Builds 79 Aussie BJ55 build (1 Viewer)

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Nice. I actually tried 70 series mounts first. The engine was going to be too high without a lot of modification to those mounts so I switched to the 60 series.

70 series front frame section is only 1/2" wider than the 55 but the 70 frame is somewhat flat front to back where the 55 has a higher arch over the axle.

Glad you got it to work. I had one of those engines a few years ago. Wish I could have kept it for this.
 
Might consider getting the transfer case housing on there to see what the body clearance is like. . You could always make clearance for it after, but I was able to get it where I wanted it without modifying the tunnel. I had to make the correct holes in the blank trans tunnel I had (mine was column shift)
 
Nice. I actually tried 70 series mounts first. The engine was going to be too high without a lot of modification to those mounts so I switched to the 60 series.

70 series front frame section is only 1/2" wider than the 55 but the 70 frame is somewhat flat front to back where the 55 has a higher arch over the axle.

Glad you got it to work. I had one of those engines a few years ago. Wish I could have kept it for this.

I think I'll have a play and see what I can do to drop these mounts down as they do sit higher, while its still under the bonnet line i need to throw a fan on and see how it fits with the radiator shroud, etc.

Might consider getting the transfer case housing on there to see what the body clearance is like. . You could always make clearance for it after, but I was able to get it where I wanted it without modifying the tunnel. I had to make the correct holes in the blank trans tunnel I had (mine was column shift)

Also on the cards, I didn't get a chance to get the front of the transfer case bolted up but will definitely do it before permanently mounting everything up.
 
Clearance issues are going to be on the back half of the tcase.
oh really?! I thought the front of the case is the same overall total width that the back is...

either way slapping on the outer case without internals isnt a big ask.. cheers for pointing that out though!
 
oh really?! I thought the front of the case is the same overall total width that the back is...

either way slapping on the outer case without internals isnt a big ask.. cheers for pointing that out though!

It is basically, but the reinforcing ribs stick out a bit and the tunnel closes in on you the farther back you go. There is a support under the floor near the back of the tunnel.

Use the radiator as a guide for the front as you mentioned, and rough alignment with the rear pinion flange in the back. If you get the fan parallel with the radiator, your rear pinion angle is probably going to be right on with the tcase output.

If the fan is way off center you have options for smaller diameter fans from various B models. That helps with your shroud, but reduces cooling. You could go with an electric fan though.
 
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Looks nice, but you have a few pics of the engine with a level showing level left to right as well as front to back in a level position. Its pretty common for the engine to about 5 degrees low toward the back (thats how my 3B is situated) .

Is your frame also level as you are mocking it up for final fitment ?
 
Looks nice, but you have a few pics of the engine with a level showing level left to right as well as front to back in a level position. Its pretty common for the engine to about 5 degrees low toward the back (thats how my 3B is situated) .

Is your frame also level as you are mocking it up for final fitment ?
Level wasnt level when i took the photo front to back (it was riding the ridge on the rocker cover) . Also dropped the gearbox crossmember about 10mm to use factory mounts (they hang that low).. to be honest i havent checked the level of the truck but the floor is flat. I should get adequate angle front to back hopefully...
 
Looks good. On mine the main body mount support on the frame would interfere with that cross member mount on the outside of the frame. The inside is clear though.
 
Looks good. On mine the main body mount support on the frame would interfere with that cross member mount on the outside of the frame. The inside is clear though.
I can see how it would. I have removed the front body mounts under the footwells as they are now BJ7x body mounts further forward.

The above are welded to the original chassis which i was going to bolt to the 55 frame rails but they are only about 2mm still and not boxed at all. I was considering replacing the existing steel with 5mm plate and add a cap so it hangs over the frame rail. Still secured to the 55 chassis with crush tubes, and 2 x m16 hardware. More work but i'd feel more comfortable with more meat being bolted to the chassis.

We have strict rules here relating to welding to the chassis whic his why i'm going down the bolts with crush tube route.
 
Got pics of that body mount mod?
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You can see a bit of a ridge on the outside of the chassis rail, this is the back of the original body mount still to be ground off.

This shows how close the body mount is to the rear of the front spring hanger:
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Crossmember mounts welded up to 5mm plate with m16 bolts and crush tubes. Need to have the gearbox out to do the rear bolts.

Needed to move the pig to get a wheel off to do the engine mounts.

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