- Thread starter
- #81
Oh no, I was referring to the fact that the heater core uses #10 AC fittings. It doesn’t make sense on a heater core
Old and New: 5.7 Vortec to 6.0 LS Swap, ‘69 FJ40
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gonzopancho
SILVER Star
At what temp?
I see a 300a ampacity rating for a 75C (167F) wire in a 25C (77F) environment, but it’s for bare wire.
Insulated 2/0 copper stranded wire is rated around 175A in the same conditions. Your under hood temps might be higher than your living room.
IJS…
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
@Rock40, do you have onboard air? If so, what do you have and do you like it? I am using a ViaAir setup that is 25+ years old and there is no way that it will fill a 40” tire in a reasonable amount of time.
I saw your locker compressor on your firewall and I was thinking about replacing mine with an upgraded onboard air compressor and running my locker lines to an air tank. Thoughts?
I saw your locker compressor on your firewall and I was thinking about replacing mine with an upgraded onboard air compressor and running my locker lines to an air tank. Thoughts?
- Thread starter
- #84
I was look8mg at the Polar Wire site which is appears to be identical in construction to the wire I’m using.
325 amps at 86 degrees, 304 at 104 degrees. Sure it’ll be hotter under the hood, and i believe that’s likely enough of a safety margin. Powermaster calls for #2 cable as long as the run is under 6’. Pretty big difference between 2/0 and #2 cable
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- Thread starter
- #85
Yeah, I have the small ARB compressor on the firewall and that is feeding a 3 gallon air tank in the rear. There is nothing fast about the small ARB compressors tho. Great for the lockers. I’ve aired back up in a pinch but I don’t prefer it.
I carry a PowerTank also and that is QUICK for filling tires. Would probably inflate a 40” tire under a minute but I’ve never tried it. Converted AC pumps are pretty fast, I’ve just never run one
- Thread starter
- #86
Tired of wiring nonsense, would much rather fabricate something
Relocated the power steering and coolant reservoir bottles
Rear mount for steering fluid, sits essentially directly over the pump
Front mount for the coolant reservoir…
DUN
Relocated the power steering and coolant reservoir bottles
Rear mount for steering fluid, sits essentially directly over the pump
Front mount for the coolant reservoir…
DUN
looks good what tig set up do you use ?
- Thread starter
- #88
Thx, I’m using a Miller Synchrowave. It’s an older transformer machine but it welds DC really, really nicely.
Love the TIG for the heat control and the fact that it doesn’t splatter all over nearby expensive components like MIG. Definitely way more sensitive to any contaminants or dirty metal tho
- Thread starter
- #90
A little progress today…
As much as I want to, there’s zero way to run a lower 20AN radiator hose. The thermostat housing and radiator outlet are too close together and there isn’t enough room for the AN fittings, let alone any 20AN hose.
Bit the bullet and ordered a 360 degree swivel thermostat housing from CVR. It has a 1.5” outlet, lower radiator is 1.75” As far as I can tell, an LS thermostat housing with a 1.75” neck doesn’t exist
So I have to have a spliced radiator hose (which I don’t like) and a reducer.
Used a reducer from JTR. Transitional Hose Splicers - https://jagsthatrun.com/collections/best-sellers/products/transitional-hose-splicers This is a different size for reference, they make quality stuff
And the lower hose will look like this, plus a few more clamps
Made up the 10AN heater hoses up to the firewall also
As much as I want to, there’s zero way to run a lower 20AN radiator hose. The thermostat housing and radiator outlet are too close together and there isn’t enough room for the AN fittings, let alone any 20AN hose.
Bit the bullet and ordered a 360 degree swivel thermostat housing from CVR. It has a 1.5” outlet, lower radiator is 1.75” As far as I can tell, an LS thermostat housing with a 1.75” neck doesn’t exist
So I have to have a spliced radiator hose (which I don’t like) and a reducer.
Used a reducer from JTR. Transitional Hose Splicers - https://jagsthatrun.com/collections/best-sellers/products/transitional-hose-splicers This is a different size for reference, they make quality stuff
And the lower hose will look like this, plus a few more clamps
Made up the 10AN heater hoses up to the firewall also
- Thread starter
- #91
Upper radiator hose is done. Dollar bill is for size comparison, they are LARGE full flow fittings.
I like that
- Thread starter
- #93
Yeah, ultra clean. And unfortunately a huge price tag to go along with that
- Thread starter
- #94
Here’s my main gripe with Vintage Air heaters and AC units. Granted I only have heat in my 40 but the AC units are the same
Vintage Air uses #10 male AC fittings on their heater core. INCONVENIENT to say the least. As far as I could find, there is no such thing as a #10 AC to 10AN fitting. Nothing. If Vintage Air used NPT, barb or literally anything else it would have been easy
So I got some plain #10 AC fittings and welded a 10AN male to them
Went up to my neighbors fabrication shop to do the welding and ended up assisting with these brackets. They are seat supports for one of the NY state ferries. If you’re riding the ferry in the future and the seat doesn’t collapse you can thank me
Vintage Air uses #10 male AC fittings on their heater core. INCONVENIENT to say the least. As far as I could find, there is no such thing as a #10 AC to 10AN fitting. Nothing. If Vintage Air used NPT, barb or literally anything else it would have been easy
So I got some plain #10 AC fittings and welded a 10AN male to them
Went up to my neighbors fabrication shop to do the welding and ended up assisting with these brackets. They are seat supports for one of the NY state ferries. If you’re riding the ferry in the future and the seat doesn’t collapse you can thank me
- Thread starter
- #95
Heater plumbing is done. This might not look like much but it was a pain to get things to fit, go figure
And got REALLY lucky with the exhaust. I built the stainless crossover long before the engine was ever test fit, just had an idea of where I wanted it to terminate basically
Original exhaust had a 6” flex piece, I bought a stainless steel 8” and it essentially bolted right in. Welded on the exhaust flange and that was it. Would love to do full stainless exhaust but this is WAY over budget so that’ll have to wait
And got REALLY lucky with the exhaust. I built the stainless crossover long before the engine was ever test fit, just had an idea of where I wanted it to terminate basically
Original exhaust had a 6” flex piece, I bought a stainless steel 8” and it essentially bolted right in. Welded on the exhaust flange and that was it. Would love to do full stainless exhaust but this is WAY over budget so that’ll have to wait
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
Is this not what your Vintage Air heater came with?Here’s my main gripe with Vintage Air heaters and AC units. Granted I only have heat in my 40 but the AC units are the same
Vintage Air uses #10 male AC fittings on their heater core. INCONVENIENT to say the least. As far as I could find, there is no such thing as a #10 AC to 10AN fitting. Nothing. If Vintage Air used NPT, barb or literally anything else it would have been easy
So I got some plain #10 AC fittings and welded a 10AN male to them
View attachment 3580908
Went up to my neighbors fabrication shop to do the welding and ended up assisting with these brackets. They are seat supports for one of the NY state ferries. If you’re riding the ferry in the future and the seat doesn’t collapse you can thank me
View attachment 3580909
View attachment 3580910
- Thread starter
- #97
Yes. That is not useful, at all. All it gives you is the option of routing rubber heater hoses through your firewall, which I don’t like. They are not correct for AN pushloc hose and because the core is set up the way it is, you are stuck with the barb fittings
It’s odd because Vintage Air DOES sell a very nice AN bulkhead connection, 2 fittings for heat and 2 for AC. How you are supposed to get to AN without welding custom fittings like I did is beyond me.
- Thread starter
- #98
Saginaw box is back from PSC 
Fabbed up the steering shaft support today. Used a stainless Borgeson bearing and tied it into the AA motor mount
DUN
The shaft fits just BARELY between the frame, exhaust header and shock hoop
Fabbed up the steering shaft support today. Used a stainless Borgeson bearing and tied it into the AA motor mount
DUN
The shaft fits just BARELY between the frame, exhaust header and shock hoop
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
Looks great!Saginaw box is back from PSC
View attachment 3583737
Fabbed up the steering shaft support today. Used a stainless Borgeson bearing and tied it into the AA motor mount
View attachment 3583745
DUN
The shaft fits just BARELY between the frame, exhaust header and shock hoop
View attachment 3583744
View attachment 3583740
- Thread starter
- #100
Thx, getting very close now. Waiting on a new steering cooler which should arrive Monday
