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Power Windows and Door Locks--Permanent Fix!

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by slcfj62, Jan 8, 2009.

  1. slcfj62

    slcfj62

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    EDIT: This thread got longer than a Russian Folk tale. Since it got put in the FAQ, let me add a bit of a table of contents for quicker access to the meat of the thread:

    Power door lock mod--Posts 27 to 32
    Power window mod--Posts 47 to 51
    Discussion about grounding-- Posts 76 to 83

    Most of the rest of the posts are either side discussions, Q & A, or comments about how great I am. :D Those people haven't talked to my wife yet.

    CLOSE EDIT.


    My power windows and door locks haven't worked very well since I got my fj62 last spring. I've read enough postings to know that this problem is not unique to my cruiser. Awhile ago, I finally got around to pulling the master switch panel and all the door switches out and removing the pits from the contacts with emery paper and polishing the contacts all nice and shiny like has been recommended on another post. I even put dielectric grease in there as well. I reinstalled the switches and tried the power door locks and bamm, up and down they went for about 5 cycles. Then right back to the old problem. I pulled the master switch panel out again, and had a little black pit in the contacts. Curses. I think that the original surface of the contacts was hardened a little, and once that is eroded away, the softer metal won't stand up to switching that much current.

    The switch contacts for the drivers window aren't the same as the rest. They are just flat copper bars without the contact because they just control the relays for the drivers window. The relays actually switch the current for the window motor. So, I figured why not use relays to switch the current for the windows in the rest of the doors and the power door locks as well? After examining the wiring diagrams, I figured out how to add relays to the other windows and for the door locks, and ordered a set of 8 relays with sockets and pigtails for about $50. Each relay will switch 50 amps, so they should never wear out. If they do, it's only a $5 fix.

    Well, tonight I wired in the relays for the door locks. I tried the locks. They all jump up and down with authority. I must have cycled them 50 times and they work fantastic! Now I was really stoked, so I dove into the passenger door window switch. Toyota did kind of a funky thing with the windows. The window lock switch actually interrupts the path to ground for the window motors. So when you lock the windows, you can't even roll them down from the master control panel. In order to use relays with the windows, I had to change the ground path, so the window lock feature doesn't have any effect any more. I have to wire in a ground to each door switch. I haven't quite figured out the best way to do that. I am leaning toward just using a braided strap between the door pillar and the door, and then grounding the door switch to a ground point on the door. But hey, the passenger window goes up and down lickedy-split now. It is just as fast as the drivers side. I ran out of time to complete the back doors, I'll have to get to them later.

    But if anyone else out there is interested in the fix, I will take some pictures and do a short write-up of the procedure. You'll have to add a ground to three doors and you'll have to cut some wires between the switches and the connectors and figure out where to stuff the relays in the doors, but for $50 in relays and sockets, you can breathe new life into your door locks and windows!

    I'm out for tonight.
     
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2010
  2. jessewmcgregor

    jessewmcgregor

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    very interested also supplier and part numbers if you would be so kind
     
  3. intense1

    intense1

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    I second that, mine are really slow and I've done all the cleaning. Do the write-up man!
     
  4. DirtyLittleSecret

    DirtyLittleSecret

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    If we dont get a write up sometime soon you will be getting a knock on your front door at 3AM sometime this weekend.
     
  5. Spook50

    Spook50 Get ready

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    Great to see that someone figured out how to do this. I had thought about it some time ago, but I lack the electrical knowhow to have been able to figure out how to do it right. I'm sure there's a way to reingetrate the lock switch at some point in the future, but for now it sounds like you've got the major power starvation figured out.

    There's a car stereo shop up the street from my folks place that does a TON of custom work and designing systems from scratch for damn near every vehicle out there. The guy who owns the place is a wizard with anything electrical, so I'm goint to take my 62 to him and see if maybe he can also find a different, newer style of motor that can be swapped in with little (or preferably no) modification to the doors. I figure a more efficient, more torquey motor would help bigtime with our windows as well.

    Also, don't forget the window channels themselves. They can be a huge factor in window speed as well. On my list of summer maintenance this year is replacing the channels on all four doors.
     
  6. Dieseler

    Dieseler

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    Can I get those relays in 24v for my HJ61
     
  7. slcfj62

    slcfj62

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    You aren't going to need to swap out the motors unless the motors themselves are shot. The window goes up and down like anything once you get the relays installed. The difference is like night and day. In fact, it goes up so hard that it started to jump the channel where it sticks. I already have the window channels on order from CDan. Once I get them installed, power window problems will be a thing of the past.
     
  8. slcfj62

    slcfj62

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    I'm sure you can. The relays are just standard relays that I got from an online car audio place. I'll post the part numbers for the 12 Volt ones and see if they have 24 Volt. If they don't, you'll have to source your own relays, but it shouldn't be too tough.
     
  9. slcfj62

    slcfj62

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    Yeah Yeah, so don't come pounding on my door yet. I'll do the write up Saturday morning which is my next window of available time. I thought there would be some interest in this. It's my first real chance to give back something useful. I've certainly benefitted immensely from the collective knowledge on this site. It's a wonderful resource.
     
  10. calphi27

    calphi27

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    I am glad someone got this figured out. Now all we need is someone to build a new master control panel where the switches won't fall out.
     
  11. Birdstrike

    Birdstrike

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    Me too please. If you find some 24V relays Dieseler let me know. You'll have more options on the coast.(a little limited up here)
     
  12. Randy88FJ62

    Randy88FJ62

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    I am interested and look forward to the writeup.
     
  13. ntsqd

    ntsqd technerd

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  14. slcfj62

    slcfj62

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    Hey, your opinion is pretty good this time! I looked at Mr. Carter's write up, and I am doing something different than he did, but seeing the diodes in his diagram, I suddenly realized that I could use diodes in my mod and then be able to ground back through the switch which will accomplish two things: I won't have to ground the doors, and the window lock switch will still work. I'll have to get some diodes and test it out to make sure there isn't any degradation in performance doing it that way, but it's worth a shot. I'll find out tomorrow.
     
  15. slcfj62

    slcfj62

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    Make sure you get at least 30 amp relays. I measured 5 amps down and 7 amps up for the 12 Volt system. A 30 to 50 amp relay should last a long time switching that current. Also, if you get sockets with pigtails, it makes the install much easier.
     
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2009
  16. slcfj62

    slcfj62

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    Here are the relays I bought. They charged $15 for shipping which I thought was little steep, but then they knocked almost a dollar off per relay with a quantity of 8, so I guess it all comes out in the wash.

    **RELAY 30 /50 AMP SPDT RELAY - WITH HARNESS*::*RELAYS AND HARNESSES*::*Car Alarm & Remote Start*::*AUTOTOYS

    EDIT: The relays above are OK, but I am going to recommend a different relay as my preferred choice. After building over 100 headlight harnesses with Song Chuan relays and having 0 failures, I'm going to recommend them instead of the ones you can get on the link above. A good source for the Song Chaun relays is www.waytekwire.com. The part number is 75716 for the relays. You can still get the relay plug with the wires already attached from the AutoToys link above.

    Close EDIT.

    It's called a single pole double throw (SPDT) relay. This means it has a common and then normally open (NO) and normally closed (NC) contacts. So when the relay coil gets 12 Volts, the NO closes and the NC opens. This is the type to get.

    For you diesel guys, I didn't see any 24Volt ones. You might want to check yourself, or maybe call them and see if they have something that isn't on the website.

    If you get something other than what I got, you will want to make sure you get the wires connected correctly.
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2011
  17. Gwynley

    Gwynley

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    I knew that bulk buy of 24v relay's would come in handy! I found them on Ebay - just cost a couple of £s. I also plan to use them to install a 12v alarm (they can switch any voltage).

    Might have a few spares if anyone in UK wants a couple...
     
  18. slcfj62

    slcfj62

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    So I can't find the right diodes here locally, but I found a good source over the internet. I've ordered them but will have to wait for a few days til they get here. So be patient folks, it will be worth the wait. You will be able to unplug the door switches, bring them in the house where it is nice and warm, do the modification, and go out and plug the switches back in without any further wiring modification. So be patient. You've waited this long.....
     
  19. DirtyLittleSecret

    DirtyLittleSecret

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    Packed the rig, and will be there early Saturday morning...I like my bacon crispy, and eggs benedict style.
     
  20. Chino Cochino

    Chino Cochino

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    Dude! Your the man! I've playing with this issue for awhile now! Can't wait to fix my PW-PDL's