Builds Barons white FJ62 log

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Worked on a few things today. My drivers side window needs replacing. I ordered a new one (full size, their have two sizes, the other is 1/4 window version). While the windsceen was going in, I asked the dude how to replace the window-channel and his advice was to break the window. I decided against that, and tried WD40 etc to lube the rubber channel insert and the metal, was able to get one corner out about 5mm and fate decided the rest of plan (and 30mins cleaning up the broken glass everywhere).

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Getting the broken glass out of the channel was another exercise in patience. Using long-nose pliers to full all the glass out was time consumingI wirewheeled the end parts and rubber, channel with Inox. Put the rubber in the channel and you 'slide' from one end (dont stick it on flat and expect to push it down). It went on smoothly, with a bit of pressure. I did'nt use glue or anything, I figure the inox will eventually dry off and what remains should work. I put the window back in (pulling the rubber channel out first, so its just sitting in the full rail.

I'll check tmrw to see how it all works and if it stays in the channel.
 
Next Job was remote-central locking. i got a Viper 3400 alarm module, which has central locking. It supports many types of lock types. The FJ62 is 'reverse polarised'. i.e Each Lock has two cables, to Lock, one is positive/other is negative. To unlock, they reverse. At 'rest' they are both negative. The Viper needs either two relays for a 451Door relay module (apparently, these are common for many alarms and plenty of doco on this.

The wiring for the lockets, involve cutting the two cables, obtaining 12V power. Using this diagram from the 451 manual:

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The colour match this diagram. I cut the blue/red and blue/white cables at the large white/4core connector-loom to switch cable. put in some terminals and did all this wiring. The Blue cable at this point is constant 12V. (the white/black is ground).

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above is the 451 relay set. about $40

Now the above diagram misses some detail. The relay points themselves are not drawn on this diagram, but they are:

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The green/blue on the 451 relay, connect to the lock/unlock cable on the Viper. However 12V is not not automatically wired (I could have, but only figured this out after dash went in). so I wired the 12V pin 2, back to the 12V constant in the rest of the arrangement.

A few points: If the relays knock, but dont trigger it means your got the blue-green backwards. Easily fixed.

Anyway, I loomed up this wiring mess and stuck it in the door (after heaps of testing).

Also with the alarm, I found that a back-rear door was not triggering the central night-light (and hence the alarm). The Door triggers cables has 12V (from the light). Each door trigger (button in the door jam), will EARTH when door is open, and break (nothing) when door is closed. Hence when you open the door, it grounds the 12v through the light and the light comes on. This means if you dont get 12V at each of the door buttons, something is broken. The drivers, rear door, goes through, at least 3 single plugs before it reaches the mass-loom in the passenger rear quarter. (which is where my break was, as I suspect the PO tried to get 12V using this feed). Anyway, fixed it all up and now it works.

another tip, the central light has a 3 position switch, OFF (nothing connecting), ON, 12V from loom/ground from screw into roof, DOOR, 12v from loom, Earth from loom. Hence, if you dont screw the light in to the roof, you wont get 'ON' position working, but DOOR position will work.
 
Today was more about small jobs.

Put the rear speakers in. I got replacement ABS panels for the rear (as the OEM are crap and never look good). I had some quality 6x4inch speakers, which I wanted to use, but of course these would not fit into the original speaker slots. So I put a metal plate in the same screw holes. I then put the ABS panel on, and lined up the speaker cut-out. This gave me a pattern to cutout in the ABS plastic. (the small right-angle cutter and grinder made quick work of this, also drilled the screw holes). I then put the ABS over the metal, and then penciled out the whole on the metal and cut that (same tools). This finally gave me a cut-out. NOTE the speakers needed to be on an angle to fit. This was a bit fiddly but in the end a good results.

I then went back to drivers window. Damn these are tricky. A few tips
- Use the original short screws on anything that goes near the glass (the alignment bar is one). Anything longer will hit the glass and waste an hour).
- You have several points this need to adjust. a) the alignment bar one side is adjustable. b) the internal vertical chanel has 3 mm. c) The motor screws. NOTE tichening these too tight can cause bends which is bad.

Several hours later, you may have it working. I used an external 12V supply directly on the motor. Its all a bit crowded trying to use the switch/door card.

Also, if you have done any custom wiring, make sure its tied-down away from the window.

I got out the the rubber/plastic border guards for around the door. These has paint on them, but using a dupliclour vinyl/plastic they came up a treat. I also found that these site 'under' the door protectors.

Next I got out the door cards. These are still quite dirty but I wanted them installed at least to ensure they work. NOTE, these have another window-felt installed on them (for inside the window). I did'nt have enought of the little plastic inserts for the door, which hold the clips. I found that these were standard items sold at repco (champion brand). i just need to get some more.

On a bad note, I flattened the battery listening to the radio all day and playing with the winch. down to 9V. This was not enough to start. The 2nd battery had 12.4V, but I used some cheap jumper cables to connect the two battery's but this did'nt work. I then use the jumper cables and bypassed the main battery, but also this did'nt work, and the batter when down to 12.0V. I'm going to have to figure this out! maybe both just were not charged enough, but I also think the cheap jumper cables are not the go. Anyway, Whitey will have to sit out the night (under a car-cover of course) while the battery recharges.

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So a week of small jobs.

I got out the original mudflaps and flares. The cruiser has these large metal tails around the wheels, where the flares fit. These are pot-rivited into the panel, so you either commit to flares or you weld the holes up. I like the flares.

My original flares, I actually Raptor coated them originally. This was ok for the crap-cruiser at the time, and I did it with a roller brush. i figures this was permament so at some stage when I picked up some other parts I bought a new set of flares in gold (with one part in black, as the gold one was broken).

I cleaned these up, and the DA sander with 180grit, worked a treat. With a bit of pressure you could sand the paint back flat (but dont go too much as you hit glass, when one sand, but instead will 'strand'. ask me how I know.

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I sanded them all, but then discovered that the 'black' flare, was actually different. I pulled the raptor coated one out, and the black one did not have bolts on the top and one down the side, so it seems at some stage Toyota changed the design at some stage.

I then tried to 'sand' the Raptor coated flare, and to my suprise, this was very easy. the raptor was sanding down well to the underlying glass epoxy, and it looked like new. i then painted the lot with Rustoleam 2x primer and paint (I saw someone else do this), in gloss black and also clear coated. The end result was new flaes.

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I then did a bit of searching here to restore the mudflaps. Plenty of people had done it. On mine, the inside metal had desintegrated. I saw some people had rebuilt the metal, but I figure I'd see how well it goes on first. I wirewheeled it clean, got into the harder bits, and cleaned with waz and grease remover and then hit with the Black Vinyl paint and they came up great.

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I also ordered a new hood-protector locally, but the clips are too small so I'm chasing that down. I also painted the mudflap letters with white sharpie paint pen.

Fitting these could be interesting, but that can wait till the weekend.

I also visited my Mechanic and booked in for 2 weeks for Rego. Major job left is the roof-lining and still a ton of little jobs.
 
Lots of things done today. Lets start.

I ordered new hood-lining from Tru-fit. What arrives was a bit surpricing, it was like 'carpet' thick. Its actually looked good quality and fitted perfectly. I'm not 100% if looks like material that would survice heat, but time will tell. The main issue was, the supplied clips, were actually for a standard hood-liner (about 2mm thick, like thin cardboard.

I sent them an email, but also orders some misc clips from amazon, and these need to fit into a 5-6mm hole, and managed to find some combo's that worked. End result looks nice.

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Next job, the hood was not locking down, and I needed to do a fair bit of discovery to figure out why. I got out the USB inspection camera from Amazon, stuck it under the hood and looked what was happening when I close it. But now I can summarise it all.


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This is the hood latch. It is actually 3 mechanism that work in 2 stages.

Stage 1, when you close the hood slowly, and when it first engages the latch you hear one click. This is the finger-latch engaging. You can see the big-hook connected the latch. This engages with a side edge on the bonnet (not the u-pipe). At this point also, the u-pipe, goes into the slot but does not do anything. At this point, the cabin pull does nothing, and you can open the hood by using the finger latch. NOTE: At this point, the bonnet should NOT be resting on the bump-stops, in fact it should be very much 'high'.

Stage 2. When you press the hood down. The hood will press down all the way, and the latch will go into 'lock' mode. To engage this mode, you need to press the hood down 'all the way', but note, this is further down, then resting/lock position. HENCE the bump stops are 'all the way' and NOT 'resting/lock position'. If you wind the bump-stops UP, so that you have no play in the bonnet (i.e when you press down on the edge you get no movement, cause you wound them up), you run the Risk that you dont engage 'LOCK'. This also means the bump-stops are not meant to be used to 'level' the hood. I suspect you need to use the alignment of the levers to do this. Thats what was causing my problems (bonnet would not lock in, but I wound the bonnet stops up, do it was at least flat).

Now in stage 2. which is the 'locked' position. You should NOT be able to get fingers under the hood to the finger latch. the finger latch, actually, is no longer usefull, as the proper hood 'LOCK' is now engaged. Only the cabin pull, will unlock the hood from stage 2 to stage 1. Also note, then springs on the FJ62, should be strong enough to 'pop' the hood into stage 1. I know some early cruisers has a 'spring' on the hoods near where the latch engages.


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This is what the 'hood' latch looks like in stage 2. You can see the latch fully grabs the 'u-pipe' on the hood so its not going out. NOTE: to get the latch into this position, I used a screw-driver to lever the latch and then used a finger to move the lock-part into place. I was not able to just push a screw-0driver down into the lock as it was very stiff.

Now, as a 'community support', I waned to figure out, what would happen is the bonnet latch cable broke. It seems you would need to stick a long stick up from the bottom between the grill and AC condenser. I demonstrated using a phillips screwdriver. Insert into this space and lever the latch up, and it will 'spring' into the stage 2, open position.

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NOTE, you want to lever this part - UP. Dont put the screwdriver in the top hole and lever down.

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Also note, the latch itself, has 2 screws. These screw have about 6mm of travel in all directions. You also should experiment where this sits. Eventually I god the hood to lock. Job done.
 
Next job, The 4WD is not engaging.

I first noticed that the cabin light was not coming on when I hit the 4wd switch. A bit of research here helped.

- When in 'normal' drive mode. Transfer case is in 2H, 4WD switch is off, hubs are off- The front drive shaft can be moved ( i used a crowbar). this means it is free-run, and not engaged to any gears or wheels.

My problem, was when I engaged 4WD, I expected the front drive shaft to be 'stuck' i.e not move, but this was not the case when I pressed the button or engaged 4L.

After a bit of research the problem could have been anywhere in the VAC or electrical switch issue. I started looking at the VAC part, I tested the 'electrical' in so much, with the car turned off, but 'on', when I pressed the button in the cab I could here 'relays' engaging in the engine bay, so I assumed the electrical was working. I then tested the 'vac'.

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This little blue filter is on the 'input' vac line before the relays. This pipe comes from the manifold, through blue filter to a spliter, then the blue and red relays. I started the car and removed the pipe from the filter, and using your finger you can tell it has a pretty strong 'Vacuum' going on from the manifold. Car does not car this pipe is open when running. However I tested on the 'other' side of this blue filter and their was NONE. I then swapped the 'Filter' around, and I got Vacuum. So it turns out, that filter is a 'diode' for Vacuum. I had it the wrong way around.

I then got in the Cab, and the 4wd light was now engaging. I re-tested under the car.

- When in 'normal' drive mode. Transfer case is in 2L, 4WD switch is off, hubs are off- The front drive shaft was stuck (had a small bit of movement, but then locked in). This means car is in 4WD, and in high gear mode. (but hubs not engaged)

- When in 4WD drive mode. Transfer case is in 4L, 4wd switch can be on or off, but its always 4wd light on- The front drive shaft is stuck, hence means car is in 4WD, but low gear mode. (but hubs not engaged, which you really should)

Problem solved.
 
next job. Mudflaps install

this was basic bolts. M6 and M8.

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I had the metal guide was not connected to the mudflap, pull. This easliy comes outs if you hit something. I reconnected with 2 x M6 and large washers. The top screw bolts into a plastic M6 plug into a square hole in the metal. (on the others I did away with the plug and just used washers). The mid-level bolt you see is M8 and goes into a metal clip that is on the hole in the fender. Their is one more 'm6' which on the outside which goes into the fender with a plug. (NOTE. if your plug is out, you can use a nut, BUT you need cant reach it, once fender is installed, so you will need to put mudflap onto fender before fender to car). also , for me the rear-mudflap has 'landcruiser' written on it, but the fronts ones do not. also the 'Rear' fenders have a slot in the fender for the LIP under the metal. The front fenders dont have the LIP, and hence no 'slot'.

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Also the front fenders, also had the metal extension things missing on both, so I had no idea what it looked like. Also, its about half the length of the rear ones.

I got some aluminium angle, and easily fabbed up the bracket. I only used one-screw into the fender instead of the two holes available, but it should be good enough. This easily worked and has the added benefit of never rusting.

Fenders and mudflaps done.

A small job was to install the centre light.

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Not that it needs to be removed when the trim goes in, but it only works properly when you ground it on the frame. When I did this, I discovered the rear-drivers door was not pressing on the door eneough (hence light was staying on, but if I pushed the door, it would go off). A bit of fiddling I realised that I did'nt have the rubber cover on the rear door light switch on that side. The rubber gives you an extra 2mm extension on the push-rod inside the switch that means it now works properly. Dont wast time troubleshooting this if you dont have the rubber grommet on the switch.
 
Also tidied up the dashcam.

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I had too much free cable, but I had plenty of room to tuck it away under the section. I experimented with mounting and I think I will fab up something that is screwed in, instead of the supplied 3M stick pad.

Also put in the 'singlestrut' for the bonnet.


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this is a gas strut that means you dont need the bonnet stick thingy to keep the bonnet open. i got it from a place called 'singlestrut', but I think they dont make the 60 series one anymore.

Anyway, I planned to use this on the other truck but A) I lost a bonnet spring. B) lost all the grommets for the 'stick'. so I guess its going it.

and it works perfectly. Take no effort to raise-lower the hood and it sticks open really easily. Everyone should get one of these. JUST remember, it takes some space to fold down (I could'nt install it on the other side as I bolted midi-fuses in.

The major job for the day has no pics. (maybe later).

I put the rear quarter windows in. I needed help for this one. But I few tips.

- I got some new 'non-slide' POV pack windows. The sliding ones are more trouble and another place for a theif to get in and I think look worse.
- Followed instructions here, basically the rubber has a 'slit' which needs to fit over the lip in the window frame.
- Got a rope, put it all-round the window, with soapy water.
- Got a vacuum lift thing from Amazon. I actually used bungee cords and using this, held the window in place on the car tied to the top gutter. Means that tha twindow wont fall to the ground if something goes wrong.
- pushed window in from the outside, while simultaneously pulling the cord from the inside.
- Basically worked, but had a 'last' section on both windows that I had to basically use the trim-remove levers to figure it out. The window 'pushes' in to the frame when it all works and locks into place.

NOTE: the sliding window seems to use a different method. not sure what it is. I did'nt use any glue at all for this, but it seems very solid.

NOW the car is rain-proof. Not that I plan on testing it.
 

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