What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?

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knuckle47 said:
@nabbasi i was reading this yesterday. Maybe there is something in these post that can benefit your situation

forum.ih8mud.com

FJ 40 electronic ignition upgrade

forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com
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Thanks! I don't think I had stumbled across that one yet. They discuss the same thing I was thinking, which is that the ideal solution would be to figure out what isn't working and stay with a working 78-80 system or just run a wire without a resistor from the ignition switch and install a pertronix 1662LS. I've installed 2 or 3 of these in different vehicles (not toyotas), and had 1 fail (although it was after about 7 or 8 years).

I'm going to see what I can do to bypass the igniter and see if I can narrow it down to coil/ igniter. I've got a replacement aftermarket 78 coil on the way from cityracer right now.

I'm also starting to wonder if my "running out of fuel" situation from my first long drive was related to this same exact issue. The symptoms are the same, and it was fine once it cooled down (and had adequate fuel and a good battery).

Does anybody else have moments where you suddenly feel like you have no idea how vehicles work?
 
nabbasi said:
Does anybody else have moments where you suddenly feel like you have no idea how vehicles work?
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Yes, usually after I solve a big issue and feel like I "finally really understand" then boom...wtf?
Take a breath, and rely on the basic troubleshooting. For the ignition, having spare parts is helpful, but the thing that helped me the most was a good test light or multi meter. My issue was the little plastic insulator on the side of the distributor. As it degraded it "leaked" more and more ground until it just fell out and the truck died. No spark.

I traced everything and found the ground issue when the points open and closed did not matter.
Not that it's your issue, but here is the thread: No Spark Troubleshooting - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/no-spark-troubleshooting.1331245/post-15449413
 
MatthewMcD said:
At least your plug has held up. Mine disintegrated. Where did you source the boot and how good is the fit? I grabbed one on Amazon but the fit is sloppy.
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I chose this one. Time will tell how well it holds up. It seems to be made of silicone. The fit is “adequate” . I think the amazon merchant is J Quad.

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MatthewMcD said:
Yes, usually after I solve a big issue and feel like I "finally really understand" then boom...wtf?
Take a breath, and rely on the basic troubleshooting. For the ignition, having spare parts is helpful, but the thing that helped me the most was a good test light or multi meter. My issue was the little plastic insulator on the side of the distributor. As it degraded it "leaked" more and more ground until it just fell out and the truck died. No spark.

I traced everything and found the ground issue when the points open and closed did not matter.
Not that it's your issue, but here is the thread: No Spark Troubleshooting - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/no-spark-troubleshooting.1331245/post-15449413
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Yeah that’s a tough one to run down. My ground wire broke inside the insulation, my ohm meter found it for me. I was losing my mind. Now it’s one of my first suggestions troubleshooting a no start problem , to use a jumper wire there.
 
igotta40 said:
I heard an exhaust leak, it actually turned out to be two leaks. One was in the collector, which I was able to repair with torch & brass rod. I’m happy about that because the cost of new ones has gotten ridiculous. Not pretty but it worked. Also replaced the gaskets on both ends of the header. Here’s the Toyota gasket, stud and nut part numbers FYI.

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Been having an ongoing issue with my TriMil/ JToutfitters header sealing. I even had the header machined and installed shims, on a remflex gasket. Is this the same header? Have you had good luck until now?

What came with my exhaust leaks is also a massive intake leak that compromised my break in. Likely because of the header, since it’s a straight 6 it seems it pulls the intake off from sealing as well, with the shared bolts. It’s right on cylinder 3 tons fluctuate with brake cleaner spray. Tried the job 4 times and never got it to seal properly after all of that. Didn’t know how big the leak was till I went down in elevation

How long did yours stay sealed for until this popped up?

Did it cause an intake leak for you as well?

Hopefully you get yours to work,

Thanks

Dan
 
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Beehanger said:
Been having an ongoing issue with my TriMil/ JToutfitters header sealing. I even had the header machined and installed shims, on a remflex gasket. Is this the same header? Have you had good luck until now?

What came with my exhaust leaks is also a massive intake leak that compromised my break in. Likely because of the header, since it’s a straight 6 it seems it pulls the intake off from sealing as well, with the shared bolts. It’s right on cylinder 3 tons fluctuate with brake cleaner spray. Tried the job 4 times and never got it to seal properly after all of that. Didn’t know how big the leak was till I went down in elevation

How long did yours stay sealed for until this popped up?

Did it cause an intake leak for you as well?

Hopefully you get yours to work,

Thanks

Dan
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Mine is a Man A Fre header probably from the mid to late 1980’s. It’s the third one, the first two rusted at the collector pretty quickly. This one was the chrome plated option and lasted close to 40 years until I just repaired it, maybe it will go a little longer. Never had a problem with it sealing. The last time it was bolted on was after the motor overhaul in 2008. No intake leaks. I use factory Toyota gasket.

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igotta40 said:
Mine is a Man A Fre header probably from the mid to late 1980’s. It’s the third one, the first two rusted at the collector pretty quickly. This one was the chrome plated option and lasted close to 40 years until I just repaired it, maybe it will go a little longer. Never had a problem with it sealing. The last time it was bolted on was after the motor overhaul in 2008. No intake leaks. I use factory Toyota gasket.

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What paint did you use for the manifold??
 
As @pismojim said 20 years ago, if it weren’t for shoplights, pizza, and trip deadlines, we’d never finish our trucks!

I’ve got another wheeling trip planned, and I had a vague memory that the inline fuel pump on my aux tank wasn’t working any more. Pulled the switch and sure enough nothing. Since I had about five other last minute things that I needed to get done, along with the honey-do’s it takes to keep the misses happy, I decided to take the day off and work on them from home. Put the new fuel pump, hoses, clamps and mounting screws in the Karma Cruiser and called it good.

I got under the truck and drew a blank. I’m sure Tony (the PO) paid me to install the tank, but that was over 30 years ago! And I happened to have a cruiserhead friend who was unemployed at the time hanging out at the shop. So, I’m going with the idea that I paid him to install the tank. Parts of the removal of the old pump required enough contortions that I’m sure I would remember if I did it!

So, I get the new pump mounted and go to hook up the wiring, and of course, it’s different! To make matters worse, I didn’t remember to bring home any wire or solderless terminals. But wait! Surely there’s some in the bowels of Ruftoys cavernous center console. I spend a few minutes reuniting with random bits from my Rubithon days until I find IT! Ah yes, IT! The Rubik’s cube of terminal boxes!

Once an ordinary plastic divider, it bears colorful witness to the transformation of my exhaust system. In 2007 my wife and I had taken a road trip to Colorado in our Suburban, and on the way back I stopped in Vegas to pick up a Flowmaster exhaust system from @Mace that had been fitted to the exact same TriY header that I was already running in Ruftoys . I bolted it in straightaway when we got home, and the truck has had a healthy rumble ever since. Along with some very warm floorboards!

When I arrived at the Ice House in 2008 for the Rubithon, most of my club’s members were already there. @bushpilot ‘s dad @Tencup was having an issue with his CB and needed a solderless terminal. Well, I hopped right on getting him one, only to discover that I now needed a hacksaw just to get the lid off!

Here’s what’s left, 17 years later
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Pighead said:
Needed more Fluid Film, run to my FLAPS, saw the new Blaster competition next to it on the shelf. Been meaning to try it, will perform some very unscientific tests later today.

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Have completed an inexhaustive thoroughly un-scientific study involving two cans of each, I can confidently state that they're pretty much the same. PB doesn't smell like Lanolin as much.
Research indicates that early on, there were complaints about the spray of the PB, nozzles clogging and not spraying, and such. I'm thinking they fixed that. I liked the spray of the PB over the FF, was foggier where the FF seemed more streamlike. PB cans seemed to last longer and were less sensitive to the position of the can.
So, interchangeable, buy whatevers on sale
 
I sprayed down the axles & surroundings with Fluid Film and PB shield, topped up the diffs and installed the new and improved fill plugs. Checked knuckle studs, top AND bottom, they were fine, checked driveshaft bolts, fronts were loose. Finished relocating the winch control back to the top of the winch. Added a winch cut-off switch. Put my grill back on but deleted the little valance below it just to improve airflow

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Derusted some of the seatbelt mounts and primered for some morning painting. Impact and drill wire brushes, industrial strength vinegar, and brake cleaner work wonders. Having to postpone door rebuild. Finally got seatbelt installed. Will need to create a better spot for seatbelt roller. Finally got the hoses finished last week. Zero gas smell. Will cut floor pan and weld a more streamlined bracket for tank later so I can use the original gas inlet again. CF14 module install and clutch replacement are next. Will be cutting new hole new hard gas line later on. I could keep going but I'll stop there for now.

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