Builds Barons white FJ62 log (1 Viewer)

[Baron]

Part of the electrical is to have cables around the Cab. I managed to run a thick twick core, 6mm cable from the passenger footwell, up the A piller, through the roof, and down into where the rear washer bottle is. You have two square cutouts, I pushed the cable up from the A piller, and pulled it out at each cut-out, looped in and pushed it through the next part. The thick cable threaded easily. I then, taped the trailer (7core) to it, as well as a guide-wire rope and pulled that through as well, now I have power front to back.

I also wanted cables left-right in teh dash as well as in the middle. I decidedd to make my own loom. Layed it out on the floor and using loom tape put it together. This worked very well.

I layed in on top of the main loom, you have a bit of space. I'll likely zip-tie it in. Its a bit overkill, but I hate random wires. I also figured out in each footwell, their is a small space (where the relays are on the passenger side). I think thats where I'll put the cabling terminators.

 

[Baron]

I pulled the dash out (meta part, not top) and found paint was not the best. I did some research here a while ago (was how to paint center console) and got a tip on this SEM paint.

You can see the 'old'

After a clean and 2 coats of the adhesive stuff, I sprayed 3 light coats of the paint (I tested it first on an underside).

Cracking results! looks exactly like the original colour.

Even did the grab handle. Highly recommend.

 

[Baron]

Also did the top dash in the same paint. Looks good, but I hope it lasts.

the rear of this had some surface rust which was easily treated with Brunos

Next tip, the window demister air-guide, needs to go in much earlier in the process. Its jammed behind the vertical braces, and above the AC unit. I had to remove all of this to get it to fit in. Once you have some space it went in easy.

Next tip, This little air guide.

Also needs to go in early. It connects to the levers, and has a baffle inside it. The issue was with the Dash metal part on, you cant get the angle to have it slot into the AC unit.

Another Tip.

This lever, fits both ways, BUT only works one. You dont know its wrong till you attempt to connect the baffle from the above air guide. Lucky I have room to get in any more it.

Last TIP. The Air Controls seem to go behind the air-units. which looked like a bit mistake. Actually it was not impossible.

- LONG BLACK PASSENGER CABLE: Goes over the heater unit, down the back to the AIR Blower controls and sets the external/recirc controls
- SHORT BLACK DRIVERS CABLE: Goes straight down to the mess of levers on the AC unit.
- MEDIUM BLACK PASSENGER CABLE: Goes down front of the AC unit, under it to the baffle at the bottom.
- BLUE CABLE. Fits between the Gap on top of the AC unit to the small hole in the firewall, into the engine back to the heater tap control. This was potentially the major issue, but I was able to reach throught the Gap and push it through? RECOMMEND, put this in, when you install the AC unit, before the wire harness.
Its difficult but not impossible to press the control cables into the bracket. make sure your move the controls to learn the rang of cables and hence whrer you neext ro crimp them into the brackets.

also replaces all foam inserts on air pipes. and used silicon grease on ac controls. smooth as silk now.

LAST TIP, You can install the Speedo Cable at this point. Its a bit tricky, but it goes from under car, through hole, UNDER the AC unit, up through the gaps to the speedo-level. Again, would be easier to install it BEFORE the AC unit.



Today was the first full day ever . , and made some good progress. Spent lots of time watching my dismantle videos and pics to figure things out. Made a few mistakes! Must have removed the metal part 3-4 times. Ran some more power through the firewall holes as well, so they are all complete. More to come.

 

[Baron]

So another full day. Spent mostly on the Dash. Also did choke, bonnet opener, fuel opener, hand-throttle, handbrake and other smaller things. No real tips today as everything went smoothly. (A tip is more when I mess up, so you don't have too). Cleaned up dash, but did'nt paint the main facia! i still might as it has some small blemishes, but I to be very carefull and Mask most of it.

Spent a fair bit of time searching for screws. My labelling was a bit messy. I guess when I put them in boxes I wish I did them more based on 'area'. i.e. left dash area, etc. Plenty of screws were also in poor condition, so a wirewheel and paint were needed.

I also removed all PO wires and at the moment its stock. I wont screw the dash yet, as the room is usefull as I do want to do my custom wireing etc.

These are some more general pics just on the progress.

 

[Baron]

My Screw Collection: 6 parts boxes for the entire truck. With notes written on bit of paper.

The big box on the floor are the new bolts. Basically I bought a selection of flange bolts in M8, M10, M12 in various lengths. For this dash step I'm running out of short bolts, M6, M8, so might need some more. At the end I'll be able to give an idea how many I used. I'm mostly replacing bolts as I go. Seems to be working so far. I avoided buying the 'box set' and instead just got these in bulk! They were actually a lot cheaper and I know exactly the spec's of them.

I wish I could buy screws in this style. But I haven't found anywhere that does the black ones, and their is about 6-10 different sizes and styles I'm coming across.

 

[Baron]

Wont take much of a guess to figure out what happened here. involved stupidity and lots of kicking myself:

 

[Baron]

Cleaning the running board plastic inserts. Started on left, then 320grit and a clean, then the adhesive promotor and SEM charcoal paint I've been using. came up a treat.

Manual gears going back together, after the previous hickup digging the plastic insert from the gears.
Cover is simple black VHT paint, metal bracked in the mica paint, which is the same for headlight inserts (did this more to see what it looks like).

Also discovered that the Fuel-Tanks brackets need to go on before the tank is put in place, but thanksfully, its possible to put them in from the side, and put the rubber inserts in as well. Also the Brackets are specific to left and right side! They wont screw in if you don't get it right. Also figures I should have connected breather pipes before the cab went on, but I think I can still get it done.

 

[Chris1989landy]

hey man great work, dash and kick boards came up great, can you share what paint codes you used

 

[Baron]

hey man great work, dash and kick boards came up great, can you share what paint codes you used

Found it on here somewhere, but to save you effort. 15303 GRAPHITE Dark Grey SEM Colourcoat Vinyl Aerosol. Brand is SEM.

Its expensive in Australia, only one place has it. I've gone through 1 and a bit cans so far, likely 2 by the end of it all. I also got a black-satin for some other bits, and I'm also using a Adhesive Promotor, which I found was mandatory.

 

[Baron]

Few things done today. Did the Rear lights. The plastic was a bit 'yellow' and the rubber covered in red-dirt. I removed the bulbs, masked the insides and outside of the light fixture, and hit it with Aluminium colour plastic paint. Came up well. Cleaned the rubber and even hit it with the SEM black paint. The lens's are newish. Also found the perfect fir stainless screws.

Updated PIC:

 

[Baron]

Fitted the Fuel breather hoses. The old ones were stiff/dead. so replaced them all. The pipes are three sizes (I'll show two and the missing one is 6.5mm). You need 2M of the small one, and prob only 1m each of the others. had a missing pipe, but @cruisermatt Saved me. I got simple hose spring clamps from Amazon as a mixed box. The small ones are 12mm clamps and I've gone through 20 already and had to get more. PS: Its hard to fit the pipes after joining chassis and cab, not impossible. For future, measure the pipes, cut and fit the the fuel-tanks ends before you join it all together.

The big fuel-pipe is 2" extra-hard fuel filler pipe. This is a special type of pipe (called fuel filler pipe), and found some options. Its on order.

PS: The white pipe was replaced, just forgot to take a photo. PS: You can see the body mount rubber. I hit the large washers with the aluminium paint and came up great. to buy all these mounts/stack etc brand new, is hundreds $$.

 

[Baron]

Fuel pipes used.

The 12.5mm is a tight fit, but I think its correct. Missing is 6.5mm.

 

[Baron]

Lesson 6, in what to think about when swapping bodies (going from Automatic to Manual). The Body is from an Automatic, but I need to to be Manual. Obviously no parts for Clutch. However I'm findiing small bits all the time.

In this pic, in the bottom-right is a small extended mount, welded on to the body. This is a 'lock' for the clutch hard-to-softline part. On the new body, I dont have it. And I did'nt really want to start welding again.

i found a solution. I had a 'spare' Brake 'lock', from Front of the car, which does the hard-soft lock for the centre brake hose.

Only the Front is this shape (rear is slightly different). It was one of the parts I experimented electroplating.

This mounted in the exact same spot and the welded mount. I drilled an 8mm hole and a 6mm hole( for the position-peg). This came through under the firewall-shield, so you cant see it. In the end it was a perfect solution. (but I actually have a stuffed hard-line, so i need to get a newone. Sorry, no pic if the end-results. Maybe later.

 

[Baron]

So I had an issue with the AC idler pully. The screw-slide (the bit that adjusts to tighten) was locked and not moving. This was a very specific Part. And when you buy a new pulley (which is an easy part to find) it does not come with the spline it sits on, which is the part that was stuck. I finally found a place that sold the pulley and spline (sorry, cant find it right now?). They dont sell the bolt, but I ordered a 100mm long, M8 bolt, which fitted perfectly.

Here is the bottom of the bolt.

this is the top. NOTE: This is the 'NUT' end of the bolt, which needs to be free to move (which makes the pulley spline move up and down when you turn the bolt). It has a second 'lock-nut' which goes on top, to stop if turning off. I had the original one to go back on and it all works perfectly.

 

[Chris1989landy]

d

 

[Chris1989landy]

Found it on here somewhere, but to save you effort. 15303 GRAPHITE Dark Grey SEM Colourcoat Vinyl Aerosol. Brand is SEM.

Its expensive in Australia, only one place has it. I've gone through 1 and a bit cans so far, likely 2 by the end of it all. I also got a black-satin for some other bits, and I'm also using a Adhesive Promotor, which I found was mandatory.

Legend! thank you

 

[Baron]

Time for some PICs. Pretty much completed Engine cleaning and fix. Got all the electrical laid. About ready to install the front engine bay, fenders etc, which will let me finish the engine connection.

PS: The cord is run through the roff and pillars, as a guide. Would let me pull more wires through in the future. have a couple of these.

The rear relays etc, I totally forgot how they were connected. Final found a pic online of how they are laid out.

Engine. all ready for next steps. New water-pump, pipes, idle pulley, rest is just cleaned.

I did'nt want to touch the Carb. Learnt a lesson long ago, not to 'fix' too many things, as then it wont start you dont know what it is. However, the Carb is easy to get too. I want to update the vac pipes, etc, but not untill the engine goes again. PS. I forgot where the choke connected too, and took me ages to find a close pic. This shows it.

Last pic. I pulled the oil-filter out. Strangly, after the engine has been sitting for over 6 months, it came off without making a mess at all. Connected some wires. I have an issue with the clutch hardline I need to address.

Hopefully the Next pics are of the fenders on.

 

[Baron]

SO huge Progress last week. Firstly. attached the fenders:

The process was a little difficult. The inner fenders and insides of the outside fenders did not initially lined up. One trick was to get the front radiator panel the correct hight in the saddles. That was mounted first. Then each fender, connect one bolt at top, then bolt, two bolts on the front radiator panel. I did'nt tighten, just left loose. Then you can insert the inner fender, which is a little tricky to get over the suspension, as it also needs to sit outside the 'outer fender'. At first view, none of the inner fender bolts line up. But start under the car, near the door. two bolts for the outside fender, then start to work towards the front doing up bolts (loosly). Then the holes start to align. Then finally, tighten all the bolts.

I'm using longer bolts now, mainly cause I'm running out of short bolts. I purchased about $200 of bolts in bulk, which was great, but the shorter M8, M6 ones went quickly. I dont think this matters.

 

[Baron]

Next step, was to start connecting wiring and bolt on all the add-ones. The biggest issue here was lack of photo's. I had a couple which helped, but you need lots of photo's on every angle. Not every loose wire gets connected, and you can spend ages chasing down these. Also, remove the air-box and take detailed photo's of everyting under it. Also take photo's from under the car. I also har to refer to my original video's from the first few posts, which helped a lot.

As I went, I would clean and paint either Aluminium, Black or clear. All pieces came up great.

These damn fuel pipes are not correct.

These sit under the air-box, and hence any photo's I found did not show what I needed. You have a couple of bolt-on mount brackets. I made one fit, but not the other. I also 'lost' the top of the Steering cover which I'm going to have to find somewhere

You cant quite tell here, but the Clutch booster is on upside down. Their is a carbon cleaner thing with a pipe and I have the vac pipe on the clutch on the engine side, but it was meant to be on the outside. Took an hour to completely remove and turn it up, and re-install. The stupid mistakes you find on the way. Between this, and searching for a socket or screwdriver I had in my hand 3 mins ago wastes hours.


Just one other thing. This is not a quick process. The entire process of getting each bit, figuring it out etc takes time. The above steps was 2 full days work.

 

[Baron]

The two battery trays were rusted out. They are covered in a plastic film cover, and I presume when it gets wets, it all rusts out. New battery trays are $200+, and even 2nds are $100. So I decided to make my own.

$50 of iron (large angle, and medium angle, and thin bar).

This is the result. Fairly simple just cutting and welding. I had the original to get the size correct. Using angle on angle to get the offset holes, it all worked quite well. Primed and then painted in VHT Chassis black.

Test fitted ok. The bolts to the chassis now go backwards, which I think still works. The side-rail I had to use a angle joiner from bunnings. I prob should have just welded this on. The two trays are exactly the same, BUT the side-rails ended up being different. not sure why.

PS: After it was installed I had some trouble with the radiator fitting. It seems the tray was 7mm to wide on the drivers side, and prevented the radiator from going in. I had to cut 7mm from the radiator side, but this was not an issue for the radiator.