doooh
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week?
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
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WIll this version work on the Fj60 2f valve cover? IH8 the rubber gasket that comes with it, always falls out putting it on. PITA.
Do you Reuse it?
Dan
Completely different valve covers. Use the rubber gasket only. I bet there's a way to make it work
Skreddy
SILVER Star
Next time it’s off, put a tiny dab of black rtv every 6” or so and on each corner, then stick the gasket in. This will keep it from falling out.
nabbasi
SILVER Star
I drove her! But she didn't work very well, and I had to be towed back to the shop by a Jeep, then a different jeep, and then a side by side.
Once warm, I was losing power and then the engine would shut off. I kept thinking it was fuel-related, but the bowl still had fuel, and spark was yellow/ orange, not blue/ white. Primary resistance reads 1.6 Ω. Secondary reads 15.9 k Ω. Just slightly out of spec, but it was also VERY HOT.
And for good measure, the fuel gauge has stopped working!
Once warm, I was losing power and then the engine would shut off. I kept thinking it was fuel-related, but the bowl still had fuel, and spark was yellow/ orange, not blue/ white. Primary resistance reads 1.6 Ω. Secondary reads 15.9 k Ω. Just slightly out of spec, but it was also VERY HOT.
And for good measure, the fuel gauge has stopped working!
MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
I did a wiring thing, and I am not a wirer. Electricity is a type of magic and insulation is a myth. And I do not have an overheating problem, I swear I do not. It only got hot that one time, on the Rubithon, in the afternoon, crawling in low/low/1st uphill for a long time temp got up to the mid 230s, which was new.
So, 2 weeks before Rubithon, I decided to address that. New waterpump, new fanbelts, new aluminum radiator and now a little fan maybe to help when the speeds get real slow. I just needed to get the electricity to do what I want when I want. A small box from Painless helped. Now I've got fingertip convenience for the fan AND my rocklights. Need to find two more electrical things to power to fill the empty spots in my switch panel.
So, 2 weeks before Rubithon, I decided to address that. New waterpump, new fanbelts, new aluminum radiator and now a little fan maybe to help when the speeds get real slow. I just needed to get the electricity to do what I want when I want. A small box from Painless helped. Now I've got fingertip convenience for the fan AND my rocklights. Need to find two more electrical things to power to fill the empty spots in my switch panel.
Cut off one of the old rear brake lines and fabricated new one. Installing last pair of rear cylinders tomorrow. Going to learn how to install LED flasher module tomorrow. Will attempt to rebuild doors and paint them tomorrow. Hydrochloric acid works great for derusting brake drums. Industrial strength vinegar works best for derusting bolts, nuts, and smaller parts.
Not much worse in life then having you FJ40 towed or pulled out a jeep. LOL
nabbasi
SILVER Star
Tell me about. They shamed me. First was with a CJ5 you see in that picture. Then a JK (2007?). I’ve gotta figure this coil/ igniter issue out!
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive
I would take a non-running FJ40 over a running Jeep.
I did a wiring thing, and I am not a wirer. Electricity is a type of magic.
Witchcraft and sorcery…️
After only 51 years this boot had to be replaced on my alternator. Cheap Toyota junk.
I heard an exhaust leak, it actually turned out to be two leaks. One was in the collector, which I was able to repair with torch & brass rod. I’m happy about that because the cost of new ones has gotten ridiculous. Not pretty but it worked. Also replaced the gaskets on both ends of the header. Here’s the Toyota gasket, stud and nut part numbers FYI.
nabbasi
SILVER Star
I spent some time on the ignition issue on the 1978. Coil seems fine upon further testing. Once the engine is warm, the spark becomes very weak and barely fires and then stalls. The spark is definitely not strong - it is an orange/ yellow color. Not white/ blue. And both the coil and igniter are very, very hot. Too hot to touch.
I ran through most of the checks in the manual, but the only thing I couldn't verify was 12V power from the resistor wire from the ignition switch, but I was a little confused as to how to actually test for 12V with it unplugged. Or why it ever would be. Time to search deeper into the history.
I ran through most of the checks in the manual, but the only thing I couldn't verify was 12V power from the resistor wire from the ignition switch, but I was a little confused as to how to actually test for 12V with it unplugged. Or why it ever would be. Time to search deeper into the history.
It would be easy enough to just swap out the coil (coils are fairly inexpensive) and temporarily disconnect the ignitor…. if nothing else, it would at least confirm its the coil and/or ignitor really causing the issue. The ignitor is not required for the engine to run, it only extends the life of the points.
The NV4500/Orion is on it's way back from Georg at Valley Hybrids and I found a stock tire carrier from Mark's Offroad, which I'll pick up next week.
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nabbasi
SILVER Star
You’ve confirmed my plan. I had a coil on order, and was going to try that.
I thought the 1978 was fully electronic? I haven’t even checked under the cap.