PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Nice work!
That looked nice to be on the water - was that fresh water? Salt?
That looked nice to be on the water - was that fresh water? Salt?
Builds 79 Aussie BJ55 build
- Thread starter brisveganbj42
- Start date
-
- Tags
- build thread builds
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #662
Beautiful family! 
- Thread starter
- #664
Ran out of wire before I could finish welding up the gearbox crossmember.. not a big deal.. got the majority done so will throw it on until it comes off again soon..
I'll be leaving the engine and gearbox in place while i see if the 80 series main tank fits between the pax chassis rail and the rear driveshaft. The body needs to come off the chassis again so all the mounts can get welded out.. But before that I'll also mount the rear fuel tank to the bodywork so I know theres clearance from the chassis.
I'll be leaving the engine and gearbox in place while i see if the 80 series main tank fits between the pax chassis rail and the rear driveshaft. The body needs to come off the chassis again so all the mounts can get welded out.. But before that I'll also mount the rear fuel tank to the bodywork so I know theres clearance from the chassis.
- Thread starter
- #665
Test fitted the 80 series main fuel tank (90L) and sub tanks (50L) and both are too long to fit after the chassis shortening.. The engine and transfer pushed all the way back may also be why its a tight fit.. its probably about 10-30mm too long.. but anyway.. if anything it simplifies things for me.
This is the 90L main tank..
Mocked up the rear tank again and confirmed what needs to be fabbed up to mount the tank straps.. unsure if i should go 3mm or 1.6mm that'll be boxed and welded to the existing 55 floor brace.
So now the engine and gearbox come out again.. body off and chassis outside for welding up.. this steering box/frame re-enforcement plates will go on at the same time..
Also got a few can's of this to do the chassis in.. Farm & Implement
while the chassis is out.. its finish off the body work!.. yay
This is the 90L main tank..
Mocked up the rear tank again and confirmed what needs to be fabbed up to mount the tank straps.. unsure if i should go 3mm or 1.6mm that'll be boxed and welded to the existing 55 floor brace.
So now the engine and gearbox come out again.. body off and chassis outside for welding up.. this steering box/frame re-enforcement plates will go on at the same time..
Also got a few can's of this to do the chassis in.. Farm & Implement
while the chassis is out.. its finish off the body work!.. yay
That kit looks pretty cool! Makes sense and really easy to do with everything apart.
Good beta
Good beta
Well Thursday last week was a public holiday for us and I managed to get the Friday off on leave, so the wife booked an AirBNB at Orford (about 1hr drive from home) and we stayed there for 3 nights..
I had wanted to get the gearbox crossmember and mounts in and tacked on but I only got to weld up some of the gearbox. mount..
The few days away were nice and got to spend some time with the family..
Tonight I got to get more done on the gearbox crossmember..
I was at coles bay that weekend and took the pig up , drove back Monday would of been good to get a passing honk on the hwy! Nothing as sweet as cruising up that stretch of road in the pig, bet you can't wait!
- Thread starter
- #668
Big effort tonight. Got the engine and gearbox out and away, body off the chassis and the chassis outside. Was a little easier with no springs and the 7.50r16s on..
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #669
Removed steering box and wire wheeled the chassis in prep for the steering brace and 2nd set of gearbox crossmember mounts. Hoping to get them tacked on tomorrow..
Nice progress!
- Thread starter
- #671
inner gearbox crossmember mounts
steering box brace kit tacked in
Will call the welding place tomorrow to get them to weld out the chassis..
steering box brace kit tacked in
Will call the welding place tomorrow to get them to weld out the chassis..
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Great work!!!
- Thread starter
- #673
Few things going on at the same time here..
CAD'ing various mounts for fuel tanks and rear lights..
I've started fabbing up the fuel tank mounts but nothing photo worthy yet.
Also tidying up the chassis and diffs for paint.. I'll need to remove all the break lines so I can give the diff a better clean with wire wheel prior to paint.
CAD'ing various mounts for fuel tanks and rear lights..
I've started fabbing up the fuel tank mounts but nothing photo worthy yet.
Also tidying up the chassis and diffs for paint.. I'll need to remove all the break lines so I can give the diff a better clean with wire wheel prior to paint.
- Thread starter
- #674
more work on the fueltank mounts to weld to the body.
3mm plate with nuts welded to it..
I'll be trying to wedge this 3mm U on the inside and weld it in place.. and will weld nuts to it too.. I did holes on both sides incase i want to mount other stuff in the space in front of the tank..
3mm plate with nuts welded to it..
I'll be trying to wedge this 3mm U on the inside and weld it in place.. and will weld nuts to it too.. I did holes on both sides incase i want to mount other stuff in the space in front of the tank..
Very creative.
- Thread starter
- #676
Whats everyones thoughts on removing the underbody sound deadener? I was going to wire wheel it all off so could have fresh paint and seam sealer but its a big job. It will be painted over again anyway too.. dont mind doing the bits that need it for rust repairs or fab work... ..
Lot of guys use the dry ice method. Let it sit for a little while and hit with a hammer. Should come off in chunks. How you manage to do that when its upside down I'm not sure, maybe just sit the bag on the inside?
RUSH55
SILVER Star
Scrape if you can. Try the wire wheel if it’s brittle enough to not smear into the surface. Biggest thing is you want to try to avoid lodging into the grain of the metal and make it more difficult to get the residue out. I used a combination of brake-clean and acetone with rags to clean any residues after removal. That stuff is some kind of petroleum-based product, and if not completely removed would probably cause a lot of paint adhesion issues.
I have read that Toyota actually sprayed seam sealer on the bottom of the pans and wheel wells. Not sure if that's correct or not. I know the interior sound deadening is definitely asphalt based. A heat gun and scraper will get it off fairly easily. Final cleanup as Rush55 said with acetone and/or brake clean.
I used heat and a scraper as well.
