Mine
Builds Stretched 1-Ton FJ40 (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter Mike Shull
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3-link suspension
Mike Shull
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- #262
The lower links are ordered. I will be switching the steering. See below. Perhaps the left exhaust manifold as well. Lol. On the bright side, the anti-dive is 89%, which is close to what I was aiming for.
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I have the same exhaust issue . How to fit a square peg into a round hole lol
On mine it looks as if i go off the top of my diff for the upper link i can make it work with my exhaust . I just need to wrap the pass side around the front of my oil pan and tie into the drivers side .
Mike Shull
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- #265
No doubt. A center dump would have been ideal. This manifold still might work with some modifications. I think that my passenger side might be fine.
Just to throw it out there. Since you are linked, the front of the frame will not see the type of forces it would with leaf springs. You COULD re-work or try to flatten out the front of the frame to try and get clearance for more uptravel.
It looks like you got it dialed and its not necessary, but something to keep in mind if things end up getting in the way.
It looks like you got it dialed and its not necessary, but something to keep in mind if things end up getting in the way.
Mike Shull
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- #267
Good points, @EWheeler. I’ve got to keep something factory under there. Lol.
I think that the front end is back on track. I will move my steering to the front of the axle and most likely with a double shear setup, then I’ll build custom tube fenders. Hopefully my lower links will come this week and I can cycle the suspension next weekend to test for clearance.
After reconfiguring the suspension yesterday, I measured 5” of suspension lift over stock, which is way better than the 8” that I was going to get by sticking the 1-tons under the leaf springs (~7” with the factory axles). I’ll mock up my sway bar and coilover mounts as the final step, though it is starting to look like I’ll be able to fit a 12” shock in front with 5.5” of up travel, which should be just fine.
I think that the front end is back on track. I will move my steering to the front of the axle and most likely with a double shear setup, then I’ll build custom tube fenders. Hopefully my lower links will come this week and I can cycle the suspension next weekend to test for clearance.
After reconfiguring the suspension yesterday, I measured 5” of suspension lift over stock, which is way better than the 8” that I was going to get by sticking the 1-tons under the leaf springs (~7” with the factory axles). I’ll mock up my sway bar and coilover mounts as the final step, though it is starting to look like I’ll be able to fit a 12” shock in front with 5.5” of up travel, which should be just fine.
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Mike Shull
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- #268
What type of hydraulic steering is this? I was considering hydro assist though I was looking at the style that mounts like a stabilizer would. I thought that full hydro would not have a drag link (like most forklifts?) so your setup must be assist as well?
Mike Shull
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- #269
I forgot to quote your message in my previous reply.
It has a sweet valve, like an orbital but the shaft passes through it to a manual gear box. Then it uses a drag link. All the power is from the double ended ram but it is still a mechanical system per Ultra4 rules. You can turn it without the engine running but it is tough.
Mike Shull
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- #271
I am working on my panhard bar today. I’ll need to kick the axle bracket out by ~40* to clear the differential. I am starting to exceed 5” of up travel, which is a good stopping point.
Don’t worry about the amount of threads sticking out of the panhard bar as the bar itself is scrap. I’ll cut the actual bar last.
Don’t worry about the amount of threads sticking out of the panhard bar as the bar itself is scrap. I’ll cut the actual bar last.
Looking good
Mike Shull
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- #273
I am amazed at how close the mock PVC drive shaft appears to be to the oil pan when the right side is compressed. This might clear if I can find someone who can make a 2” OD slip yoke. I expect that it will never be this close as the left side is currently sitting at ride height, which wouldn’t be the case in a real condition.
I’m stopping for the weekend. I was able to get 5” of up travel. Here are a few pictures. The last picture is at ride height
I’m stopping for the weekend. I was able to get 5” of up travel. Here are a few pictures. The last picture is at ride height
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Mike Shull
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- #275
I am going to reposition the flange on my left manifold to see if I can bolt on a collector. I have always used the rams horn manifolds and I’ll do that as plan B.
Can we get a pic of the front panhard and draglink together? They need to be the same length and parallel to reduce bump steer.
Mike Shull
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- #277
Sure, except I don’t have my new draglink installed. Pictured is the old draglink sitting off to the side. I ordered the Artec double shear arms as you recommended. Since I was limited to where the panhard bar could go, I decided to install that first and match the draglink. I will cut a new draglink and tie rod once those arms arrive. I purchased the outside of frame panhard bracket and I hope that the lengths will be close enough.
BTW, have you used the Rockjock Antirock bars on any of your Cruisers? I was reading on their website that the 40” kit is not to be used with suspension travel over 12”. I have decided to go with 14” travel shocks. Have you or others used this kit on a 14”+ travel suspension? I also emailed Rockjock for help though it seems as if it would work as I would limit the travel to around 12.5-12.75.
Rear: CE-9907-18 - Universal Antirock® Kit (40" Bar, 18" Steel Arms) - https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9907-18
Front: CE-9903-20B - Universal Antirock® Kit (32" Bar, Bent 20" Steel Arms) - https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9903-20B
BTW, have you used the Rockjock Antirock bars on any of your Cruisers? I was reading on their website that the 40” kit is not to be used with suspension travel over 12”. I have decided to go with 14” travel shocks. Have you or others used this kit on a 14”+ travel suspension? I also emailed Rockjock for help though it seems as if it would work as I would limit the travel to around 12.5-12.75.
Rear: CE-9907-18 - Universal Antirock® Kit (40" Bar, 18" Steel Arms) - https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9907-18
Front: CE-9903-20B - Universal Antirock® Kit (32" Bar, Bent 20" Steel Arms) - https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9903-20B
Mike Shull
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- #278
I spoke to Max at Rockjock and he said that the 40” setup has a 1” torsion bar and it is intended for increased tension that you might want with a heavier vehicle. This bar could break if flexed beyond 12”.
It sounded as if all other kit sizes have a .7-.8” torsion bar and they can be flexed beyond 16”. His setup flexes 22” and his sway bars have handled just fine.
It sounded as if all other kit sizes have a .7-.8” torsion bar and they can be flexed beyond 16”. His setup flexes 22” and his sway bars have handled just fine.
I have one that i bought for my FJ cruiser that i never installed. i will go measure it
Mike Shull
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- #280
I’m interested if it’s the right size.
