I found that valve cover at a PMC swap meet many years ago, paid 20 bucks for it. Pardion had one for sale a few months ago...
Yes, Penntex voltage regulator for the Hehr 120 amp. alternator
Thank you.
Pull the solenoid off the carb. 2 phillips screws. Ground the solenoid and give the hot wire 12v. The rod sticking out of the solenoid should move in. If you want to permanently disable the solenoid just cut off the rod.
Well, thank you very much for the kind offer Mr. toyotamatt. Perhaps save them gaskets for one who can fully appreciate them. Up here in the woods, we sorta appreciate self-sufficiency above originality of gaskets. And I'm not gonna open up my...
So, the fuel in the floatbowl disappears after a hot shut down? That is unacceptable. What if, just for fun, you re-filled your floatbowl before a hot restart?
I vaguely recall a thread mentioning a siphon type carb phenomenon, but paid little...
If the master piston was sticking and not giving full travel it might keep the slave piston from retracting fully. I think.
You should always usually rebuild or replace the clutch cylinders as a pair. Rebuild kits are not expensive and Kurt...
Yes, the one on the outside. It should be right up against the end of the pushrod. Maybe adjust/lengthen the pushrod?
A cylinder rebuild might be due after 15 years...
Good.
I had my machine shop order the parts and pieces for me to assemble, that way it all fit. I had the rotating bits balanced. You're going to need a big engine stand. No, bigger than that...
Rebuild it yourself. You can probably find a good machine shop in town. Any shop that can work on an old Chevy straight six can work on a 2F.
They are not hard to rebuild, just kinda heavy.
I rebuilt my 2F about 20 years ago. First try. Still...
I'm going to guess that your carb was built on January 13 1978. Your blocked off line was probably for some smog gizmo like EGR or somesuch that was used in 78 but not 76.
The clean side of your carb is probably the secondary which isn't...
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