What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (39 Viewers)

[knuckle47]

I lucked out on the fuel pump block-off. Mosley Motors Sniper kit had it sorted out way before I could screw it up…perfect fit. I also used Permatex on the valve cover gasket but it has a raised center ridge and fits nicely in the grooved base of the valve cover and is dry as a bone. The new gasket ain’t cheap for this version

 

[Pighead]

Sounds like @Pighead getting a pig to fly!

Flying days (avatar) are long past. Put all my money into going slow. Rubithon in two weeks. Getting a Pig ready to crawl.

 

[Tomba]

Doing an oil pan on a new to me 2F, found this near miss-

View attachment 3925549

doooh

 

[Beehanger]

I found mine at O'Reilly's. Closer and cheaper than OEM, seems to work.

View attachment 3925514

WIll this version work on the Fj60 2f valve cover? IH8 the rubber gasket that comes with it, always falls out putting it on. PITA.

Do you Reuse it?

Dan

 

[Pighead]

WIll this version work on the Fj60 2f valve cover? IH8 the rubber gasket that comes with it, always falls out putting it on. PITA.

Do you Reuse it?

Dan

Completely different valve covers. Use the rubber gasket only. I bet there's a way to make it work

 

[flee]

Out with the old, in with the new thanks to @shipmag! A top quality product by the way. (That's the 62 year old original sitting on the grab bar.)

Now the curtains match the drapes:

 

[Skreddy]

WIll this version work on the Fj60 2f valve cover? IH8 the rubber gasket that comes with it, always falls out putting it on. PITA.

Do you Reuse it?

Dan

Next time it’s off, put a tiny dab of black rtv every 6” or so and on each corner, then stick the gasket in. This will keep it from falling out.

 

[nabbasi]

I drove her! But she didn't work very well, and I had to be towed back to the shop by a Jeep, then a different jeep, and then a side by side.

Once warm, I was losing power and then the engine would shut off. I kept thinking it was fuel-related, but the bowl still had fuel, and spark was yellow/ orange, not blue/ white. Primary resistance reads 1.6 Ω. Secondary reads 15.9 k Ω. Just slightly out of spec, but it was also VERY HOT.

And for good measure, the fuel gauge has stopped working!

 

[MatthewMcD]

Out with the old and in with the new. Thanks @Coolerman!!

Next up, new alternator.

 

[Pighead]

I did a wiring thing, and I am not a wirer. Electricity is a type of magic and insulation is a myth. And I do not have an overheating problem, I swear I do not. It only got hot that one time, on the Rubithon, in the afternoon, crawling in low/low/1st uphill for a long time temp got up to the mid 230s, which was new.
So, 2 weeks before Rubithon, I decided to address that. New waterpump, new fanbelts, new aluminum radiator and now a little fan maybe to help when the speeds get real slow. I just needed to get the electricity to do what I want when I want. A small box from Painless helped. Now I've got fingertip convenience for the fan AND my rocklights. Need to find two more electrical things to power to fill the empty spots in my switch panel.

 

[RedOx]

Cut off one of the old rear brake lines and fabricated new one. Installing last pair of rear cylinders tomorrow. Going to learn how to install LED flasher module tomorrow. Will attempt to rebuild doors and paint them tomorrow. Hydrochloric acid works great for derusting brake drums. Industrial strength vinegar works best for derusting bolts, nuts, and smaller parts.

 

[fj40fillet]

I drove her! But she didn't work very well, and I had to be towed back to the shop by a Jeep, then a different jeep, and then a side by side.

Once warm, I was losing power and then the engine would shut off. I kept thinking it was fuel-related, but the bowl still had fuel, and spark was yellow/ orange, not blue/ white. Primary resistance reads 1.6 Ω. Secondary reads 15.9 k Ω. Just slightly out of spec, but it was also VERY HOT.

View attachment 3926300


And for good measure, the fuel gauge has stopped working!

Not much worse in life then having you FJ40 towed or pulled out a jeep. LOL

 

[nabbasi]

Not much worse in life then having you FJ40 towed or pulled out a jeep. LOL

Tell me about. They shamed me. First was with a CJ5 you see in that picture. Then a JK (2007?). I’ve gotta figure this coil/ igniter issue out!

 

[sleepycruiser]

Tell me about. They shamed me. First was with a CJ5 you see in that picture. Then a JK (2007?). I’ve gotta figure this coil/ igniter issue out!

I would take a non-running FJ40 over a running Jeep.

 

[Chungas Revenge]

I did a wiring thing, and I am not a wirer. Electricity is a type of magic.

Witchcraft and sorcery…️

 

[igotta40]

After only 51 years this boot had to be replaced on my alternator. Cheap Toyota junk.

 

[einstein]

Put on my 4 plus rear tire carrier, with some bilsteins and some pro comp leaf springs with some anti inversion shackles. Rides soo much better had about 1/2 inch of travel before.

 

[igotta40]

I heard an exhaust leak, it actually turned out to be two leaks. One was in the collector, which I was able to repair with torch & brass rod. I’m happy about that because the cost of new ones has gotten ridiculous. Not pretty but it worked. Also replaced the gaskets on both ends of the header. Here’s the Toyota gasket, stud and nut part numbers FYI.

 

[nabbasi]

I spent some time on the ignition issue on the 1978. Coil seems fine upon further testing. Once the engine is warm, the spark becomes very weak and barely fires and then stalls. The spark is definitely not strong - it is an orange/ yellow color. Not white/ blue. And both the coil and igniter are very, very hot. Too hot to touch.

I ran through most of the checks in the manual, but the only thing I couldn't verify was 12V power from the resistor wire from the ignition switch, but I was a little confused as to how to actually test for 12V with it unplugged. Or why it ever would be. Time to search deeper into the history.

 

[Trigger6]

I spent some time on the ignition issue on the 1978. Coil seems fine upon further testing. Once the engine is warm, the spark becomes very weak and barely fires and then stalls. The spark is definitely not strong - it is an orange/ yellow color. Not white/ blue. And both the coil and igniter are very, very hot. Too hot to touch.



I ran through most of the checks in the manual, but the only thing I couldn't verify was 12V power from the resistor wire from the ignition switch, but I was a little confused as to how to actually test for 12V with it unplugged. Or why it ever would be. Time to search deeper into the history.

It would be easy enough to just swap out the coil (coils are fairly inexpensive) and temporarily disconnect the ignitor…. if nothing else, it would at least confirm its the coil and/or ignitor really causing the issue. The ignitor is not required for the engine to run, it only extends the life of the points.