- Thread starter
- #141
It was called Limited Slip Diff Oil. from Castrol!
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- Thread starter
- #145
So I'm tracking a couple of small but annoying issues. I'l create a single post on each to track its progress.
- Stuttering around 1800-2000 RPM occasionally
This seems to be a common issue. some write up hear and in my local facebook groups. Strange that no direct fix has been found and instead lots of different things have been tried, but no one actually saying the issue went away, except some who have replace nearly everything. For me, it really only happens when car is warmed up, and on a trip. It only happens on slight inclines (hence slightly more throttle), does not seem to happen on normal flat surface or down-hill. It does not happen all the time (I can go on trips and not have it), but anything over 30ins i can normally feel is, and it will stay for a while. When it starts you cant floor it through the issue, however changing to a lower gear gets around it (RPM goes up to 2200-2500). It sometimes gets a big stutter, shaking the whole car (you loose all accell for like 1second), but then goes) , other times its is just a slight small cough. Possible related issues. After a long drive, idle RPM drops to under 500rpm (normally 650rpm), also engine does have a burble at idle (its not rough, but its not perfect, but I've never heard another 62, so it could be normal), Tacho occasionally decides to stop working and issue was present since i bought the car (hence nothing in the rebuild fixed it).
i thought it was originally spark related, but others think its fuel related, or air getting in somewhere?
Here is the list of things I'm going through to try and fix it. I generally do a couple before a long test drive.
- Emisions computer : DONE, not replaced, but re-soldered all connections
- Spark connections Grease: DONE
- Better Spark Leads: DONE
- New Fuel Filter: DONE
- Hotter Spark Plugs (looking not best): Not done yet.
- Bypass EGR Valve: Dont have one in a FJ62 Aus edition
- Green Wire Mod/Bypass Idle Cut off: aus 60's dont have green wire, but the cable can still be jerry riged to bypass - DONE
- Swap Canister Pipes? : Not sure what canister? Only have 2, and they each have different size slots
- Drive without fuel cap?: DONE
- New PCV Valve? - instaled
- Replace Disti Rubber Vac Pipe? (5mm) - DONE
- replace all Vac Pipes? 3.5mm. - DONE some
- Check Idle Cutoff (12V and Switched Ground). Remove and clean, tested and work - DONE
- Vac Problem/hole in intake manifold? (spray carb cleaner, around it while running?) Check when really hot?
- Replace 4 short Vac tubes back of Carb?
- disconnect tacho cable from coil?
- replace intake manifold gasket? Big job
- Could be related to fuel level issue in tank? Vapour lock etc: Not sure how to test
- Replace entire Carb
update 3rd Sept.
- Still happening. Thought it might be spare but replaced most of those parts? Could still be emmissions computer, but not sure how to test. It was not super bad, but issue kicked in after 30min of driving and prob occured about 1/3 the time on small inclines. Going to try idle valve bypass, and test for vac or manifold holes.
update 15th Sept.
- Still happening, seems to cut in when car warms up for a while (not just operating temp, but needs to be under a little stress). The idle-cutoff mod did not work. Itested the solinoid and it was working fine. I installed another PCV valve. When I removed the old one I could blow/suck air both ways, but the new one is a one-way only valve so it was definitely failed. Also when replacing vac tubes, I wanted to test the idle up valve. It's stuffed, when testing on 12V its not doing anything., a new one is on order.
Update: 19th Sept.
- its Hot, 35 outside, so took car for a round town trip. No evidence of any of these issues, but it was 40mins of city driving. Each time previously its been highway driving for hours then the problem occurs. Will re-test.
Update 26th Sept
- Some small drives, its still happening. It shows most when going uphill, around 1800rpm in 3rd or 4th gear. Its not as bad as it was, but I've found a hill that makes it happen. Trying to think what mechanisms are changing when these things occur. The engine is under load (hill), RPM 1800 about!. When engine is under load, Vavuum will increase. That feeds the Disti vac advance? I wonder if thats the issue. I've bypassed the green/white wire mod on idle-cut off as that has a trigger at 1800rpm. I think next I might give disti a good clean, and maybe even try electronic points! It seems petronix make them and they are on ebay, but lots of mixed messages if they fit. Alternative, replace entire disti with an electronic one, but having trouble finding one.
Update 3rd Oct
- Pulled Disti Cap and Roter. They were both heavily clogged, the rotor was pitted so I cleaned with emry paper. The cap had white crud and pits on each contact, so I replaced entire Cap. I also tested the Vac Advance (basically sucked on the pipe) and was getting nothing Had to do some researched on how it worked and found that it 'twists' the entire contact assembly, and I was able to actually 'twist' it ok with fingers. I then repeated the suck test and I was moving? I guess I may have unstuck it a bit. Sprayed whole lot with contact cleaner. Also the 'Suck' has a possible leak. i.e. sucking moved the points, but the pressure then drops and they move back. This is possibly meaning the system has a leak, but I also guess that any vac from the carby is likely continuos, which means it would work. Time to do a bit of research. Went for a test drive and the whole truck has more life now! A tad more power, couldn't reproduce the fault, and it also idles 100rpm higher (which I wanted it to do, as I always thought it was low). I wont say its fixed yet, but I'll take it on a longer drive. Seems like a new one now! I guess I should have looked at this a while ago. NOTE:The disti-clips, have an angle clip on the bottom of the clip, that unless you pull it out you wont notice and think you messed it all up, but when you pull the bottom clip out it all makes sense and goes back easily.
Uopdate 14th Oct.
- Going to call this FIXED. Had a good run today, and zero evidence of this issue. No stuttering around 1800rpm on hills. I think either the Disti Vac-Advance being stuck 0R the crud on the disti rotor and points. I think the Vac is more likely as they will change depending on throttle and performace. I'm not sure if it was locked on or off, but the way to test is to disconnect vac tube from Carby and Suck on it. If the disti moves your good is not, they give it a push/WD40 etc to get it free. Best of luck everyone. This issue affected quite a few people.
Update: Feb
- Nope, still occurs. certainly not as much, not every time, but when it decides too, it happens. Definitely only when car is quite warm. Apart from replacing things like Disti/Carb I'm not sure what to do.
- Stuttering around 1800-2000 RPM occasionally
This seems to be a common issue. some write up hear and in my local facebook groups. Strange that no direct fix has been found and instead lots of different things have been tried, but no one actually saying the issue went away, except some who have replace nearly everything. For me, it really only happens when car is warmed up, and on a trip. It only happens on slight inclines (hence slightly more throttle), does not seem to happen on normal flat surface or down-hill. It does not happen all the time (I can go on trips and not have it), but anything over 30ins i can normally feel is, and it will stay for a while. When it starts you cant floor it through the issue, however changing to a lower gear gets around it (RPM goes up to 2200-2500). It sometimes gets a big stutter, shaking the whole car (you loose all accell for like 1second), but then goes) , other times its is just a slight small cough. Possible related issues. After a long drive, idle RPM drops to under 500rpm (normally 650rpm), also engine does have a burble at idle (its not rough, but its not perfect, but I've never heard another 62, so it could be normal), Tacho occasionally decides to stop working and issue was present since i bought the car (hence nothing in the rebuild fixed it).
i thought it was originally spark related, but others think its fuel related, or air getting in somewhere?
Here is the list of things I'm going through to try and fix it. I generally do a couple before a long test drive.
- Emisions computer : DONE, not replaced, but re-soldered all connections
- Spark connections Grease: DONE
- Better Spark Leads: DONE
- New Fuel Filter: DONE
- Hotter Spark Plugs (looking not best): Not done yet.
- Bypass EGR Valve: Dont have one in a FJ62 Aus edition
- Green Wire Mod/Bypass Idle Cut off: aus 60's dont have green wire, but the cable can still be jerry riged to bypass - DONE
- Swap Canister Pipes? : Not sure what canister? Only have 2, and they each have different size slots
- Drive without fuel cap?: DONE
- New PCV Valve? - instaled
- Replace Disti Rubber Vac Pipe? (5mm) - DONE
- replace all Vac Pipes? 3.5mm. - DONE some
- Check Idle Cutoff (12V and Switched Ground). Remove and clean, tested and work - DONE
- Vac Problem/hole in intake manifold? (spray carb cleaner, around it while running?) Check when really hot?
- Replace 4 short Vac tubes back of Carb?
- disconnect tacho cable from coil?
- replace intake manifold gasket? Big job
- Could be related to fuel level issue in tank? Vapour lock etc: Not sure how to test
- Replace entire Carb
update 3rd Sept.
- Still happening. Thought it might be spare but replaced most of those parts? Could still be emmissions computer, but not sure how to test. It was not super bad, but issue kicked in after 30min of driving and prob occured about 1/3 the time on small inclines. Going to try idle valve bypass, and test for vac or manifold holes.
update 15th Sept.
- Still happening, seems to cut in when car warms up for a while (not just operating temp, but needs to be under a little stress). The idle-cutoff mod did not work. Itested the solinoid and it was working fine. I installed another PCV valve. When I removed the old one I could blow/suck air both ways, but the new one is a one-way only valve so it was definitely failed. Also when replacing vac tubes, I wanted to test the idle up valve. It's stuffed, when testing on 12V its not doing anything., a new one is on order.
Update: 19th Sept.
- its Hot, 35 outside, so took car for a round town trip. No evidence of any of these issues, but it was 40mins of city driving. Each time previously its been highway driving for hours then the problem occurs. Will re-test.
Update 26th Sept
- Some small drives, its still happening. It shows most when going uphill, around 1800rpm in 3rd or 4th gear. Its not as bad as it was, but I've found a hill that makes it happen. Trying to think what mechanisms are changing when these things occur. The engine is under load (hill), RPM 1800 about!. When engine is under load, Vavuum will increase. That feeds the Disti vac advance? I wonder if thats the issue. I've bypassed the green/white wire mod on idle-cut off as that has a trigger at 1800rpm. I think next I might give disti a good clean, and maybe even try electronic points! It seems petronix make them and they are on ebay, but lots of mixed messages if they fit. Alternative, replace entire disti with an electronic one, but having trouble finding one.
Update 3rd Oct
- Pulled Disti Cap and Roter. They were both heavily clogged, the rotor was pitted so I cleaned with emry paper. The cap had white crud and pits on each contact, so I replaced entire Cap. I also tested the Vac Advance (basically sucked on the pipe) and was getting nothing Had to do some researched on how it worked and found that it 'twists' the entire contact assembly, and I was able to actually 'twist' it ok with fingers. I then repeated the suck test and I was moving? I guess I may have unstuck it a bit. Sprayed whole lot with contact cleaner. Also the 'Suck' has a possible leak. i.e. sucking moved the points, but the pressure then drops and they move back. This is possibly meaning the system has a leak, but I also guess that any vac from the carby is likely continuos, which means it would work. Time to do a bit of research. Went for a test drive and the whole truck has more life now! A tad more power, couldn't reproduce the fault, and it also idles 100rpm higher (which I wanted it to do, as I always thought it was low). I wont say its fixed yet, but I'll take it on a longer drive. Seems like a new one now! I guess I should have looked at this a while ago. NOTE:The disti-clips, have an angle clip on the bottom of the clip, that unless you pull it out you wont notice and think you messed it all up, but when you pull the bottom clip out it all makes sense and goes back easily.
Uopdate 14th Oct.
- Going to call this FIXED. Had a good run today, and zero evidence of this issue. No stuttering around 1800rpm on hills. I think either the Disti Vac-Advance being stuck 0R the crud on the disti rotor and points. I think the Vac is more likely as they will change depending on throttle and performace. I'm not sure if it was locked on or off, but the way to test is to disconnect vac tube from Carby and Suck on it. If the disti moves your good is not, they give it a push/WD40 etc to get it free. Best of luck everyone. This issue affected quite a few people.
Update: Feb
- Nope, still occurs. certainly not as much, not every time, but when it decides too, it happens. Definitely only when car is quite warm. Apart from replacing things like Disti/Carb I'm not sure what to do.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #146
Next issue:
- Car is difficult to start after a long trip.
Again a couple of people have this issue, but no direct resolution has been found. Issue has been present since I got the car, do rebuild did not fix it. Only occurs after a good hour or more of high-way driving. a 30min drive (engine is fully up to heat) does not occur. One time after driving for 4 hours (I actually try to avoid turning car off), I stopped car, and opened bonnet and shock the car to see the fuel window on the carb. after 30sec, the carb started to empty (I'd shake the car), until after a minute the window was empty. The car was hard to start, hence the actually issue is the carb is loosing fuel when stopped, so when you start it, it takes some time for the fuel pump to refill, and start.
So I orginally though i was loosing fuel because boiling off, but I put a temp sensor on the carb, and its not getting hot! in fact after driving the carb is still ok to touch it (where the rest of the block etc is too hot). I also researched 'vapour' lock but I dont have any suction build up in the fuel tank. i also researched what could suck fuel out of the carb, but does not seem to be a way? Also not the above thead on other symptoms!
Tried:
- Fuel Cap Off: did not seem to work, but didnt really try it for long.
- Carb Temp: DONE, does not seem to be an issue.
- Swap Carbon Canister pipes? Unsure what pipes to swap?
- install canister the right-way up.
- New fuel pump? Is fuel being sucked back from fuel-tank?
- Vac pipes, fitted wrong? dont think so, but the ones going to all those vac switches could be wrong?
- Vac pipes sucking fuel? removed all piped leaving carb, and sucked on them. none of them get fuel?
- Air return canister replace?
Update 3rd Sept: Have'nt really replaced anything on the above list, BUT have done lots of things on the above list for stuttering. had a long drive a few days ago, and issue did not occur? maybe its fixed, need to test some more.
Update 15th Sept. Still seems to be happening, when on drive today. The car starting its stuttering and then when I stopped it was difficult to start again. I did'nt get out to look at the float window. A few things being done on the stuttering isssue. I also notices that I mounted one of the carbon canisters (Fuel return one) upside down. I'll try to rectify?
Update: 3rd Oct. Put both canisters right way up. Not sure what these do, as you can blow/suck on each of the pipes, so its not blocked at all. Strangely, sucking on one of the piped creates a sound much like a harmonica coming from the unit. Anyway, I dont think this issue has re-occured, but I need to go on a much longer steady drive to be sure.
Oct 14: Good run and issue re-occured after a 1hr long drive, pulled up for Coffee and was difficult to start, but only once. I'm going to focus on this being a Fuel VAC issue (hence breathers etc may be blocked), but I suspect (as removing fuel cap has no suction sounds), that it only lasts 30secs, hence If I drive and let car idle for a minute, it might let the Vac go and not be an issue, but if I turn car off immediately, the vacuum lasts long enough to suck fuel out of the carby bulb. I'll test for a while and see.
Dec 28th. Some more drives issue is still present. A few days ago on a 40deg day, even after a short drive it happened, so Its definately heat releated. had a look at the 'valve' on the breather contraption return pipe. It was not operating (could blow through it both ways). replaces it, but still had issue. Today I found a pipe from the Carb to the valve (then to the return pipe to tank) had a rather large crack in it, which I did'nt see before. Replaced it, so I'll see what it does.
PS: STarted anothe thread on this to focus the answer. Refer too: 3F Carb Draining issue - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/3f-carb-draining-issue.1329173/#post-15294932
If you search for 'Carb Draining' or. fj62 Oklahoma rebuild. you find lots of other threads on this issue, with no one really saying they found the answer. However the 'issue' can present as ' Drains randomly, Drains overnight, Drains fast' with possibly different answers.
- Car is difficult to start after a long trip.
Again a couple of people have this issue, but no direct resolution has been found. Issue has been present since I got the car, do rebuild did not fix it. Only occurs after a good hour or more of high-way driving. a 30min drive (engine is fully up to heat) does not occur. One time after driving for 4 hours (I actually try to avoid turning car off), I stopped car, and opened bonnet and shock the car to see the fuel window on the carb. after 30sec, the carb started to empty (I'd shake the car), until after a minute the window was empty. The car was hard to start, hence the actually issue is the carb is loosing fuel when stopped, so when you start it, it takes some time for the fuel pump to refill, and start.
So I orginally though i was loosing fuel because boiling off, but I put a temp sensor on the carb, and its not getting hot! in fact after driving the carb is still ok to touch it (where the rest of the block etc is too hot). I also researched 'vapour' lock but I dont have any suction build up in the fuel tank. i also researched what could suck fuel out of the carb, but does not seem to be a way? Also not the above thead on other symptoms!
Tried:
- Fuel Cap Off: did not seem to work, but didnt really try it for long.
- Carb Temp: DONE, does not seem to be an issue.
- Swap Carbon Canister pipes? Unsure what pipes to swap?
- install canister the right-way up.
- New fuel pump? Is fuel being sucked back from fuel-tank?
- Vac pipes, fitted wrong? dont think so, but the ones going to all those vac switches could be wrong?
- Vac pipes sucking fuel? removed all piped leaving carb, and sucked on them. none of them get fuel?
- Air return canister replace?
Update 3rd Sept: Have'nt really replaced anything on the above list, BUT have done lots of things on the above list for stuttering. had a long drive a few days ago, and issue did not occur? maybe its fixed, need to test some more.
Update 15th Sept. Still seems to be happening, when on drive today. The car starting its stuttering and then when I stopped it was difficult to start again. I did'nt get out to look at the float window. A few things being done on the stuttering isssue. I also notices that I mounted one of the carbon canisters (Fuel return one) upside down. I'll try to rectify?
Update: 3rd Oct. Put both canisters right way up. Not sure what these do, as you can blow/suck on each of the pipes, so its not blocked at all. Strangely, sucking on one of the piped creates a sound much like a harmonica coming from the unit. Anyway, I dont think this issue has re-occured, but I need to go on a much longer steady drive to be sure.
Oct 14: Good run and issue re-occured after a 1hr long drive, pulled up for Coffee and was difficult to start, but only once. I'm going to focus on this being a Fuel VAC issue (hence breathers etc may be blocked), but I suspect (as removing fuel cap has no suction sounds), that it only lasts 30secs, hence If I drive and let car idle for a minute, it might let the Vac go and not be an issue, but if I turn car off immediately, the vacuum lasts long enough to suck fuel out of the carby bulb. I'll test for a while and see.
Dec 28th. Some more drives issue is still present. A few days ago on a 40deg day, even after a short drive it happened, so Its definately heat releated. had a look at the 'valve' on the breather contraption return pipe. It was not operating (could blow through it both ways). replaces it, but still had issue. Today I found a pipe from the Carb to the valve (then to the return pipe to tank) had a rather large crack in it, which I did'nt see before. Replaced it, so I'll see what it does.
PS: STarted anothe thread on this to focus the answer. Refer too: 3F Carb Draining issue - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/3f-carb-draining-issue.1329173/#post-15294932
If you search for 'Carb Draining' or. fj62 Oklahoma rebuild. you find lots of other threads on this issue, with no one really saying they found the answer. However the 'issue' can present as ' Drains randomly, Drains overnight, Drains fast' with possibly different answers.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #147
next major issue: Tacho stops working occasionally?
Sometime I'll start the car and tacho stops after an hour, other times tacho wont start at all. However, its only about 10-20% of drives, so its not a regular thing.
Again, some people here have the issue. The tacho cable is a black cable from the coil, that also connects to the emmisions control box AND the AC control box. strangly, the stuttering issue, some people identified to the Tacho, but their is no relation to the tacho working/not working to the stuttering issue. Some research says that the Tacho signal, is just a pulse on a 12V lead, (actually could also be ground lead, as its black) a voltage tested does not see it, but a light tested does (light flickers on the coil output). However its likely the tacho is really sensitive to voltage drops? However also note, only once did the tacho start working after it was not. All other times, the Tacho would fail the entire trip, only to work the next one. I'm also worried about GROUND everywhere? but i dont have any other electrical gremlins.
things it could be?
- New Coil and Resister: DONE
- reterminate all cables on coil - DONE
- Check Voltages on Coil - DONE
- replace spark leads - DONE
- Add disconnect switch on Redarc charger. (in case its causing issues)
- removed Emissions controller - Car stopped, would not start. plugged back in and all ok.
- Clean All Ground cables to master loom (under drivers feet)
- Pull Dash and check cables into Tacho: next
- Get another Tacho: next
- replace Emissions controller and AC controller: next
- Re-Ground everything? Put in extra Ground Taps between chassis and fenders etc.
Update. 3rd Sept. Problem did not occur for a long time after replaces the coil/resister/cables. Thought that was the issue, but it recently occurred again. I cleaned ( with grinder) all the ground wires under the drivers footwell, which I think feeds the instrument cluster). Waiting to see if it fails again, next trick will be to pul the dash (trying really to avoid this).
Update: 15th Sept. Issue has not re-occured, however Attempted to connect a 3rd Party Tach to the Coil (Amazon) and its not working. Suspect that these aftermarket Tacho's use a standard live 5v rail of modern digital cars, and not these old girls.
Update: 3rd 10th. Issue has not re-occured, but I did find that the newer 'timing' lights contain an RPM measure and it was very accurate. I checked timing on the cruiser and it was fine. I think this issue is fixed.
Update: Feb: Hav'nt fixed this as well. But its only happens once in last 4 months, so its better. Cant see any patern to it.
Sometime I'll start the car and tacho stops after an hour, other times tacho wont start at all. However, its only about 10-20% of drives, so its not a regular thing.
Again, some people here have the issue. The tacho cable is a black cable from the coil, that also connects to the emmisions control box AND the AC control box. strangly, the stuttering issue, some people identified to the Tacho, but their is no relation to the tacho working/not working to the stuttering issue. Some research says that the Tacho signal, is just a pulse on a 12V lead, (actually could also be ground lead, as its black) a voltage tested does not see it, but a light tested does (light flickers on the coil output). However its likely the tacho is really sensitive to voltage drops? However also note, only once did the tacho start working after it was not. All other times, the Tacho would fail the entire trip, only to work the next one. I'm also worried about GROUND everywhere? but i dont have any other electrical gremlins.
things it could be?
- New Coil and Resister: DONE
- reterminate all cables on coil - DONE
- Check Voltages on Coil - DONE
- replace spark leads - DONE
- Add disconnect switch on Redarc charger. (in case its causing issues)
- removed Emissions controller - Car stopped, would not start. plugged back in and all ok.
- Clean All Ground cables to master loom (under drivers feet)
- Pull Dash and check cables into Tacho: next
- Get another Tacho: next
- replace Emissions controller and AC controller: next
- Re-Ground everything? Put in extra Ground Taps between chassis and fenders etc.
Update. 3rd Sept. Problem did not occur for a long time after replaces the coil/resister/cables. Thought that was the issue, but it recently occurred again. I cleaned ( with grinder) all the ground wires under the drivers footwell, which I think feeds the instrument cluster). Waiting to see if it fails again, next trick will be to pul the dash (trying really to avoid this).
Update: 15th Sept. Issue has not re-occured, however Attempted to connect a 3rd Party Tach to the Coil (Amazon) and its not working. Suspect that these aftermarket Tacho's use a standard live 5v rail of modern digital cars, and not these old girls.
Update: 3rd 10th. Issue has not re-occured, but I did find that the newer 'timing' lights contain an RPM measure and it was very accurate. I checked timing on the cruiser and it was fine. I think this issue is fixed.
Update: Feb: Hav'nt fixed this as well. But its only happens once in last 4 months, so its better. Cant see any patern to it.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #148
Some notes on a small problem. The AC Idle Vac switch was toast. I pulled it and connected to a battery and it was not switching anything. I ordered a new vac switch, but couldn't get exact one and ended up with the one for the 4wd transfer. This has the same two vac tubes as the AC idle. It has the wrong electrical connector, but I used jumper wires to test it. A few points. With engine running, unplug both vac tubes and just hold them to each other and you can see what it does. It movesd a small diagrpham on the front of the carb, which moves a trigger on the throttle. I connected the new switch up to test and found that the VAC switch, allows AIR when in a idle state (nill 12V), you can hear it sucking air. When 12V is applied sound goes away. Not sure if this is normal, but I also found that I had the vac tubes the wrong way around, proved by the fact the AC switch was not triggering the diaphragm at all. Also, the diaphragm, and resulting trigger does not 'MOVE' the throttle, but instead resets its rest position. which means when you switch it on/off, the RPM do not change, BUT if you rev the engine, it will idle higher when it rests again. You can see how it all works by looking at the mechanism. This just means, you need to know this when testing it. In the end, It was working, but I'm going to order a proper AC idle switch (and not the 4WD one) I was using.
- Thread starter
- #149
Some notes on those painting. I had some orange peel on some bits, including the drivers door. I recently did a course on polishing and detailing and this covered wetsanding with 1500-2000-3000 then polish/buff. Further up you can see I painted with primer, then thick primer with some sanding, then 3 coats of base colour, no clear. I started the wetsand process and it worked great, but i some parts (mainly edges) I was getting through to the primer! I used a paint-thickness measuring thingy and it was between 20-50nm. in my course we had 120nm thick paint!! So I guess that this old style paint, is actually pretty thin, without using clear. Something to consider.
- Thread starter
- #150
Another day another story. I flattened the battery (left car on for 3 days). I have the red-arc system, and had some charging issues that are common with these things, mainly related to jump-starting and mains charging, so I put a 50 amp, click fuse (with a button to force it off). Anyway, I was measuring 10v, which was not enought to crank, and I stuck my Norco battery starter on it, and found that it was measuring 0V across the batter with it turned on, and now zero lights on dashbaord. It turns out, that the Redarc was seeing voltage on the starter battery from the charger and thinking it would charge at 25amp, which just made nothing work. I tripped the relay fuse and the 60 started just fine. Lesson learnt again.
I let the car run with a small bit of handthrottle up to 1500rpm, and I let the batter charge a bit from the engine. When I left it a while and walked back I could see a small bit of smoke near the battery. it turns out the plastic protection cap on the alternatine line/fusable link from the starter batter was melting because the small screw connector but on the 12V line was really hot. I checked the current monitor and the primary battery was charging at a full 60amps (I actually have an 80amp bosche upgraded alternator), and this going through that small nut-joiner was too much and was hot. I turned it off, and then removed the plastic cover and cleaned the terminals. I did actually replaced this fusable link, and I may have used too small a round terminal, but both sides are pretty small. 60amp was making it hot. After cleaning (grinding the terminal actually), I put it back and re-tested and again it got hot, but not smoking. I think I might replace the crimp terminals with proper batter style crimps (not the ones with red plastic on it) (I have a 5T crimper) and see if that works.
I let the car run with a small bit of handthrottle up to 1500rpm, and I let the batter charge a bit from the engine. When I left it a while and walked back I could see a small bit of smoke near the battery. it turns out the plastic protection cap on the alternatine line/fusable link from the starter batter was melting because the small screw connector but on the 12V line was really hot. I checked the current monitor and the primary battery was charging at a full 60amps (I actually have an 80amp bosche upgraded alternator), and this going through that small nut-joiner was too much and was hot. I turned it off, and then removed the plastic cover and cleaned the terminals. I did actually replaced this fusable link, and I may have used too small a round terminal, but both sides are pretty small. 60amp was making it hot. After cleaning (grinding the terminal actually), I put it back and re-tested and again it got hot, but not smoking. I think I might replace the crimp terminals with proper batter style crimps (not the ones with red plastic on it) (I have a 5T crimper) and see if that works.
- Thread starter
- #151
So some adventure in Brakes. Most of the brake wheel hardware was from browny so no idea of history, and it never did stop well, so during all the various auto sales I picked up parts. Mainly DBA LN106 brake Calipers, Vented Rotors. Terrain Taimer rear rebuild hit and some DBA pistons and pads, and I also had a Terraim Taimer Hub rebuild kit.
This is a large job, and I decided to use the old parts car chasis as a test, so I pulled its hubs/rotors of to test skills. This helped save some time as i could prep and the parts before pulling whitey apart. I followed the various Rotor and hub replacement video's and it was straight forward, just lots of damn steps and things to get right.
Pulling the hubs and replacing the bearings is ok. Get a brass Drift etc. If your planning on doing this more then once get a seal insert kit (basically lots of flat disks to bash seals in). I killed two seals trying to do the crossways drift method. I had Blue penright grease, for bearings and Moly for knuckles. When I pulled the drivers apart I had no plans to do the knuck. The grease inside was still thick, if not much of it. however when i pulled the passenger side I got grey liquid, hence I decided to do a whole knuckle. Each Brake was a good 6-8 hours, with the knuckle another 6. Removing the knuckle was ok, only issue was a stuck steering point (dont use a hammer if you intend on keeping it).
Aligning the Axle back (in fact getting it out) was very difficult. The flat parts on top and bottom of the joint needs to be up/down perfectly. This means you need to rotate the wheel. I had to lift both front wheels and move the drivers wheel and inch at a time before I found the place it comes out. Its a very small place when it comes loose. I also became good at loosening brake lines. Using a jet lighter, heat it up and then it comes undone quickly. The Soft/hardline interaction is trickly, their is a certain order the the brake line ends, one end moves and one does not. You need to get the joint clip (behind) and circlip (front side) all working correctly. I used a soft-line clip to stop brake fluid and this worked well.
Bashing the axle studs was straight forward. i bashed them out with brass drift, with hub sitting on a Pine 4x4. I used new studs and bashed them into the old hub using a spare wheel as a base(worked briliantly) and the brass drift. It takes some time but works. Make sure you measure all studs to ensure they are all in at the end.
The LN106 calipers are slightly larger. thus needs some cutting of the dust cover. You take about 5mm of the high side and about 12mm of the low side. I thought I did it enought, but had issues, thus I used by right-angle milwaukee cutter while it was in place and this was really easy. just ensure you hit it with some primer/paint to protect against rust.
Parts used:
Calipers: Dbac1006 and Dbac1007
Rotos: DBA T2 4x4 Slotted Brake Rotor Pair 302mm Front DBA151S.
TT REAR BRAKE SPRING KIT: HBK1
TT WHEEL CYLINDER REAR: JB2797
TT BRAKE SHOE KIT SUIT: 04495-60060TT
DBA have a heavier duty rotors but they are double the price. You also need brake pads, but I'm not sure I got right ones (LN106) as I had to shave it a little to fit (fit car, not calliper).
This is a large job, and I decided to use the old parts car chasis as a test, so I pulled its hubs/rotors of to test skills. This helped save some time as i could prep and the parts before pulling whitey apart. I followed the various Rotor and hub replacement video's and it was straight forward, just lots of damn steps and things to get right.
Pulling the hubs and replacing the bearings is ok. Get a brass Drift etc. If your planning on doing this more then once get a seal insert kit (basically lots of flat disks to bash seals in). I killed two seals trying to do the crossways drift method. I had Blue penright grease, for bearings and Moly for knuckles. When I pulled the drivers apart I had no plans to do the knuck. The grease inside was still thick, if not much of it. however when i pulled the passenger side I got grey liquid, hence I decided to do a whole knuckle. Each Brake was a good 6-8 hours, with the knuckle another 6. Removing the knuckle was ok, only issue was a stuck steering point (dont use a hammer if you intend on keeping it).
Aligning the Axle back (in fact getting it out) was very difficult. The flat parts on top and bottom of the joint needs to be up/down perfectly. This means you need to rotate the wheel. I had to lift both front wheels and move the drivers wheel and inch at a time before I found the place it comes out. Its a very small place when it comes loose. I also became good at loosening brake lines. Using a jet lighter, heat it up and then it comes undone quickly. The Soft/hardline interaction is trickly, their is a certain order the the brake line ends, one end moves and one does not. You need to get the joint clip (behind) and circlip (front side) all working correctly. I used a soft-line clip to stop brake fluid and this worked well.
Bashing the axle studs was straight forward. i bashed them out with brass drift, with hub sitting on a Pine 4x4. I used new studs and bashed them into the old hub using a spare wheel as a base(worked briliantly) and the brass drift. It takes some time but works. Make sure you measure all studs to ensure they are all in at the end.
The LN106 calipers are slightly larger. thus needs some cutting of the dust cover. You take about 5mm of the high side and about 12mm of the low side. I thought I did it enought, but had issues, thus I used by right-angle milwaukee cutter while it was in place and this was really easy. just ensure you hit it with some primer/paint to protect against rust.
Parts used:
Calipers: Dbac1006 and Dbac1007
Rotos: DBA T2 4x4 Slotted Brake Rotor Pair 302mm Front DBA151S.
TT REAR BRAKE SPRING KIT: HBK1
TT WHEEL CYLINDER REAR: JB2797
TT BRAKE SHOE KIT SUIT: 04495-60060TT
DBA have a heavier duty rotors but they are double the price. You also need brake pads, but I'm not sure I got right ones (LN106) as I had to shave it a little to fit (fit car, not calliper).
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- Thread starter
- #152
Rear brakes I used the same method of gettin the old brakes of the parts car and getting it all ready. Only the dust cover and hand brake crank is original. The terraim taimer kit is good, but watch all of the available video's. I found two methods. A) put everything in place and try to put main springs in last. B) put everything together on bench including the main spring and stretch it into place. Neither is any better. Those main springs are damn hard and you will swear a lot. PS make notes of where the springs attach. the newer brakes pads have 4 extra holes, so when you put it back together you quickly forget which one the spring connects too.
Also note, their is a ih8mud thread on "rear brake self-adjusting over tightening'. This points to the replacement parts sets having different thickness pins and clips. The original has (layers). 1. Brake-Pad, 2. Press-close large circlip, 3.Handbrake plate, 4. small washer, 5. small clip. The kit only comes with 'Press-close large circlip' as replacement. the others you need to keep (dont loose that circlip, it will be a pain to replace). Apparently if you have too much 'play' in this section, the auto-adust will 'bounce' closed when brakes are not applied on rough roads, hence over-tighens over time. It seems ok to me with the washer and circlip in place, but when you compare the old to new, they are not exactly the same.
Next issue was the drums. I bought new Bosche ones which said they woudl fit, They did, BUT (it took me towo brake-downs to find out), the adjuster had to be within 0 or 1 thread wind of being closed for the drum to go on (It was originally about 20 threads space). I ended up going with the old drums after a clean up and the adjust went back to about 12 threads space. Make a noted of the threads (take a pic) to ensure you have this correct. ALSO, the number of thread space availabe affects 'where' the adjuster sits in the rear 'window' you need to adjust it. I was having trouble adjusting the brakes BECAUSE it was down to one thread and you really could not reach it through the window with a screw driver. HENCE. practice adjusting the brakes with the Drum off and take a video of where everything sits when you adjust it. You will thank yourself later.
Final issue (so far) is the hand-brake. you can read lots on how to adjust this. After following this and failing, this is what I recommend.
1. undo the adjuster nut all the way (but not off) on handle (handbrake) to ensure you have lots of free play.
2. Make sure both springs are on the hand-brake crank (rear of drum) (one is not enough).
3. Make sure the internal handbrake link cable (inside the drum)is on the semi-circle externer pivot correctly. Give everything a pull/wiggle to ensure its in place. With the drum off, reach arround and pull the handbrake cable to see how it all works.
4. Make sure ensite brake pad assemble is within the edges of the dust plate (it has about 1cm play), and wants to sit low.
5. Unwind the adjuster to to about 10-15 thread.
6. Check that the handbrake crank 'stopper'. (a bolt on back of the drum, connected to the crank) is the same distance from the dust plate on both sides (passenger and driver) (this limits the 'off' position tun, but both sides should be the same). Its a way to ensure the handbrake lever works both sides. Pull hand brake and check distance again. They should be the same.
7. TEST how you tighen/loosen the adjuster, make notes of where the wheel is and where you need to insert something to release spring). Get used to doing this. Take a video with drum off while you do it.
8. Put Drum on, (if it does not fit, tighten the adjuster) and make sure you can easily turn the wheel (lift both sides of the car on jacks). while turning the wheel, set the adjuster (tighen) untill the wheel stops turning, the back off 3 clicks. NOTE: You 'tighen' the adjust easily, by moving the ratchet wheel. You cant loosen however without a lot of force because the plate spring is in lock position, hence its a two screwdriver job to 'loosen'. yOu should know this from step 7.
9. Pull handbrake and visually check how its all working. It will click about 9--15 clicks (way too much). This is ok, as the adjuster are not set properly yet. Tighen the handle adjusting nut some more, but not all the way. you might get it down to 10 click or so.
10. put wheel on. Pull handbrake 15-20 times while parked. go for a drive. pull handbrake in both forward and reverse (I'm pretty sure if does not matter). The adjuster will start to auto-set itself. go for a drive etc. However, you will likely notice the handbrake is still not taking correctly. At this point, Tighetn the handbrake nut till you get 6-7 clicks of pull. This is the 'power-band' of the handle.
11. Check out handbrake on a hill.
The entire mechanism is within millimetres of being right and wrong. What I did wrong was setting the adjuster etc, with the handbrake Nut fullly on. This limits the fact you need to tighen it more (I ran out of screw thread to start with). Also I only had one return crank spring(back of the drum). These two springs 'Fight' with the spring inside the brake (bottom one). If you dont have it right you loose 3-4 mm of travel in the handbrake cable. Also double check where the handbrake cable routes and the T-Junction on back diff. honestly if any part of this stuff is 10mm out, your handbrake wont work properly. FUN job.
Also note, their is a ih8mud thread on "rear brake self-adjusting over tightening'. This points to the replacement parts sets having different thickness pins and clips. The original has (layers). 1. Brake-Pad, 2. Press-close large circlip, 3.Handbrake plate, 4. small washer, 5. small clip. The kit only comes with 'Press-close large circlip' as replacement. the others you need to keep (dont loose that circlip, it will be a pain to replace). Apparently if you have too much 'play' in this section, the auto-adust will 'bounce' closed when brakes are not applied on rough roads, hence over-tighens over time. It seems ok to me with the washer and circlip in place, but when you compare the old to new, they are not exactly the same.
Next issue was the drums. I bought new Bosche ones which said they woudl fit, They did, BUT (it took me towo brake-downs to find out), the adjuster had to be within 0 or 1 thread wind of being closed for the drum to go on (It was originally about 20 threads space). I ended up going with the old drums after a clean up and the adjust went back to about 12 threads space. Make a noted of the threads (take a pic) to ensure you have this correct. ALSO, the number of thread space availabe affects 'where' the adjuster sits in the rear 'window' you need to adjust it. I was having trouble adjusting the brakes BECAUSE it was down to one thread and you really could not reach it through the window with a screw driver. HENCE. practice adjusting the brakes with the Drum off and take a video of where everything sits when you adjust it. You will thank yourself later.
Final issue (so far) is the hand-brake. you can read lots on how to adjust this. After following this and failing, this is what I recommend.
1. undo the adjuster nut all the way (but not off) on handle (handbrake) to ensure you have lots of free play.
2. Make sure both springs are on the hand-brake crank (rear of drum) (one is not enough).
3. Make sure the internal handbrake link cable (inside the drum)is on the semi-circle externer pivot correctly. Give everything a pull/wiggle to ensure its in place. With the drum off, reach arround and pull the handbrake cable to see how it all works.
4. Make sure ensite brake pad assemble is within the edges of the dust plate (it has about 1cm play), and wants to sit low.
5. Unwind the adjuster to to about 10-15 thread.
6. Check that the handbrake crank 'stopper'. (a bolt on back of the drum, connected to the crank) is the same distance from the dust plate on both sides (passenger and driver) (this limits the 'off' position tun, but both sides should be the same). Its a way to ensure the handbrake lever works both sides. Pull hand brake and check distance again. They should be the same.
7. TEST how you tighen/loosen the adjuster, make notes of where the wheel is and where you need to insert something to release spring). Get used to doing this. Take a video with drum off while you do it.
8. Put Drum on, (if it does not fit, tighten the adjuster) and make sure you can easily turn the wheel (lift both sides of the car on jacks). while turning the wheel, set the adjuster (tighen) untill the wheel stops turning, the back off 3 clicks. NOTE: You 'tighen' the adjust easily, by moving the ratchet wheel. You cant loosen however without a lot of force because the plate spring is in lock position, hence its a two screwdriver job to 'loosen'. yOu should know this from step 7.
9. Pull handbrake and visually check how its all working. It will click about 9--15 clicks (way too much). This is ok, as the adjuster are not set properly yet. Tighen the handle adjusting nut some more, but not all the way. you might get it down to 10 click or so.
10. put wheel on. Pull handbrake 15-20 times while parked. go for a drive. pull handbrake in both forward and reverse (I'm pretty sure if does not matter). The adjuster will start to auto-set itself. go for a drive etc. However, you will likely notice the handbrake is still not taking correctly. At this point, Tighetn the handbrake nut till you get 6-7 clicks of pull. This is the 'power-band' of the handle.
11. Check out handbrake on a hill.
The entire mechanism is within millimetres of being right and wrong. What I did wrong was setting the adjuster etc, with the handbrake Nut fullly on. This limits the fact you need to tighen it more (I ran out of screw thread to start with). Also I only had one return crank spring(back of the drum). These two springs 'Fight' with the spring inside the brake (bottom one). If you dont have it right you loose 3-4 mm of travel in the handbrake cable. Also double check where the handbrake cable routes and the T-Junction on back diff. honestly if any part of this stuff is 10mm out, your handbrake wont work properly. FUN job.
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- Thread starter
- #153
One more BIG LESSON.
I did some test drives around home and fully emergency stopped like 20 times with the truck pulling up really well. I then went for a longer drive on a hotter day and I noticed i was loosing power, I could hardly accel up slight hills. When I pulled up at lights, I found that I had a super-hard brake pedal and the brakes were locked. I could move a bit so I pulled over. I thought it was the 'rear brake over tighten' thing, and I could adjust one side, but not the other. I forced drove the car back another 3Km, and when I pulled over again I hasd smoke off the front disk. So it was not a rear issue, but all brake issue. Time to test my insurance road-side assist and got a tow back home.
iI released a bleed nipple on the front and suddenly the brake pedal relaxed. I did a bit of research and found that the brake pedal needs 'releaf' at the top of its travel. (I think this is the point that it 'releases' its pressure). if the brake pedal never reaches this level, it will always be 'on' and applying pressure. Apparently major brake work can change the release points etc. The fix is to wind-down (anti-clockwise) the cleaver behind the brake pedal (after you release the lock nut.
So a lot of fiddling around I also found that the 'brake light switch' also plays a part in limiting the 'releaf' in the brake pedal. The light was basically wound fully out, and it hits a small rubber stopper on the brake pedal. I had to remove the switch (2 14mm nuts), in order to get the pedal forward enough to get the cleaver out to undo it a bit. I checked the FSM (180mm from floor to pedal) and set the measurements all correct again. Wound the cleaver about 6 times, and shortened the brake switch about 10mm. It took a while to align the brake switch as it needs to 'just' touch the pedal for the switch to operate (which turns lights off). I did another test run and so far its not repeated this issue. thanks goodness.
So check this thing if you are doing a full brake job. NOTE. There is another adjusting rod 'inside' the brake booster between the brake master. This apparently also can be set wrong, and as I did'nt know this when I put it together I have no idea if its correct. I suspect if its too far out you get excessive play, and too far in you get the same brake lock issue. I have ordered this 'H measure' so I'll see if I can check it later on.
I did some test drives around home and fully emergency stopped like 20 times with the truck pulling up really well. I then went for a longer drive on a hotter day and I noticed i was loosing power, I could hardly accel up slight hills. When I pulled up at lights, I found that I had a super-hard brake pedal and the brakes were locked. I could move a bit so I pulled over. I thought it was the 'rear brake over tighten' thing, and I could adjust one side, but not the other. I forced drove the car back another 3Km, and when I pulled over again I hasd smoke off the front disk. So it was not a rear issue, but all brake issue. Time to test my insurance road-side assist and got a tow back home.
iI released a bleed nipple on the front and suddenly the brake pedal relaxed. I did a bit of research and found that the brake pedal needs 'releaf' at the top of its travel. (I think this is the point that it 'releases' its pressure). if the brake pedal never reaches this level, it will always be 'on' and applying pressure. Apparently major brake work can change the release points etc. The fix is to wind-down (anti-clockwise) the cleaver behind the brake pedal (after you release the lock nut.
So a lot of fiddling around I also found that the 'brake light switch' also plays a part in limiting the 'releaf' in the brake pedal. The light was basically wound fully out, and it hits a small rubber stopper on the brake pedal. I had to remove the switch (2 14mm nuts), in order to get the pedal forward enough to get the cleaver out to undo it a bit. I checked the FSM (180mm from floor to pedal) and set the measurements all correct again. Wound the cleaver about 6 times, and shortened the brake switch about 10mm. It took a while to align the brake switch as it needs to 'just' touch the pedal for the switch to operate (which turns lights off). I did another test run and so far its not repeated this issue. thanks goodness.
So check this thing if you are doing a full brake job. NOTE. There is another adjusting rod 'inside' the brake booster between the brake master. This apparently also can be set wrong, and as I did'nt know this when I put it together I have no idea if its correct. I suspect if its too far out you get excessive play, and too far in you get the same brake lock issue. I have ordered this 'H measure' so I'll see if I can check it later on.
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- Thread starter
- #154
another Drive, another issue. Good thing is, brakes are now great. I also drove up and down some very large hills with no issue. Anyway, on the way home, I noticed the volts on main battery dropped to 12.3V. When it should be at 14V with the alternator on. The car was fine, but I came straight home. I found the wires from the Alternator had broken off. this was a rather original connection. Some info. At the Alternator end, it is two white wires, one very think, one normal thick. These bolt on to a screw point just under where the round 3 pin plug goes. This is the 12V. (actually more like 18V when nothing connected). At the battery end, its only one white wire connecting through a bolt/lug thingy to a fusable link to the battery. Somewhere in the loom two wires become one.
However, if you disconnect the wire at the battery end and start the car, the car will run very rough (wont idle at all, needs throttle). If you connect the battery end cable (with the Alternator end disconnected), it comes good. So this wire is connnecting to other things somewhere. Anyways, I reterminated the twin cables to a single 6mm lug (using Hydralic crimper 4T, its not coming loose). All is good again.
I also think that the upgraded Alternator (80amp), with the Redarc that will take 25amp, and the main battery, this alternator wire/fusable links gets damn Hot to touch. I feel this needs an upgrade (which many threads describe).
However, if you disconnect the wire at the battery end and start the car, the car will run very rough (wont idle at all, needs throttle). If you connect the battery end cable (with the Alternator end disconnected), it comes good. So this wire is connnecting to other things somewhere. Anyways, I reterminated the twin cables to a single 6mm lug (using Hydralic crimper 4T, its not coming loose). All is good again.
I also think that the upgraded Alternator (80amp), with the Redarc that will take 25amp, and the main battery, this alternator wire/fusable links gets damn Hot to touch. I feel this needs an upgrade (which many threads describe).
- Thread starter
- #155
Some pics of the larst few steps.
Redo of the Rear Brakes. new Pads, Cylinder, everything removed, cleaned and put back.
Close up of this mechanism. Some notes are: 1. Take a video of you adjusting it from behinds so you know exactly where to place the screwdrivers and which way to wind. 2. This should be the approx number of 'thread' you should have. More or Less and you likely have an issue., as the handbrake mechanism is so finely tuned to the mm.
Also, this adjusting nut (you should not need to touch it), is showing the position of the handbrake. 1. Both sides should have the same GAP. if not, find out why.
Beware of 'suction' when putting the hub on (actually more when pulling it off). It feels like its a 'lip' that you are pulling againsts, but I reckon is actually suction. Just rock back and forth and the hub should come off easily.
Redo of the Rear Brakes. new Pads, Cylinder, everything removed, cleaned and put back.
Close up of this mechanism. Some notes are: 1. Take a video of you adjusting it from behinds so you know exactly where to place the screwdrivers and which way to wind. 2. This should be the approx number of 'thread' you should have. More or Less and you likely have an issue., as the handbrake mechanism is so finely tuned to the mm.
Also, this adjusting nut (you should not need to touch it), is showing the position of the handbrake. 1. Both sides should have the same GAP. if not, find out why.
Beware of 'suction' when putting the hub on (actually more when pulling it off). It feels like its a 'lip' that you are pulling againsts, but I reckon is actually suction. Just rock back and forth and the hub should come off easily.
- Thread starter
- #156
Front Brakes all cleaned up.
My 'colour pallete' is white/black with red accents. So the Calipers were painted (Raptor Caliper paint first, but it went on dull, so went to a Dupoint' red caliper paint. Also the Aisen Hubs are normally 'bronze', but I wanted them red, so I just sprayed some caliper paint in a lid and used a hobby paint brush. Came up great. the 'shiney' part of the the hubs are easily cleaned (metal polish) and the other parts cleaned, wirewheeled and painted black, including the bolts. You will 'mark' then when you tighted then, but just touch up. DONT spray paint after tightening as you actually lock it on and you will kick yourself in a couple of years.
Bashing studs in while sitting on a spare wheel.
Preping all the parts.
ok, here's a tricky one.
unfortunately I dont have a picture to describe this. This is the Lower Hub connector part. This has a PIN that goes from the bottom up through a bearing tin the diff, that is actually what the entire wheel pivots on. This positions the toe-in of the wheel on the hub. According to everything I read, the PIN is in the CENTRE of these 4 bolts (that indent sort of makes it look that way). However, when I started to put mine back together I found it was 'OFFSET' to one side. This actually meant that depending on which way you inserted this part (in the picture above) you would Toe-in or Toe-out about 5mm (which would be more like 5cm at the bottom of the wheel. Trouble is I didn't know which way it went. BUT luckily I had the other wheel still together and I found a 'number 2' stamped onto the part facing the front of the car. I positioned the new one the same way, so this means they should both be pointing toe in the same direction. This was a 'ahh ferk' moment! I only found one other post that mentions this, and every pic on ebay etc only shows the centre pin versions. No idea if this is standard or aftermarket?
I gave the car a FULL front wheel alignment BEFORE I started all this work. Now I've driven it, I'm not seeing any wobble or shake so I assume I dont need to do it after.
My 'colour pallete' is white/black with red accents. So the Calipers were painted (Raptor Caliper paint first, but it went on dull, so went to a Dupoint' red caliper paint. Also the Aisen Hubs are normally 'bronze', but I wanted them red, so I just sprayed some caliper paint in a lid and used a hobby paint brush. Came up great. the 'shiney' part of the the hubs are easily cleaned (metal polish) and the other parts cleaned, wirewheeled and painted black, including the bolts. You will 'mark' then when you tighted then, but just touch up. DONT spray paint after tightening as you actually lock it on and you will kick yourself in a couple of years.
Bashing studs in while sitting on a spare wheel.
Preping all the parts.
ok, here's a tricky one.
unfortunately I dont have a picture to describe this. This is the Lower Hub connector part. This has a PIN that goes from the bottom up through a bearing tin the diff, that is actually what the entire wheel pivots on. This positions the toe-in of the wheel on the hub. According to everything I read, the PIN is in the CENTRE of these 4 bolts (that indent sort of makes it look that way). However, when I started to put mine back together I found it was 'OFFSET' to one side. This actually meant that depending on which way you inserted this part (in the picture above) you would Toe-in or Toe-out about 5mm (which would be more like 5cm at the bottom of the wheel. Trouble is I didn't know which way it went. BUT luckily I had the other wheel still together and I found a 'number 2' stamped onto the part facing the front of the car. I positioned the new one the same way, so this means they should both be pointing toe in the same direction. This was a 'ahh ferk' moment! I only found one other post that mentions this, and every pic on ebay etc only shows the centre pin versions. No idea if this is standard or aftermarket?
I gave the car a FULL front wheel alignment BEFORE I started all this work. Now I've driven it, I'm not seeing any wobble or shake so I assume I dont need to do it after.
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- Thread starter
- #157
Another 'ahh Ferk' moment.
You can see on the rear axle here, a PIN, that helps align it. The HUB has a hole it goes in. With my parts car etc, I had a hub missing with a broken stud, so I ended up cleanin up two Passenger side hubs, thinking they were the same. THEY ARE NOT. Passenger side bub/axle has two pins. Drivers side has ONE PIN. Thanks goodness I had the original hub that I just cleaned up. PS these bloody cone washers needed a s***-ton of heat(Heat the axle, not the washer) and hammer. You can see some slight impacts on the axle here, which I'll call 'branding' marks.
- Thread starter
- #158
Did I mention I have a boat. 1975 era Savage Fibreglass, also fully restored after a tree cut it in half. The two make quite a pair, old school.
Had to check some wiring and redo some crimps to get all the lights working. Towed it well and the handbrake held on the ramp (I used a chock as well, which is just habit. I subscribe to a facebook group 'fails at boat ramps' and its so easy to kill your truck if the brakes dont hold). The boat had been sitting 'behind' the 60 in the driveway, so hadn't been out for 2 years and it needed some work. The day this pic was taken, the boat did not go well, would'nt accell past 1000rpm, so I spent the day close to the ramp. However my new-found mechanical skills had be buying a carb re-build kit and fully doing the job.
Had to check some wiring and redo some crimps to get all the lights working. Towed it well and the handbrake held on the ramp (I used a chock as well, which is just habit. I subscribe to a facebook group 'fails at boat ramps' and its so easy to kill your truck if the brakes dont hold). The boat had been sitting 'behind' the 60 in the driveway, so hadn't been out for 2 years and it needed some work. The day this pic was taken, the boat did not go well, would'nt accell past 1000rpm, so I spent the day close to the ramp. However my new-found mechanical skills had be buying a carb re-build kit and fully doing the job.
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- Thread starter
- #159
Some current pics with Roof Rack on. Rook Rack is an IRONMAN from a high-roof, but they still sell the low-roof backets. I like the slanted front. My Stedi Quads found a home. (I prefer the Baja Designs on the front as I really like to see the Toyota Badge). I wired through the rear air-vent to distribution box in rear. Drifta Awning, did'nt want a bit 270 one, and a Caos Box so now my boot is free. I found a mount for the Jerry Can from Ebay (I would'nt bother as its just hollowed out foam.
- Thread starter
- #160
Becuase I'm driving it a lot, finding some small issues. Besides the Carb draining issues.
My AC belt was sqeaking. I'm used to this issue now. you need to screw OUT (anti-clock wise) the AC Idle Pulley adjust nut from underneath. Get 14mm socket and every extention you have. Use a 'short' socket, and Push the BOLT UP and turn anti-clock wise. This moves the pully up, which tightens the belt, BUT it you dont push up, the two bolts at the top will NOT Turn, and because you are anit-clockwise they will undo and fall off and then your in for a 3 hour job getting them back on (ask me how I know). Also found AC Idle up was not really engaging consistently (boosts the RPM slightly when you turn the AC on). I checked for vacuum and at the engager it was average but before the valve switch it was great. The Valve seems to be vented (This is not OEM, but soething i fixed before) and venting was loosing vacuum and also causing a vac leak in that system, so I plugged up the escape hold and its engaging fully now, but no idea what else I messed up doing this.
Now I have wiper issues (used them for the first time yesterday). They are getting 'stuck' with what seems to be either excessive force on glass (wipers dont move well) or the motor is lacking power. I dont think its a connector/leverage issue inside the cowling as I have no movement/shake at all. I also bypassed the Earth direct to the battery and Its not an issue. I do only have 11.6V on the input to the wiper, which is LOW (just the old wiring) or the Relay under the steering wheel. I wonder if it needs a Relay bypass like I did with the door window etc?
My AC belt was sqeaking. I'm used to this issue now. you need to screw OUT (anti-clock wise) the AC Idle Pulley adjust nut from underneath. Get 14mm socket and every extention you have. Use a 'short' socket, and Push the BOLT UP and turn anti-clock wise. This moves the pully up, which tightens the belt, BUT it you dont push up, the two bolts at the top will NOT Turn, and because you are anit-clockwise they will undo and fall off and then your in for a 3 hour job getting them back on (ask me how I know). Also found AC Idle up was not really engaging consistently (boosts the RPM slightly when you turn the AC on). I checked for vacuum and at the engager it was average but before the valve switch it was great. The Valve seems to be vented (This is not OEM, but soething i fixed before) and venting was loosing vacuum and also causing a vac leak in that system, so I plugged up the escape hold and its engaging fully now, but no idea what else I messed up doing this.
Now I have wiper issues (used them for the first time yesterday). They are getting 'stuck' with what seems to be either excessive force on glass (wipers dont move well) or the motor is lacking power. I dont think its a connector/leverage issue inside the cowling as I have no movement/shake at all. I also bypassed the Earth direct to the battery and Its not an issue. I do only have 11.6V on the input to the wiper, which is LOW (just the old wiring) or the Relay under the steering wheel. I wonder if it needs a Relay bypass like I did with the door window etc?
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