Ditcherman
SILVER Star
I assume you've cleaned the inside threads, I know I'm reaching. The safety wire sounds like the pro-grade solution for sure.
Builds Stretched 1-Ton FJ40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Mike Shull
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #1,742
I am going to weld all of your driveshaft hardware in the middle of the night when you all are asleep.
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #1,743
I haven’t even backed out of the garage and I am already doing trail repairs. @Ditcherman, remember all of the fun that I’ve had with my carrier bearing? Check out this bushing from my new carrier mount.
I used another body bushing on the lower right and it is quite a bit softer. Hopefully this will hold for two weeks.
I used another body bushing on the lower right and it is quite a bit softer. Hopefully this will hold for two weeks.
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #1,744
Update on the ujoint straps. My wife came out to the garage while I was under the Cruiser attempting to replace the hardware, but I got the wrong stuff. You all will never guess what she recommended. 
Update on the ujoint straps. My wife came out to the garage while I was under the Cruiser attempting to replace the hardware, but I got the wrong stuff. You all will never guess what she recommended.
Well..
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #1,746
I’m going to save the wire that I have left for your driveshaft.
I love the way the top conforms with the cage geometry. Has a super nice look to it. Tell your dude good job. Have you tried green locktite yet? If that can last through sas, I'd order some aircradt grade pre drilled bolts for those.
Zipties on a driveshaft is a great prank lol
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #1,750
I have not tried green loctite.
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
I’m going to drive past a thousand grain elevators today. Maybe a grain elevator supply place. They have the bearing you need, if we can match center bore id and hole spacing, lmk.
Ditcherman
SILVER Star
Have fun with that, hope you bring TIG, I made mine out of all aluminum to save weight.
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #1,753
I can weld aluminum with a coat hanger. I don’t really mind how it looks.
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #1,756
The bushings that Busted Knuckle provided are made to fit into a larger hole than the bolt so that the bolt can move as the frame flexes. It looks like I didn’t have the bolt tight enough and the bushing pulled through the hole and tore.
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #1,757
I am just catching up on this thread. I like the u-bolt style u-joint straps better than the flat ones, but better yet is to switch out to a flange like Toyota has for both front and rear axle. That way the u-joint is protected. I got mine from HAD.
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #1,759
Thanks, Rob. I am also not a fan of the flat strap as the ones that I have don’t allow for the wrench to get the proper torque as the bar gets in the way as the bolt gets tighter. I have a mixture of flat flanges and u-bolt style hardware throughout my driveline and both types are keeping torque. I will look at replacing my rear yoke when time permits.
The rear shaft stayed tight during the trip, and I put over 1500 miles on it over the past 2 weeks. I have a few other things to address, too, such as replacing some of my melted wire loom with something from DEI, finding better bushings for my carrier bearing mount, and finishing the interior, especially with finishing the heat shield on my floor. These transmission tunnel got up to 175°F! I MUST also replace my factory headlights as I can’t see anything with these old halogen headlights. These are very minor problems and I am very pleased with how the Cruiser performed. I’m not saying anymore right now but I might be in the market for an FJ45 LV wagon in a year or two as the next project.
Here are a few pictures from the trip.
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
- Thread starter
- #1,760
The FJ60 parking brake lever is installed and it is a way better product than the Lokar handle that I was previously using. The 60 has way more leverage and the locking mechanism has tighter teeth, both allowing me to lock the brakes a little tighter than before. The handle also has double the working distance, which will be needed when I increase the leverage at the wheels.
The parking brake will finally pass TlCA inspection by stalling the engine in third gear, though I wouldn’t count on it to hold on a hill. Those Cadillac parking brake calipers require a serious amount of force to lock. I can get the brakes to engage on my driveway enough to hold it for a moment, but it will eventually creep backwards.
Now that I have more working distance in my lever, I’ll have somebody plasma cut longer levers and different brackets for the cables to allow for increased leverage at the wheel. I have already experimented with a successful prototype with my previous set up and it seemed to work, though the longer levers increased the distance needed at the handle to engage the brakes and the Lokar handle didn’t have enough working distance to engage.
A huge callout to Ed at Control Cables, Inc. He knew exactly what I was trying to do and they had the parts on hand to convert my emergency brake cable from the 60 to the Chevy setup. I had to remove the heat shrink so that the cable would fit the handle properly. This was a pretty slick fix.
www.controlcables.com
Thank you again, @KSJ85, for the handle. It is perfect.
Old lever
Control Cables, Inc. FJ60 to Chevy cable
FJ60 lever
The parking brake will finally pass TlCA inspection by stalling the engine in third gear, though I wouldn’t count on it to hold on a hill. Those Cadillac parking brake calipers require a serious amount of force to lock. I can get the brakes to engage on my driveway enough to hold it for a moment, but it will eventually creep backwards.
Now that I have more working distance in my lever, I’ll have somebody plasma cut longer levers and different brackets for the cables to allow for increased leverage at the wheel. I have already experimented with a successful prototype with my previous set up and it seemed to work, though the longer levers increased the distance needed at the handle to engage the brakes and the Lokar handle didn’t have enough working distance to engage.
A huge callout to Ed at Control Cables, Inc. He knew exactly what I was trying to do and they had the parts on hand to convert my emergency brake cable from the 60 to the Chevy setup. I had to remove the heat shrink so that the cable would fit the handle properly. This was a pretty slick fix.
Control Cables | Industrial Motion Controls | Street Rod Parts & Accessories
Custom cables & controls made to fit, manufacturer parking brake cables for automotive and industrial applications. Cablecraft Push Pull with Teleflex Morse style cable options. Large selection of hardware fittings for most cable and linkage applications.
www.controlcables.com
Thank you again, @KSJ85, for the handle. It is perfect.
Old lever
Control Cables, Inc. FJ60 to Chevy cable
FJ60 lever
Similar threads
