Build Barons white FJ62 log

[Baron]

Big progress today. I have power (lights).

What works:
- front lights and high-beam
- One rear blinker (except blinks super fast)

What does not:
- Everything else

I even fried a fusable link. The alternator cables were not connected, and their is a thick white wire I did'nt realisse what it was that was hanging down and when I move something, it grounded and smokes the fusable link (the link that connects to the nut/bolt from the main terminal, is the one that goes through the loom to the alternator. At least now I know. I now need to figure out how to replace it.

I honestly did not spend much time looking at things. I was chuffed just to get lights.

 

[Baron]

Small Tip. Their is a user-service task that you should do occasionally. At the bottom of the air-filter is a small 'rubbish' catch can. I did'nt even know this was a thing. When I went to clean it, it was filled with leaves and dirt etc. Its connected with press-tabs, so I guess you are meant to clean it out once and a while.

 

[Baron]

Update. slowly going through power things to make sure they work. I put in batter properly, and connected it and now many things work. I also put in a Shunt (I had no idea, these go on the negative terminal, not positive). This accurately tells me power usage. I'll get some details. Got all blinkers working, including new side blinkers. Got lights working (Except one light, switches off, when I go to high-beam). Only have one set of rear bulbs, so I ordered lots.. (when you order in 10pak, they are like 80c each). I also went to a wreckers (down wandandian) and picked up some missing bits. (Air pipe under steering wheel). I connected air-filter, just to it all in place.

Strange thing, when I put the air-filter in. I discovered that I had the Clutch booster upside down (the vac pipe was on wrong side). Rookie mistake. I thought it was better to fix then leave. This took a bit of work in the cramped space.


Connected new horns, but not workins (they make a 'thump' sound, so they are getting power. I think the 60 horns are switched differently to modern ones, and I remember reading that a relay is needed). The horns came with a relay, but no instructions, but I should be able to figure it out).

Its getting close to turning the engine over, so next are things like fluids etc.

 

[Baron]

Also from the wreckers was a new clutch hardline. The existing one, it stuck to the softline, and Its all not working well. The new lines had beed sitting outside for years, but a bit of cleaning and pressurised air, cleaned them up. I got two and both are good. I also got a new braided soft clutch line. This has a different double screw, which means I done need the mount pressure click or circlip. This is a much better design.

Took a bit to connect it all but worked ok. I tried to figure out if you needed any special steps to refill a clutch system from scratch. The best way seems to be something called 'reverse bleeding', where you pump fluid from the bottom up to the cup. Got myself a special trigger thingy.

So, I 'cracked' the bleeding valve (Pull this out and have a good look, to see how it works). It really only needs 2 screws out. Connected the pump thing and started pumping. Now normally this needs someup up top to tell you when its full. Instead I got a USB inspection camera from Amazon, which works remotely to an iphone. I set this up, so under the car, I could see the cup.

This all seemed to work, as it filled up and no air-bubbles goin in. I then put the camera under the car to the clutch pin and I could see the clutch pin working.

I guess I wont know till I drive it. The clutch pin does not move too much, but I guess it does not need too.

I then tried the same process with the rear-brakes. This was not as smooth, and it felt like the line was blocked. I then found fluid leaking under the engine, which was traced (I think) to the master cylinder. I figured it was better to replace the master (slave was already new). But when investigating this It seems the masters all have pipe connected on the engine side. BUT mine has some extra bit under the master, and a pipe on each side? No idea what this all is, but I figured a new one will sort it out.

 

[Baron]

Other things done: Fitted windscreen spray pipes. These are ATV fuel pipes, which come in different colours. I ordered red, but looks more like orange. Put the washer bottle in and It seems to work.

Fitted the new Fuel-inlet hose. This is 2" standard pipe. put noise dampener in rear side compartments as well.

Fitted the 2nd Battery, and also Spot lights. I got a original 60 rear-demister switch. This seems to be the style that has a 'lit' switch. The spotlight wiring harness came with a 3 pin switch with light, but I could'nt for the life of me get the rear-demister 3 pin with light to work. The light turns on (with the switch), but the switch will not trigger the lighting relay. Gave up for now.

Also replaces the cig-lighter with a round-style dual-voltage display. will get a pic later. looks great. Attempted to fit the Oricom UHF into the ashtray. I found that the entire ashtray system is all bolt together. I managed to cut the tray mount (which is metal) back, so that the radio now fits within the exact confines of the tray with 6mm spare on each side (this spare is needed to fit through the front of the dash/ashtray bits). A bigger one, wont fit. I still have a bit of work to do, but its working fine for now.

I also fitted the radio and a rear speaker (I'm changing all the speaker plugs with new Narva connectors). It worked first go (also fitted antenna- but not properly). I have a new radio, which I will not fit I've proven the cabling.

 

[cruiserpilot]

- You CANT remove the bell housing while the clutch/flywheel is still inside.

You are the first person I’ve ever seen do this. Removing the bell housing with the transmission attached
is the norm. I can only guess you missed a bolt. I have a 12HT and have removed the transmission/t-case
twice. There is one particular bolt on the left that seems impossible to reach so I carry a 24” extension
just for this one bolt.
Very impressive amount of work and time. I’ve just gone through the whole thread. Will have to delve
into the particular sections again. Recoating the latches and catches was impressive. Lifting an
entire 60 body with an engine hoist would not have occurred to me, not without a couple of beers first,
anyways. Well done.

 

[Baron]

Thanks for the comments.

Moving slowly, tackling wiring things this week.

I originally got a Oricom UHF, very basic, but one that had all the controls in the handset. I figured that you could remove the asktray, and looking at the metal frame that holds the ashtray, I was able to cut it back (cut corners, and back) so that the UFH radio mounted exactly in the ashtray (it had about 8mm of space under it, but two screwpoints so would be easy to fix.

However, radio was faulty, and got a dual channel one, HOWEVER it was about 15mm bigger, so it did'nt fit. With a bit of research, I wanted the handset near drivers, and while I really couldnt find a spot that worked. But then I realised I could 'extend' the mic cable. (with a UHF 2way dash plug- RJ45). However I then found that the handset cable was extra long. so I could really mount the base anywhere in the front of the car.

And I found this place;

This is between the glovebox and the end (just under the air vent). It has access to metal screw points, so I made up a small aluminium brack (just from bunnings, put int a vice and bash up the bends I need).

I put.a blade fuse box in the passenger footwell for extra aux power and it connects easily to it. I'll run the UHF cable to come out under the middle air-vents. And put the handset mount somewhere on the dash (ideally without drilling holes).


The next bit to figure out is the UHF aerial cable! It seems you cant pre-run this, as the cable end on the aerial side does not disconnect. I guess I'm waiting till the bull bar is on.

 

[Baron]

More Fab work to mount the overflow bottle onto the aux battery box. I also found the new battery trays are about 3mm too wide, as with the battery clamps on, they dont screw into the front bar mount, so I'll figure something else out.

The overflow bottle has a special mounting bracket that fits neatly inside the edge of the bottle. Also has two screw mounts. I made up an aluminium bracket to go from the battery clamp to the battery base. This all goes together well.

I also put in a bracket in the existing inner fender wholes, to which I mounted a Victron battery shunt. I'll wire this up later.

I am a little concerned about the number of new bolts going in. I may need to loctite them, as a trip to the cape will surely shake them all loose.

 

[Baron]

More pics later, but I'm installing a Sony AXV1000 head unit. I originally upgraded the 60 series original to a 100 series (exact fit/plugs), but it was dead. I got this new one from a guy. I discovered these things called AERPRO RADIO HARNESSES. You buy a SONY one, which is SONY to ISO standard connectors. Then buy TOYOTA to ISO standard connectors. The ISO's plug into each other and you get SONY to TOYOTA. Wow.

here is back of the unit.

The single DIN rear/Double DIN front fits, but the brackets only use 2 of the 4 screws. I wont know if this is a problem untill the full dash goes in. I connected a speak to the rear connections for sound to test (I have no doors).

The wiring has several extra's.

- reverse camera. I ran the provided RCA cable (with a power tap off at each end). to the rear of the car. Connected the Camera (RCA and Power). Connected the rear camera power lead to AUX, and plugged in the yellow RCA cable and she all works.

- Reverse selector. I cut-in a fly lead onto the rear reverse light (white one) and through the harness I built came back to this input. Now, when I put car into reverse, the reverse camera comes on).

- Power output. I got me a AERPRO AP22 universal power antenna. This fitted into the fender hole easily. It has two cables (and black). RED is permanent power, (permanent, because it needs power to down the aerial after you turn car off). and GReen, which I connect to the Sony power output. This provides a signal for the automatic antenna. NOW I turn ON unit, aerial goes up, turn of. it goes down. I might even wire a bypass switch to put antenna down, when car is on.

Overall, this all works like a new car. 7inch media unit, with Apple Carplay, reverse camera and automatic aerial.

Neat!!!

 

[Baron]

Other works the last few days.

- Brake master cylinder issues. I couldn't reverse bleed cause it was getting stuck at the master cylinder. Ordered a new master cylinder, discovered the pipes are different (two right), but original has one left one right, because I this Brake Proportioning Valve mounted under the master cylinder. I think this might be stopping the bleeding. Pulled it all apart and quite rusty. I then discovered my brake hardlines where all wrong. I'm talking to a guy to replace all of this.

- Redarc BCDC. plenty of room on passenger side on fender for this. Its water proof. DOnt get Victron cheap DCDC. Its so big wont even fit in the glovebox. redarc is a bit larger then two smoke packets.

- Shunt on main battery. I had this originally mounted in the fender hole, but then figured this was the airbox hole. Move it slightly. Not much room to mount stuff on drivers side.

- replaced LSD diff oil with special LSD oil. Easy job. Also replaced plugs. takes a fair bit.

- Drained Oil from engine, very black. Let it sit draining overnight. got 5L exactly out of it. (its meant to hold 9.5L). I only put 5L in as I figure this out.

- Drained gearbox/transmission. Awaiting new oil.

- put the rear wheels on jacks, as I wanted to test handbrake. With car in neutral I could hardly turn the rear wheels (its off the ground, so should be easy). I figured that the ebrake is holding and needs adjusting. This is the little spinner knob you access from back of the drum. This is a pain to access, ended up removing wheel. With drum off, you can see it easily. backed off the adjuster, put it all back and wheels now turn easily and handbrake works. HOWEVER its not adjusted, but I prefer to do this by reversing and banging handbrake on several time.

- went to connect fuel level sender cable in the little screw hole at the top of the fuel tank. Its not there. @*#*@ forgot it... Not an easy fix, but not for today and this bottle of scotch.

- New Horns, old airhorns hardly worked. However all new horns need positive and negative. The FJ62's are negativly triggered, so you need some magic with a regular bosch relay. found some instructions and got one to work. Awaiting new relay for other one. You can run them both off one relay, but then you need wiring from one horn of the other.

- Put in new spot light wiring. Starting to get messy.

- someone said front centre brake lines were longer then rear. With the new lift, the rear brake line is tight, so I ordered a new front one and its NOT longer. Back to drawing board (google).

- fix flashers. I had emergency flash working but not left/right. Fount that both these switches actually use different circuits/fuses? found I missed a fuse in the fuse box.

- Filled up radiator with demineralised water. Someone said fill from heater hose because its high. Its not, the top radiator hose is highest. I filled from this first, but the bypass hose slows filling. Stuck a funnel in the radiator fill point and used that. Lots of strange sounds when filling, but it eventually worked. immediately found some pipe clamps that were not tight. haven't burped it etc, need to run the engine first. Worried its already rusting. It had some green coolant in it and I added some, but the water is not circulating at all.

- Filled powersteering. did'nt find any real instructions for this. does'nt take much to fill it, but I guess when I turn the engine, it will take some more.

- Found a missing fuel breather pipe under rear drivers side of the car. Tracked it back to the black charcoal canister on the passenger side. I think this is an issue of diesel cab on a petrol chassis, as I'm missing a pipe for the breather. I think I know where it needs to go, but more research needed.

Next weekend, should be able to start it. researching what I need to start a car for the first time.

 

[Baron]

IT RUNS!!!!!

 

[Baron]

 

[Baron]

So Starting it was a bit of a process. Put a bit of fuel in the tank, but not intending to start it. Connected starter and turned the engine over. This worked. I was expecting the oil-presure to rise, it did not. Anyway. Got more prepared to start it properly. (fire extinguisher, water, tools, clean floor etc). Put a bit of fuel (about a teaspoon) into the slanted spout (per someones advice). Attempting to see fuel in the carb viewing window, but its just dark and dirty. Anyway. No START, chirp or anything.

Put some starter fluid into the Carb, and now I get a short firing. (I presume this proves the electrics are working fine.). i cracked the fuel pipe on the fuel pump and no fuel. I then attempted to 'suck' fuel down. And Zero chance of this, seemed blocked. Removed fuel filter and it had some fuel in it, but on further inspection this was just old fuel. I was easily able to suck through the fuel filter, so it was not the problem.

got under the car, and tried to suck from the fuel breather tube. Its also completely blocked. This is strange as when I had the tank out, I cleaned the filter etc, so this should not be a problem. I decided to bypass the fuel tank and connected two spare fuel lines to the pickup and into a jerry can. Now I was getting 'fuel' at the fuel pump input.

Tried to start, still no go.

I cracked the fuel-inlet into the Carb, and it was dry. I have a oil-sucker thing, and I connected to this pipe, and was able to suck fuel now from the fuel pump outlet, but still no start. I just figured that nothing is really primed. So I got a stronger flashlight on the carb window and put more fuel in the slanted pipe (I'm using a small plastic sauce bottle for this). now i put in like a table-spoon, and now I was seeing fuel inside the window! And now I continued to fill it, up to half way (about 4-5 teaspoons)

Bit of started fluid, and started the car (choke out). She fired up and over revved (3000rpm). turned it off.

I figured the accelerator cable was too tight, so loosened it at the cable adjustment screw, it was tight to the finger, and when loosened has some slight give now.

Started the car again, and it started, coughed and splutter, bit bit more accel, and then smoothed out at 2K. I felt the normal 'choke' cough (that signal to push the choke in a bit, and then all the way in and now its idling at 1000RPM). YAY... Oil Pressure at half, volts, at 14.2V. all good.

got the torch out and searched for leaks.

- Fuel leak at Carb inlet. Easy fix.
- Checked and topped up water.
- top radiator hose leak, just tightened.
- Oil Level good.
- Lots of sucking noises but the top of carb, but prob cause I have no air-filter.
- Lots of SMOKE from the headers. Looks like its a exhaust leak, but I think its just the heat burning off crud/oil etc. It eventually calmed down, but still smooky.
- Tried Cab heater. it was starting to get hot.
- Viscous coupling working, fan speeding up.
- Radiator getting hot. New leak at a heater hose. Tightened ok.
- Tried to move steering slightly. Works. PowerSteering level unchanged.
- Powersteering belt is very loose, but I'm at the end of my tightening travel. I think this is just a cheap belt. will get a new one.

Ran for prob 10mins, not really trying to rev it. Turned off. checked ore things, and it wont start right now, but I think because I ran out of fuel in the jerry can (cause I put most of it in the fuel tank). Stopping now, cause I'm calling that a success.

Beer time.

 

[Baron]

Still Sober. Fixed the fuel-tank issue. undid the rear straps trying to see how to pull it out. It was not going to be an easy job. Then I say the air-compressor next to me, so I thought I'd try a little bit of that. it cleared out both intake and breather. Removed Jerry can, did the 'suck' trip at the Carb intake. Tried to start, no luck. Primed the Carb, started first time and Ran great. Also had no more leaks.

Took a bit to redo the tank straps, and also fixed the 'spare' breather pipe by running a soft pipe, to replace the missing/incorrect hard pipe. This is only a return from a carbon canister.

I also bought a Narva mini Battery switch. I'm using a redarc BCDC 1225D bolted onto the Fender. Its fused in and out, but I had an exposed Terminal. I then realised occasionally you would want to disable the Redarc so the mini switch, is round and strangely fitted exactly in one of the round holes in the fender. This also let me remove the terminal and tidied up it really well.

 

[Baron]

So a bit of a public service. The original FJ62, had power issues. The battery would drain easily. PO had alarms and stuff in the wiring etc. When it was all broken down, I removed all extra wiring, and piggy-backs and cleaned up the entire lomb. I then installed a Shunt on the Main battery and wanted to document the power draw. This is results.

Car OFF, Clock disconnected and Radio unplugged. about 20-22milliamps. This is the raw power draw, and what would drain the car over time.

Removed ALL fuses. No Change.

Turned car to ACC. still 20ma. started plugging in fuses, from top row. no change till i hut cigg lighter. (USB plug now). went up to 43ma

 

[Baron]

connected radio and clock. radio is turned on. went up to 900, but floated down to 650.

Car switched ON but not started
jumped to above 6amp

This to me seems high. I also learnt that the coil is very HOT.

Lesson is 'dont leave car ON if you want the battery alive'.


This is the Car started.

Levels out to about 20amps, 14.2V. The alternator is charging the Battery, and the Shunt records this (and give a little animation on the screen). The shunt is just a basic from Amazon.

Not sure what I learnt from all this. I don't think 20ma is going to drain the battery over a short period. I guess I'll find out. At least I have a baseline now. Also remember, car is still mostly stripped at this stage. No doors/hatch, but all relays and engine bay plugs are connected.

 

[Baron]

After a break traveling for work, back on the tools today. I've done some little things along the way. Ran power and cabling for a DashCam. Using the Cord pull throughs I put through the first day doing wiring made it easy. Powered it up and worked great. I think the Dashcam rear-view camera will do on the hatch and the Reversing Camera will mount on the number plate somehow. Its so easy to get lots or forget things. I have a gmail notes page that I track what I needed to do and where I got stuck (and had to order stuff).

Today, I wanted to move on from wiring, as it was getting me down a bit, so I decided to focus on the rear of the car.

Firstly, I put the Car-builders noise dampening down. I'm still not doing every metal bit as I did read you only need 40% coverage, and I left the original noise dampening in. A quick bash with a screwdriver quickly tells you where you need to put it. Anything Echo-ey/Resounding got a bit.

 

[Baron]

Next was the rear hatch. This still had paint masking on it and was completely dismantelled. After a 30min search to find the parts, I soon realised this was going to be a battle remembering where it went.

My main issue was the wiring was Cut by the PO to replace the hatch. I was expecting a nightmare in trying to splice cables in. I discovered when I undid the cable holders(those little metal straps that held cable down), I could pull the cable through quite a bit (all the way out if you wanted). I also found I could stick a thick cable down through the top hole and its natural angle, would poke through at the bottom. Nice.

The cables on one wide is 4 wires from bottom and one from top (rear demister). On the other side is 2 wires and the water pipe for the sprayer. Strangly, the water pipe is on the wrong side. The water pouch is on the passenger side, but the hole to the hatch is on the drivers side, so it goes around a bit.

Instead of splicing 5 new wires, I actually used a 7 core Trailer wire, so at least it was all neat and contains. I used crimp joiners to join the 5 cables, and I wrapped these in loomb tape and could push them into the side cavity so it was all neat. On the other side I just used twin core, but the water pipe was also cut, and I ended up buying new pipe (3.2mm Vacuum pipe), as normal washer pipe was too soft. The OEM was actually very tough, and likely stopped it being crushed. Again it was easy to run a guild wire (trailer 7 core), to get through the side cavity, then put the new cable/pipe through and them remove the guide. This all worked well.

 

[Baron]

Next I started to clean up and test the hardware. I had trouble with the rear wiper motor. When I apply power to it, it would not move? but I was never sure if it should as its got 3 wires and also driven by a relay. Thinking it was faulty i dismanteled it. its quite a complex unit and all very stiff (you could hardly move it with the motor removed. The grease the end end-nib was all dry, so I replaced that, and I tried to see if it was seized but it did not seem to be. I then put it back together and for the life of me, could'nt get the screws to secure the motor back on. One would go on, but the other would not line up. I then remembered I had another hatch under the house. Turns out it was fully together, except for the lock thingy removed. I decided to use its wiper motor. I also found intact wire loomb rubber, which was a big tick. And finally, the locking mechanism was all together, so now I had something to follow to re-assemble everything. This all worked fine! Cleaned up everything, bit of paint/clear and it came up good.

The only hickup was I never painted (in 2K) the inserts on the hatch/tailgate, so I prepped and primed them for painting, but the stupid primer was an 8 hour dry type of thing, so i'll finish tmrw.

Overall its taken most of the day to put all this back together.

You can see I left the lock in, when I painted it. Did'nt want to, but damned if I could figure out how to remove it.

I also ran an extra cable into the space. This is going to be a Aux Power, and I will install a light on the rear hatch, with a switch in it as well. The switch will go into the screw panels, and another power cable goes back to the top through the small hole for the demister, and likely power a LED Strip light. I stupidly driller a hole too large for the switch, so now I'll also put in a USB Charger port as well. Pics later when its all put together.

Tmrw I'll do the tailgate.

 

[Baron]

Today was spent still on the rear of the FJ62. Started putting the Tray back together. Discovered that I missed a lot of things Elctroplating, so I got that system up and going again. the Lock mechanism's look difficult to plate, but strangely the work well. Each component cleans up really well and all the flat parts come out well. The complex components not so, but these are normally hidden. unfortunately I also put too much current in the system and burnt all the anodes out, so I'll need to get some new ones.

I had to spend a heap of time on the number plate lights. This was in poor condition and had to re-wire it. I also wanted to install a reverse camera, so I wanted the cabling hidden through this mechanism. I had to enlargen the hole for the cables to run through, but this was hidden.

I also cleaned up the latch (which is chrome) and that even came up well.

The last bit was to connect the hatch and tray back to the car. This was tricky and needed help to hold it while I screwed in the bolts. i also put the all on the wrong sides, which was quickly obvious. in the end it went together.

Thats Masking still on the window I need to take off. I still need to do some tuning as it has some movement.

All the plated bits looking good.

Also picked up some gold paint, which holds well and looks great, but i cant see it lasting. These are easy bits to redo later.



Also done was the headlight surrounds. Turns out the order to do these is;

- Screw in side lenses (white ones).
- Screw in Headlight Surround
- Screw in large orange blinker under it.


Do it any other way and you will redo it (ask me how many times I figured this out). All this took the weekend. Surprise at how tricky this all was. Stuff thats left. 1) all 4 doors and bonnet 2) interior seats and carpet 3) put dash back. 4. Front Bumpers and emblems. 5. fix brakes and test. Getting close now!!