to the panhard bar. I’ll bring it down another 0.4 degrees and finish cutting the spacers next weekend.
My drag link is just about parallel to the panhard bar. I’ll bring it down another 0.4 degrees and finish cutting the spacers next weekend.
As long as you cut an appropriate spacer for on top so that you can torque that bolt and put everything in between the upper and lower arms into compression, i think youre golden. Looking great Mike!
I would put a misalignment spacer on top and bottom of each heim. Probably not necessary for the tie rod as it really doesn't require any rotation of the heim, but I would still do it just because it just looks right with one on top and one on bottom.
