jesus888
SILVER Star
Tire size? Sorry if you’ve shared that…
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (57 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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85roktoy
SILVER Star
33x10.50R15
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
What does a decent paint job cost??
85roktoy
SILVER Star
How about a shot of the whole rig?
Continued the saga of pulling to the left when braking.
Replaced the right front wheel cylinders. The rearward cylinder wasn't actuating, so that looked like the culprit.
Took it for the test down the block. First stop, much better. But after that the pull to the left is still present, but much reduced. But beyond what I would want.
Thankfully this is an interim fix to get back on the road. I'm getting on Classic Cruiser's schedule for a front disc swap.
Edit: came home to find brake fluid on the tire. From the amount of fluid left in the reservoir, it might have been a not fully seated hard-line to a cylinder. Tightened/checked tightneas of the hard-line connections and the bleed screws. Topped off the reservoir a d hoping that was it
Replaced the right front wheel cylinders. The rearward cylinder wasn't actuating, so that looked like the culprit.
Took it for the test down the block. First stop, much better. But after that the pull to the left is still present, but much reduced. But beyond what I would want.
Thankfully this is an interim fix to get back on the road. I'm getting on Classic Cruiser's schedule for a front disc swap.
Edit: came home to find brake fluid on the tire. From the amount of fluid left in the reservoir, it might have been a not fully seated hard-line to a cylinder. Tightened/checked tightneas of the hard-line connections and the bleed screws. Topped off the reservoir a d hoping that was it
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MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
Wife and I went to Mission Impossible...no spoilers, but there's a scene with two vintage Land Cruisers...and the bad guys drive Jeeps. 
Got inspired by a previous post that I can’t find now about sound deadening, so today I did Wilbur’s cargo bay. Will start on the hood tomorrow. Is there a spray on that would work in the doors?
This is truly a horrible job. I am starting to reflect on my choice of sand blasting this myself.
With that said, I recalled an episode @BenjaminCA where he used a drill and a long round stock to make a channel sweep. I got some nylon round brushes from Amazon and welded it on an 6’ length of round stock and went to town on the inner frame. Worked well on the areas where there wasn’t any DIY frame coating from PO. I got a long screw driver and removed the chunky stuff.
For the sand blaster, I’ve done all the mods and I am using coal slag or black sand from Menards. The blaster is temperamental, but it works.
With that said, I recalled an episode @BenjaminCA where he used a drill and a long round stock to make a channel sweep. I got some nylon round brushes from Amazon and welded it on an 6’ length of round stock and went to town on the inner frame. Worked well on the areas where there wasn’t any DIY frame coating from PO. I got a long screw driver and removed the chunky stuff.
For the sand blaster, I’ve done all the mods and I am using coal slag or black sand from Menards. The blaster is temperamental, but it works.
Michael B
SILVER Star
Keeping moisture out of your airlines will greatly improve the temperament of the sandblast pot.
In Houston, Tx I paid $3500.00. The seller sold me the FJ40 on primer and absolutely no rust or body work to be done!
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
Several decades ago I was going to rent a sand blaster pot. I had sandblasted in the past, it sucks without the right hood and equipment. The guy at the rental place talked me into renting the baddest ass pressure washer they had instead. When you pulled the trigger it set you back. When I plugged in the "0" degree nozzle it bored a hole in a 4x4 post. It wasn't 100% perfect, but it was easier and quicker with no sand to recycle and cleanup. I had to hit the frame with a wire brush afterwards to quickly knock off the flash rust after it dried.
What psi are you running? Idk about your setup, but when I 1st used my blast cabinet I put my max pressure thru it, later I found out much less pressure was better.
I recently rigged up an air cooler and water separator between compressor pump and tank, and added a separator after the tank too. I wanted dryer air for painting and my tools.
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I had one of these for the dryer and mis-placed it during the pole barn construction. Bought another and with the original one, used it to drill through the frame channel to knock off any loose scale or mud inside. Just keep adding a 3’ length of rod as you push it through the frame and keep the same spinning direction upon withdrawing… it did a decent job for nylon bristles. If you need a real aggressive treatment, try the chimney sweep version…it’s much stronger and more expensive
Limited-time deal: Holikme 40 Feet Dryer Vent Cleaner Kit, Flexible Lint Brush with Drill Attachment, Extends Up to 40 Feet for Easy Cleaning, Synthetic Brush Head, Use with or Without a Power Drill https://a.co/d/fljD1IY
Limited-time deal: Holikme 40 Feet Dryer Vent Cleaner Kit, Flexible Lint Brush with Drill Attachment, Extends Up to 40 Feet for Easy Cleaning, Synthetic Brush Head, Use with or Without a Power Drill https://a.co/d/fljD1IY
In 2022 I finished my Scout II P/S and the icing on the cake was a rebuilt Saginaw P/S pump. Quiet, very “power” and no noise or leaks.
Fast forward to May 2025… unusual noise was coming from under the hood. It wasn’t screaming… yet… but for how long. I used a turkey baster (huge mess) to suck as much fluid as possible out of the reservoir, then refilled, started the truck, and cycled the steering lock to lock. After repeating the process 6-8 times, the fluid was still the same pink colour… but it seemed to have helped.
The next time I drove it the noise was back. To verify it was the steering pump, I removed the fan:alternator belt. No improvement in sound. Cycled the Air compressor on and off… and the noise was still there. Turn the steering wheel a bit left and right and it was much quieter. But it continued to be very loud.
Unfortunately, rebuilt/new pumps have doubled in price since 2022. The new pump was about $10 USD more. So I forked over $100 and have a new pump to install.
I ordered a new pump for a ‘79 3/4 ton Chevy 4x4. I thought this report that came with the new pump was interesting.
Pressure relief does its job at 1492 PSI, and respectable volumes at high and low rpms. Now I just need to find some time to pull the pump, put the new pump in the housing, install the double pulley, reinstall the pump, and fill and bleed it. It’ll be about as much fun as rebuilding both knuckles.
About that, it’s probably worse because most of it has to be done from under the truck while oil drips down on you.
Fast forward to May 2025… unusual noise was coming from under the hood. It wasn’t screaming… yet… but for how long. I used a turkey baster (huge mess) to suck as much fluid as possible out of the reservoir, then refilled, started the truck, and cycled the steering lock to lock. After repeating the process 6-8 times, the fluid was still the same pink colour… but it seemed to have helped.
The next time I drove it the noise was back. To verify it was the steering pump, I removed the fan:alternator belt. No improvement in sound. Cycled the Air compressor on and off… and the noise was still there. Turn the steering wheel a bit left and right and it was much quieter. But it continued to be very loud.
Unfortunately, rebuilt/new pumps have doubled in price since 2022. The new pump was about $10 USD more. So I forked over $100 and have a new pump to install.
I ordered a new pump for a ‘79 3/4 ton Chevy 4x4. I thought this report that came with the new pump was interesting.
Pressure relief does its job at 1492 PSI, and respectable volumes at high and low rpms. Now I just need to find some time to pull the pump, put the new pump in the housing, install the double pulley, reinstall the pump, and fill and bleed it. It’ll be about as much fun as rebuilding both knuckles.
About that, it’s probably worse because most of it has to be done from under the truck while oil drips down on you.
Bleeding is critical on these systems.
Also leaks can cause air bubbles and air bubbles can cause noise.
Once you're 100% certain that your leaks are fixed lift the front end and turn it lock to lock 10 times.
Let it sit until the bubbles float out.
Do this a few times.
Start the engine and do it again.
Waiting 10 minutes between rounds to let the bubbles float out.
Bubbles when run through a hydraulic pump create cavitation which eventually causes noise.
There's probably a sheet that comes with the pump which gives the bleed procedure. Don't skip it.
Also leaks can cause air bubbles and air bubbles can cause noise.
Once you're 100% certain that your leaks are fixed lift the front end and turn it lock to lock 10 times.
Let it sit until the bubbles float out.
Do this a few times.
Start the engine and do it again.
Waiting 10 minutes between rounds to let the bubbles float out.
Bubbles when run through a hydraulic pump create cavitation which eventually causes noise.
There's probably a sheet that comes with the pump which gives the bleed procedure. Don't skip it.
I'm unsure why I need this, but I always want it...
Something from 1942 ...
The roof moved for the painting.
Season opens a little late ... Happy Memorial Weekend..
Something from 1942 ...
The roof moved for the painting.
Season opens a little late ... Happy Memorial Weekend..
New waterpump, which I got WITH the oilcooler option. I don't run a oilcooler so I used that extra port to shove a watertemp sender into. So now, if it works, I'll have 2 mechanical watertemp gauges, measuring the head and now pump temps, and the stock gauge. Then I put in my new radiator.
I am far from an expert on p/s but I never needed to do any of that on my Saginaw p/s Landcruiser. Box is low and pump is above it...
We saw the film today, very cool!Wife and I went to Mission Impossible...no spoilers, but there's a scene with two vintage Land Cruisers...and the bad guys drive Jeeps.
