GA 55 left in woods for 20 yrs- 10/73 model (1 Viewer)

[Midgainc]

Ok, in case you haven't read about my piece, look up under the Toyota tech 40/55 forum. The title is "Just Purchased FJ55, bad shape, now what?" I have a few pics there about its condition and my dilemma. Tomorrow, I will pull the head off the apparent oem F1 and see which cylinder is causing the lockup. I recently purchased another parts vehicle for some drivetrain and body parts, and I have been scouting around for parts here and there. This adventure is like an old man's version of a scavenger hunt! Fortunately, there are guys like you and this forum to help. I would like to think that the old beast has a long life ahead of it, but it will take a tremendous amount of work to get it ready for that.

I would like to get the F1 serviceable again, and keep the drivetrain original as much as possible. Not because it is value related, but to preserve the original Landcruiser experience. I would like to get the windows and doors all operational, and preserve the frame, sheet metal, and underside. I do not have plans to make it a museum piece or hangar queen. I want to drive it to my hunting club or on nice day, beat around town in it. I think the front disk brake conversion is doable, along with a old man emu spring swap. Power steering could be a nice addition for later. So, you guys please chime in .

To give you an idea of what else I am working on, last night I put the engine- trans unit in my 78 chevy c-10 frame off rebuild, and today, started putting things on the inside and outside of the firewall. I hope to be done with this by the end of the summer, and I hope to be riding in my cruiser by then also. I will post photos of the removed head tomorrow.

 

[bobm]

Welcome, Now you are in the right spot. All sorts of knowledge here.

Thanks Bob.

 

[PabloCruise]

So your Pig had been left in the GA woods for 20 years? Wow...

Sounds good to pull the head, but don't forget that the hang-up could be from the bottom end.
Have you dropped the pan? You could do that and then take off one bearing cap at a time (maybe Mains first and then Rods?) and look at the bearings.

If you do drop the pan you can see if there is any debris there.
Good luck!

PS: the power steering mod is very nice! I recommend the 60 series.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Welcome to the club! I'm sure you know with it sitting in the humid south for 20 years, everything in the motor is going to be rusted. My guess is you're going to be tearing the motor down and rebuilding it from the ground up.

That starts you on the slippery slope, as to what to spend money on or replace with new. You're right in pulling the head and pan, to get a good look at stuff and that carb is going to be toast, at the least a rebuild.

I wish you good luck and pray you have an understanding Wife.

Take it slow and have some fun.

 

[Delancy]

Now you are in the right spot.

X2.

Glad you made it here, finally.

 

[Midgainc]

It feels like home here.


I will try to pry the head up tomorrow, and from there see whats up. If not clear, then the engine is coming out later this week, so I can flip it over. There is no evidence of water in the pan, but I have not drained it yet. I am still soaking the top end. I will shoot some photos when I pull the head and post them for your opinion. Thanks guys.

 

[Pighead]

It feels like home here.


I will try to pry the head up tomorrow, and from there see whats up.

Don't forget that middle headbolt under the rocker arm...

 

[Midgainc]

I looked at the disassembly chart and made sure that I took out 15 bolts. On a different note. See photo below of the water pump bolts that I screwed back into the block. IS the upper right bolt the correct one? It is the odd man out of the bolt set.

 

[Pighead]

IS the upper right bolt the correct one?

Probably. There's often a spacer and then the tensioner arm for the alt off that bolt.

 

[Midgainc]

took the head off today.......

its been a rainy night in Georgia....I filled the holes with transmission fluid and lacquer thinner to try and break the pistons free. it looks like three of them are the culprit. I took the head to the machine shop. They said it looks like the head gasket was blown when it was parked, which would explain why the rust etc in some of the cylinders. I am going to assess the head. If it doesnt need much work to be re-worked, I am going for it. I found a machine shop in Utah that has an entire master rebuild kit including cam for $1100, less the oil pump. I can get the block bored for $250. I am leaning that way. What do you guys think?

 

[Delancy]

That's on the shy side of what estimates I'd be given awhile back and know there's nuances to this particular blocks machinable material, but Pighead or Ige will be much more in depth with a reply regarding, I'm sure.

I'm a student, at this point.

Glad to see it being explored since embarking on a similar journey with a running F.

 

[PabloCruise]

That cylinder looks rusty...

 

[tucker74]

#2 looks ugly :-( I'd see what the machine shop says, depends on the kit I suppose. Would be cool to bring her back to life, prolly cheaper to go with a 2F -

Tucker

 

[Midgainc]

The machine shop said the head was fine, though warped. It should be ready Friday or Monday. I will likely pull the engine this weekend, and disassemble next week. I am crossing my fingers about the cylinder pitting. Supposedly, I can get pistons and rings in a master engine kit in various sizes. However, I have not found a source for an oil pump. Do any of you have ideas about where I can get one? New preferred, rebuilt, as a last resort.

 

[Delancy]

Best I've found is rebuilt at SOR

http://www.sor.com/cat034c.sor

What I've planned.

 

[PabloCruise]

Have the machine shop tap the oil galley in the head for an Allen screw.

 

[Midgainc]

I picked up the head yesterday before reading this. Why do you need to tap the oil galley?
I am certain there will be more trips there.

Today, I removed the front clip, most of the engine accessories, and the gas tank. There must have been 400 screws to remove! The clutch MC was rusted beyond repair, some of the brake lines twisted and are junk, there were several lower fender screws that broke, etc. however, I now have a decent look at the A pillar and front of the rocker. Most of the first 3 inches in all directions are history. I do have a question about the 4 lines coming out of the top DS of the gas tank. How can I delete these and the emissions controller that it vents to on the DS fender. It appears to be overkill. After seeing the cancer today, I now am resolved to remove all that I can, and weld in patch panels where necessary. After that is done, I am looking at a frame off cleaning, and IRAN. This may take awhile.....first order of business is the removal of the engine, disassembly and inspection to see if it can be rebuilt. I will post a few pics when I get to my office on Monday.

 

[nuclearlemon]

I picked up the head yesterday before reading this. Why do you need to tap the oil galley?
.

the plug that's in there is notorious for popping out causing you to lose all your oil and seize the block

 

[Delancy]

Kick ass!

Glad you're still in it and resolved to return to the road.

 

[Midgainc]

Where is this plug? I didn't study the head too much when I took it out because it was so dirty. It is still wrapped up from the machine shop and at my office. Monday, I will unwrap and see what you are talking about. I don't want to do this but once. By the way, the frame and body mounts look surprisingly good, all things considered.