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EFR's are great turbo's I am running a 7670 on my 1FZ, well be very interested to see how the 6258 does it is a pretty tiny turbo. Did you happen to have a chance to PM Htownfire? His 55 is incredible and he also used a 4bt but I think he has several things he would change. Might just save you some time....

...via IH8MUD app
 
The map on the Borg Warner EFR 6258 it actually larger than the HX30w or the he221 but has a lightweight turbine and ball bearings to give it a fast spoolup, it should be good for around 36psi on a 4BT that spins to 3,200rpm.
This all works on paper and I’m hoping my reality matches my theoretical world!
I will definitely shoot Htownfire a PM when I get closer to tearing this pig apart to start throwing all these new parts at it.

Thnks!
 
Thanks for the info on the gears, I had only seen the AA 4:1 gears for split cases which would net you less OD.

http://www.advanceadapters.com/prod...34mm-cases-require-the-additional-kit-716934/

I actually went the other way on gearing with mine, swapped from stock ('79) 3:73s to 4:11s then a H55 with the lower 1st gear. I'm running a MB OM617 that's not happy unless the turbo is spooled up ;). Motor looks shiny ...

Tucker
 
I had ordered the 08/1980 to 10/1982 kit and got a 1984 T-case.
A call to Marks 4WD and I have the new input gear coming, it appears the early cases ran the seal on the input shaft and the later cases ran the seal on the gear.
Thanks guys for the heads up.
 
The dash panels are very easy to make.
Your local plastic dealer will cut to size for you and you can drill your holes to fit your needs. The bend on the bottom is not needed if you didn't want to do it and I used the factory screw locations so I could reinstall the factory dash later if for some reason I didn't like this one.

When I get closer to tearing this 55 apart and making the new dash I will have my plastic dealer cut you extra panels but at this moment I'm stalled with some parts issues so it could be later in the year before I get to that part.

This is another picture of just the dash panels.

IMG_20131013_182538_449.jpg
 
J Mack said:
The dash panels are very easy to make.
Your local plastic dealer will cut to size for you and you can drill your holes to fit your needs. The bend on the bottom is not needed if you didn't want to do it and I used the factory screw locations so I could reinstall the factory dash later if for some reason I didn't like this one.

When I get closer to tearing this 55 apart and making the new dash I will have my plastic dealer cut you extra panels but at this moment I'm stalled with some parts issues so it could be later in the year before I get to that part.

This is another picture of just the dash panels.
Click to expand...

So am understanding correctly that your plan is to have a dash 'proper' cnc machined from aluminum and then attach these front panels made out of plastic?

I too am really liking your dash solution. Just trying to make sure I fully understand what you're doing before I try to sweet talk you into letting me copy off of you :D
 
My thought was to have mine CNC machined out of aluminum and anodized or make it out of Kydex on my manual machine, it’s just timing when I get to that part if I can wait on the aluminum panels or not.
You are welcome to copy these and I will even send you a print to help locate holes.

These are basically just flat panels with holes drilled in them something you could make with a skill saw and drill.

My forward progress has been halted with some parts issues and it may take some time for me to get back going in the right direction but I’m happy to help anyone that wants make their own dash.
 
So are the flat panels just being bolted to the stock dash, or did you replace the body of the dash as well? The dash pic in your original post didn't look stock to me, but then again, the only dash i've seen in a pig is mine which isn't a great example


Sent from my iPad
 
I added some filler panels between the sections so I could add nutserts for the bottom screws that line up with the original screw holes on the top.
So basically yes this dash would bolt in place of the factory dash and could be removed and the factory dash reinstalled with minimal effort.
I am also using the factory heater with a rotary switch controlling the blower and Jeep push/pull cables working the flap doors.
 
arcteryx said:
post pics of that when you get them, I'd like to see these!
Click to expand...

Marks gear on the left.
http://s1348.photobucket.com/user/mackplastering/media/IMG_20140310_162340_818_zps7f7efce4.jpg.html

Marks gear on the left is a little more heavy duty than the factory Toyota gear on the right.


Marks gear on the left uses roller bearings the factory Toyota gear on the right uses bushings.




Marks gear on the left uses roller bearings the factory Toyota gear on the right uses bushings.





Both of the Marks input gears.
Top gear is for pre 1982 split cases and bottom is post 1982.




Tapered roller bearings on the idler shaft.




Both 34mm and 38mm cases use the same idler shaft with a case adapter.


 
Last edited:
J Mack,


Is there any machining involved with using the Mark's gear set? Another words, can I guy like me just rebuild a case using those gears? They look good.
 
Ron,

It looks like a little grinding inside one of the case half’s for clearance on the larger gear.
10 minutes with a non-ferrous grinding wheel on my angle grinder should do it!

Did you ever get your AC figured out?
I just got conformation mine shipped and I should have it Thursday if you need me to get any measurements for you.
 
No I didn't. My Wife grabbed me for some house painting. Another week and I should be back! I hope...
 
I considered those gears when I had my 4BT powered 80 series, but in the end I was able to source 3.70 Toyota OEM hi-pinion gears to get the RPMs down.

The only complaint I've heard with those gears is some extra tcase gear noise.
 
davegonz said:
The only complaint I've heard with those gears is some extra tcase gear noise.
Click to expand...



I have heard the same thing about the gear noise and in fact they mention these gears are not and will never be as quiet as the original Toyota gears, the reason for this is the tooth profile required to achieve the ratios. We have experimented with different types of synthetic oils and found that Castrol Optimol Optigear will help to reduce gear noise.


Considering I’m putting a Cummins 4BT engine in and have Mud Terrain tires I was thinking how bad can they be? Famous last words right!
 
henry morgan said:
Holy skid mark on new white undies Batman.... This is a great build.
Click to expand...

Thank you!





There was some conflicting information on the output shaft. The manual says shaft Min should be 40.009MM or 1.5752” and this is where my shaft was. Marks 4WD says shaft MAX should be 40.000mm or 1.5748” so I need to polish .0004” off my shaft to accommodate the needle bearings the kit.


http://s1348.photobucket.com/user/mackplastering/media/IMG_20140313_131133_610_zps15e4d638.jpg.html



Grinding the case only took a few minutes with an aluminum grinding wheel.



http://s1348.photobucket.com/user/mackplastering/media/IMG_20140313_141431_693_zps999016d3.jpg.html



AC unit showed up to day and these are some quick pictures to show size.


http://s1348.photobucket.com/user/mackplastering/media/IMG_20140313_145239_452_zpsbcdc0ba9.jpg.html

At first glance it looks like it will be a good fit.






http://s1348.photobucket.com/user/mackplastering/media/IMG_20140313_145624_731_zps91769e1a.jpg.html
 
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