Builds Barons white FJ62 log (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

So, I had trouble reverse bleeding rear brake. problem was at the master cylinder, and I eventually bought a new one, but with all the checking/reading I found the real issue is the Brake Proportioning Valve.


This sits under the master Cylinder in an FJ62, and changes the orientation of the hardlines (so you cant just remove it, without changing hardlines). I also could not find any reference in any of my FSM's. Its meant to push braking to the front, if the rear looses presure. Its meant to be more for disc front, drum rear. Note. Some 60's also had a 'brake load' proportiing valve, which has a lever to the suspension and changes brake pressure based on load. After some research if you loose presure in the rears, then it ''fires' to fix it. However it then needs resetting. And I could find no instructions on how to do this. Some mentions about doing fronts first and pumping pedal, but nothing clear. A reset can be done on newer models, but they have an extra hole.

I could not find these brand new, and was looking for old ones. I could find a 'kit' to rebuild it, but it seems to be more for the 'brake load' version.

Anyway, finally I decided to have a look at it. The issue was that i could blow through one pipe, but not the other one. This matched the issue of the rears locked, and why I could not reverse bleed.

So I pulled it apart!


I unscrewed the big bolt at the end. Then I could see this gold and blue bit covered in gunk. The blue pin was sticking out of the gold bit, and I grabbed it with pliers and could pull it against a spring. Eventually the whole bit came out. This let me clean it all up with a rag. It had a rubber ring on the blue end which easily came off for me to clean. I then put it together and realises that the blue pin is NOT meant to stick out. This is what it should be;


The blue bit was STUCK all the way to the end which was the problem. Now with it out, and all put back together I could blow through both pipes.

I'll let you know how it works when I reconnect it and fill it back up again.
Big weekend coming up to do 60 work.

I had a rear brake center line that would'nt come out. I ended up hitting it with gas and a comperssion plyers, and got it off. Went to replace with an extended brake line. But after an hour of trying I could not get the hardline to screw in. So reversed it all out. I then reverse filled in, which still had some problems. I then went to work on the front brake and guess what? They did not exists. I did'nt notice when I swapped diffs with browny the brakes were removed. i guess I'm swapping brakes tmrw.

I started the car again and worked first time. Big Tick. I have a bunch of new engine parts which I'll slowly put on. i also cleaned up the shed.

One issue I had was a loose power- steering belt. it was the right one according to the parts pickers from repco and Supercheap. I even bought two, thinking the first one was faulty. but even when the PS pump was at its max travel, it was still flopping arround, so much I could hear it when it was running.


So I bought a new one from terrain tamer. It was a different part number. 15A-1335. It fitted perfectly. The ribs inside were also twice the wrong one.
So Sat. Worked on Brakes. The old Whitey chassis in still in the back yard. Brakes on that look pretty ordinary, but the came off easy enough. Gave them a full clean up, pull the pads out, cleaned bleeding nipple. I took the wheel of to install it, and found this was the last part I never cleaned. Rust all over the rotor, but again, a bit of wirewheel, wax and grease removes and it all cleaned up perfectly. Brake components went on great and I started to reverse bleed again. Still had no luck from rears so I did fronts first and this seemed to work.


Next step, I needed a seat to sit in. I'm missing the braket for the toyota seats, but I have some brakets for E46 BMW seats so I put that in. I also cleaned up wiring for RedArc.

I originally had some cheap OEX midi fuses, but looking at them, they did not look great. I got some Bushman ones instead, which you need to buy individually and then the joiner bar.


Also reterminated the chassis ground.

Had some spare parts to install, so I started the car up just to check each change was successfull.

New Fuel Filter, then New spark leads. I had a new coil, but it said internal resister and the old one was external, so it was not a part I wanted to fiddle with.

Then installed the airfilter and finally the engine bay is complete:


Still missing washer lid and expansion bottle lid. Will go searching later.
Sunday. Getting it ready for the first drive. like 15ft!!!

With a seat in and the engine running, time to see if it moves and if my clutch replacement and brakes worked.

And it DID! Got the car out of the shed and back and forth a few times in the drive way. Worked Great.

But a few things to research.

a) The clutch in extremely light. less resistance then the Accelerator. A bit of research said this could be air in the line. Might need to bleed.

b) Brakes still not ideal. it stops the car, but not well. handbrake works fine. Some research says that you should adjust rears first. i used to do this by reversing and jaming on handbrake!! not sure it worked. Will fiddle another time when I take it out on the road.

Anyway, started to rain so drove it back in the shed.

Next on the list was fixing the seats (I stupidly put the passenger one in the drivers side). This was my manual e46 seat, but a while ago I picked up electric ones. I wired these directly to the Bushman midi fuse, ran special cable. Put the OES midi fuse under the seats and properly terminated everything and put in t a plug for power.


I now have Electric Seats. BMW e46 seats actually. The main reason for this, was the extra leg room. They have more rear travel then the Toyota seats. They are much more comfy, but they sit a little high as well. I fabbed some brackets based on the USA TorFab ones (which cost a bomb to get to Australia).

Works Great.

Also Spent some time on the door electrics. I've got the wiring all connected but without doors. I connnected the Drivers control panel as well as some door locks and windows. The Door-locks all work great, but not the window winders. I tested them manually on a battery and they work! I also tested voltage at the connector.


So I stopped and found this thread on the problem.

Ordered some relays to fix this. Much easier doing it now then later.
Just a little time today. Finished the rear hatch. First, connected the rear hatch lock cable (Drivers side rear) and it worked. Had to reterminate all the connectors as the old ones were cut and thrown away by PO. Connected the washer water using the pipe that was still in place, and this all worked. Might need to aim the jet a bit better, its quite powerful. I did'nt even know where he button was until I found that the dash rear-wiper button has a hidden push feature to run water.

On the passenger rear side, I connected all the wires as well (Wiper, door-lock sensor and rear-demister), with most of them needed reterminating. Also threaded the dash-cam top rear camera through the holes, and installed it (two small screws into the rubber, hope I wont regret that later. I had planned to install a light and I connected up a new switch and USB port in the add-on cover on the top hatch. I bought a flexible strip light, but when i tested it, it really was not that bright. (looked good though). will figure something out.

Also ran the lower Tail gate number plate lights and reterminated that as well. Put it and the reverse camera in a conduit, through the holes, and ran the cable. This all worked as well. This is fairly tedious work and now I'm an ace at reterminating cables. Tested all the rear wipers, etc and it all works great. These things have never worked in the car since I bought it.

PS: i purchased a large bulk box of misc Narva connectors. This was fairly low-cost compared to buying them two at a time. However I'm running out of 'single' connectors quite quickly.
Final day of the long weekend. Tackling lots of small electrical jobs.

Rear Reverse Cam, powered from front via its extension cable. Uses simple RCA plugs for the video feed.


Bigger job, was installing a Relay in the ignition circuit. Ignition cct uses 6mm cable, so I had to get some upgraded connectors. This was a little tricky, as I originally had Aux power for the relay trigger, but strangly when you move the key to 'start' the Aux' power actually drops. Turns out I just had to wire the start to both positive for the relay and passthrough on set. Now the Ground controls if the car will start or not.

I also wanted to fix a battery drain future issue. The combination of the Sony radio Standby power and the dashcam standby power, (and other things) draws 800-900ma. This will send the battery flat in 4-6 days, which is not ideal. So I wired a standby switch via a spare rear heater switch that I'll put in the dash. Then this is off, standby power drops to 20ma, which should be fine. The added advantage is the switch make the electric aerial go down when I want it to. downside, is the Sony looses all its settings. Will see how annoying this will be.

Also found the rear carpet and started to size it up. This is starting to look close to finishing.


This is thew new internal fuse box for all the add-ons. Its wired with 6mm cable to the Power Distribution box (factory) in the engine bay. This should easy fit into the passenger footwell. I like this format, as it has blades for negative as well on it.

Got the dome light working.


I somehow lost the round factory plug on the end under the drivers side. This plug had '3 pins' but the cable only had 2 wires? I couldnt find any notes in the FSM. It tuens out one wire is permanent power (for ON) and the other is a switched 'ground' via the door switchs. This is all thats needed. The 3rd pin was not used. I also went to wire the rears, but I stupidly broke the circuit board in it, so I'll need to get a new one.

this is the BMW seat.


All electrics work! This one does not have heater. Its got memory switches, but this comes from the BMW ECU, so it wont be used.

This is the dash switch for standby power.


Its a common practise to use these demister switches for other things. A) they are common, every 60 has one. B) they have a lite in the switch if you want to use it. Just need to beware, I think the switch is diode protected. It only works (i.e. switches) when the power is connected to the correct terminal.

Back to work now. But next steps is to complete the interior fitout and then put the doors on. Also need to get a the Glass back in.
Bit of work this weekend. Lots of little jobs.

Cleaned up the interior, to install carpet and rear seats. The discovered I needed to tighten all the body mounts. This all went smoothly, except I discoverred the rear seats where dirty and had rust marks. Got some Fostex cleaner on amazon a while ago for this. Scrubbed it and and then pressure sprayed it off. This worked well, but not completely, but happy enough. also re-painted all the rear seat brackets and put them back on. Found some rips in the vinly on the seats, so I ordered a repair kit in. The only issue is rain then set in and the seats were soaking and not going to dry. Also discovered that I've lsot the mounts for the standup section of the rear seat! so need to find something.

Also installed the rear Carpet and figured out how it works. Factory Carpet has these plastic sections stapled on the edges which mat where the cables need to sit. the door trim then screws in over this and holds it in place. Now sure what you do with non-factory carpet. Mine is in good condition after I cleaned it with the Fostex many months ago.

I also purchased a Viper basic Alarm. Figured i'm going to all this trouble with wiring I might as well do this. Even though its the basic alarms, its got lots of cabling to do. it needs constant power and ignition power. Then I wired a trigger from the courtesy light (which it triggered by the doors open). This was easy. I want to wire it also to the doors to have remote open and close, but I need door relays for that which are on order. All up, this was successfull and worked well, but was VERY messy wire-wise due to the large number of things it needed. Also had to wire a light and switch somewhere.

I then started to clean up the front area. Starting on the drivers side, all the cables packed away nicely. BUT then I tried to install the Drivers door wiring loom. I've come to the conclusion this is IMPOSSIBLE to do with the Dash all in. Hence for anyone doing this in future, run the drivers door loom before you install any parts of the Dash. they way it goes in from the outside and then Up with all sorts of barriers is impossible. However, I could run the cable 'down' to where the door-courtesy switch is. but I needed to lengthen the cable, which I did my undoing all the loom mounts and moving them a few inches in, this then stretched down and up to the main loom.

I then installed the front Carpet. Needing to put the gear levers rubber mounts in as well. This was also very tricky. I then screwed all the air-routing as this needs to go in on TOP of the carpet. Once you see it, it makes sense.

I then mounted the centre console. If you remember, the body I used, has full bench seat, and I needed to move the console mounts over and weld them in. Now I get to discover if I measured them correctly. in short! I stuffed in up, but a bit of creativity had it securely in place.

The weekend ended trying to dry out the rear seats and carpet and a bit of a start attempting to clean up the wiring mess. I also got a brother label maker and put label tags on every bit of custom cabling I used. For future owner.
Currently doing Carpet. I'm following the Carbuilders journey. I've laid down some of the butile sound deadening stuff. Only using coverage where needed. I'm not a fan of the matting normally used for carpet underlay. When it gets wet, which is common for a 60, it does not dry. I'm replacing it with the carbuilders foam underlay (non acoustic version). Its like 10mm thick with a sticky side. The acoustic version has a thicker layer in it as well, but costs quite a bit more.

It comes as a roll in a box. This is a pic of one roll, sitting on top of the middle-row carpet.


This is about 95% coverage. Another box did the front carpet, with about 80% coverage (20% wastage). I already had foam for the rear carpet, so in total if your doing a 60 series, its prob 3 boxes.

I firstly Cut the shape of the foam, sitting on top of the original carpet. I cut the shape and cut-outs.


I then wire-wheeled the old underlay off, after ripping it off by hand. unlike the roof lining which is the same stuff. This came off much easier. Its a bit messy, but I got the Dyson out to clean it all up.


I then stuck it down:


And then install it. This mid- section was actually simple.

The front section was much trickier as the shape of the carpet fits around the transmission hump. I cut the sections slightly larger on each side. I then pressed it on 'loosly', which let me then install it and shape to the contour needed. it tool a few tries, but eventually it all went in. If I had pressed it hard like the mid section, i would be stuffed.

I then put the back seats in, and installed the rear carpet. This needs the rear-seatback frame removed (which I cleaned and painted) and then the carpet put under it, and then screwed back on again. I also discovered that the rear-seat part as these small stoppers on the base, when actually support the back when it folds down. I put mine on backwards, but this was easily fixed.


I then went hunting for my seat-belts and stock seats (The BMW ones will go in later). These needed some cleaning up, but thats next on the list. I also started painting these bits to tidy them up.
Last edited:
Worked on seatbelts today. Seemed to have misplaced some of them. Found a couple seemed to not want to extend, and pulled them apart, but i think you just have to get the angles correct for them to work, or I overwound then. Beware as one side has the ratchet mechanism and the other the spring. I would not want to undo the wrong one. Once inside you can hold the ratchet up and unwind the belt.

I was missing some bolts and nothing seemed to fit. Took them to a nut and bolt place and who know that the seat-belt bolts are the only imperial bolts on the entire truck. they at 7/16th's. apparently most makes use this size.

Also installed the front seats (original). These needed the small adapter plate, which took some finding. These are all M10 bolts. Seemed to go in ok.

Also cleaned up all the wiring under the passenger footwell, and managed to put the fusebox in and screw the cover plate on. Also put the glove box back in, with the newly working glovebox light. Also labeled everything.

Missing some parts still. The front bumper brackets and the small latch that sits on the rear-seatback, holding the pins in place on the chassis. Need to go to a wreckers to find some of these things.
Cleaned up the front Grill. 1st gave it a clean, and wipe down with wax/grease remove. This hit it with the Adhesion promotor for a few coats. Then with Dupli-Color DST217 (Graphite-Toyota). This is a metallic/glitery-grey which matches the original very well. I researched how to paint the letters. This is actually a spare grill so I could experiment a little. First go, got some white nail-polish and painted by hand.


First coat, went on crap.


2nd coat not much better. It can go on thick, but it wont flatten itself, and any attempt to do it, just creates craters.


i masked it with electrical tape and lathered on thickly. this got over the crater problem. But when I removed it, the thickness was too much for the masking and I got some not very neat edges.

This is not really a solution. I think maybe I need to mask it all properly and hit it with the spray gun.
Putting the doors back together. This is a fiddly/time consuming job. Took prob 7 hours to do 3 doors. Noting most of the time spent finding/cleaning bits. Its much quicker if you are transferring from an old door to a new one, with all the bits easily identified.

To help people with the 'order of install'. 1. Bolt mechanism in (i.e the door lock button, door key, handle and whole thing) all in at the same time. 2. but the glass inside the door (its impossible to do it later). 3. install internal door path mounts. 4. Put in the vertical channels (i.e. rear doors), and half panel in rear doors. 5. put rubber in the channel, while putting glass in the channel. (note, for rear doors, you need to man-handle the vertical channel at an angle first), move glass up 1/4 way. 6. install window winder, and connect to window. 7. finish the rubbers and all final bits.

NOTE, this was on full windows, not quarter windows. the main trick was to put the glass in first, in an empty channel, then put the rubber in from outside and push it down (each side) into the internals of the door.

I also had to redrill the speakers. The OEM have 3 holes, but all modern speakers have 4. and stupidly, to make them horizontal, you cant because the metal has a shape in it. Instead I opted for about 10% turn to let me surface mount it.

I also put lanox on all the channels and moving parts and externally tested all the windows and locks.
Next job was to install the doors. Basically I put the hinges on the body first, put a chair under the door and stuff to bring it up to the correct hight. Put in the m8 bolt with 12mm rachet (you need a swivel-head racket spanner for this job). Remember to put the wiring out of the body first, and also install wiring iside the door before you close it. Also with the front doors, when you put the door on, put the wiring inside first, not outside (once door is on you cant change it easily). I typically would have all bolts loose, lift door and put int he bottom most bolt, do it halfway up, then put in top bolt and tighten them both. With two bolts the door can sustain its own weight.

This all was going well, until the front drivers refused to go on. The screw holes did not line up. I tried everything for about 2 hours. Then assumed I had the wrong hinges.


Indeed, I did mess it up.

The hinges have two lables. L or R and 1 or 2.

L = Left-Hand (Passenger Side)
R = Right-hand (Drivers Side).



The Flat edge hinge, is TOP hinge in Front. The Rears only fit one-way.

Once I had the correct hinges, the drivers door went on easily.

HOWEVER, I have not yet attempted to align them. Thats for another day.

And another TIP.

- You can easily access the rear hinges to tighten
- For the Front hinges, the fender is in the way. If you have a choice, install the front doors and align them, before you put fenders on. Not sure how I'm going to reach it, but I think a angled spanner is in my future.
- Without the door pin, you can push/open the door too far back, scratching the paint in the door jams. Beware.
- It can be done by one person, its bloody hard.

Also on the way, I discovered that the Front Door wiring harness is a different part number for electric mirrors and not-electric mirrors. I replaced with a version without, but thankfully I found another spare loom on a spare door and was able to install it separately (unwound the door loom, installed it, and rewound it, this was quite simple even keeping in the factory grommet). Remember the BLUE plug for the door loom is the speaker/electric mirrors.
got up before work to sort out some things before the windscreen goes in. Mainly the dash. I prewired a few things to save messing around under the dash, I lined it up a couple of times and in the end it seemed to go in ok. Their is a specific order to things. 1. put nuts on the in-built bolts under the black-lip behind the dash (saves trying to line these up after when you using tips of your fngers. Also unscrew the lower dash section (AC controls), disconnect the speedo, and put out its console as far as possible. remove glovebox 2. put top dash in. Line up the bolts into grooves, finger tighen nuts (Access drivers side through speedo hole, access passenger side through glovebox. Put in three front screws on front of the dash. put in side screws, but done tighted up just yet. 3. put in Radio (it goes in before the main speedo section that sits in front of it. 4. Put in speedo section, speedo cable etc (through to the radio cover. screw it all in. Note the bottom section, goes on top of the top section in parts. 5. Put in lower section/AC controls.

While all this is great, The drivers air-conduit is a nightmare for me . You cant really access it to line it up, it joins 4 inches down in the hole and the wiring loom slightly deforms if. I'm sure I hav'nt lined it up. I guess I'll see, when my knee freezes.



I also pulled through the drivers door loom. NOTE. I had to de-pin two connectors to push through the hole. No bloody way it was going to fit.


Just used a jewelers screwdriver in the front, hold the plastic up and pull on the pin. Fairly easy.

I have an original bumper bar for the FJ62. a bit of a unicorn find. BUT I cant find the original mounts (I have them somewhere). I also have another unicorn in an original Dakar ARB bar. I pulled this out, and gave it a clean up and paint, and it came up great. It had proper adjustable mounts on it, so I put these on the car and its all a simple bolt on job. More to come on this.

Last edited:
ARB bar went on very smoothly. It even had three hight settings, depending on the lift you have.


I also got some new lights to fit in the bar, but apparently, they have different sizes and I got the wrong one. I measured it up and ordered the correct one. I also spend ages wiring white and orange lights, but the new lights are only orange. Also you figure that the inbuilt blinkers are 100% obstructed.

I also test mounted the winch, and it plugged straight into the existing holes. The Fairlead that came with it lined up correctly. (did'nt need the offset one I had).

The winch I have is a Kings Dominator. pretty much bottom of the range, but works. Reading some info on these (thousands of people have them), they recommend you replace the grease with marine grease and more of it, so using an Allan key it came apart easily.

Also attached the new stedi lights. Looking good.


Really need to paint the reset of the letters.

I even mounted them properly and plugged them in.


I still have a strange wiring bug in the lights. One light goes out on high-beam (but the other does not). Something for later.

Even ran the UHF Antenna cable. One stupid thing with this, is that the cable is permanently connected at the Antenna base. This means you need to thread the cable from this point, and if you mess it up you need to start again. (e.g like forgetting to put the nut on the cable. This all went smoothly as well.

I also went to mount the rear speakers, but again the speakers I had did not match the brackets. I tried to look at ways to do this, and I ended up wiring in some speakers just to get sound. BUT I did now want to put holes in my fresh ABS panel without some planning.

also tested the apple carplay with all four speakers in.

So all this fun stuff was because I spent all week on doors and basically had nothing but trouble. Felts and rubbers are the main issue. I got new plastic clips, but damned if I can get them to go on and hold anything. Had to remove the glass, just to get a damn trim bit in.

Also had a rear window stuck/slow. (I'm using a DC powersupply directly on the motor so its not the switch/current issue). The passenger rear was the problem. I lubbed it with Lanox, that may have been a bad idea, but it was not going to work with any help. Basically the rubbers are shot.

I figure I'll do the rest of the doors later and order new rubbers in one go.

Strangely the front passenger window works great. No issues.


Few things. Again, stupid 3 bolt holes for the speaks which has 4 corners. I had to reterminate the rear-vision mirror cable and it was too short and I had to de-pin to get into the door jar. Then had to re-pin it, working completely blind with one hand. That was fun.

Also got a lesson on Door Checks.

The 60 has two types. (one with an angle in it, for Fronts, and straight for backs. The other part which it goes through is the same for all 4 doors.

I painted them, which may have been a bad idea. This thing works on friction to work, and now I've painted it I get some interesting 'growns'. I might have to remove the paint, but might try a silicon grease first.


Using just bolts for now, as I can see me removing these on and off. I did find the pins.

I cleaned and re-painted the electric mirrors and when I connected they worked as well (first time). Also connected the front wipers and they worked. Small wins.

I still need to do the Drivers front/back. I also need to do the relay bypass on all non-drivers doors. When connected to the power, the local window switches are too old to make the window go, so using two relays, you can use the low current switch to switch the high-current windows. Thats in my future as well.

RE-EDIT: The curved door check goes on the rear-doors, the straight one goes on the front doors. If you get it wrong, the front doors catch on an internal window rail and make a huge cluck sound when you close the door.

TIP #483: put the door surround rubber on before you PIN the door checks. The rubber goes inside the check, hence you need to remove it. Also, Black vinyl/rubber spray paint brings rubbers back to new, except it you ripper the pin holes. Hav'nt found a solution to that yet.
Last edited:
View attachment 3246184

I wirewheeled the clutch mount, and painted it clear. came up nice. Did rest in black.

Reconnected pedals (do this before you bolt in the sub-mount). Screwed it all back up. redid the firewall material, and back to where I was yesterday but with a 3rd pedal.

View attachment 3246185
Awesome work on this rebuild. I’m in the process of converting a RHD 61 to a 5-speed. These trucks come with a clutch booster as well and I’ve seen that bracket that you welded in. I’m opting to go without the booster and mounting the clutch master directly to the firewall. Using one from a 87 US spec FJ60 which has the bolt holes at 1:00 & 7:00. It lines up with the pedal bucket which I’ll use a hole saw like you did to cut through the wall. Here’s a pic of another late FJ60 master as well as the pedal bucket from a RHD 61. I’m fairly certain this will eliminate the need for that bracket on the firewall. Curious if you considered not using the clutch booster?


Awesome work on this rebuild. I’m in the process of converting a RHD 61 to a 5-speed. These trucks come with a clutch booster as well and I’ve seen that bracket that you welded in. I’m opting to go without the booster and mounting the clutch master directly to the firewall. Using one from a 87 US spec FJ60 which has the bolt holes at 1:00 & 7:00. It lines up with the pedal bucket which I’ll use a hole saw like you did to cut through the wall. Here’s a pic of another late FJ60 master as well as the pedal bucket from a RHD 61. I’m fairly certain this will eliminate the need for that bracket on the firewall. Curious if you considered not using the clutch booster?

View attachment 3322451

View attachment 3322452
Did'nt even think of that as an option. Overall, it prob tool 3 hours to fix, but I was lucky and had the old chassis out in the yard to refer too. If I didn't, I would have wasted hours searching the internet, and then searching wrecking yards and such trying to find the small bracket. The latest trick I found in the conversion, is the Auto has an extra large square hole in the transmission hump in front of the handbrake that you need to make a cover for to fill in before you put carpet in.
Did'nt even think of that as an option. Overall, it prob tool 3 hours to fix, but I was lucky and had the old chassis out in the yard to refer too. If I didn't, I would have wasted hours searching the internet, and then searching wrecking yards and such trying to find the small bracket. The latest trick I found in the conversion, is the Auto has an extra large square hole in the transmission hump in front of the handbrake that you need to make a cover for to fill in before you put carpet in.
Yes sir. Good call on covering the hole in the trans hump. We did that along with the PTO shifter hole

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom