Build Build Thread: Jim’s ‘55

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WarDamnEagle said:
I think the driver and passengers might need a quilted mat when that puppy cranks up!
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tucker74 said:
Holy guacamole Batman - that’s some shoehorning in a small space! What’s the plan for vents? Going to try and cover somehow? Maybe a quilted mat like was on the firewall …
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I do have the cover for the bottom of the HVAC module which should clean up the exposed passenger side of it, but I think the whole dash is going to get looked at for a refresh. The only original items from the center section that are going to remain are the rear window up/down toggle and the LandCruser emblem. I want to keep it as stock looking as possible at the instruments and glove box, but I think the middle might get a makeover that will allow for some vent louvers, the HVAC controls, some additional switches for who-knows-what, and stereo. Still noodling on that part. That’s what the rainy months are for. That,…and skiing.
 
Not really part of the “build”thread. Maybe it’s a “re-build” on this one. At some point since I brought her home in June ‘24, the passenger side shock absorber mount on the axle broke off. Noticed it this weekend, while putting on mufflers (finally!). Her are some before/during/after shots of my amateur weld repairs. I feel pretty good about the result, and what’s the worst that can happen- I end up with (another) broken shock absorber mount?
Ride felt solid after the repair. Took her out to test drive the mufflers and the shock mount. Freeway speeds (75!) felt stable, and the decibels were down about 10: from 95 to 85. Still too loud, but now it is the tranny, not the engine, that is the loudest.

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JLB206 said:
Not really part of the “build”thread. Maybe it’s a “re-build” on this one. At some point since I brought her home in June ‘24, the passenger side shock absorber mount on the axle broke off. Noticed it this weekend, while putting on mufflers (finally!). Her are some before/during/after shots of my amateur weld repairs. I feel pretty good about the result, and what’s the worst that can happen- I end up with (another) broken shock absorber mount?
Ride felt solid after the repair. Took her out to test drive the mufflers and the shock mount. Freeway speeds (75!) felt stable, and the decibels were down about 10: from 95 to 85. Still too loud, but now it is the tranny, not the engine, that is the loudest.

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Nice! It feels good to take care of things like that!
 
It’s been a while since a proper update, and this isn’t that- I’ve got a brakes question: when I got her back on the road (late July), I installed a new brake master cylinder b/c the old one seemed to have failed and I couldn’t get great pressure. Now I’m 4 months into driving her and something is up with the brakes again: on Monday, the brakes went from a little soft on the first pump/ hard as nails on the second, to absolutely nothing on the first pump/ rock hard on the second. I inspected the lines (no evidence of leaks) and bled them (got a few bubbles, but nothing dramatic). The brakes were great after that Monday night test drive and Tuesday to work. Coming home Tuesday, they are back to zero on the first pump/ hero on the second. I “tested” the booster (pumped up brakes when off/ turned on and brakes softened a bit, just how the internet said they would with a functioning booster) and it seems to be working. Both my dad and my car guy neighbor are thinking master cylinder but can’t explain why I’d have the firm up on 2 after hitting the floor on 1. Any ideas? Would y’all agree with the master cylinder idea? It has a lifetime warranty, so all I’ll be out is some brake fluid and some elbow grease, but hate to tear it apart if it could be something else.
 
JLB206 said:
It’s been a while since a proper update, and this isn’t that- I’ve got a brakes question: when I got her back on the road (late July), I installed a new brake master cylinder b/c the old one seemed to have failed and I couldn’t get great pressure. Now I’m 4 months into driving her and something is up with the brakes again: on Monday, the brakes went from a little soft on the first pump/ hard as nails on the second, to absolutely nothing on the first pump/ rock hard on the second. I inspected the lines (no evidence of leaks) and bled them (got a few bubbles, but nothing dramatic). The brakes were great after that Monday night test drive and Tuesday to work. Coming home Tuesday, they are back to zero on the first pump/ hero on the second. I “tested” the booster (pumped up brakes when off/ turned on and brakes softened a bit, just how the internet said they would with a functioning booster) and it seems to be working. Both my dad and my car guy neighbor are thinking master cylinder but can’t explain why I’d have the firm up on 2 after hitting the floor on 1. Any ideas? Would y’all agree with the master cylinder idea? It has a lifetime warranty, so all I’ll be out is some brake fluid and some elbow grease, but hate to tear it apart if it could be something else.
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Shoes adjusted? Seems like could be pushing shoes out and then getting pedal 🤷🏼‍♂️
 
RUSH55 said:
I didn’t read anything about bleeding or adjusting the rears.
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Are you talking about inside the drums? Should I need to adjust the shoes? The brakes were in good working order before my engine swap, so all I did was bleed the air out of the supply lines going to the brakes when I put everything back together. And when I say “the brakes”, I mean all four. Starting at the furthest one from the master cylinder and working my way back. Sorry if that wasn’t clear/ didn’t specify my routine. And this is a stock ‘74, so it is drums all around. If I need to adjust the shoes on the back, wouldn’t I need to do it on the front also?
 
JLB206 said:
Are you talking about inside the drums? Should I need to adjust the shoes? The brakes were in good working order before my engine swap, so all I did was bleed the air out of the supply lines going to the brakes when I put everything back together. And when I say “the brakes”, I mean all four. Starting at the furthest one from the master cylinder and working my way back. Sorry if that wasn’t clear/ didn’t specify my routine. And this is a stock ‘74, so it is drums all around. If I need to adjust the shoes on the back, wouldn’t I need to do it on the front also?
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Id adjust them all, just to be safe. Then bleed em and note weather any have air bubbles.
Air bubbles can indicate a bad cylinder but it's consistent air bubbles time after time.
If you get consistent air bubbles rebuild that cylinder (or allow em)
Also check the master cylinder pushrod height.
I cant remember what thexspec is but proper clearance is important.
I had to wing it by feel but they make a tool for that.
Honestly id start with a shoe adjustment all around.
 
Alright, that is 3 votes for shoe adjustment. And it’s probably a good thing to get a look at the wear anyway- I haven’t looked at them since I purchase it last year- low on the priority list until stopping became an issue! Then immediately to the front of the list! Fun wheel related tidbit- I had a flat after getting her back on the road, and checking the Les Schwab receipt/warranty that came with the rig, the tires only have about 8k miles on them since purchased…IN 2010!
 
JLB206 said:
Well that isn’t what I want to hear. and I was just thinking about how well she was running! Back to whack-a-mole!
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We can all say whatever and its all word salad.

At the end of the day you'd probably like to know for yourself that your brakes are in good to great condition.

Nothing anybody says here has any bearing on the actual condition of your brakes, which are a critical safety system!

Take the drums off, have a look around and familiarize yourself with what's there.
Service parts are available and inexpensive and when working right, the drums stop really well.
 
trainbufftony said:
Wouldn't hurt to pull drums and have a look at all 4 of em because the friction can unbond from the steel shoe and then no amount of adjustment will fix anything...
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Pulled all 4 drums and found a little of everything. 2 wheels in good shape. RL has sprung a leak in one wheel cylinder. Looks pretty recent as not everything is covered in fluid/no fluid coming out of the drum. That probably explains the change on Monday. Up front, I have a delaminated friction plate on the FL. That explains why the rig pulled to the right a bit on hard stopping. Thanks for the insight and recommendations. Ordered replacement parts. This gives me something to do this weekend when I get tire of hanging Christmas lights.

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bobm said:
Time to replace it All 😉
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That is a bigger task than I am ready to start. I still have the tranny and transfer case to rebuild! And then new shocks and springs, not to mention finalizing the AC, replacing the coolant hoses I cut up and coupled to make the new motor work, etc, etc, etc. Disc brakes are pretty far down the line
 
JLB206 said:
That is a bigger task than I am ready to start. I still have the tranny and transfer case to rebuild! And then new shocks and springs, not to mention finalizing the AC, replacing the coolant hoses I cut up and coupled to make the new motor work, etc, etc, etc. Disc brakes are pretty far down the line
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I’m a big fan of disk front and drum rear. Having said that, you can certainly “replace it all” with new shoes and cylinders all around and be fine. After all, there’s nothing more important than brakes.
 
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