Pighead

You don't really want vacuum to go to a vac retard dizzy, maybe someone blocked the hose. You have a later model carb on an early manifold, the carbs are different, the manifds are different, the air cleaner is not going line up. There should...

Did that thing where you take an extra head bolt and cut a groove in it then run it in and out of the head bolt holes to make sure they are all clear or something.

I think that's what the date code says. I got the Pig in 1986 and probably rebuilt the carb right away. That was before 'Mud and even the LCML. I think I rebuilt the carb every year for the first 14 years. Then I sent it to Jim C. when I rebuilt...

Stop calling it an FJ

Sure, the jets could be causing the rough running. Could just as easily be something else. Half of all carb problems are really electrical problems. A 60 might have the High Altitude Compensation gizmo but the 40 doesn't, so the 40 may need more...

for the deadline tomorrow, I might plug the vac line from carb to dizzy, advance timing as it tolerates, adjust valves to FSM specs, lean out the air mix screw and see how it drives. Things I might consider for the future; swap the retard dizzy...

as for top speed, one wonders if his secondary is opening. I H8 vacuum secondaries. You're familiar with the paper clip test?

A vacuum advance dizzy would have the diaphragm mounted to the right-hand side of the dizzy (pretty much where it would bump into the oil filter on a 2F) so that the inner plate would rotate counterclockwise with vacuum applied. Often has a...

I don't see a fan clutch, looks to be direct drive. Looks like just a late model vacuum secondary carb added to an old F engine.

I am NOT a brake expert, nor have I read what you've read. I have run the stock '74 55 master cylinder with 4 wheel drums, with Toyota front discs then with Poser rear discs. Then added the 80 master. I have never run, nor felt the need for, a...

Water pouring into the pan would indicate freeze plug to me, a crack would just seep

How much water came out?

Starting to look better...

Vacuum numbers look OK for your elevation. Sometimes these engines like a bit more timing advance than the manual calls for. Some recommend closer to 17* BTDC instead of the stock 7*. Make sure it has a vacuum advance dizzy as opposed to a vacuum...

Around here, up in the hills, the value of a Pig is not what you can get for it but what it can do for you. We get snow, sometimes a lot of snow. When we get a lot of snow the power goes out and my Pig is the only vehicle we own that can get into...

It's an air space that oil drips through to get back to the oilpan. So usually not filled with oil, unless your oilpan is full of water.

There are a few freeze plugs in the block and head, theoretically, they will pop out before the block cracks. Look at those plugs, If they look normal I'd start it up and see how it runs, look for new leaks...

Being able to keep the engine running only with the choke pulled at least halfway out is a classic sign of the fuel cutoff solenoid not working, I would look at that first.

That looks Mickey Mouse

You may have me there, I did throw that term out fairly recklessly. But I am skipping Pebble Beach this year. Jim C. sells it, I figure it's what he uses, I want it.

Let me see if I understand correctly; you want to find a used odo just like yours but with turning dials and legible numbers? Because your numbers are faded and the dials don't turn and you can't find a picture of how it comes apart? But you did...

Jim C. sells a set of correct plugs at a very reasonable price.

Thinking I might rebuild this while it's off, it looks dirty.

Compared head gaskets. I had ordered one from @cruiseroutfit in February but they was backordered and had to send to Japan for one. Finally showed up. I really must give Kurt credit for the packaging though, I do get a bit nervous about them...

This carb is really dirty. Maybe I'll clean it up a bit.